FedGrapes' Peugeot Blog!
  • Register
  • Help
Page 1 of 3 123 Last
Results 1 to 25 of 54
Like Tree1Likes

Thread: FedGrapes' Peugeot Blog!

  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! FedGrapes's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Posts
    835

    Default FedGrapes' Peugeot Blog!



    Well, hardly surprising, but I'm a frogger now! Three pugs to my name, and counting. I decided it is probably best to have a single location for all my questions and updates!

    The first member of my stable is a nice 1976 504 LTI. My plans for it are under way, and this car promises to be my love for many years to come! This thread here chronicles the buying and this the first few months of ownership.

    The second member is a Peugeot 14 speed bicycle, from the 80s I believe. It says CAD on the frame. Spent $100 on it, then about twice that on accessories so I could ride it and maintain it. Nice piece of equipment! Glad I didn't buy something the same price at the supermarket!

    Most recently is the 1974 504 GL, which can be seen here, that James S has been working on for 18 months (as much as he had time for). A trip to Canberra for a viewing returned with a piece of paper saying that I now owned another 504, and a bunch of parts. This car is going to under go a restoration to what I would call "good" working order. The project is scheduled to happen over the next summer, in Sydney. I will use the parts I bought from James (great to excellent/new condition) to do up the LTI, and use the parts from my car (good to great condition) to do up the GL. This project should yield a car for me, that is as I dream it to be, and a car for my father that is in nice running condition, and wouldn't look too poor at a French car day.

    Possible next addition is a 1983 505 SRDT that is for sale in Perth. I'm looking for a car that is cheap and running fairly well to keep me on the road when my 504s are both off it! This is the 505!

    Advertisement


    Pictures and more details to come!
    Last edited by FedGrapes; 16th April 2012 at 12:33 PM. Reason: Parallel project plans added

  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger! FedGrapes's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Posts
    835

    Default

    First order of business!

    Peugeot 505 SRD Turbo, 1983.



    This car looks perfect to keep my on the road while the 504s get restored!

    I looked at this 505 yesterday, and it was fairly nice to drive (surprising, huh!). The physical and cosmetic condition is what I would call excellent; a couple of cracks on the dash, a couple of small rust patches, and a small dent near the fuel cap. The roof rack is not included.

    This list came with the car, which details the defects found on a very recent service.

    Perform work, as requested by the customer
    -Reset dash service warning light/message if require.
    +Change oil and oil filter. Test battery, check coolant & system hoses, visual check under vehicle, brake fluid, brake hydraulic, linings and pads, air & fuel filter.
    +Check and top up fluid level.
    +Check exhaust system
    +Adjusted tyres pressure, grease all points if require.
    +Check drive belts, clean battery terminal if require
    +Check lights & wiper, washer & horn operation
    +Check all wheels rotation +Check abnormal noise
    +Check wiper blades.
    +Check diesel pump leaking, check tighten injector pipe. This is my biggest worry. The injector is leaking from a what seems a single line to a cylinder

    ***Defects needing immediate attention and rectify***
    -Battery fail test aging, needs replace. Reads 12.02V, and is 5 year old lead acid. Likely, it is time.
    -Diesel pump leaking. As above, a slow drip leak from an injector line at the injector
    -Minor oil seeps leaks in motor & transmission & P/S.
    -motor and under car need degreasing.
    -Cooling system parts & hoses aging & soft & corrosion
    +Cooling system needs flushing due and rusted
    +Cooling system show leaking sign seems to be the pipe connecting to the reservoir. Easy fix?
    +Radiator needs attention Looks new?
    +Ignition parts aging
    +Drive belts aging worn. + AC Belt + parts missing
    +Brake fluid due change, contamination needs flushing.
    +Brake hydraulic parts aging needs attention & change
    +Left side steering boot broken
    +Brake pulsation & steering wobble when brake (steering wandering when road test) bald tyres The passenger side front wheel has rubbed itself bare on the outside. Is this fixed with a new tyre and an alignment?
    +Under car rubber parts age worn and slight cracked
    -Auto transmission fluid due contaminated needs flushing
    -Exhaust system rusted
    -Shocky soft, worn, eng mounts rubber
    -Air filter needs replace
    -Noise from motor, transmission, under vehicle.
    When being shown the car, it also had a start issueÖ it hesitated to catch. Starter sounded healthy. This happened twice, with the current owner starting it. The car did then start, and he said this hasnít happened before. Thoughts?


    At the end of the day, this is $1200 thatís main purpose is to get me through the next year or two while the 504 gets done up. Is it likely to keep living without much cash investment? Is the price reasonable?

  3. #3
    Demannu-facturing! Demannu's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Menzies Creek
    Posts
    2,541

    Default

    That's certainly a tidy SRDT. Shame about that dent above the fuel cap, and the brown interior though! There is a lot to be said for an automatic 505 turbo diesel. With a little tuning, they are easily a match for their petrol counterparts, but with an absolutely effortless driving style.

    James' 504 looked like a bargain. We need lots of photos!
    Scotty

    Melbourne - Dandenong Ranges

    1956 Peugeot 403 - 'Francois' - resto project

    1969 Peugeot 504 - 'Pascal' - daily driver project

    1970 Peugeot 404 Utility - 'Brutus' - resto project

    1978 Peugeot 604 - as yet unnamed - V6 on straight LPG

    1987 Peugeot 505 - as yet unnamed - project car

    1999 Peugeot 406 Coupť - 'Chloe' - 5 speed manual

    2011 Peugeot 3008 XTE HDi - 'Zoe' - hatchback on steroids

    2014 Peugeot RCZ - 'Remy'

    1999 Range Rover 4.6 HSE - 'Grover' - tow car

  4. #4
    Demannu-facturing! Demannu's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Menzies Creek
    Posts
    2,541

    Default

    +Check diesel pump leaking, check tighten injector pipe. This is my biggest worry. The injector is leaking from a what seems a single line to a cylinder
    • If it is just the injector line, tightening it may sort it out. It could also be a damaged fitting on one end. If it is the pump, they can be resealed for a lot less than the price of a full rebuild.



    ***Defects needing immediate attention and rectify***
    -Battery fail test aging, needs replace. Reads 12.02V, and is 5 year old lead acid. Likely, it is time.
    • It will just not start one day. To avoid this risk, replace the battery.

    -Diesel pump leaking. As above, a slow drip leak from an injector line at the injector
    • That sounds like two problems. Leaking injector pipe and leaking pump.

    -Minor oil seeps leaks in motor & transmission & P/S.
    • Very unusual to have minor leaks in a peugeot diesel. Normally they're major leaks!

    -motor and under car need degreasing.
    -Cooling system parts & hoses aging & soft & corrosion
    +Cooling system needs flushing due and rusted
    +Cooling system show leaking sign seems to be the pipe connecting to the reservoir. Easy fix?
    +Radiator needs attention Looks new?
    +Ignition parts aging
    • Interesting. Ignition parts on a diesel. Is this a qualified mechanic?

    +Drive belts aging worn. + AC Belt + parts missing
    +Brake fluid due change, contamination needs flushing.
    • Easy job, and well worth it. Costs a bottle of fluid.

    +Brake hydraulic parts aging needs attention & change
    • There's only four flexible hoses in the whole system. Not overly expensive to change the whole lot. Do it before you do the flush though!

    +Left side steering boot broken
    • Left hand side is harder than right hand side to swap, because the power steering ram bolts on. But still not overly difficult.

    +Brake pulsation & steering wobble when brake (steering wandering when road test) bald tyres The passenger side front wheel has rubbed itself bare on the outside. Is this fixed with a new tyre and an alignment?
    • Pulsing brakes will be glazed/warped discs. The worn tyre means wheel alignment is out - which could just be adjustment, but more likely on a car of this age a dead ball joint, steering bush or suspension bush is more likely. Kingpin ball joint failures are very common on 505s these days.

    +Under car rubber parts age worn and slight cracked
    -Auto transmission fluid due contaminated needs flushing
    • Simple. So long as it still shifts OK, a new filter and fluid will breathe new life into it.

    -Exhaust system rusted
    -Shocky soft, worn, eng mounts rubber
    -Air filter needs replace
    -Noise from motor, transmission, under vehicle.
    • That narrows it down. Motor or transmission? Common causes of noise under the car in 505s are exhaust rattles, and on autos, loose dustcovers on the bell housing.
    Scotty

    Melbourne - Dandenong Ranges

    1956 Peugeot 403 - 'Francois' - resto project

    1969 Peugeot 504 - 'Pascal' - daily driver project

    1970 Peugeot 404 Utility - 'Brutus' - resto project

    1978 Peugeot 604 - as yet unnamed - V6 on straight LPG

    1987 Peugeot 505 - as yet unnamed - project car

    1999 Peugeot 406 Coupť - 'Chloe' - 5 speed manual

    2011 Peugeot 3008 XTE HDi - 'Zoe' - hatchback on steroids

    2014 Peugeot RCZ - 'Remy'

    1999 Range Rover 4.6 HSE - 'Grover' - tow car

  5. #5
    Fellow Frogger! FedGrapes's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Posts
    835

    Default

    Thanks Scotty! I was considering asking your advice directly!

    How bad are the mechanicals of the 505 to keep running? I'm looking for cheap as chips motoring (an oxymoron, of course!).

    My feeling is that only the fuel leak is an issue, and tightening the nut didn't fix this. The injector had work in 2003; I'm guessing that the seals were done at the time to the new style that doesn't suffer with the low sulphur diesel. Is this likely to be an cheap/easy or costly/hard fix?

    Are the fuel leak or the non-start issue particularly bad signs?

    edit: you beat me!

  6. #6
    Demannu-facturing! Demannu's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Menzies Creek
    Posts
    2,541

    Default

    505s are very easy to keep running, especially diesels. There are no ignition system components to deal with, just the injector pump. Keep fresh fuel filters on it (every time you change the oil filter, change the fuel filter. They're cheap).

    Hard to comment on the injector pump without seeing it. If it's leaking from just one injector pipe (presumably we're talking about the pump end, not the injector end), then it could also be leaking from where the delivery valve joins the pump body. Firstly, remove the injector pipe and check the fittings. If they have been overtightened in the past, it can damage the sealing surface beyond repair. This applies for both the injector line and the delivery valve. The good news is that spares are pretty easy to find, or at worst, any good workshop should be able to bend up a replacement injector line if yours is too far gone.

    The non-starting issue could be something as simple as him not having waited long enough for the glow plugs to do their work. Or the glow plug timer could have glitched. But if it starts well every other time, I wouldn't worry about the condition of the engine internals.
    Scotty

    Melbourne - Dandenong Ranges

    1956 Peugeot 403 - 'Francois' - resto project

    1969 Peugeot 504 - 'Pascal' - daily driver project

    1970 Peugeot 404 Utility - 'Brutus' - resto project

    1978 Peugeot 604 - as yet unnamed - V6 on straight LPG

    1987 Peugeot 505 - as yet unnamed - project car

    1999 Peugeot 406 Coupť - 'Chloe' - 5 speed manual

    2011 Peugeot 3008 XTE HDi - 'Zoe' - hatchback on steroids

    2014 Peugeot RCZ - 'Remy'

    1999 Range Rover 4.6 HSE - 'Grover' - tow car

  7. #7
    Fellow Frogger! FedGrapes's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Posts
    835

    Default

    I found your past posts on putting a plug in the waste gate, and if I did that, I think I would install a tap instead of just blocking it. This would be able to increase the cooling back to normal when needed, or close it off for better performance?

    Quote Originally Posted by Demannu View Post
    +Check diesel pump leaking, check tighten injector pipe. This is my biggest worry. The injector is leaking from a what seems a single line to a cylinder
    • If it is just the injector line, tightening it may sort it out. It could also be a damaged fitting on one end. If it is the pump, they can be resealed for a lot less than the price of a full rebuild.



    ***Defects needing immediate attention and rectify***
    -Battery fail test aging, needs replace. Reads 12.02V, and is 5 year old lead acid. Likely, it is time.
    • It will just not start one day. To avoid this risk, replace the battery.
      Noted, cheers

    -Diesel pump leaking. As above, a slow drip leak from an injector line at the injector
    • That sounds like two problems. Leaking injector pipe and leaking pump.
      Poor terminology usage strikes I believe, the only fuel is on the engine side of the injector pump. As I understand, there is only a single fuel leak. Are you saying that this possibly has two causes?

    -Minor oil seeps leaks in motor & transmission & P/S.
    • Very unusual to have minor leaks in a peugeot diesel. Normally they're major leaks!
      This could just be a visual examination saying that the car needs to degreasing, and guessing at a cause.

    -motor and under car need degreasing.
    -Cooling system parts & hoses aging & soft & corrosion
    +Cooling system needs flushing due and rusted
    +Cooling system show leaking sign seems to be the pipe connecting to the reservoir. Easy fix?
    +Radiator needs attention Looks new?
    +Ignition parts aging
    • Interesting. Ignition parts on a diesel. Is this a qualified mechanic?
      Qualified apparently, but Iím not sure the level of qualification. I suppose the first step is to install new spark plugs, and an electric ignition from a late model 505?

    +Drive belts aging worn. + AC Belt + parts missing
    Further on this, the nut on the end of the AC pump that holds some plate on has disappeared. A replacement nut and AC belt should bring the system back online (and possibly uncover more issues, Iím guessing!).
    +Brake fluid due change, contamination needs flushing.
    • Easy job, and well worth it. Costs a bottle of fluid.
      Seller has a 505 Haynes manual, and the XD2S (504/505) manual; this should provide instructions how to do this, yes?

    +Brake hydraulic parts aging needs attention & change
    • There's only four flexible hoses in the whole system. Not overly expensive to change the whole lot. Do it before you do the flush though!
      Does this require some under the car action? My garage consists of a grassy verge, and my tools are contained within a small toolbox currently (lots of precision stuff from computer work!)

    +Left side steering boot broken
    • Left hand side is harder than right hand side to swap, because the power steering ram bolts on. But still not overly difficult.
      Would this be causing the alignment error?

    +Brake pulsation & steering wobble when brake (steering wandering when road test) bald tyres The passenger side front wheel has rubbed itself bare on the outside. Is this fixed with a new tyre and an alignment?
    • Pulsing brakes will be glazed/warped discs. The worn tyre means wheel alignment is out - which could just be adjustment, but more likely on a car of this age a dead ball joint, steering bush or suspension bush is more likely. Kingpin ball joint failures are very common on 505s these days.
      Pulsing fixed by a new disc? Iím guessing both fronts should be done together, to keep it balanced on heavy braking? The dead bushes sound like a bit of work (I canít even manage watering the bushes in the garden, to the derision of my house mates!).

    +Under car rubber parts age worn and slight cracked
    -Auto transmission fluid due contaminated needs flushing
    • Simple. So long as it still shifts OK, a new filter and fluid will breathe new life into it.
      As above, the process should be outlined in the Haynes, and the access would be under the car?

    -Exhaust system rusted
    -Shocky soft, worn, eng mounts rubber
    -Air filter needs replace
    -Noise from motor, transmission, under vehicle.
    • That narrows it down. Motor or transmission? Common causes of noise under the car in 505s are exhaust rattles, and on autos, loose dustcovers on the bell housing.
      I was thinking this might be a symptom of a dead looking passenger side engine mount. Exhaust rattles, and loose dustcovers just need tightening? Or replaces washers/fitting?

    Quote Originally Posted by Demannu View Post
    505s are very easy to keep running, especially diesels. There are no ignition system components to deal with, just the injector pump. Keep fresh fuel filters on it (every time you change the oil filter, change the fuel filter. They're cheap).

    Hard to comment on the injector pump without seeing it. If it's leaking from just one injector pipe (presumably we're talking about the pump end, not the injector end), then it could also be leaking from where the delivery valve joins the pump body. Firstly, remove the injector pipe and check the fittings. If they have been overtightened in the past, it can damage the sealing surface beyond repair. This applies for both the injector line and the delivery valve. The good news is that spares are pretty easy to find, or at worst, any good workshop should be able to bend up a replacement injector line if yours is too far gone.

    The non-starting issue could be something as simple as him not having waited long enough for the glow plugs to do their work. Or the glow plug timer could have glitched. But if it starts well every other time, I wouldn't worry about the condition of the engine internals.
    Excellent. Is there an online manual for the 505 SRDT? Iíve never had a diesel in the family before, and this was the first time Iíve seen a diesel up close from off to operating. I donít even know how to start it, apparently! There is a setting on the ignition to turn the glow plugs on, then you can start it after about 5 seconds? Wiki provides some basic info for poor old me

    Do you have advice on where to get new parts (filters and the appropriate oil etc), or second hand spares (engine mounts, injector lines, bushes)?

  8. #8
    Demannu-facturing! Demannu's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Menzies Creek
    Posts
    2,541

    Default

    Disconnecting and blocking the wastegate line only effects the boost pressure, not the amount of fuel that is injected.

    And it's the amount of fuel injected that increases combustion temperatures. That comes from adjusting the pump. This is the bit you want to be able to undo, which is easily accomplished with a 6mm socket.

    You're on the mark for starting it - turn the igntion on, then wait for the glow plug light to go out, then start it. I think it's supposed to be 7 seconds.

    Filters and consumables come from the usual places. You don't need specialist Peugeot people for that, you can get them at Repco etc.

    Second hand spares for everything except the engine are pretty much the same as petrol 505s. Certainly all the bushes etc are, and the usual supply lines will be able to help. David Cavenagh (forum sponsor) I'm sure would be able to help. Otherwise the other popular channels all mail parts in no time at all.

    Engine mounts are the same as the OHC 505s. Injector lines put up a wanted ad, or get some made at your local diesel workshop.
    Scotty

    Melbourne - Dandenong Ranges

    1956 Peugeot 403 - 'Francois' - resto project

    1969 Peugeot 504 - 'Pascal' - daily driver project

    1970 Peugeot 404 Utility - 'Brutus' - resto project

    1978 Peugeot 604 - as yet unnamed - V6 on straight LPG

    1987 Peugeot 505 - as yet unnamed - project car

    1999 Peugeot 406 Coupť - 'Chloe' - 5 speed manual

    2011 Peugeot 3008 XTE HDi - 'Zoe' - hatchback on steroids

    2014 Peugeot RCZ - 'Remy'

    1999 Range Rover 4.6 HSE - 'Grover' - tow car

  9. #9
    Fellow Frogger! FedGrapes's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Posts
    835

    Default

    Brilliant! Thanks for the help!

    That makes sense; the removed wastegate increases boost pressure, which lets you burn more fuel at higher temperatures?

    Is the glow plug light the the orange one above where the key goes into the ignition?

    Another reason I am looking at the 505 to be my transport is the shared components and engineering with the 504. Familiarity can only be a good thing!

  10. #10
    Demannu-facturing! Demannu's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Menzies Creek
    Posts
    2,541

    Default

    Close, but not quite. Adding extra fuel alone will cause combustion temperatures to go up (rich condition). You can add more fuel after you add more air, bringing the air/fuel ratio back to where it was before (lean condition).

    It's counter-intuitive if you're used to working with petrol engines, as it's all opposite. In a diesel, running rich causes high EGTs, running lean causes low EGTs.

    No, the light above the key is connected to the interior light, it's just to help you find the keyhole. In a series 1 SRDT, the glow plug light is the orange one in the left hand corner of the instrument cluster that looks like a coil.

    And yes, you're dead right about shared components. Many parts of the 505 can be used in the 504.
    Scotty

    Melbourne - Dandenong Ranges

    1956 Peugeot 403 - 'Francois' - resto project

    1969 Peugeot 504 - 'Pascal' - daily driver project

    1970 Peugeot 404 Utility - 'Brutus' - resto project

    1978 Peugeot 604 - as yet unnamed - V6 on straight LPG

    1987 Peugeot 505 - as yet unnamed - project car

    1999 Peugeot 406 Coupť - 'Chloe' - 5 speed manual

    2011 Peugeot 3008 XTE HDi - 'Zoe' - hatchback on steroids

    2014 Peugeot RCZ - 'Remy'

    1999 Range Rover 4.6 HSE - 'Grover' - tow car

  11. #11
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Linton.Victoria.
    Posts
    1,235

    Default

    Hi-sadly old 505's are not in big demand these days &,correct me if I wrong but I think that car has been for sale for some time-I also did not notice if you had stated the K's it has done,
    Also the car -to have that many jobs to do has not had the attention it should have received for some time.
    If the asking price is $1200[which is what I re-call it was] then I would be certainly be trying to give it a 'haircut' -at least that would cover some of the parts you require.
    Also the car is in W.A.
    Would look lovely with a set of G.T.I mags.

    Pekay.

  12. #12
    Fellow Frogger! FedGrapes's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Posts
    835

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Demannu View Post
    Close, but not quite. Adding extra fuel alone will cause combustion temperatures to go up (rich condition). You can add more fuel after you add more air, bringing the air/fuel ratio back to where it was before (lean condition).

    It's counter-intuitive if you're used to working with petrol engines, as it's all opposite. In a diesel, running rich causes high EGTs, running lean causes low EGTs.

    No, the light above the key is connected to the interior light, it's just to help you find the keyhole. In a series 1 SRDT, the glow plug light is the orange one in the left hand corner of the instrument cluster that looks like a coil.

    And yes, you're dead right about shared components. Many parts of the 505 can be used in the 504.
    Learning learning learning! Things make more sense to me when I have my hands on the job, but that reasoning makes sense to me.

    I'll check out the glow plug light next time, see if it can duplicate the no start when warmed up.

    Better hope i knew what i was on about with shared components; I have a bunch of 505 stuff waiting in Sydney for my LTI!


    Quote Originally Posted by pekay49 View Post
    Hi-sadly old 505's are not in big demand these days &,correct me if I wrong but I think that car has been for sale for some time-I also did not notice if you had stated the K's it has done,
    Also the car -to have that many jobs to do has not had the attention it should have received for some time.
    If the asking price is $1200[which is what I re-call it was] then I would be certainly be trying to give it a 'haircut' -at least that would cover some of the parts you require.
    Also the car is in W.A.
    Would look lovely with a set of G.T.I mags.

    Pekay.
    The KMs are up there; 394,000 and the motor was reconditioned at 300,000. I don't know what this involves, but I would guessing they get in and clean everything up, replace seals and check valves. I think this was previous to the current mechanic, so he probably didn't replace the coil or distributor. As I understand, the odo reading isn't the most accurate metric for a diesel 505?

    That is a good point in my mind; so many maintenance points... surely they didn't all pop up in the time from the last service!

    The seller mentioned he had it listed a short time ago, but wasn't ready to sell it because of not yet setting up his new car to carry his working equipment.

    The colour is actually faded, inside the vehicle you can clearly see it is a silvery green. Beautiful! Would have been a sight to behold when new!

    A car in WA is perfect for a westie like me!

    It has a metric GTI rim under the car... bugger getting rubber for that!

  13. #13
    Fellow Frogger! FedGrapes's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Posts
    835

    Default

    As a note, Pekay has pointed out in other threads that I have had some interesting ideas about improving my 504 in the past. Many of these are gone, and a more updated plan of action is coming to this blog in the near future!

    As a teaser of the write ups to come, please feel free to peruse my albums!

    504 LTI looking great!
    http://imgur.com/a/ERNfr#0

    Peugeot Bicycle (CAD and Aubisque on the frame)
    http://imgur.com/a/pSMgO

    The other half of my 504 project.
    http://imgur.com/a/bTa17#0
    Last edited by FedGrapes; 16th April 2012 at 12:49 PM.

  14. #14
    Fellow Frogger! FedGrapes's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Posts
    835

    Default

    Peugeot Aubisque



    Travelling to uni via Bus, train, and bus gets tiresome, especially when the buses run to a secret timetable different to that available to the public. As such, a bicycle was bought to improve the commute!

    I looked in the direction of somewhat older road bikes, but tried to avoid the more popular "vintage" bikes that get snapped up to be turned into "fixies" (can someone explain that to me?! What's wrong with 14 gears on a bike!?).

    A Peugeot came up, and I thought "really, it has to be a Pug, doesn't it?". I didn't get that bike, but I jumped on the next one that came up for sale!

    It isn't concours, and it came with a flat rear, and I needed a whole bunch of accessories (helmet, pump, front/rear lights, tyre repair tools); but I think fairly cheap transport all up!

    Here, with tyre ready for replacement, and accessories loaded. I don't ride with the bike lock on.



    Some extra shots can be found here.

  15. #15
    Fellow Frogger! FedGrapes's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Posts
    835

    Default

    Peugeot 505 Update

    I have contacted the seller with what I felt were the main "no go" points, and asked for some information and another viewing.

    I asked if anything was known about the wheel alignment, and said I'd like a closer look as it could be a fairly serious issue.

    I requested service records for the injector pump to see what has been done to maintain it. I said I'd like to take a closer look; this is probably a bit strange to let someone poke and pull apart your car prior to selling it. I don't want to pull it apart after buying it and discover I need a full rebuild or replacement.

    The amount of general maintenance that was required was also brought up with the intent to lower the purchase price, because it is sure to become a cost in the near future (battery, hoses, fluids, mounts).

    At this stage, I'm thinking I wont be purchasing. This saddens me a little; I was rather excited by the idea of a beautiful 505. But, I don't need a car for 6 more months, and I would like it to be cheap and reliable, not full of time bombs. Also, the aircon is an unknown factor; not good for Perth summers!

    Ball is in the seller's court; if the wheel issue is purely a poor alignment, and the injectors can be fixed with a simple seal replacement, and the price drops by a few hundred, then we will probably be back on!

  16. #16
    Fellow Frogger! FedGrapes's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Posts
    835

    Default

    July Update!

    Been a while since the last update! Working backwards...

    I have my P plates! I can drive places (legally) myself now!

    I will be taking photos when I get round to it, but if you'd like a photo of anything before that, let me know and I'll wiggle a tail feather!


    Peugeot 505

    This car went un-bought, as too many unknown factors for the price. Hopefully the eventual buyer will love it though!


    Peugeot Aubisque

    Hasn't got as much through winter... Perth has been a bit wet!

    Bought a couple of new tubes after getting a flat and not having a spare. That was a fun 5km walk home! Puncture repair kits don't help if your tube breaks at the valve stem!


    Peugeot 504 GL

    This car has found a new home with my parents; my grandmother wasn't comfortable having it taking up space. Fair call, I suppose!

    As such, my father and I have been spending some time clearing out the junk from the garage. We also are set to finish replacing the roof iron next time I'm in Sydney; It's a bit leaky after 45-50 years!

    First order of work on the car: It rolls like a square wheel, which needs to be fixed for ease of work. Is this likely to be the brakes being frozen, or a lack of lubrication in the axle areas (don't know the terms for this area yet!)?

  17. #17
    Fellow Frogger! FedGrapes's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Posts
    835

    Default

    Peugeot 504 LTI

    It's working... again! A small dent outwards in the bonnet and a new thread insert later, and she lives! Thank you to all who helped with advice, much appreciated.

    Filler: I had my first accident! After getting new tyres on the car, I neglected to check pressures. Apparently anywhere between 34psi and 38psi is where Bob Jane in Northbridge puts pressures.

    Driving along behind a Suzuki Vitara that slightly obscured the view in front, I was distracted by the car pulling to the left. We pulled up to a set of lights; however i wasn't pulling up quick enough due to not noticing the cars in front of the Vitara.

    My supervisor correctly mentioned "Shit man, slow down!". I put the brakes on, we were travelling at about 35km/h at the time, and the car immediately started to skid. Impressive brakes... but crappy grip at high inflation pressures!

    I impacted the tow bar of the Vitara at 5km/h, denting the front valance below the radiator grill. The bumper is slightly bent, and the mounts for the bumper are pushed in. The difficult part was the bottom of the towbar attached itself to my bumper! Had to jack the Vitara up to disentangle the cars. Guess I should get that straightened out sometime. Anyone know a good place in Perth? Or able to provide some basic instructions to remove it and hammer it myself?



    There are now three things on the "to do list" for the near future.

    ONE!
    The car pulls to the left. This occurred after getting a new set of tyres fitted and wheels balanced. I opted not to get a wheel alignment, due to there being no issue previous to the new tyres. How do you go about adjusting alignment? Haynes is not useful.

    TWO!
    Speedometer! It doesn't work anymore! It works in a relative sense, 100 to 120 (displayed) is still 20km/h difference, but it seems to have a higher start point (sometimes resting at 20, or any where up to 70). When the top of the dash is tapped, the speedo will be to a different starting point (usually upwards).

    Once again, Haynes does not provide useful information for removing the dash to get at the speedo cable attachment which I believe might be loose. Do I need to come in from underneath, or does the top of the dash come off for access?

    THREE!
    I'm about to overhaul the ignition, and I've just changed the leads. I have a 123 to put in, and I'm picking up a new coil and new plugs this week. Any hints or tips I need to know before pulling the old distributor out? Any hints for setting the timing properly? Haynes and 123 have some information on this, but I'm not entirely sure what it's talking about all the time.

    Should I set the 123 curve to M53 or M77? I have conflicting information pointing to both. I will be using Bosch GT40 coil, and the NGK BP6ES plugs.



    That's the immediate future! Going further forward, I think I have isolated some of the occasional no start faults and other quirks, and would like to bounce my thoughts off you!

    When I cold start, the engine doesn't always fire. I've worked out how to tease the accelerator pedal to assist this, and haven't had a problem starting for about 3 months. Hot starting is generally really nice, which the 2nd or 3rd crank doing the trick. Is it possible that the atomiser (cold start injector) has failed, or has been disconnected? I don't have a reference point for what the connections should look like.

    Sometimes when I go to start, all I get is a "Tckk". Is this a symptom of a dodgy solenoid? Or is there an issue with the actual starter?

    I have also noticed that the voltage is rather high when the car is idling; it sits at about 15-16 volts. This seems like the alternator is working well, but it is possibly going to wear out my electrics too fast. I'm lead to believe the voltage regulator is separate to the alternator; does this need work? Also, it just occurred to me it would be a good idea to fix this before installing the electronic ignition!

    In the bonnet, there is often a smell of exhaust, and idling with the bonnet open you can occasionally see a faint hint of fumes rising. Is this normal, or do I need to look at my exhaust? New gaskets perhaps? Not having a reference point makes things interesting!

    Last thing for now! When turning the car off, it will sometimes cough and splutter to a stop. I'm not too concerned about this, and can't find a reason and rhyme to it happening. Should I be worried? Is this a warning sign?

    Consider yourselves updated!

  18. #18
    Fellow Frogger! James S's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    345

    Default The GL

    Hey Blake,
    Congrats on getting your Ps!

    I'd say that the GL rolls badly because the handbrake lever on the right rear caliper sticks. On the day that it left my place on the truck I got it to release by flicking it outwards from the caliper with my finger. It's a common 504/505 problem. A caliper rebuild will fix it. ...or put the 505 brake bits on instead. WD40 isn't going to work for long. I've had the same problem on several Pugs.

    I look forward to seeing your blog posts as you keep improving both cars.

    Cheers,
    James

  19. #19
    Fellow Frogger! FedGrapes's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Posts
    835

    Default

    Hi James!

    Oh yeah... I remember that now! That was one of the biggest issues when getting it up to Sydney. Problem one solved!

    Closer inspection of my LTI reveals how much better the body on the GL is. So many small patches of rust on the LTI! Gonna be a hard slog getting it all out, especially once the paint is off and the flaws are revealed.

    I think the GL will remain that yellow... grown on me a lot!

  20. #20
    Fellow Frogger! James S's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    345

    Default The GL

    Yeah, Trak Yellow does grow on you, although I really like the LTI's blue colour also. The GL was a Canberra car all of its life I believe. Cars hardly rust here as it is typically dry.

    James

  21. #21
    Fellow Frogger! FedGrapes's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Posts
    835

    Default

    I thought I'd give this a little bump with all the recent 504 activity here!


    504 LTI

    Issue two has been solved! The needle has deteriorated, and split at the point of attachment. I have pushed it back on, and it seems to be staying.

    Thanks muchly to this thread, for providing information on instrument cluster removal!

    504 instrument cluster removal


    Any opinions, thoughts, or information on my other points?

    -Wheel alignment method (how to change, and how to test).

    -Distributor curve M53 or M77 for 2L TI?

    -Cold start injector query - Is it buggered?

    -Single tick sound when attempting to start. Solenoid buggered?

    -15v - 16v when idle. Regulator?

    -Exhaust smell under bonnet. Exhaust gasket?

    -Occasional splutter on stopping.


    504 Wagon

    Is it wrong to be considering this vehicle in Albany?!

    1981 504 wagon

  22. #22
    1000+ Posts Peter Chisholm's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    SWOTR
    Posts
    3,628

    Default

    504 Wagon

    Is it wrong to be considering this vehicle in Albany?!

    1981 504 wagon[/QUOTE]


    No, it isn't wrong. These days, 504s aren't exactly thick on the ground. I say go for it!

  23. #23
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Athens, Greece
    Posts
    299

    Default

    Ok, here are some answers, in random order

    1. Car pulling to one side: Swap the right and left tires, see if it still pulls to the same side.
    2. Best method to do the alignment: Get a pro to do it for you. Record front and rear camber and toe, front caster.
    3. Cold start injector: it is probably gone, check 504.org, technical, engine on how to check.
    4. Clicking sound: most likely the solenoid, easy and cheap to replace.
    5. Ignition curve: I would set on 53
    6. Idle voltage: Replade the regulator, if it is external it is probably located on the firewall.
    7. Exhaust odor in engine bay: Check exhaust for holes. If there aren't any it is probably a burned exaust manifold gasket. A real PITA to replace, but risky to leave unattended because of the carbon monoxide.
    8. 504 wagon: If I lived closer it would be in my home by now.

  24. #24
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    petaluma, ca
    Posts
    136

    Default

    Just to confirm what Thanos said, with regard to the high idle voltage, several auto part stores in the US will check your electrical system for free on the car and will be able to tell you if its the alternator or the voltage regulator, this may be true in OZ as well. And I agree its probably the voltage regulator which is internal (in the alternator) in newer 504 models but is still probably external (on the left side firewall) in your '76 model. Just replaced the external voltage regulator on my '74 GL which had the same symptoms (as well as wavering headlights and interior lights), problem solved. Any 12V voltage regulator will do but I got mine on-line through RockAuto, $20, super easy to install. The other route is to replace your alternator with a newer internally regulated model. This requires a little rewiring and despite much help from this website I was never able to find an used alternator that physically fit and which I could figure out electrically- you may be better at this than I, in which case the new internally regulated alternator might be a better way to go.

  25. #25
    Fellow Frogger! FedGrapes's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Posts
    835

    Default

    Excellent! Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience, Thanos and rpieper!

    Also, no thanks for the encouragement to build my fleet

Page 1 of 3 123 Last

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •