using synth oil in my old rattler
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  1. #1
    1000+ Posts jo proffi's Avatar
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    Default using synth oil in my old rattler

    I did an oil change today and figured i'd give full synthetic oil another run in the old fuego.

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    This time i have an oil temp/pressure gauge which makes direct comparisons a little more objective rather than just going on noise and bum feel.

    The donk had nulon 20-50 dino', and now has penrite 15-60 full sythetic ($39 for 5L).

    I can't see any difference on the gauge.
    It still idles at 20 psi and peaks at 78 (must be the bypass valve max pressure) still gets up to 110C when i fang it, and still takes about the same time to heat up and cool down.
    For any one interested, it took 23km of 70km/h gentle cruising with a handful of red light stops with hard accelerations back to 70km/h to get the oil up to temp, whereas the coolant was at temp in about 5 km.

    I'm yet to see how much oil ends up in the catch can.

    I also want to try and extend the oil change intervals a bit, so i installed a bypass oil filter.
    I'll be interest to see what the oil looks like in 5000km.



    Jo

  2. #2
    VIP Sponsor David Cavanagh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jo proffi View Post
    I did an oil change today and figured i'd give full synthetic oil another run in the old fuego.

    This time i have an oil temp/pressure gauge which makes direct comparisons a little more objective rather than just going on noise and bum feel.

    The donk had nulon 20-50 dino', and now has penrite 15-60 full sythetic ($39 for 5L).

    I can't see any difference on the gauge.
    It still idles at 20 psi and peaks at 78 (must be the bypass valve max pressure) still gets up to 110C when i fang it, and still takes about the same time to heat up and cool down.
    For any one interested, it took 23km of 70km/h gentle cruising with a handful of red light stops with hard accelerations back to 70km/h to get the oil up to temp, whereas the coolant was at temp in about 5 km.

    I'm yet to see how much oil ends up in the catch can.

    I also want to try and extend the oil change intervals a bit, so i installed a bypass oil filter.
    I'll be interest to see what the oil looks like in 5000km.



    Jo

    I've heard of old high km engines that have been "trained" on mineral oil developing oil leaks when switched to synthetic and the leaks disappear once mineral oil is put back on.

    So Jo keep an eye on your seals.
    David Cavanagh

    FRENCH CONNECTION / PEUGEO WRECKING / RENOSPARES / CITROWRECK

    03 9338 8191 or 03 93354008

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  3. #3
    1000+ Posts jo proffi's Avatar
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    Yes, I've read that too, although my seals are all only 1000km old and the primary surfaces had speedy sleeves fitted.
    The old rattly bits are all inside the motor so touch wood they will enjoy the superior lubrication the synthetic oil offers.
    At the moment the engine gets sighted every time I start and end a journey, and the pavement where the car rests is also always checked for both coolant and oil.
    Whilst the manifold wrap is great for controlling heat in the engine bay, it is a shocker when you spill oil on it. Been there done that.



    Jo

  4. #4
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    Jo,

    Going by the specs available on the net, have the following observations:

    Nulon 20W50: viscosity@40C - 164.3 viscosity@100C - 19.0 viscosity index - 131
    Penrite 15W60: viscosity@40C - 184.0 viscosity@100C - 25.1 viscosity index - 170
    Penrite 10W50: viscosity@40C - 132.0 viscosity@100C - 19.2 viscosity index - 166
    Penrite 0W50: viscosity@40C - 108.0 viscosity@100C - 18.7 viscosity index - 194

    Basically when cold Penrite 15W60 is approx 11% thicker than Nulon 20W50 (184 vs 164.3) but is 32% thicker (25.1 vs 19) at 100C. This is to be expected given its 60 weight rating. The higher the viscosity index an oil has, the better it will remain 'in spec'.

    Thus, at fang temps, your Nulon and Penrite are virtually the same (as you say), but I would expect the Penrite to fare better for longer.

    I have 0W50 ready to go in next change - (have 10W50 currently) will report how it fares - I also have an oil pressure gauge to monitor progress.

    As I have said before, my concern is cold starts, thus its Visc@40 - 108 is what I look at (only 65% relative 'thickness' at startup compared to the Nulon 20W50).

    New seals are synthetic oil happy.

    Interesting to see/hear other peoples thoughts (other than it is too expensive - I do 1 change per year and at $60 odd dollars it won't break the bank).

    David

  5. #5
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    I tried synthetic oil in the Alpine all it did was foul the plugs in a very short time
    If you've got too much traction, you haven't got enough horse power ...




    .2010 Holden Commodore Ute
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    1973 Alpine Renault A310/4 1600 VE

  6. #6
    1000+ Posts jo proffi's Avatar
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    David, thank you for your informative post.

    Which car are you adding 0-50 to??? The fuego??

    Jo

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by jo proffi View Post
    David, thank you for your informative post.

    Which car are you adding 0-50 to??? The fuego??

    Jo
    Jo,

    Yup the one and only - all my other cars are diesels and use a 5W30 or 5W40.
    Will keep on investigating to see if I can grab any 'new' easily obtainable oils that have better visc@40C/visc@100C.

    David

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