Fitting new Sills R8
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  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! JodieK's Avatar
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    Default Fitting new Sills R8

    Any advice to make the job better will be appreciated.

    Before cutting the old sills off and welding the new ones on, what is the best way to ensure they go on correctly.

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    Car is a bare body shell on a rotisserie, so obviously the chassis is stressed differently than if it were sitting on it's wheels.

    I know to fit the doors to check gaps before welding the sills in place, but any advice on how to brace or jack, etc would help heaps.

    Thanks, PK
    Try anything once; except incest and folk dancing.

  2. #2
    1000+ Posts J-man's Avatar
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    Default Fitting new Sills R8

    This is not my field what so ever so take this with a grain of salt ....
    What if you were to temporarily Mig in a diagonal cross brace using square tubing or similar inside the cabin, floor to roof to hold the body in shape and prevent it from distorting while the sills are removed ? Then just cut them out after
    cheers,

    John

  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger! JodieK's Avatar
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    Thanks John, thats sort of what I have been thinking also. What I am interested in is where exactly to put the braces and how will things alter once it is off the rotisserie and on it's wheels.
    ie. if I get it braced so all the gaps look good whilst on the rotisserie, will it remain correct once on it's wheels.
    PK
    Try anything once; except incest and folk dancing.

  4. #4
    1000+ Posts J-man's Avatar
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    Default Fitting new Sills R8

    Would it be a huge hassle to take it back off the rotisserie and rest the body on jack stands placed under the body where the front & rear suspension mounts to it, then brace the body internally and then put it back on the rotisserie ? Perhaps run your brace from the LHR inner wheel arch to the top of the RHF A-pillar and likewise from the RHR inner wheel arch to the top of the LHF A-pillar ?
    cheers,

    John

  5. #5
    Fellow Frogger! R8 Dream's Avatar
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    The trick with any structural panel replacement is to measure, measure and measure.

    You will find, if the body is supported upright, that the sills will be in tension (with roof in compression). This is easier, as you will need to make sure it does not stretch out, so fixing (welding or screwing) some longitudinal tubing or angles will do the trick.

    Logically pick several points either side of the sills and diagonally across the body and record these down. I use photographs to help me remember what I measured. So when you are about to tack weld in the new ones, you check measure as this is important because if you realise after you have fully welded it in, it may be too late and it would be a bugger undoing it again. Of course after tack welding, you should also try fitting the door justto check the gaps.

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