405 electric windows
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  1. #1
    1000+ Posts cav91's Avatar
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    Default 405 electric windows

    G'day all,

    Just a question the LHF electric window in my series one mi16 is really, really slow (when it works) I've tried changing switches, but had no luck. I've silicon sprayed the seals and tracks and still no luck. My next thought is there apears to be current drop going to the window motor. (the only way I could test this was to run speaker wire straight from the battery, because I forgot my multi meter. Once doing this it was as fast as my series 2). Anyway the question is how do you wire a relay up to it? I first thought I could just cut in the wire that makes is go up (at the motor) and put the relay there. And it worked the window went up nice and fast, but wouldn't go down. So I put another 4 pin relay on the other wire, it then did nothing!
    How do I do this, preferably on the motor side of the switch as I think the switches aren't doing so well?

    Thanks Chris

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  2. #2
    Now go make me a sandwich Hotrodelectric's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cav91 View Post
    G'day all,

    Just a question the LHF electric window in my series one mi16 is really, really slow (when it works) I've tried changing switches, but had no luck. I've silicon sprayed the seals and tracks and still no luck. My next thought is there apears to be current drop going to the window motor. (the only way I could test this was to run speaker wire straight from the battery, because I forgot my multi meter. Once doing this it was as fast as my series 2). Anyway the question is how do you wire a relay up to it? I first thought I could just cut in the wire that makes is go up (at the motor) and put the relay there. And it worked the window went up nice and fast, but wouldn't go down. So I put another 4 pin relay on the other wire, it then did nothing!
    How do I do this, preferably on the motor side of the switch as I think the switches aren't doing so well?

    Thanks Chris
    Hi Chris. Go get something cold to drink, this is going to take a few minutes to explain. I'll wait.

    You're back? Good. The first thing you should check is if the wiring in the door jamb boot is breaking. This causes the current to flow not as well, causing your volt drop. Are you slow up and down, or one direction only? Is the window loose in the track or the felts? Can you rock it back and forth? Have you done any work under dash or in the console? A bad ground can very easily cause you your heatburn.

    OK. Assuming the mechanical portion is OK, and tearing the door and half of the interior apart doesn't appeal to you, you can add a pair of relays to get the action you desire. Here is what you do:

    1) Pull the switch for the door. By now, you've noted that there are 5 terminals on that switch. There are two you need to disconnect from the connector. I do mean disconnect- cutting them is a pain to redo if you ever want to trace the problem back, and it's easy anyway- a flat bladed jewellers screwdriver and a few seconds of gentle prying. IIRC, the lock tabs are folded over the connector. In any event, pull the two grounds. Positions 2 and 4, I think. A quick stab with a multimeter will confirm this. Now, the switch is a single pole, dual throw momentary switch. Power in, power out.
    2) Go to your affected door. Pull the door card and the vapor barrier. Find the conector for the motor. Unfortunately, you may have to cut this one. You will need both ends, motor half and door half. You can add wire if you need to. Hopefully, you can undo that connector just like the door switch. For your relays, you will need a pair of the 5-pin Bosch 'ice cube' style relays. Whatever brand you get, make sure the output pins are marked 87 and 87a, not 87 and 87- don't ask how I know.
    3) Wire up your relays thustly: The two wires coming from the door harness, one each to 86 on either relay. 85 on both relays go to ground. 87a- NOT 87!!- also goes to ground for both. 87 on each relay goes to the battery feed. 30 is your motor hookup for both. Use either fully insulated terminals, or shrink tubing to prevent shorting.

    A 20A fuse for the battery feed is a good idea.

    Wire sizes are also pretty easy- you can leave the wire from the door in as it is. Pretty much just wire everything else in 14 ga (2.0mm). You only need one battery in coming into the door, and just split it at the relays. You also need just one ground split at the relays, and just groundpoint it at the kickpanel.

    Turn on your ignition, and the electrical portion should now be working smooth as silk.
    Last edited by Hotrodelectric; 27th February 2012 at 09:46 AM. Reason: correct stupid error
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  3. #3
    1000+ Posts cav91's Avatar
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    Thanks very much, I printed that out and I'll give it a go tomorrow!
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  4. #4
    Now go make me a sandwich Hotrodelectric's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cav91 View Post
    Thanks very much, I printed that out and I'll give it a go tomorrow!
    Hi Chris- I've PM'd you, please read before proceeding!

    Swap 87 for 30 on the relay hookup.
    The measure of your character isn't what you do when people are watching- it's what you do when they aren't watching.

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