Performance brake fluid? Any suggestions?
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  1. #1
    Member Simon888's Avatar
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    Default Performance brake fluid? Any suggestions?

    Just about to install some new Black Diamond rotors with EBC Green Stuff pads, but I'm at a bit of a loss in regards to fluid for fast road applications.
    Any suggestions? Or bad experiences I should avoid?

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  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Yeah, avoid blue and dark coloured brake fluid.
    Stains everything - always blue etc coming through - hard to tell when fresh fluid coming through.

    David

  3. #3
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    I use motul RBF 600. About $35 for a 500ml bottle, available from practically all bike shops. It is a DOT 4 fluid but with a higher boiling point. Note that I flush out the system once a year because of its higer water absorbtion qualities.
    Last edited by bad_karma; 27th April 2012 at 01:29 PM.
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    sans witticism SLC206's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simon888 View Post
    Just about to install some new Black Diamond rotors with EBC Green Stuff pads, but I'm at a bit of a loss in regards to fluid for fast road applications.
    Any suggestions? Or bad experiences I should avoid?
    I think you should just stick with Dot 4/Super Dot 4 fluid and make sure you change it at least every 2 years.

    Moving to Dot 5 "competition" fluid is silicon-based and involves completely cleaning the brake system of any glycol-based brake fluid and is far too much hassle.

    Dot 5.1 is not supposed to have this issue, but I'm not sure if it costs more, or whether the extra cost is worth it for a road car. Regardless, it still needs to be changed every 2 years.
    Regards,

    Simon

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    Quote Originally Posted by Simon888 View Post
    Any suggestions? Or bad experiences I should avoid?
    Yes, consider some different brake pads and stick to normal brake fluid.

    And what do you mean by fast road? Roads have speed limits so everyone generally drives at the same fastness unless they want a ticket.

  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger! 908HDI's Avatar
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    Fresh DOT 4

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    Quote Originally Posted by AlanDSeagal View Post
    Yes, consider some different brake pads and stick to normal brake fluid.

    And what do you mean by fast road? Roads have speed limits so everyone generally drives at the same fastness unless they want a ticket.
    You are right,

    Unless you are doing track work ye-old castrol super DOT 4 (fresh stuff that is) should be sufficient.
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    Quote Originally Posted by AlanDSeagal View Post
    Yes, consider some different brake pads
    Interested as to why you say this Alan? I've been running greenstuf pads now for many years (still the original set). Their only drawback is increased pedal pressure required when they are cold.

    I changed to them because the OEM pads are so hard that I wore out three sets of disks without the pads showing any sign of wear at all! The greenstuff are definitely much kinder on the disks, and when they are warmed up have excellent bite.

    Mine are finally down to about 20% so I will need to consider a replacement in the next couple of years. Something that is as kind on the dics but has good cold performance would be nice

    Tony.
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  9. #9
    1000+ Posts Andrew Ch's Avatar
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    + 1 above......and the bonus of less visible pad dust.

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    If you guys have Ford spec Dot 3 it's got a very high boiling point, and it's cheap. Used it in a pro-rally car with no fade, and it was cheap enough to flush out often.

    We found fresh fluid is better than any old fluid no matter how good / expensive it was.

    Rabin

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    Steer clear of dot 5 with a vengeance-it is a PAIN IN THE A[utomobile]
    ADD TO THAT it is non hydroscopic so ony moisture in the system does not get absorbed in to the fluid & STAYS IN RTHE PIPE IF YOU USE DOT 3.
    Add to that the c/over is an absolute pain!!!!!!!!!!

    Pekay.

  12. #12
    1000+ Posts Pugnut403's Avatar
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    I like to use a DOT 4 and flush yearly.
    Also I like to each service flush a little fluid from each caliper, removing the small amount that gets the hardest life.
    Fluid in the caliper is heated more than the rest and the caliper seals are one point I moisture absorption so sending 50ml out of each caliper every service seems to me a good idea.
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wintermute View Post
    I've been running greenstuf pads now for many years (still the original set). Their only drawback is increased pedal pressure required when they are cold.
    Some people don't like this. And you can usually get more than one year out of other brands too.

  14. #14
    Fellow Frogger! Wintermute's Avatar
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    That's understandable I'm actually not 100% sure if they are worse than normal pads when cold, or whether they are just significantly better when hot (making them seem worse when cold).

    The problem I had with the OEM pads was not that they wore out too quickly, but that they didn't wear out at all! They were still at 90 -95% after about 100,000KM and I'd worn out three sets of disks in that time! The greenstuff are the fastest wearing pads I've had (well I've only had OEM to compare to). At the time I changed about the only other available were pagid, and they were hard to get and expensive. Things may have changed in the last 10 years

    Tony.
    306 S16 1995 black
    Morris 1100 1965 green

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    1000+ Posts Pugnut403's Avatar
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    I've only run green stuff on one vehicle.
    They certainly were harder pressure for the first two or three applications when really cold then they bit like nobody's business!
    I loved them!
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  16. #16
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    Another vote for

    motul RBF 600

    Used in all my race cars for last 10 years. No issues
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  17. #17
    I might be slow... DRTDVL's Avatar
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    I use the RBF600 and change it either once a year or if i boil it.

    Some things you should know. Typically the more race orentaied braked fluids are more hydroscopic - requiring flushing more often.

    WET BOILING POINT - The minimum temperatures that brake fluids will begin to boil when the brake system contains 3% water by volume of the system. (30ml on most cars)

    DRY BOILING POINT - The temperatures that brake fluid will boil with no water present in the system.

    Also might be worth mentioning if you have any magnesium parts parts in your brakes as a bunch of fluids are now saying things like: "Bembo LCF 600+ must not be used in Brake Systems containing magnesium parts."

  18. #18
    Member Simon888's Avatar
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    Thanks guys. That's awesome advice.
    I've gotten hold of some high boiling point (600+) Penrite DOT 4 fluid. The brakes will get a full flush through when installed on Friday.
    I'll make sure the brakes are warm before doing any serious braking with the Green stuff pads.
    Thanks again.

  19. #19
    Member Simon888's Avatar
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    Brakes are great. Better feel than the worn out rotors and pads and old fluid I was running .
    Nice consistent feel. Even pressure provides good expected braking. No hard grabbing at all.
    Nice combo.

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