505 super charged
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  1. #1
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    Default 505 super charged

    Hi all

    planning to add some power to my 1984 505 STi sedan at some stage in the future

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    does anyone know of a supercharger added to this model (petrol ZDJ mech fuel inj) ? My search of the forum didn't reveal anything

    turbo an option too (thoughts welcome on this ..) but am looking for more info on the supercharger option

    there's not much room in the engine bay ..

    ta

    Jeremy

  2. #2
    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by robjer View Post
    Hi all

    planning to add some power to my 1984 505 STi sedan at some stage in the future

    does anyone know of a supercharger added to this model (petrol ZDJ mech fuel inj) ? My search of the forum didn't reveal anything

    turbo an option too (thoughts welcome on this ..) but am looking for more info on the supercharger option

    there's not much room in the engine bay ..

    ta

    Jeremy
    Google Toyota SC14 or SC12 supercharger. There were fitted to the Crowns and 4AGE engines.

    The SC14 is available with A section belt pulley which drives off a standard aircon belt.

    Toyota SCs have an electric clutch. Toyota used the ECU to switch the clutch and used a bypass system in the intake ducting to bypass the SC when the clutch was not engaged.

    They are rootes type tri lobe blower. I think they are have their own lubrication system so they don't need an oil feed.

    Holden enthusiasts use them, without the clutch and with a custom (smaller) pulley to make them spin faster to thus get more boost.

    They are very strong and reliable and for sale at around $300-500.

    Check the unit you purchase spins freely, without noise or binding and doesn't have gravel rash of the lobes caused by crud in the intake or worse still has digested a foreign object. Other than that they are reliable and long lasting.

  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger! stew's Avatar
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    Ive done it. The fuel system won't cope and the ignition won't either. Turbo is best as trying to drive in traffic with a blower pushing 1.4l of air per revolution into the throttle is too crazy. The blower needs to be switched on and off, more fuel with big spark, accurate spark control, engine computer........................................et c..etc. more money........hair loss.......more money....

    If you want better power from the old darling while using the std. fuel and ignition system, you might get another 20 hp by fine tuning.
    If you want a faster car have look at a 406 D9 V6 manual, or an injected V6 505! It's cheaper.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by stew View Post
    Ive done it. The fuel system won't cope and the ignition won't either. Turbo is best as trying to drive in traffic with a blower pushing 1.4l of air per revolution into the throttle is too crazy. The blower needs to be switched on and off, more fuel with big spark, accurate spark control, engine computer........................................et c..etc. more money........hair loss.......more money....

    If you want better power from the old darling while using the std. fuel and ignition system, you might get another 20 hp by fine tuning.
    If you want a faster car have look at a 406 D9 V6 manual, or an injected V6 505! It's cheaper.
    Is this car a manual?
    Auto sucks a large amount of power.
    Otherwise convert to EFI from a GTi, remove pollution equipment, fit 2 inch low restriction exhaust and fit aftermarket ECU (Megasquirt 1 works great and is cheap). Light flywheel is worth while if you have the engine out.
    With these mods the car will perform the way it should have originally.
    Graham

  5. #5
    1000+ Posts Pugnut403's Avatar
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    Also megasuirt will handle boost if you want it...
    Boosting mechanical injection is doable but a right pain in the arse...
    Pugs Rule!

    403, now sold
    404, project
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  6. #6
    1000+ Posts Capago's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GRAHAM WALLIS View Post
    Is this car a manual?
    Auto sucks a large amount of power.
    Otherwise convert to EFI from a GTi, remove pollution equipment, fit 2 inch low restriction exhaust and fit aftermarket ECU (Megasquirt 1 works great and is cheap). Light flywheel is worth while if you have the engine out.
    With these mods the car will perform the way it should have originally.
    Graham
    why would you want it to work the way it originally did?

    doo do do dosh dosh dosh dooooo doo doo doooooooooooossssssssssshhhhh
    The wrong oil is better than no oil at all.

  7. #7
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    [QUOTE=Capago;1069494]why would you want it to work the way it originally did?

    doo do do dosh dosh dosh dooooo doo doo doooooooooooossssssssssshhhhh[/QUOTE

    The way it was designed to work by the engineers, not the way we got it it served up to us after marketing, the bean counters and the Govt had their say
    There is actually a very good engine in there waiting to get out.

    Graham

  8. #8
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    thanks all

    food for thought

    looks like turbo is the better way to go

  9. #9
    Fellow Frogger! stew's Avatar
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    Turbo is the ticket, really. I've almost finished mine in the little 404. Thankfully for me I've had the sense to write down every change and theory, this time. The turbo let's you putter around quietly and tear the bal## off the overweight HSV next to you, when you want. And do it quietly. If you would like some help in getting together some parts, let me know. I'm running an old Link G3 ecu and the crank angle sensor from a Nissan . 0.8 bar and 9.2 compression. That is the great thing about new electronic control, the fantastic accuracy of it all makes for great fun.

  10. #10
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    Sounds great - can u pm with ur email?

    Got some questions about the engine u used

    Jeremy

  11. #11
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    A few years back, Chris, a forum member (505 to the max) was running a ZDJL with a turbocharger. After several head gasket failings, he gave up.

    More recently, another young bloke (who's name or handle I can't remember, and I cant find his posts probably because it was before the great crash) was running another ZDJL with a turbo. It also kept doing head gaskets.

    So be very careful about the boost levels you run on a standard block. I suspect that increasing the liner protrusion a few though and using non-TTY head bolts with a little extra tension (making sure of course that the threads in the block are perfectly clean and lightly oiled) would help. Regular retensions wouldn't go astray either!

    The ZDJ series engines use an O-ring to seal the base of the liners, but the liner itself still sits solidly on a flange in the block. This means that you can't adjust the liner protrusion by shimming like you can on a PRV or an XN, but at least once you get it set the way you want (by machining the block deck), you can be confident that it will stay that way.
    Scotty

    Melbourne - Dandenong Ranges

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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Demannu View Post
    A few years back, Chris, a forum member (505 to the max) was running a ZDJL with a turbocharger. After several head gasket failings, he gave up.

    More recently, another young bloke (who's name or handle I can't remember, and I cant find his posts probably because it was before the great crash) was running another ZDJL with a turbo. It also kept doing head gaskets.

    So be very careful about the boost levels you run on a standard block. I suspect that increasing the liner protrusion a few though and using non-TTY head bolts with a little extra tension (making sure of course that the threads in the block are perfectly clean and lightly oiled) would help. Regular retensions wouldn't go astray either!

    The ZDJ series engines use an O-ring to seal the base of the liners, but the liner itself still sits solidly on a flange in the block. This means that you can't adjust the liner protrusion by shimming like you can on a PRV or an XN, but at least once you get it set the way you want (by machining the block deck), you can be confident that it will stay that way.

    Bolts are non TTY already.
    I have had both water in sump and oil out the side, due to head gasket problems in ZDJs so would be worth planing the block and head to be sure everything is sealing properly.
    Both people you mentioned were just going for big dyno figures at minimum expense, the second car you mentioned was sold to someone who knew what they were doing and is now reliable and being used for motorsport. It has an auto, however, as he kept breaking gearboxes.
    Graham

  13. #13
    Fellow Frogger! salman's Avatar
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    Default whicj ecu!

    Graham,so which ecu is he using?would it have provision to adapt with Turbo set up?
    Can you pm contact of the one you said rallys just to catch up with him.cheers

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by salman View Post
    Graham,so which ecu is he using?would it have provision to adapt with Turbo set up?
    Can you pm contact of the one you said rallys just to catch up with him.cheers
    Running on gas so no ECU. GasResearch system
    Graham

  15. #15
    Fellow Frogger! Molerpa's Avatar
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    Gas??? Yeaaaaaaaaaaaaah!!!


    All I know of this engine, turbocharged, is that here most of the people used forged pistons 8:1 CR, and up to 28 psi can handle.... more than that, the liners are not very happy. This, on a Renault Fuego engine...

    My plan would be reaching 15 psi, with 8.7 CR standard pistons (Renault Fuego 2.2), instead of the 9.8 originals, on Gas (CNG, around 127 octane) and 10 psi on petrol. Im quite sure that should have a long lasting with this configuration.
    Last edited by Molerpa; 15th June 2012 at 10:28 PM.


    Quote Originally Posted by luthier View Post
    It is simply impractical to expect a petrol motor to get through too much water. That's why God invented diesels.

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