Gordini Sale done and dusted
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  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! Paul T's Avatar
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    Default Gordini Sale done and dusted

    The Renault and Gordini parts sale was held today and was a success with 11 buyers bidding for parts to keep their cars going and make others live again.
    Thanks for all the support. Hope everyone got what they needed/wanted.

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    The R16 TS didn't sell so anyone who was interested in it please contact the owner- Roger 02)63595096

    Paul Tomlinson
    R1135 Gordini 1968.
    Jaguar XJ-C V12 1975.
    Alpine GTA- ATMO 1987.
    Jaguar X Type 2002.
    Jaguar XF 2014.

  2. #2
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul T View Post
    The Renault and Gordini parts sale was held today and was a success with 11 buyers bidding for parts to keep their cars going and make others live again.
    Thanks for all the support. Hope everyone got what they needed/wanted.

    The R16 TS didn't sell so anyone who was interested in it please contact the owner- Roger 02)63595096
    Congratulations. Top effort - and I'll be "effort" isn't the word!

    I discovered this morning I should have asked whether there were any Koni front shockers there, and what the identification number on them was.....

    The 16TS will have its day I hope. Fabulous cars.
    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1950 (R1062)
    Renault R8 1965 (R1130)
    Renault Scenic Series II 2005 (wife's)
    Renault Scenic Series II 2006 (daughter's)
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    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980 (moved on to new custodian)

    National Co-ordinator, Renault 4CV Register of Australia

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    Hi Paul T,
    Just a note from a disinterested observer. It was good to see that you took such care to try and provide a fair opportunity for everyone to be able to participate. There are some gentlemen left. AF may be the last refuge for them.
    Cheers Jaahn

  4. #4
    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
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    Paul was an excellent host and the day went really well. The phone bidders were well catered to as well as the people on the ground.

    I thought the auctioneer did a great job. He started off a bit too full on with the auctioneers voice but I think he realized he wasn't auctioning cattle anymore and modified his tone. He injected a good amount of humor and made the day flow smoothly.

    There were some bargains to be had, and a few prices that had us non- gordini people wondering what planet some of the guys were on!

    The drive there for me was fantastic. Great scenery and perfect weather. I got a bit too sunburnt, and look like i've suffered a gearbox or clutch failure on the way home so the drive home wasn't as great.

    Thanks to Paul, his family and everyone who helped on the day.
    KB
    KB


  5. #5
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by renault8&10 View Post
    Paul was an excellent host and the day went really well. The phone bidders were well catered to as well as the people on the ground.

    I thought the auctioneer did a great job. He started off a bit too full on with the auctioneers voice but I think he realized he wasn't auctioning cattle anymore and modified his tone. He injected a good amount of humor and made the day flow smoothly.

    There were some bargains to be had, and a few prices that had us non- gordini people wondering what planet some of the guys were on!

    The drive there for me was fantastic. Great scenery and perfect weather. I got a bit too sunburnt, and look like i've suffered a gearbox or clutch failure on the way home so the drive home wasn't as great.

    Thanks to Paul, his family and everyone who helped on the day.
    KB
    There's been a little rash of "post-excitement" failures recently. Mine was a top hose failure on the R8 just after the French Car Day in Perth. I think she was over-excited. I hope yours is, relatively-speaking, trivial - I guess that means I hope it is clutch not gearbox!
    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1950 (R1062)
    Renault R8 1965 (R1130)
    Renault Scenic Series II 2005 (wife's)
    Renault Scenic Series II 2006 (daughter's)
    Renault Scenic Series II 2007 (mine)

    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980 (moved on to new custodian)

    National Co-ordinator, Renault 4CV Register of Australia

  6. #6
    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
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    Here's a couple of Pics from the day:

    Gordini Sale done and dusted-dsc_0002-reduced.jpgGordini Sale done and dusted-dsc_0003-reduced.jpgGordini Sale done and dusted-dsc_0006-reduced.jpgGordini Sale done and dusted-dsc_0012-reduced.jpg
    KB


  7. #7
    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
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    With a little luck, I may have found the cause of my breakdown on the way home from the auction.
    I'll try a new clutch kit and thrust bearing and put it back together. Flywheel looks OK.

    It looks like the pressure plate tabs have failed.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Gordini Sale done and dusted-dscn1702.jpg   Gordini Sale done and dusted-dscn1703.jpg   Gordini Sale done and dusted-dscn1704.jpg   Gordini Sale done and dusted-dscn1706.jpg  
    KB


  8. #8
    Fellow Frogger!
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    G/DAY KB
    looking at the pics am i right in thinking your running a 1300 if so i had a lot of trouble with my R10 spinning the clutch under load and hard driving so i had the flywheel machined almost flat and redrilled it to take a 1.4 clutch made a world of difference and no noticable torque loss but reved out much faster.
    Cheers Peter.

  9. #9
    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
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    No, it's just a std 1108 with the early type clutch.
    I'm hoping a pressure plate and thrust bearing won't be too hard to find. I could reuse the clutch plate at a pinch, but would prefer a whole new kit.
    KB


  10. #10
    1000+ Posts Frans's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by renault8&10 View Post
    No, it's just a std 1108 with the early type clutch.
    KB,

    I might be wrong but as far as I know the old 1108s had a 5 bolt flywheel with the small center hole, and then with the arrival of the bigger cc motors it canged to a 7 bolt with the small center hole. Then later with the 1400s it changed to the 7 bolt big center hole.

    This is what I experienced from the S African models.

    Your car is a beauty.

    Regards
    Frans.
    Old enough to know better
    Young enough to do it anyway.

  11. #11
    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
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    mmmm.

    well, if it was something larger; I rebuilt it with std 1108 pistons and liners 15yrs ago.
    I bought the car in '94 as a non-runner. It had a 688-02 engine tag on it, but I guess previous owners could have changed that easy enough. It also has an R8 head on it - pretty sure of that. There is no provision to mount an alternator.

    re the block. Apart from the tag how else can I identify what the block and crank is?
    KB


  12. #12
    VIP Sponsor 59 Floride's Avatar
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    KB,

    The first pic is an 1100 block, the second is a 1397 block (same as 1298), note the difference in the lump near the camshaft gear just above the oil switch, this is the easiest way to tell the difference. To add confusion I 'think' the 1100 crank will fit the 1289 block (pre 1975) but definately won't fit a 1397 block.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by 59 Floride; 17th December 2012 at 09:21 AM.
    Every day when I wake up I reach up in the darkness with my eyes shut and if I cannot feel anything that resembles a wooden lid I know it will be a good day. No lid today.

  13. #13
    Fellow Frogger! Paul T's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by renault8&10 View Post
    With a little luck, I may have found the cause of my breakdown on the way home from the auction.
    I'll try a new clutch kit and thrust bearing and put it back together. Flywheel looks OK.

    It looks like the pressure plate tabs have failed.
    KB,
    If you take the pressure plate to a clutch specialist or someone like brake Pro they can send it away and recondition it. I had a price for the R8G to recondition the clutch plate, pressure plate and a new Thrust bearing of $300.00. My local brake pro bloke sends them to a company in SA. Might be worth looking into.

    Paul Tomlinson
    R1135 Gordini 1968.
    Jaguar XJ-C V12 1975.
    Alpine GTA- ATMO 1987.
    Jaguar X Type 2002.
    Jaguar XF 2014.

  14. #14
    Fellow Frogger! rubyalpine's Avatar
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    1108 (R8) versus 1298 (R12) engine differences:

    Also note the cast-in alternator mounting holes either side of plug no. 4 on the cylinder head of the R12 engine.

    Henry

  15. #15
    VIP Sponsor 59 Floride's Avatar
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    KB,

    You should be able to use the standard r12 pressure plate and bearing as shown on this snip from the r12 manual.

    The pressure plate you have is for the carbon type bearings.

    I am currently running a 1289 and 330 gearbox and matching R10 bellhousing and have a setup similar to what the picture shows (but obviously with different fork).

    There will be more freeplay between the pressure plate and bearing which isn't a problem because the extra freeplay is taken up when you adjust the clutch cable.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Gordini Sale done and dusted-scan0010.jpg  
    Last edited by 59 Floride; 17th December 2012 at 01:25 PM.
    Every day when I wake up I reach up in the darkness with my eyes shut and if I cannot feel anything that resembles a wooden lid I know it will be a good day. No lid today.

  16. #16
    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
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    59 Floride - Now you tell me!
    After exhausting the main Aus suppliers with no luck (although I'm still waiting on a call back from Dave at french connection when he gets back in), I flashed the plastic to mecaparts and hopefully have a pressure plate and thrust bearing on the way. If Dave has one when he calls, I may well buy it and put it away for next time.

    Ps - based on your photos, mine is definately an 1108 engine despite the number of bolts holding the flywheel on - could it have an R12 crank?

    Ps - the engine tag is not the original from this engine. The original got dissolved when I didn't realise it should have come off prior to hot-tanking the block as part of the rebuild, so this tag came off another engine just to make it look more original.

    cheers
    Kevin
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Gordini Sale done and dusted-dscn1708.jpg  
    KB


  17. #17
    VIP Sponsor 59 Floride's Avatar
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    Yep, I would say you have an 1108 with an early 1289 crank and flywheel.
    Every day when I wake up I reach up in the darkness with my eyes shut and if I cannot feel anything that resembles a wooden lid I know it will be a good day. No lid today.

  18. #18
    Simon's Avatar
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    From 1968, the R8/10 motor was fitted with a seven bolt crank and flywheel with a 160mm clutch. So neither the 170mm early or 180mm late R12 clutch will fit. The earlier R8/10 block for the five and seven bolt cranks are identical. Also, the bore spacing for the earlier R8/10 motors is uneven, whereas the late R8/10 and 12 is evenly spaced (and this change doesn't coincide with the change from the five to seven bolt crank), so you can't just drop a 12 crank into an early R8/10 block.
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  19. #19
    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
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    So does that just mean that more than likely, the engine is out of a 1968ish R10 rather than the original R8 unit?
    But we can't tell which block without measuring the bore spacing?

    The flywheel/clutch is indeed 160mm (I measured it when buying the mecaparts clutch).

    I'm assuming that this also means that when you hear of people using 1.4 pistons and liners and crank in an R8/10 block, that they must be using one of the late R10 blocks

    from the archives:
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Gordini Sale done and dusted-r8-block.jpg   Gordini Sale done and dusted-r8-engine1.jpg   Gordini Sale done and dusted-r8-engine2.jpg  
    KB


  20. #20
    Simon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by renault8&10 View Post
    So does that just mean that more than likely, the engine is out of a 1968ish R10 rather than the original R8 unit?
    Or a later crank placed in an earlier block. Also, if it is a 1965 R8, it should be a green painted block, a concours point lost :-). Does the motor have the number stamped on the block anywhere? Sometimes on the machined face of the block above the timing chain cover.

    Quote Originally Posted by renault8&10 View Post
    But we can't tell which block without measuring the bore spacing?
    See the top pic in the reply by Floride 1959, and note the engine mount bosses below the dizzy and oil filter. If your block is the same, it will have the uneven bore spacing. However, if instead of having a boss under the oil filter, and it has one below the dipstick, it is a later even spacing block. Just for info, the bore spacing of the earlier block is Cylinders 1-2, 83mm, Cylinders 2-3, 87mm, and Cylinders 3-4, 83mm. In the later block the spacing is an even 85mm between bore centres.
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  21. #21
    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
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    It has a number on the block near the top of the timing case. Something along the lines of A10Nxxxxx. Rego papers say A10N739555 with chassis number 3185217.
    Not sure about the boss locations, will have to look tomorrow night and report.

    We've had the talk about block colour before - it is a 1964 model.
    I modelled the colour off the workshop manual cover (Gregory's I think - the white coloured one). The fact it was black before, does that again point to being a later block I wonder?
    KB


  22. #22
    VIP Sponsor 59 Floride's Avatar
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    The 1108 block pictured above was black before I got to it as well..
    Every day when I wake up I reach up in the darkness with my eyes shut and if I cannot feel anything that resembles a wooden lid I know it will be a good day. No lid today.

  23. #23
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    My 1965 R8 1108cc definitely had a green block. I still have the block although buried below too much stuff to move and check the numbers. Floride S should also have green blocks although many were replaced with black as the 956cc engine often developed problems with their blocks. I have a 1963 Floride S R1131 and a 1963 Caravelle R1131 with black blocks and 1108 cc liners instead of green 956cc units, so they must both have been replaced at some stage. Probably with short motors as the add on stuff is still green.

  24. #24
    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
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    Alright -
    Simon, tell me the paint code for the green colour used and I'll repaint it whilst it's out.

    What colour should the peripherals be - ie generator, dipstick; any brackets etc that should also be green?
    What about the sump?

    Has anyone got a pic of a standard motor the right colour?
    KB


  25. #25
    My Supermodel 63-1092's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by renault8&10 View Post
    Has anyone got a pic of a standard motor the right colour?
    In black & white
    John
    Александър Кристоф Шанел

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