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Thread: Reno 15

  1. #1
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    Default Reno 15

    Are they worth restoring? Are body parts such as guards and door skins around? Are these motors easy to rebuild? I may be given a 73 model but it blows smoke when going uphill which suggests a rebuild, rings at least but wonder whether it is worth the effort and expense. My first French one was a 74 Renault 12 GL, but with the detuned motor and not a lot of power. This is even the same colour. Can air conditioning be fitted easily to a 15? I have a small under dash unit resting at the son's house. Even had thought s of it installed in the rear parcel shelf. Car is 200 hundred km away so can't check out all these ideas yet.
    Awaiting many interesting replies.
    Geoff.

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    Quote Originally Posted by geedee View Post
    Are they worth restoring? Are body parts such as guards and door skins around? Are these motors easy to rebuild? I may be given a 73 model but it blows smoke when going uphill which suggests a rebuild, rings at least but wonder whether it is worth the effort and expense. My first French one was a 74 Renault 12 GL, but with the detuned motor and not a lot of power. This is even the same colour. Can air conditioning be fitted easily to a 15? I have a small under dash unit resting at the son's house. Even had thought s of it installed in the rear parcel shelf. Car is 200 hundred km away so can't check out all these ideas yet.
    Awaiting many interesting replies.
    Geoff.
    Is a Renault worth restoring? Of course not, they never are, you restore them because you want to not because there worth it.

    Mechanical parts are not a problem but body parts are.
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    1000+ Posts alan moore's Avatar
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    Certainly if you spent $10K on a restoration, you would be unlikely to get it back if you sold the car. Mostly though we don't restore cars to sell them. A 15TS will go somewhat better than the R12 you remember. As Dave said, body panels are a bit thin on the ground, mechanical parts aren't much of a problem to find.

    A/C has been fitted to a 15 in Australia, but is a reasonably involved job (expensive)unless you have got some talent to do it yourself. The front pulley that only drives a fan would have to be modded, and and electric fan fitted, and then the bracketry to fit the compressor. A/C was never fitted to them or 17s as standard.
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    Thanks for the replies so far, all is on hold until I have a look at the car as it is two years since I last saw it. My memory could be wrong but I think the 15's had an electric fan as the motor was back to front compared to a 16. Probably no room in front of the radiator for a condenser, time will tell.
    Thanks
    Geoff.

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    Default After Restoration

    Always check the ashtray first when looking for rattles
    Last edited by driven; 24th October 2012 at 05:34 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by geedee View Post
    Thanks for the replies so far, all is on hold until I have a look at the car as it is two years since I last saw it. My memory could be wrong but I think the 15's had an electric fan as the motor was back to front compared to a 16. Probably no room in front of the radiator for a condenser, time will tell.
    Thanks
    Geoff.
    They didn't have thermo fans. It was a driven fan off the front pully but the tensioners used to chew out so a lot got converted to thermo.

    Yes condensers do fit but its very tight, usually space the radiator back a bit (easier with a thermo fan)

    I think AC was a dealer option on the 15/17 range as I've seen a few, the inside underdash unit fitted in the glove box and blew straight out onto the passenger. Aftermarket AC wasn't very successful back in the 70's so most units would have been tossed by now.
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    Default Maybe Ok as Garden Sculptures

    Then when you have had enough turn them into a garden sculpture

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    Quote Originally Posted by driven View Post
    Then when you have had enough turn them into a garden sculpture

    I soooo want to do that. Like the Cadillac ranch only with Renaults.
    David Cavanagh

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    Hi Geedee

    R 15 seem to be very thin on the ground these days. The 17 is far more popular because of its design but the motoring writers of the time preferred the 15 because of the extra visibility.

    David talks a lot of sense in that the mechanical bits seem to be fairly easy to obtain but body parts are all rusted out. Consequently you have to have a good panel beater to keep the things in shape.

    Mine originally had the belt driven fan but the bearing went and so it was converted to an electric fan which works well. Generally speaking, once the motors are fixed, you can't kill 'em. I've had mine for about 9 years and I still think it's one of the best cars to drive. They are great touring cars, too. MIne has been to Melbourne 4 times, Brisbane twice and Adelaide once.

    Alastair

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    Finally have the beast in the shed, looks like a low km car but needs some TLC. Most hoses look dead, can anyone stock/supply these?
    Still in two minds, do it up or let it go? Do the steering wheels crack on these as this one actually looks brittle?
    Anyone have a headlight or two, one cracked ,one a little dull. I know these are the same as Reno 12's but they are nearly as rare in these parts and are mostly the twin headlight ones.
    Lots of questions, lots of decisions.
    Thanks for the replies so far.
    Geoff.

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    Quote Originally Posted by geedee View Post
    Still in two minds, do it up or let it go?
    Go over the car carefully. Look for rust at the base of the A-pillar with the door open, as well as signs of internal rust all the way up the A-pillar as it is a double skinned panel that rusts from the inside out, In extreme cases, the door can fall off. Also check for rust at the sides of the plenum chamber, rust here leads to the A-pillars filling with water. Then look at the sides of the chassis rails for rust, they also rust from the inside out, the base of the rail has a double skin, so any rust is not obvious. Then check for rust in the rear panel behind the bumper and inside the boot, another double skin that fills with water from deteriorated tail light seals. Then check for rust in the quarter panels between the door and rear wheel arch. Also the floors can rust from the interior outwards as water gets trapped under bitumen soundproofing and the steel floor. Really, if there is any rust, and you have to pay someone to fix it, rather than learn welding as a hobby and taking it on as a challenge, probably keep looking for a suitable car. Cost will always exceed value.

    It is unfortunate, but a fact of lack of popularity, that good 15/17 shells have been wrecked. So whilst they may be rare, a decent car is not unobtanium, nor expensive to buy. You just have to be looking to buy at the right time and place.

    The original steering wheel of the 15 has a solid plastic rim, it is prone to cracking. However, it can be replaced with the soft feel steering wheel from a 17 (which usually have a loose rim) or with most other steering wheels from the 12/16/Virage/Fuego range. Just watch the proximity of the lights and blinker wands.

    For the hoses, start with French Connection or Caravelle Imports. The long 15/17 hoses are now getting rare, so you may have to adapt something using hose ends and fabricated tubing. Same with the headlights, French Connection or Caravelle Imports may be a good starting point.
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    I went into the rear of our local parts place and took in a hose and then went through all their hoses until I found two that's curves and hole size matched the original one. I then joined them with a bit of stainless tube I had. You can get a range of brass tube from a radiator repair shop to make the join. If you want the makes of cars the hoses were off I have them written in a book down in the workshop. If only one end is poor then just get a piece that suits the damaged piece. I have three cars with these hoses and the upper hose has been built from bits on each car. The lower hose was available last I needed one.

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    I have a 17G but think the 15 shell is nicer. Would like to stick the mechanicals in one, one day.
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    Actually my R15 is the car I have owned for the longest and that still goes 40 years on. (I have an R10S that I have had longer but it is just a rusty body.) I do prefer my R17TS/G's body style. But R15's can be made to look nice and drive well particularly on highways. I have 3 X R17's and the R15. One R17 from UK has every part rusted. The others have had rust in the lower doors, lower guards just behind the front wheel and just in front of the rear wheel. One has it in the right hand A pillar. The R15 the front edge of the bonnet and top of the front guard near the wind screen. One car has had rust in the spare tyre well. Doors, bonnets, and guards can be bogged up legally in Qld. But the rust in floors, spare wheel well, pillars, and in front of the rear wheel must be welded. None of my cars (except the UK car) have any rust in chassis or sills. In fact the 15 and one 17 still almost look like new underneath. Engines are very easy to rebuild and the bits are usually available in Australia from Caravelle Imports. You do need a workshop manual and these are often on Ebay. The only special tool you need to do an engine rebuild is a tension wrench, and feeler gauges. These can be hired or bought reasonably cheaply. I really hate to see an old car get crushed particularly a Renault. But you cannot save them all. Interestingly 3 months ago I bought an R17 from Bundaberg.

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    Sorry forgot. Fill the steering wheel cracks with araldyte or other epoxy products, sand and paint with black enamel.

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    Thanks for the replies especially Sunroof as we know the previous owner of that 17 and would have taken it for parts but at the time we did not have the 15 in our possession. It did have terminal rust to our thinking. This 15 is looking better the more I check it out. The radiator hoses are like crunchy paper, just ready to snap. So far rust seems only to be on the guards and a small amount on the roof near the hatch. It appears to have been an auto that has been converted to manual. I can vaguely remember a post about the plastic strip on the rear bumper, this one is not looking pristine, any clues as to a replacement? Going to the big smoke for a couple of days so nothing will be done for a bit. Anyone with bits is welcome to PM me if you can help.
    Thanks.
    Geoff.

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    Hi geedee

    If you are after headlights I have some that I can post to you if you can't source closer to you.
    Regards Col

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    Thanks for the offer Col, I will keep it in mind as I haven't started to search locally yet. I am aware of a couple of 12's in the district but one at least is a Virage so only twin headlights. Sixteens are only a memory around here as with Pugs most were well used and used well but now gone to a ferric heaven. Unusually the 15 has two perfect hubcaps and two with gutter rubs, anyone got any caps without the car? I have even found the tool kit with 3 Renault spanners in the boot, wow!
    All for now,Geoff.

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    The strip on the rear bumper is a problem. I have heard of people finding stainless steel strip the right size in France. Also someone once told me of a Ford LTD or Fairlane with a suitable size I never found any. I took some strips off the side of a Toyota in a wreckers once and sprayed them with chrome paint, but they were not quite right. Currently mine are both a bit tatty on my two registered cars, one I have sprayed with chrome paint. It does improve them.

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    Yes the Bundy R17 is fairly rusty but if you can weld probably not terminal. But then I haven't poked around underneath yet. Now my R17 G you could call terminal. Even inner guards, chassis rails, floors, A pillars, sills, not to mention everywhere else. My R15 is an auto, one advantage is that a 5 speed box will fit into an auto body. Where as if it was a manual then you would need to enlarge the gearbox hump. Is there any chance I can get a photo of the car, the oval plate, and the diamond plate for the R15/17 census in France. No names or addresses required just the car details and whether drivable, or being restored or wrecked. If you don't want to put it on here send me a PM and I'll give you my email address. Rob

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    Here are some sites for you geedee and Alister.

    I cannot turn off translate with out trouble, it is automatic, so hopefully they work.

    The first is the French Club I am a member of.

    http://translate.google.com/translat...o-orange.fr%2F

    The second is the forum.

    http://translate.google.com/translat...forumpro.fr%2F

    I really thought about listing these next two as it might put you off restoring your R15. I am a bit hopeless some times and you might be better at this restoration caper than me. My excuse is I try and do it on the cheap.

    My R17 thread.

    http://renaultinaus.17.forumer.com/viewtopic.php?t=389

    My R15 thread

    http://renaultinaus.17.forumer.com/viewtopic.php?t=115

    Last is the Australian R15/17 site that has not operated for a while. This is a great site.

    http://www.users.on.net/~matthew_bow...lia/index.html

    Rob

  22. #22
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    Will get photos as soon as possible. Are you dumping your 17 as I am looking for one of the strips on the sills? Are tail lights available in Oz, mine are faded but probably ok when ready for rego, but that could be some time though? Would love to see your collection sometime as am coming to the big smoke tomorrow but am cleaning out parents house for sale. Can you pm a phone number if you feel it is ok to contact you.
    Geoff.

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    The tail lenses are available from mecaparts in France, they also list the radiator hoses in their 12 g catalogue
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    PM sent.

  25. #25
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    An apology Sunroof. I have just realised that my email address was my old one so I did not receive your PM. I have notified the Administrator so hope this will be corrected before I leave for the big smoke tomorrow and can thus read your PM.
    Thanking you.
    Geoff.

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