306 ECU reset procedure - is this correct?
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  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Default 306 ECU reset procedure - is this correct?

    For an N3 306 XU7JP 1.8 with the Bosch ECU, is this the correct reset procedure?

    - disconnect battery for 10 minutes
    - reconnect battery
    - turn key to 'on' position and wait 10 seconds
    - start car
    - turn fan to max, lights on, a/c on. (for maximum alternator & engine load.)
    - allow to idle until warm and fans cut in
    - take for a drive

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    Thanks
    spiz

  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger! 908HDI's Avatar
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    1] Disconnect battery for 20 minutes
    2] Reconnect Battery
    3] Turn on the Ignition
    4] Turn off the Ignition
    5] Start Engine then switch off
    6] Close the doors and lock the car with remote
    7] Unlock car with remote and start the engine
    8] Open Glove Box
    9] Pull down drivers Sun visor
    10] Push in cigar lighter
    11] Switch on radio
    12] Open Boot
    13] Walk around car three times
    14] Press horn twice
    15] Open Bonnet
    16] Flash the lights five times
    17] Pull handbrake
    18] Connect rear seatbelt to front drivers seat
    19] Remove passanger headrest

    Only kidding ! 1-7 should work.

  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger! Molerpa's Avatar
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    20- open the boot
    21- remove the weed...
    22- have a cold shower




    Quote Originally Posted by luthier View Post
    It is simply impractical to expect a petrol motor to get through too much water. That's why God invented diesels.

  4. #4
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    Default 306 ECU reset

    Quote Originally Posted by Molerpa View Post
    20- open the boot
    21- remove the weed...
    22- have a cold shower


    23- Finally a six pak of VB is highly recommended ! while pondering which Toyota model to purchase

    Alain

  5. #5
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Default 306 ECU reset

    Seriously

    The 306 1.8 8valve (XU7JP) is fitted with the Magneti Marelli 8P self learning type ECU.
    When the battery is disconnected the ECU reverts back to preprogrammed base settings and the optimum settings "learnt"are lost.

    When battery reconnected the engine may run a little flat for a while untill the ECU "relearns"the optimum settings.

    This is best achieved by taking for a 15min. run varying eng. speeds and loads concentrating in the 2500-3500 rpm range and after a while will be tuned to the condition of the input sensors etc.

    Forget all the other BS that applys to multiplexed (later) systems.

    Therefore if you want your 306 running perfectly replace the sensors .The cost will be outweighed by better fuel economy, power and driver enjoyment.

    Alain

  6. #6
    Now go make me a sandwich Hotrodelectric's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 908HDI View Post
    1] Disconnect battery for 20 minutes
    2] Reconnect Battery
    3] Turn on the Ignition
    4] Turn off the Ignition
    5] Start Engine then switch off
    6] Close the doors and lock the car with remote
    7] Unlock car with remote and start the engine
    8] Open Glove Box
    9] Pull down drivers Sun visor
    10] Push in cigar lighter
    11] Switch on radio
    12] Open Boot
    13] Walk around car three times
    14] Press horn twice
    15] Open Bonnet
    16] Flash the lights five times
    17] Pull handbrake
    18] Connect rear seatbelt to front drivers seat
    19] Remove passanger headrest

    Only kidding ! 1-7 should work.
    I simply swing a live, shaved ocelot overhead while incanting "Klaatu, Barada, Nicto!" It helps to have a funny hat. And Bactine. Lots and lots of Bactine.

    This works for the GM injection systems in streetrods, and I have the scars to prove it.....
    The measure of your character isn't what you do when people are watching- it's what you do when they aren't watching.

  7. #7
    Fellow Frogger! Molerpa's Avatar
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    You're totally right.
    In fact, I think the Hakka was inspired on the ECU reset procedure.

    Quote Originally Posted by Alain View Post
    Seriously
    I could understand that you are trying to say that we were not serious... which I disagree

    Quote Originally Posted by Alain View Post
    The 306 1.8 8valve (XU7JP) is fitted with the Magneti Marelli 8P self learning type ECU.
    When the battery is disconnected the ECU reverts back to preprogrammed base settings and the optimum settings "learnt"are lost.

    When battery reconnected the engine may run a little flat for a while untill the ECU "relearns"the optimum settings.

    This is best achieved by taking for a 15min. run varying eng. speeds and loads concentrating in the 2500-3500 rpm range and after a while will be tuned to the condition of the input sensors etc.

    Forget all the other BS that applys to multiplexed (later) systems.

    Therefore if you want your 306 running perfectly replace the sensors .The cost will be outweighed by better fuel economy, power and driver enjoyment.

    Alain
    absolutely right.


    Quote Originally Posted by luthier View Post
    It is simply impractical to expect a petrol motor to get through too much water. That's why God invented diesels.

  8. #8
    Member Ginch's Avatar
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    Default

    So there are no multiplexed 306's?

    And if I want to acheive the best fuel economy from a car which is just new to me, is it worth doing a reset? Or replacing the sensors... sounds expensive.

  9. #9
    1000+ Posts cav91's Avatar
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    whats actually wrong with it?
    2011 Renault Koleos manual petrol, yes it's boring, but not as boring as:
    2017 Renault Koleos auto

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by cav91 View Post
    whats actually wrong with it?
    The idle is erratic, sometimes high( 2500rpm!), sometimes perfect.
    David suggested trying an ECU reset first before replacing what I think could be a faulty MAP sensor.
    (The stepper motor/idle control valve is new.)

    Cheers
    spiz

  11. #11
    Fellow Frogger! Molerpa's Avatar
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    what about a diagnose, before starts changing parts, until finding which was? (after the entire car replacement)


    Quote Originally Posted by luthier View Post
    It is simply impractical to expect a petrol motor to get through too much water. That's why God invented diesels.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spiz View Post
    The idle is erratic, sometimes high( 2500rpm!), sometimes perfect.
    David suggested trying an ECU reset first before replacing what I think could be a faulty MAP sensor.
    (The stepper motor/idle control valve is new.)

    Cheers
    The erratic high idle was caused by a faulty coolant temperature sensor. (the green one.)
    Caused the mixture to be rich and hence a high idle and a blackened oxygen sensor.
    Occasionally the dash ECU light would illuminate when stopped, then go off when moving again.
    (Fault code was #31,"Mixture regulation auto-adaptation")
    spiz

  13. #13
    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
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    That's quite unusual.

    Was the failure a result of internal leakage, external stress, or were there no signs of change to the sensor?

    I like to watch the parameters from a cold start, to see injector times shorten and the coolant temperature to rise.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by addo View Post
    That's quite unusual.

    Was the failure a result of internal leakage, external stress, or were there no signs of change to the sensor?

    I like to watch the parameters from a cold start, to see injector times shorten and the coolant temperature to rise.
    The sensor looked ok, and measured ok too (when cold). I am guessing that when hot it was going resistive.
    A common problem in the uk, which is what gave me the idea.

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