406 D8 central locking
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  1. #1
    WLB
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    Default 406 D8 central locking

    I'm experiencing problems (again) with the central locking of the 1998 406 SRDT.

    The initial problem last year was the failure of the remote operation which necessitated the use of the key in the lock. The next problem was the failure of the key turning in the keyhole to actually engage with anything. It just turned freely in any direction as many times as you cared to turn it until it would suddenly engage with the lock mechanism and operate it. Very strange and intermittent. Although the tendency not to work seemed directly related to the security of the area in which it was parked - of course. It became progressively worse until I fixed the remote operation of the key by pulling it apart and blasting the switch with aerosol contact cleaner.

    Once the remote was in general use again, turning the key in the lock on the odd occasion tended to work. Very strange.

    The latest thing to go wrong is the actuators seem to be only half operating sometimes. You push the button on the key to lock or unlock and rather than getting the loud whirring and clunk of the actuators working, you get a feeble buzzing noise and nothing happens ... the doors remain locked, or unlocked. Unfortunately, using the key in the lock gives the same result. The key, if it engages mechanically and doesn't rotate around and around as previously described, simply produces the same feeble whirring with no mechanical result.

    It would seem that unlike central locking of old, there is no mechanical connection between the lock cylinder and the lock. The cylinder must just operate a switch for the lock actuators so there is no mechanical fall-back position. Another brilliant technological advance.

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    Has anyone else experienced this?

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    Yeah, seems like it's a common problem. I'm experincing a problem with my rear LH door - sometimes it works, somtimes it doesnt - really safe, eh?

    It's not that different to the issues wuth Series 2 505 central locking - seems like there's not enough power getting to it, but I think the only solution would be to replace the door lock which, as you say, includes the central locking mechanism. Getting a second hand one probably only temporarily fixes the issue. Be interesting to see if they can be pulled apart and fixed.
    1998 Peugeot 406 D8SV Manual
    1999 Peugeot 406 D8ST Auto
    2002 Peugeot 406 D9SV Manual
    1994 Peuegot 306 N3 Cabriolet Manual
    1994 Peugeot 306 XR N3 Hatch
    1995 Peugeot 505 GTI executive
    1976 Peugeot 504 Sedan - Now sold

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    WLB
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    Thanks Gerry.

    I guess I need to start looking at the start of the system as all locks behave the same. If it's lack of power or a voltage drop, it must be at a common point.

    I guess I'll also need to take the door trim off to see what the mechanical problem is that allows to key to revolve sometimes.

    Sending you an e-mail was next on my list of things to do. I got 16 504 Dunlop wheel nuts from Basil on Saturday. He's got quite a lot.

    Cheers,
    Warwick

  4. #4
    Fellow Frogger! andrepug's Avatar
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    Had the same problem with my SRDT. Locking driver's door with the key would not lock all the other doors. Auto elec traced it to a relay in the front passenger door. Cleaned contacts - OK.

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    WLB
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    Brilliant! Thanks Andrew.

    And the passenger door would be the driver's door on most of the cars, so that makes sense too.

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    Sans Pond. STALLED's Avatar
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    Also the key profile wears out with age - try using the "second" key, makes a mountain of difference!
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  7. #7
    WLB
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    Thanks Joel,
    but I tried that and both keys behave the same and neither looks worn.


    Andrew,
    Something you said has just sunk in. Are you saying that when you had the problem, the key would lock the driver's door but not the others?

    Mine won't lock any door, including the door into which the key is inserted. I have been assuming that the locks are totally electrically operated - with no mechanical connection between the rotating lock cylinder and the lock hardware. i.e. that the lock cylinder simply operates a central locking switch.

    But if you're saying that when yours was playing up, turning the key in the driver's door locked the driver's door then it means I have 2 problems.

    1. The faulty relay in the passenger door preventing the electric actuators from working.

    2. A link between the lock cylinder and the lock has broken preventing the key from operating that lock mechanically.

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    1000+ Posts catshamlet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WLB View Post
    Mine won't lock any door, including the door into which the key is inserted. I have been assuming that the locks are totally electrically operated - with no mechanical connection between the rotating lock cylinder and the lock hardware. i.e. that the lock cylinder simply operates a central locking switch.
    Hi Warwick,
    I can't swear to it, but I don't think that's the case. A quick check would be to disconnect the battery and then try your key in the lock.

    But leave your bonnet open in case I'm talking [email protected]@cks.



    Mike.
    Started out with nothing, still got most of it left.

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    WLB
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    Thanks Mike,

    I'll try that, but it does feel like there isn't anything happening at the end of the key. Maybe I'll just fit one of those Mr Bean locks. Are they still available in the UK?

    Warwick

  10. #10
    Fellow Frogger! andrepug's Avatar
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    Hi Warwick, Before the central locking stopped working the key just rotated in the lock and did nothing like yours but that was only a few times and a bit of a 'jiggle' got it to operate again. I think the lock is a mechanical one with links to the central operation which locks the other doors. I had not been using the remote for a long time so always locked by turning the key in the driver's door which locked the others. After awhile the others would not lock which meant reaching over and locking them from inside if they had been opened.
    The fault was traced to the relay. Now I've got an HDI.

  11. #11
    WLB
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    Thanks Andrew.

    I'm at the next phase I'm afraid. The key used to turn freely a few times and a bit of jiggling, or sideways pressure, would engage some hidden mechanism and it would operate the driver's lock and all other doors.

    However, jiggling or pressure on the key no longer helps and it just rotates freely. But at other times it works normally.

    It looks like I need to take the passenger side door trim off and deal with the relay and also get an understanding of the mechanism of the lock.

    The car just turned over 400,000km on Sunday, although the 1st digit displaying working 90,000km ago, so it's just a row of zeros - like the old days.
    Last edited by WLB; 7th June 2012 at 11:02 AM.

  12. #12
    Fellow Frogger! ajpolden's Avatar
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    I believe the turning lock barrel is a security mechanism to prevent damage from screw drivers or other implements forcing the barrel to turn. The wrong key or an incorrectly inserted key will also turn freely. Mine does this often if I don't insert the key completely before starting to turn. Usually one complete turn is enough to reset the lock if this occurs.

    My central locking stopped working a couple of years ago and I don't have a solution yet, I'll be interested to hear the outcome of your own problem. My symptoms are a little different though: the remote triggers a circuit in the car (I can hear a relay click), but there is no response from the locks. The key inserted into the driver's side locks the driver's door, rear passenger door and boot, and unlocks only the driver's when turned the other direction. When put in the passenger side, it locks only the two passenger doors, and unlocks only the front passenger door.
    My suspicion is the control unit behind the glove-box (a pain in the to get at), but I also read somewhere that dicky actuators can stop the circuit from working too. If there's a relay in the passenger door, that might give me something to look out for at one of these days when I can find the time.

    Andrew
    Current:
    1999 406SV (D8)
    Previous:
    1986 BX19GT

  13. #13
    WLB
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    Thanks Andrew. Very interesting and it could explain a lot. What I thought were symptoms may be features!
    I'll have a closer look on the weekend and report back.

    As it happens, the glovebox and lower left facia are presently removed - but that's another story.

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