306 issues - cutting out and idling high.
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  1. #1
    Member Jacqueline's Avatar
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    Default 306 issues - cutting out and idling high.

    Hi everyone,

    Before I start, the car is a 1997 Peugeot 306 n3 xt(?), auto, petrol.
    I have already posted a thread on here last year about this issue, but cannot find it now. Anyway, to make this short and sweet, I posted last year in regards to my 306's idling issue (it used to revv high when idling). I had the stepper motor replaced, yet the car still has the idling issue. Not only that, it now cuts out completely at red traffic lights/stop signs. I have had some people mention "map sensors" to me as well as "throttle position sensors", are these parts that need replacing?. Has anyone else experiences this issue with a 306? Does anybody know how to diagnose it? I've been to two sets of mechanics who claim to fix the issue both times, yet its still doing the same thing (idling high and cutting out). Does anyone have a straight answer as to what may be causing these issues with my 306??

    Thanks,
    Jacqueline

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  2. #2
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    If the sensors are going you may get an error code. Assuming your 306 is similar enough to mine, then you can tell you have an error code stored in the computer if the orange "K" light stays on for ~10 seconds (instead of ~1s) right after you start the engine.

  3. #3
    Tadpole Mr B's Avatar
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    My 306 XT manual is having the same trouble at the moment. Got worse over time, now I've gotta really give it stick so it starts.

    Mechanic told me if I was lucky it might be carbon build up in the throttle but cleaning out the throttle didn't fix it.

    I've tried cleaning out all the air/fuel hoses, replacing filters etc but so far no joy.

    If your mechanic has the diagnostic equipment that plugs into the ECU, it is possible to identify the fault but apparently the results are often misleading.

    I'm now told the fault could bve caused by the stepper motor, MAP sensor or the oxygen (lambda) sensor. I am systematically replacing these parts in order of least expensive to most expensive. Hopefully I fix it before I run out of dough!

    Probably not what you wanted to hear...

  4. #4
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    We have a 306sT 2 litre experincing the same problems - cutting out at the lights. Our mechanic said it was probably a small air line with a crack in it. Trouble is I dont know where to look!
    1998 Peugeot 406 D8SV Manual
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    1994 Peuegot 306 N3 Cabriolet Manual
    1994 Peugeot 306 XR N3 Hatch
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  5. #5
    Member Jacqueline's Avatar
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    Hey everyone,
    Thanks for your replies. The issue with my pug is really upsetting me, as I absolutely adore the car. I agree that it even though they are put on diagnostics the readings seem to be misleading, as this has happened twice now, at two different peugeot mechanics. I will write down all the suggestions everyone here has put forth and forward them onto my mechanic and hopefully we can fix my little pug. Otherwise I am forced to just sell it - In saying this, what is everyone's opinions on the 206's? Do they have the same issues as the 306? If I have to sell my little 306, I was looking into buying a 206. Any suggestions?

    Thanks again,
    Jacqueline

  6. #6
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    Hi Jacqueline. I had the same problem with my 306 many years ago. People suggested idle stepper motors etc. But the problem turned out to be a broken sensor. When that was fixed it worked perfectly. Take it to a pug specialist with Peugeot Planet software. They will be the best to diagnose it. It will probably be fine after that is replaced.

    I now own a 206 and trust me , they have their fair share of problems too. (antipollution fault anyone!) I think if you get the 306 sorted it will serve you well.

  7. #7
    Tadpole Mr B's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KK Puggy View Post
    the problem turned out to be a broken sensor.

    I got the anti olution fault (along with many other fault warnings) a bit on my old 206. Turned out nothing was wrong apart from the battery was on the way out. Luckily I had a switched on mechanic!

    I'm a big fan of the 206. I had a GTI 180. I'd get another one in a heart beat.

  8. #8
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Default 306 Idle Probs.


  9. #9
    Tadpole Mr B's Avatar
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    I figured this might help someone in the future if they are having similar issues.

    After a three week wait, today I received my new ICV from Bugaria which only cost $38, delivered. I installed the new part, reset the ECU (as per ECU reset thread - cheers guys) and my 306XT is running better than ever.

    Interesting note- the pin in the old ICV seemed to be locked protruding from the unit about 40mm, whereas the new ICV was only protruding about 10mm. Not sure if that's how you'd identify the fault, the way my car was behaving was probably a better indication of that!

    I took this course of action based on the free advice of a local mechanic whom I've never met.

    graham (or possibly grant) @ Euro City Motors in Geelong. I'm gonna take that bloke a box of beer tomorrow!

  10. #10
    Fellow Frogger! Bruce Llewellyn's Avatar
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    Default Connector pins

    Have had problems elsewhere (fans etc) with 306. Mums' car, was a 1.8 Xt auto until it boiled itself for the second time, now has an XU10 out of a 405. We did have some issues with dirty connector pins (green corrosion) on various sensors and the ECU main plug.

    Also have had a crack in one of the fuel elbows (near the brake master cylinder) and a split vacuum hose.

  11. #11
    Member Jacqueline's Avatar
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    Hi everyone,

    Thank-you for all your responses - it is good to know people want to be helpful .

    So I am going to order the throttle position sensor next week, thanks Allen for all your constant help .

    And Mr. B, by ICV, do you mean Idle Control Valve? Or something similar to this? I might give this a try as well. Did your 306 share similar issues with mine (idling high whislt stationary and stalling/cutting out at lights?). I might have to give the ICV a try as well.

    The car has been fine for the past few weeks, it has idled like mad a few times... But I can handle that. However, about 30 minutes ago, I was at a red light at a busy intersection and it decided to completely cut out - this behaviour I just can't tolerate.

    KK Puggy, do you know which sensor in particular was faulting? I want to take my pug to the peugeot specialists here in Rockhampton, but they have such a bad name around town. Maybe I should just take it there regardless.

    Also, the suspension is very sloppy and making creaking noises... Any suggestions? I've been told it may possibly need new cv's, bushes etc... The noises and sloppyness only seem to present when the car is initially taking off from a stationary position.

    Anyway, thank-you again for all of your suggestions! I apologise for not replying earlier than this, the past month has been quite a blur!

    Look forward to further responses,
    Jacqueline

  12. #12
    Member Jacqueline's Avatar
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    Hey again!

    Just on a quick note, Mr. B, I see that the Idle Control Valve is the stepper motor... I have had two different stepper motors replaced on the engine and to no avail I still have problems . I have just done some more research and have come up with the following: bad injector and cracked airline. Feedback on this would be most appreciated!!

    Thanks again,
    Jacqueline

  13. #13
    Fellow Frogger! Wintermute's Avatar
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    Hi Jaqueline, I thought I had a suspention problem with my S16 years ago. Would make nastly clunks from the front end on hard acceleration, especially if turning whilst accelerating. It turned out to shot engine mounts.

    I've been having the cutting out problem occasionally too (not the revving problem). and I've also ordered a TPS. However I think that another problem I found whilst removing things to get the gearbox out might be my issue. The O-Ring which goes between the throttle body and the inlet manifold on my car has a 25mm piece completely missing. This would be allowing air to get in that the stepper motor would not be able to compensate for with the throttle butterfly I assume.

    The cracks in the air lines would most likely be the lines that go to the MAP sensor (manifold absolute pressure). These could also have collapsed (ie the tubes suck flat).

    You may also want to read this post 306 engine stopping issue

    Tony.
    306 S16 1995 black
    Morris 1100 1965 green

  14. #14
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    Hi Jacqueline. Sorry but I dont know the name of the sensor. The thing to take home ws that they plugged the car into Peugeot planet software ( I think) and it diagnosed the problem no worries. Many mechanics I went to thought it was a stepper motor, but it wasnt. Even if the local Pug place is dodgy, if they have the right software, it should be a fairly easy fix and diagnose. Sorry I cant be more help. it was a long time ago.

  15. #15
    Fellow Frogger! racing405's Avatar
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    High idle speed can only be caused by the ECU delivering fuel and air. The ECU will also protect the engine against excessively lean combustion.

    Throttle position sensor is unlikely to be the problem. It is much more likely to be a vacuum leak, faulty O2 (lambda) sensor or stepper motor. My 306 did all this about 12 months ago, I replaced the stepper motor but had to have a second go to get the seal right. With the new unit in place, the ECU needed a reset to get the stepper motor setup right. At the same time I pulled the O2 sensor out of the exhaust and cleaned 15 years of carbon deposits off it (very carefully so as to not damage the element).

    What sort of fuel economy are you getting? Has it changed over time? What colour is your exhaust tip, black or grey?

    With the engine running, pull one injector cap off at a time and see if any one has less effect than the others. Check that none of the injector bodies are wet (fuel) which may indicate a bad 'o'ring on the injector. Pull the plugs and check that they are all about the same colour. If one is excessively white, that cylinder is running lean.

    Another thing to have a check on is your connectors. Use an electrical contact cleaner and make sure the O2 sensor and manifold air pressure sensors both have a good connection.

    Another thing you can try. With the engine cold and running, pull the throttle position plug off, the manifold air pressure sensor (or vacuum line), even the O2 sensor plug. Note what sort of effect these have on the idle.

    Vacuum leaks can be really hard to find, and don't need to be very big.

    Good luck.
    racing 405
    1:59:09 last time at Phillip Island - less than standard Mi16.

  16. #16
    Tadpole
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    Does it get worse when the vehicle is hot or cold? or is it the same regardless?

  17. #17
    Fellow Frogger! BradlehGordz's Avatar
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    I have the same problem and am unsure what it is
    It'll either idle high or idle low and stall, it doesn't do it all the time, probably 3/5 start ups.
    And when it happens, I just disconnect the ECU and start it up again and it's fine? Is this saying the ICV is on its way out?
    P-Plater

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  18. #18
    Tadpole
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    I had very similar problems with my Peugeot 306 hatchback, Phase 2, N5 Break , manual, XU7JP4(LFY), Mar 1999. For 18 months I experienced part throttle bucking, uncontrolled acceleration ("pushing"), idle rpm shooting to 3000 rpm and holding there and jerky engine behaviour almost to shutoff while coasting.

    When the engine speed sensor (CAS/CKP/CPS) finally had a total failure I replaced it and have had no problems since (@15 Dec 17). Here is the reverse chronology of what I did. While I might have disturbed an undiscovered intermittant wiring issue when replacing the CAS I am pretty confident the CAS was the root cause of the problems. I expect the CAS has a partial failure mode that provides dodgy engine speed data to the ECU. When the CAS fails completely you inadvertently fix the mystery cause by replacement.


    20 Oct 17 Crankshaft Engine Speed Sensor (CAS/CKP/CPS) replaced with new Peugeot #1920W9 from LCSlouth Ebay UK

    09 Oct 17 - ECU connector removed to inspect contacts – all good. ECU reset

    13 Aug 17 - re-terminated body earth at gearbox
    -replaced engine air temperature sensor (resistance measured OK both before and after)

    16 Sep 16 - replaced engine thermostat

    07 Sep 16 -throttle body cleaned and O rings coated with Three-Bond to assist sealing
    - fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose replaced (all just in case as all looked fine)
    - MAP sensor replaced (Bosch 0 261 230 057)
    - Cam cover seals replaced
    - Inlet manifold to cyl head seals replaced (x4 genuine Peugeot)

    10 Jun 16 -replaced ECU Coolant Sensor (Febi 18991)

    14 May 16 - replaced throttle position sensor (Bosch 0 280 122 003)

    27 Apr 16 - replaced ICV (Delphi xxx Peugeot 1920V7) and ECU reset
    Last edited by fj20det; 15th December 2017 at 11:43 AM.

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