505 BA7/5 gearbox repair
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  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Default 505 BA7/5 gearbox repair

    Does anyone have any tips on making one good box from two... intermediate shaft and 5th gear synchro hub/sleeve, driving gear and driven gear out of a box with a crook front section into another which matches with worn synchro in 5th. I am not splitting the front section casing. Bearings/seals will be replaced in the intermediate /rear section and am aware to keep 5th synchro/hub sleeve relationship. Can the rear housing gate selector shaft arm be removed (looks like the "dogs" are pressed onto the shaft)? Also considering swapping over 5th/rev selector rod/levers as rev is quite sloppy (not due linkages). The Haynes book seems pretty good for this job at least.
    Cheers
    Simon

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  2. #2
    Demannu-facturing! Demannu's Avatar
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    Default

    It's very easy when you get in there. Dont be afraid to pull the front section apart, it's only a few extra bolts and there are a few little places in there were metal debris accumulates on a dead or dying box that are worth cleaning out.

    You need a 120mm (minimum) gear/bearing puller to remove the fifth gear driven side which also incorporates the output shaft bearing and speedo drive. There is a snap ring holding it on too.

    A 3mm pin punch knocks the roll pin from the 5th gear selector fork on the 5th/reverse selector shaft. Don't pull the shaft out too far, or you'll be chasing the locking ball bearing in the front section of the gearbox. Alternately, there's a 5mm allen key 'plug' in the front section that retains the ball bearing and spring, so you can remove it first to avoid losing it.

    Be careful when reassembling not to put the 5th/reverse selector ring in upside down. It fits both ways, and will test out fine on the bench, but on the road it will fall out of 5th gear when you transition from on load to off load.

    If you want to remove or replace any of the synchro rings, you will need a good press and an assortment of fittings for it. They are the same though for all BA7/5 gears and late BA7/4 gears, so with two gearboxes you generally always have enough good ones.
    Scotty

    Melbourne - Dandenong Ranges

    1956 Peugeot 403 - 'Francois' - resto project

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    1987 Peugeot 505 - as yet unnamed - project car

    1999 Peugeot 406 Coupé - 'Chloe' - 5 speed manual

    2011 Peugeot 3008 XTE HDi - 'Zoe' - hatchback on steroids

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  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Default Good advice

    Thanks Scotty,
    I noted that the 5th selector ring could be inverted by mistake, but from what I see the rings with the longer legs/mounts are towards the front side (which doesn't contact the 5th gear ). I haven't tried it yet, but it occurs to me that it might also be possible to mistakenly put the selector fork on upside down too. Traps for young (even not so young) players.
    Do you know if it's possible to pull the gate selector rod/arm out of the rear housing/ It appears pressed on...does it have a seal in the housing?
    Another query I have is which intermediate shaft is best to use, assuming all else is equal? I would be inclined to use the one which was paired with the replacement 5th synchro hub etc?

    Regards,
    Simon

  4. #4
    Demannu-facturing! Demannu's Avatar
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    So long as they fit together OK, I would use whichever intermediate shaft is in better condition. The rear bearing on them is a known weak point in these gearboxes, and when they wear out it allows movement in the splined fitting to the layshaft - which is where they eventually (catastrophically) fail. So check for wear in the splines, and use whichever one is better. The only other relative movement on the shaft is that between it and the hub, which is negligible. Make sure you keep the driving and driven fifth gears matched though.

    You cannot put the selector fork on the shaft upside down, because there is only a hole for the roll pin at the rear end.

    I'm not sure about the gate selector shaft through the rear housing - I've never tried pulling it apart. But I would say that if it's worn out here (I've never seen one worn out!), then it's done a LOT of shifting and the rest of the gearbox would be very tired. I don't believe there's a seal on it either, as both selectors are high up on the gearbox and don't tend to leak any more than a weep of oil, unlike earlier BA7/4 gearboxes with the selector shaft underneath that was notoriously leaky!
    Scotty

    Melbourne - Dandenong Ranges

    1956 Peugeot 403 - 'Francois' - resto project

    1969 Peugeot 504 - 'Pascal' - daily driver project

    1970 Peugeot 404 Utility - 'Brutus' - resto project

    1978 Peugeot 604 - as yet unnamed - V6 on straight LPG

    1987 Peugeot 505 - as yet unnamed - project car

    1999 Peugeot 406 Coupé - 'Chloe' - 5 speed manual

    2011 Peugeot 3008 XTE HDi - 'Zoe' - hatchback on steroids

    2014 Peugeot RCZ - 'Remy'

    1999 Range Rover 4.6 HSE - 'Grover' - tow car

  5. #5
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Default ok

    That's all good thanks Scotty
    I'll leave the rear housing alone, it doesn't seem to be worn; I thought there might be a seal in there that can be replaced. I'll check the splines very carefully on the inter/lay shaft joint, but the problem I have with 5th on the "good" box is the synchro, no bearing noise etc, so I'm pretty sure it's good. The one I have from the "bad" box looks good and there was no problem at all with 5th or the bearings, so I'm sure it's fine too. Now to find a puller!
    Cheers

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