Spring Compressors
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  1. #1
    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
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    Default Spring Compressors

    While we are on the subject of R8/10 and R8G front suspension, what type of spring compressors do people use to re-install front and rear springs?

    The manuals talk about special tool Sus 20 (which I haven't got). The spring compressors I've got are for mcpherson type struts and seem unsuitable for renault springs.

    Show me your spring compressors and if you made your own, how did you do it etc?

    I've finally got the ball joints from france and I can't get the springs in!

    detail - I took lowered "cut" springs out and previously used a trolley jack to get them back in but in this case, I'm replacing with taller (but not quite std height springs) and have the car up on axle stands with all the springs out and the trolley jack method isn't cutting it.

    Thanks in advance.

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    KB
    KB


  2. #2
    VIP Sponsor 59 Floride's Avatar
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    KB,

    You can use a 'g' cramp to close the front arms up, just hook it up over the cross member and under the suspension arm..same principle as the trolley jack method.

    The same method can be used on the rear...works for me anyway..



    It even works with the car upside down..


    Edit: Forgot to mention the 'g' cramp will need to be of robust industrial quality with a sliding cross handle to get a good purchase on.
    Last edited by 59 Floride; 3rd November 2012 at 09:38 AM.
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  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger! Paul T's Avatar
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    I use a bottle jack under the lower wishbone (underside of ball joint) and jack it up and slide the ball joint shaft into the stub axle. If that is not enough to get the nut on then I place a standard spring compressor (available in pairs from most parts stores for about $25) on the outside of the top and bottom wishbones and take it that bit further so I can get the nut on.

    Paul Tomlinson
    R1135 Gordini 1968.
    Jaguar XJ-C V12 1975.
    Alpine GTA- ATMO 1987.
    Jaguar X Type 2002.
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  4. #4
    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
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    mmmm...food for thought.

    I have G clamps and the spring compressor style Paul mentioned. They don't fit the springs themselves but they might fit the cross-member. My issue is compressing the spring enough to get it into position and to the point where those things will work.

    When I place the spring into the upper locator - there is a small ridge/mound. does the spring go inside of this or does this go inside the spring if that makes sense, the manuals I have don't seem to mention it. I vaguely recall this locator goes inside the spring?
    KB


  5. #5
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by renault8&10 View Post
    While we are on the subject of R8/10 and R8G front suspension, what type of spring compressors do people use to re-install front and rear springs?

    The manuals talk about special tool Sus 20 (which I haven't got). The spring compressors I've got are for mcpherson type struts and seem unsuitable for renault springs.

    Show me your spring compressors and if you made your own, how did you do it etc?

    I've finally got the ball joints from france and I can't get the springs in!

    detail - I took lowered "cut" springs out and previously used a trolley jack to get them back in but in this case, I'm replacing with taller (but not quite std height springs) and have the car up on axle stands with all the springs out and the trolley jack method isn't cutting it.

    Thanks in advance.

    KB
    I've always used a jack under the wishbone for the front, no compressors.

    For the rear, with longer travel, I made up a single spring compressor years ago with a long bolt and screw bush from 4CV front suspension (lower outer joint) and two hooks made out of about 3/16 steel (hacksaw and hammer to shape up). A bit awkward but for occasional use does the job.

    I can photograph it if you like.
    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1950 (R1062)
    Renault R8 1965 (R1130)
    Renault Scenic Series II 2005 (wife's)
    Renault Scenic Series II 2006 (daughter's)
    Renault Scenic Series II 2007 (mine)

    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980 (moved on to new custodian)

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  6. #6
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Here's my crude effort. It more holds the spring compressed that being used to compress it. It is just enough compression to allow me to drop the swing axle and release the spring and internal shock absorber.

    Spring Compressors-spring-compressor-r8-rear.jpg
    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1950 (R1062)
    Renault R8 1965 (R1130)
    Renault Scenic Series II 2005 (wife's)
    Renault Scenic Series II 2006 (daughter's)
    Renault Scenic Series II 2007 (mine)

    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980 (moved on to new custodian)

    National Co-ordinator, Renault 4CV Register of Australia

  7. #7
    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
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    Thanks John,
    I persisted with the trolley jack and got the fronts in. I put a bit of weight on the top of the car to stop the trolley jack lifting the car off the stands so readily and that worked. Although it is so high at the front now I'm starting to think they may be standard springs afterall.

    Now the front is all back together and on the ground, I'm taking a break before tackling the rears. Thanks for the photo and suggestions guys.
    KB


  8. #8
    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
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    Happy to report mine is back together and mobile at least.

    I'll let the suspension settle then do a spanner check.
    Better investigate how I'm going to replace the Koni shocks on the front that thanks to John W I now know to be rears!
    KB


  9. #9
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Spring Compressors-both-konis-mounts-sml.jpgSpring Compressors-front-shocker-mounts.jpg
    Quote Originally Posted by renault8&10 View Post
    Happy to report mine is back together and mobile at least.

    I'll let the suspension settle then do a spanner check.
    Better investigate how I'm going to replace the Koni shocks on the front that thanks to John W I now know to be rears!
    Mine is now assembled with new 1743SP3 Konis and the later type lower mounts that to my complete surprise I found I had in a box.

    One photo shows the mounts (pretty obvious which is which) and the other the old 1401 Koni on the old mount and the new 1743 Koni on the new mount. The old one is still a bit longer, but the new one seems OK to me as fittted.

    Happily, the new 1743 model is available, at a price of course. Top Performance can no doubt help locally.

    Cheers
    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1950 (R1062)
    Renault R8 1965 (R1130)
    Renault Scenic Series II 2005 (wife's)
    Renault Scenic Series II 2006 (daughter's)
    Renault Scenic Series II 2007 (mine)

    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980 (moved on to new custodian)

    National Co-ordinator, Renault 4CV Register of Australia

  10. #10
    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
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    Interesting.
    I've never seen one of those modified mounts, and I only have the normal kind. They do look to be the normal type with the plates spot welded on.

    I do have another set of shocks (non-konis) that came off an R10S I wrecked, os if all else fails I can put them in at least.

    KB
    KB


  11. #11
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by renault8&10 View Post
    Interesting.
    I've never seen one of those modified mounts, and I only have the normal kind. They do look to be the normal type with the plates spot welded on.

    I do have another set of shocks (non-konis) that came off an R10S I wrecked, os if all else fails I can put them in at least.

    KB
    That is exactly what they are, extra plates on a normal one, except that they have two big spot welds each side AND a line of continuous weld along the long joints at the bottom, so are quite strong. I have no recollection of ever seeing them, but there they were in one of my boxes! Exactly the same as what Bob's parts book page scan showed.

    The other thread about the Konis gives lengths. I wonder whether the 10S had the modified mounts or normal ones - the extended length will give you the answer. If it is only about 340 mm you need the modified mounts, if 360 mm + should be OK with the normal ones. I had NO idea about this stuff a week ago.
    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1950 (R1062)
    Renault R8 1965 (R1130)
    Renault Scenic Series II 2005 (wife's)
    Renault Scenic Series II 2006 (daughter's)
    Renault Scenic Series II 2007 (mine)

    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980 (moved on to new custodian)

    National Co-ordinator, Renault 4CV Register of Australia

  12. #12
    Fellow Frogger! Paul T's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnW View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Both Konis and mounts sml.jpg 
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ID:	36120Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Front shocker mounts.jpg 
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ID:	36121

    Mine is now assembled with new 1743SP3 Konis and the later type lower mounts that to my complete surprise I found I had in a box.

    One photo shows the mounts (pretty obvious which is which) and the other the old 1401 Koni on the old mount and the new 1743 Koni on the new mount. The old one is still a bit longer, but the new one seems OK to me as fittted.

    Happily, the new 1743 model is available, at a price of course. Top Performance can no doubt help locally.

    Cheers
    The extended mounts are from an R8G.

    Paul Tomlinson
    R1135 Gordini 1968.
    Jaguar XJ-C V12 1975.
    Alpine GTA- ATMO 1987.
    Jaguar X Type 2002.
    Jaguar XF 2014.

  13. #13
    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
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    I wonder if that means you can put R8G shocks on if you use the modified mounts?
    Thought the G's had shorter springs.
    KB


  14. #14
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by renault8&10 View Post
    I wonder if that means you can put R8G shocks on if you use the modified mounts?
    Thought the G's had shorter springs.
    That is precisely the point of the whole thread! The only Konis available are R8 Gordini and when I fitted them to my "non-Gordini" R8 they were too short for the downward limit of suspension travel, i.e. the position when the car is at its highest position with the suspension fully extended.

    Although the G had shorter springs with the rest unchanged (wishbones, pivot positions, stub axle assembly, that doesn't alter the geometry of the suspension travel at all, so you still need shock absorbers that accomodate the same range of movement. We now know that the G, and some R10s presumably, had slightly shorter shock absorbers and modified lower mounts.

    I now have R8G front shockers on the standard R8, and all is well. It just rests in a slightly higher position within the same range of suspension travel as an R8 G. Or that seems to be the situation.....

    Cheers
    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1950 (R1062)
    Renault R8 1965 (R1130)
    Renault Scenic Series II 2005 (wife's)
    Renault Scenic Series II 2006 (daughter's)
    Renault Scenic Series II 2007 (mine)

    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980 (moved on to new custodian)

    National Co-ordinator, Renault 4CV Register of Australia

  15. #15
    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
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    No, this thread is about compressing springs and getting them back into the car, but I get your point. I wasn't following your thread that closely so didn't pick up that the 1743's were Gordini fronts.
    KB


  16. #16
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    You are quite right and I stand corrected.

    I'm glad it is fairly clear now anyway - quite a saga. At least the extended lower mounts would be pretty easy to make as a modification of the standard ones. I've no memory of ever having seen the extended ones in the flesh until found I had two myself!

    Re jacks and front springs, a bag of cement in the boot helps. And a proper bag, not these wimpy 20 kg ones that save our backs!

    Cheers
    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1950 (R1062)
    Renault R8 1965 (R1130)
    Renault Scenic Series II 2005 (wife's)
    Renault Scenic Series II 2006 (daughter's)
    Renault Scenic Series II 2007 (mine)

    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980 (moved on to new custodian)

    National Co-ordinator, Renault 4CV Register of Australia

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