Changing the lower engine mount on a GTI6
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  1. #1
    Member HOT306's Avatar
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    Default Changing the lower engine mount on a GTI6

    G'day all.

    The lower engine mount on my gti6 project car has had it.

    I have a general idea of how to change it by removing the drive shaft etc.

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    Just wondering about other people's experiences, for example, methods of changing the mount and types of mounts used. Rubber, solid etc.

    Any help would be appreciated. Going to attempt it in the garage.

    Cheers.

  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger! Bluey's Avatar
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    Driveshaft out.
    Undo the long bolt that clamps the bush to the subframe then undo the 3 or 4 13mm bolts off the back of the block.
    The mount is dowelled so you have to lever the mount away from the block before you can slide it out.

    Any type of solid bush, whether it be metal, nylon, nolathane or rubber, will create huge reverberation in the cabin. There is a significant increase in vibration and interior noise.
    If you want any resemblance of a quiet drive, fit an OE style bush.

  3. #3
    1000+ Posts cam85's Avatar
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    Ill agree with the above on the OE bush. If you want an annoying drive fit a harder one. Power gets the ground better via the softer OE one anyway especially in the wet.

    Cam
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  4. #4
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    The bush can be pressed or cut out of the mount. Use the old one to press in the new one - make sure you get the angle right.

    Good luck getting the 35mm driveshaft end nut off. See Wintermute's gbox thread.

  5. #5
    Fellow Frogger! Wintermute's Avatar
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    Yes they are incredibly tight!! BTW something I haven't posted on the gearbox removal thread is that the rattle gun (and possibly the 36mm socket instead of the 35mm) did do a small amount of damage to the nuts. There were some fine "iron filings" around the hub when I'd finished. mainly off the "skirt" of the nut not off the flats. I'll post a picture later on. Perhaps tomorrow.

    I was actually wondering if I should replace the lower mount whilst I have the drive shaft out myself!! It's been a while since I last had it replaced.


    Tony.
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  6. #6
    1000+ Posts pgti6's Avatar
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    I have a couple of spare ones I don't need. One has a std OEM bush pressed in only 6 months use, the other has an AutoFive solid rubber bush.

    $80 change over for your old one.
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  7. #7
    1000+ Posts PeterT's Avatar
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    The easiest way to remove the mount is to carefully slit the outer steel ring with a hacksaw. Disregard rubber, inner etc. Then weld the ring back together with a few tacks on the inside. As the OD is now slightly smaller, it makes an ideal tool for pressing in/out the mounts.

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  8. #8
    Member HOT306's Avatar
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    Can anyone confirm whether the drive shaft end nut socket size is 35 or 36MM? Cheers!

  9. #9
    1000+ Posts PeterT's Avatar
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    35mm.

    '92 205 Mi16
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  10. #10
    Member HOT306's Avatar
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    I seem to be only able to find a 1 3/8" socket which is 35.2MM and a 36MM, but no one seems to make a 35MM

  11. #11
    sans witticism SLC206's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HOT306 View Post
    I seem to be only able to find a 1 3/8" socket which is 35.2MM and a 36MM, but no one seems to make a 35MM
    1 3/8" is 34.92mm in my book.

    This thread sounds startlingly like the other Wintermute gearbox one
    Regards,

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  12. #12
    1000+ Posts PeterT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HOT306 View Post
    ...........but no one seems to make a 35MM
    35mm. I don't have any trouble with this beastie. I should also point out that it's useless without another tool to stop the hub turning. It's mate attaches to the hub with two wheel bolts to stop rotation, whether tightening or loosening.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Changing the lower engine mount on a GTI6-35mm-socket.jpg   Changing the lower engine mount on a GTI6-hub-nut-spanners.jpg  
    Last edited by PeterT; 22nd March 2012 at 07:07 PM.

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  13. #13
    1000+ Posts cam85's Avatar
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    I removed them the other day with the car still on the ground, handbrake on. Loosened off fine. Was pretty tight though.
    98 Xantia CT
    94 205 Gti Classic #9
    92 405 Mi16
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  14. #14
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Quote Originally Posted by cam85 View Post
    I removed them the other day with the car still on the ground, handbrake on. Loosened off fine. Was pretty tight though.
    This is fine if you have removable centres on your rims. Bit tough on a gti-6

  15. #15
    Fellow Frogger! Wintermute's Avatar
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    Attached are pictures which demonstrate why you should use a 35MM socket and NOT a 36mm

    I got the 36mm because that was what size the PGTi6 forum thread on gearbox removal said the driveshaft nuts were. After Peter had let me know 35mm was the correct size, I also read another post on here by someone who had been using 36mm for years without any issue even though it wasn't the correct size so I thought I'd be ok.

    This damage is most likely caused by the looseness of the socket combined with the action of the rattle gun I used, but always get the right too for the job if you can

    I got mine undone with the wheel on the ground and handbrake on and a chock under the front wheel, BUT the S16 has removable centres on the wheels and I could get the socket on through there. If you do have to remove the wheels, then I think you will definitely need a tool like Peter's !!

    The damage is worse that I initially thought especially evident when photographed.

    Tony.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Changing the lower engine mount on a GTI6-dsc_0544.jpg   Changing the lower engine mount on a GTI6-dsc_0545.jpg   Changing the lower engine mount on a GTI6-dsc_0546.jpg  
    306 S16 1995 black
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  16. #16
    1000+ Posts PeterT's Avatar
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    If you try to undo the nuts whilst putting your foot on the brake, you will most likely shear the two pairs of M6 CSK screws which retain the brake discs. And they still won't be loose.

    '92 205 Mi16
    '90 Mi16x4

  17. #17
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Hot306 has an s16 too with removable rim centers.......

  18. #18
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    Default rattle burrs

    well i had the same issue 36mm is wobbly so 35mm is ideal.
    clearly the advice you found at the forum was debatable.
    perhaps a 36mm hex-socket fits just not a 12 point socket?
    i hold the wheel with an axle or bar on the hub under two studs
    a bar that reaches to the ground stops the wheel from turning.
    garden hose slid on a length of reo-bar protects the stud threads or put the wheel-nuts back on the studs then put the bar across.
    the workshop manuals show a fork tool that fits onto the studs.

  19. #19
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    My lazy way that has never failed me is to remove the m6 countersunk screws that peter mentions and put in all the wheel nuts tight. Then you can use the brakes to hold the hub while you undo the nut with a f-long bar.

  20. #20
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    well said and the hub-nut wrench needs a long bar for sure.
    i use the plain angle socket handle-bar with no swivel
    and i slide a one meter long piece of two-inch gal water-pipe on the end to extend the bar yonder.
    it soon does the trick to either loosen or tighten the blighters.
    a similar tool is the wooden tent-poles that come in half that are made with a metal tube on one end of the lower-half
    which is hollow for about 100mm and so fits on a socket handle-bar or fits a jack-handle also works on a big shifter or monkey wrench to make a temporary long handle.

  21. #21
    1000+ Posts PeterT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bobomacho View Post
    Then you can use the brakes to hold the hub while you undo the nut with a f-long bar.
    You must have very long arms like Mr Tickle.

    '92 205 Mi16
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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeterT View Post
    You must have very long arms like Mr Tickle.
    Hide your kids and hide your wives.

    I should have mentioned its great to have a helper to press the brakes

    Or

    Make sure there is still plenty of vac in the booster and slide adjust the seat forward pressing a bar into the brake pedal does the job.

  23. #23
    Fellow Frogger! Bluey's Avatar
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    Or you can think outside the box.
    Don't undo the driveshaft nut, instead remove the brakes & abs sensor, undo the strut, lower balljoint and tie rod from the upright and remove with the driveshaft still attached.

  24. #24
    Fellow Frogger! Wintermute's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigr3 View Post
    well i had the same issue 36mm is wobbly so 35mm is ideal.
    clearly the advice you found at the forum was debatable.
    perhaps a 36mm hex-socket fits just not a 12 point socket?
    The socket I bought was actually a hex one, not the 12 point in the image. I think the issue is the jolt that it gets each time the rattle gun engages. The rattle gun I got is not like any I've seen before, it only hits once every few seconds, quite possibly with more force than normal.

    anyway the main point was if you can get the correct size then do so If I'd known it was 35mm from the start I wouldn't have bought a 36mm

    Tony.
    306 S16 1995 black
    Morris 1100 1965 green

  25. #25
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    Default a touch too much

    for sure a good rattle gun is almost essential on these drive-shaft nuts and for trucks or four wheel drives.
    your photos make your point about the right-size memorable.

    i dread rattle-gun on the wheel-nuts when you get new tyres
    to loosen them with a measeley wheel-brace is the living end.

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