307 Hdi Lower Engine mount
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  1. #1
    Tadpole seafly's Avatar
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    Icon14 307 Hdi Lower Engine mount

    Hello Folks,

    I have a 2005 Manual 307 touring 2ltr Hdi.
    It developed a "clunk-clunk" when applying the throttle on and off.
    I had the right hand (expensive) engine mount replaced a year ago, with some improvement but it has gradually got worse again also some clutch shudder!
    I decided to change the rear lower engine mount , it seemed like the most suspect
    part.
    It would be a big job according to the manual so I was a little reticent ,did a little more research and found this link : http://www.peugeotforums.com/forums/...upgrade-19900/

    I have done exactly as is shown today (parts arrived yesterday from UK ) it took two very easy hours
    WOW the car is SOOO much better!!
    I feel I should share this info and give my endorsement to the product,
    anyone interested can probably get the part from the local agent,I got mine from Ebay company called 'Awsome' they were very good ( used PayPal) took one and a half weeks.
    Hope this helps
    Nick

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  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Great advice.
    Thanks for posting the link.

    Cheers
    spiz

  3. #3
    sans witticism SLC206's Avatar
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    Interesting.

    How long have you had the car? If you've owned it from a long time ago, I'm curious about vibration with the solid mount vs the original. What was the condition of your car's original lower mount - worse than in the photos?

    Most solid mounts transmit terrible vibes to the cabin, despite their other benefits.
    Regards,

    Simon

    2018 308 GTi 2011 DS3 DSport
    ----
    2014 208 GTi 2007 207 GTi 2004 206 GTi180 2000 206 GTi 1995 306 XT

    www.peugeotclub.asn.au

  4. #4
    Tadpole seafly's Avatar
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    SLC206,

    I have owned the car for 1 1/2 years , it has done 160,000ks.

    The car suffers no vibration from the new bush, previously it was horrible!!

    I assume that when new the car would have been fine in this regard so, had I
    not come across this link I would have replaced it with a Peugeot bush.

    The old one appeared to be fine in situ so I was mystified by the 'noise'. The Peugeot Guy didn't pick it either (wanted me to replace the left mount next!).

    Anyway not having to take half the car apart appealed to me , and hence my report
    that this is a guenuinely good fix allround. Incidently it cost $55Au including the post plus 2 hours of my time.

    I think the outside 'walls' of the bush help insulate the carrier from the pivoting arm
    and the material is not massively hard. I now plan to change the drop links as I hear them more than before.

  5. #5
    Fellow Frogger
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    It seems to have solved your problem, but I think that's meant as a stabiliser bush rather than a mount. It's really only going to be as good as the small end bush of the link arm, which will become your weak link.

    What shape is the gearbox / left mount in? Is it soggy or torn? I know in some PSA cars, they can snap the stud and leave the engine/gearbox effectively floating. If that's the case, the stabiliser bushes will have a fair beating.

    Drop links can certainly wear and knock, but also check the balljoints for play as only a little bit of wear can allow them to knock.

  6. #6
    Member Hugh Venables's Avatar
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    We have a 2007 2.0 HDi auto that has done 205,000 km and occasionally tows a light caravan. The bottom mount/link was very sloppy so I was interested in this thread and bought the Powerflex mount/bush from Powerflex Australia (very helpful people). I'm not able to open any of the photos in the UK article but I think my car is very different from the description. On my car the small stiff bush (in good condition) is pressed into the bracket that is bolted to the back of the engine. The large soft bush was broken almost right through and is pressed into the rear of the link. The link is two separate steel pressings with the bush pressed through both at once to make an assembly. The large end of the link is mounted between two steel plates welded above the bottom and into the back of the subframe. Unfortunately the two plates extend forward underneath the link and have a plate welded across them, making it impossible to remove the link without removing either the subframe or the bracket from the back of the engine which of course also carries the driveshaft support bearing. I decided that the extension and welded plate was structurally redundant to the mounting plates and hacksawed it off at which point the link fell out when the engine was levered forward. A bit drastic you might say but I am quite sure it will be OK.

    The Powerflex bush can be made to fit but isn't really correct. The two halves of the link really should be welded together because the bush is in separate halves. The biggest problem is that the bush halves are too wide to fit between the subframe plates. The total width of the pair of bushes measured across the two steel washers is the same as the distance between the subframe mounting plates. The counterbore/recess on each bush is too deep and has to have 4 m.m. removed from the outside of each half. I was able to do this with a razor blade mounted vertically in a lathe which worked beautifully.

    The bush halves also have a cutout/slot in the counterbore presumably for the link on the 306 and I guess a 307 manual which controls the rotary orientation of the bush but not in my application. There were no instructions so I had to guess which way to orient it. Having fitted it I would say it works fine.

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