new renault 12 owner.
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  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! le frogg 205's Avatar
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    Default new renault 12 owner.

    hi guys i just aquired a 74 renault 12 TS, and it would be great to find out a little about it before i start a minor resto.( i hope ) i am currantly a peugeot guy but im widening my spectrum a little bit. things i need to know are

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    1. popular rust and mould spots.
    2. things that useually go wrong eg. electricals, suspension ect
    3. where i can get parts from...

    cheers

  2. #2
    Simon's Avatar
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    Is this a proper euro spec private import 12TS or an Aussie spec 12TS lite? The July 1974 onwards Australian 12GL sedan was R1177 (Euro 12TS) mechanical spec with a small bore AUS only 1251cc motor until 1975, when all Aussie 12s were R1177 mechanical spec with the full fat 1289cc 12TS motor (until 1976).

    1) Rust can be anywhere, especially if it is a private import. The post-July 1974 Aussie cars are not too bad, but age catches up with all cars, and the following are the main areas:

    - they get nibbled at the rear edges of the front guards. Mud packs behind the plenum chamber drain tubes, then the underseal cracks. The drain tubes can be removed.

    - over the rear wheel arches

    - the spare wheel well

    - the top of the fuel tank and boot floor

    - bottom corners of the front windscreen, if left this spirals into all sorts of hidden rust.

    - bottom corners of the rear doors (the front doors can also go but not as often)

    - double skin above the headlights (visible when the bonnet is open)

    - rear seat footwells, hidden by the bitumen sheet under the carpet from the top, and thick underseal from below

    - front floor, hidden by the bitumen sheet from the top and the thick underseal from below.

    - in what I reckon must be really bad cases, the plenum chamber drains block. Causing water to flow in through the heater fan opening on the RHS, causing other under dashboard rust.

    - in really rare cases the sills can rust, but it is very much the exception rather than normal.

    2) Mechanically not a lot goes wrong with a well maintained and unmolested car. Motor 160-200K km, clutch 100-180K km, driveshafts 160-180K km, the gearbox has an indefinite life with normal fluid changes and level maintenance from checking the leakage rate from the driveshaft oil seals and selector shaft oil seal. Electrics on the Aussie cars are easy to fix and generally reliable Bosch, apart from the Aussie Bosch starter, which is a pain to change. If it requires replacing, just replace it with a Paris Rhone 12 starter, it’ll take 10 minutes to replace, after taking an hour or so to rip out the old Bosch.

    Suspension wise the original Aussie Monroe shocks can be noisy, but if not leaking (which is rare) they last a long time, which is good. The front shocks can be a hassle and shouldn’t really be taken lightly if they are replaced. The front spring is circa 1 metre long uncoiled, and using the wrong tools to replace the front shocks can be dangerous. Fortunately the front springs rarely sag, the rear springs can get saggy if the car has carried heavy loads. Ball joints last well if the dust covers are in good condition, the tie-rod ends also last well, again if the dust covers are in good condition. The rack eye bushes can wear out, as can the rubber universal in the steering column under the dash, giving the impression of free play in the steering wheel. It is a five to ten minute job to replace the steering column joint.

    Brakes are usually long lasting. As with old-skool cars the front discs generally last ages, also good because they are a hassle to replace. Just check for large lips on the edge indicating a lot of wear. The rear drums are usually noisy from inside the car, depending on lining material. The handbrake can be dodgy, just check the bracket holding the lever to the floor is not cracked.

    3) Parts are from the usual sources of French Connection, Caravelle Imports or Dapco. Or Pick-A-Part.
    1963 Renault R4 Van
    1964 Renault R4
    1967 Volkswagen 1300 Deluxe
    1969 Renault 8 Gordini 1300
    2002 Land Rover Defender Td5 130 - ex-CFA Region 4
    2005 Renaultsport Clio 182 Cup

  3. #3
    1000+ Posts jo proffi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by le frogg 205 View Post
    ..... things i need to know are

    1. popular rust and mould spots.
    Interesting word choice.
    All the renault rust I've ever seen has been very unpopular.

    Jo

  4. #4
    Fellow Frogger! le frogg 205's Avatar
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    i agree rust is very unpopular but you get my point ahahahah. thanks for the info guys. the car doesent look too bad the only spot im worried about at the moment is rust that has chewed through both skins of the car just under the fuel cap.

    anything else i should know?
    cheers

  5. #5
    Simon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by le frogg 205 View Post
    the only spot im worried about at the moment is rust that has chewed through both skins of the car just under the fuel cap.
    What sort is it? Sedan or station sedan? under the fuel cap of a sedan it is effectively (because the "cup" containing the rubber tank grommet is spotted to the body) is a single skin.

    Quote Originally Posted by le frogg 205 View Post
    anything else i should know?
    Gee. In six years and five months without a Renault 12, it sounds like I must have forgotten more than I remember about Renault 12s.......
    1963 Renault R4 Van
    1964 Renault R4
    1967 Volkswagen 1300 Deluxe
    1969 Renault 8 Gordini 1300
    2002 Land Rover Defender Td5 130 - ex-CFA Region 4
    2005 Renaultsport Clio 182 Cup

  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger! le frogg 205's Avatar
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    Default

    its a sedan but it appears to have two skins. might just be my eyes ahaha.

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