306 Phase 1 central locking woes
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  1. #1
    Tadpole
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    Default 306 Phase 1 central locking woes

    Hi to all,
    Okay I have a 1995 306 xt, had it for about 8months now but only just started working on it due to uni and family taking up all my time! So she's been sitting in the driveway feeling unloved. Just been slowly fixing the issues it has. Currently fixing the last issue it has before I rego it, hopefully no more show their ugly head.

    On to the issue!

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    So basically the central locking is not working. If I lock the drivers door (the plip button is busted so I'm using the key) it locks and unlocks. Now if I goto the passenger door and lock it, all is fine. So I went inside the car and locked it using the switch on the drivers door, same deal, locks and unlocks. Did the same with the passenger door and all was well. So I did it again with the drivers door and noticed the passenger doors solenoid isn't firing, it just sits there, had a listen and can't hear it firing. I do remember it would lock fine every now and then, this is going back a while though.

    So I did a bit of snooping on the net and read it was most likely the loom going through the jamb having a broken wire, tore all that out and checked them, no breaks in the wires. Then pulled the door card off and did a continuity test from the solenoid plug to the door jamb plug and everything was fine. Figured I'd test the solenoid plug to the control box under the rear and it was all fine aswel. So it doesn't seem to be a broken wire issue unless I'm overlooking something. I've tried cleaning the plugs and pins but it hasn't made any difference.

    At this point everything seems to be pointing to a solenoid issue. Is there a way I can test the solenoid to see if it fires? I don't know which pins on it to connect with 12V to activate it, and I don't want to do trial and error incase I fry something. Any other suggestions on what to check or how to fix it are welcome

    On the topic of central locking, next to the control box is a random plug with 2 wires sitting there, can't seem to find the other plug end for it. The wire numbering is 6540 and M650, had a look through the diagrams and can't seem to find it in there, any ideas?

    Sorry for the long post, better to be detailed then not detailed enough

    -Cheers

  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger! trihardthlete's Avatar
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    Default

    Have the exact same problem with my 306 1999 GTi6, Have bought an aftermarket system to try and rectify the problems that are so rife with this model. Unfortunately haven't had the time to have someone install it yet. Here's hoping it may fix the problem.

    Let us know how you go, this is my second 306 and the only real problem I have had with either of them has been the central locking.

  3. #3
    Tadpole
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    Yeah same here, besides fixing the dodgey wiring done by the previous owner, the only thing wrong with it electrical wise is the central locking.

    I figured out what pin does what last night looking at the wiring diagram. If you connect the multimeter to pin 4 and pin 2 (ground) on the control box under the seat, and use the central locking, the multimeter will pulse to about 11.5V. Tested it at the solenoid plug and sure enough, it spiked to 11.5ish. clipped some wires onto pins 2 and 7 on the solenoid and connected it to 12V. Nothing, zip, nada. Looks like the solenoid is dead. Looking at the wiring diagram pins 2&7 are what power the solenoid, so by rights doing that should have fired it, since nothing else in the door directly interacts with the solenoid, its all handled by the control box.

    Oh well looks like I'm adding something else shopping list for parts that I need.

    trihardthlete have you checked the loom in the door jamb for any breaks?

  4. #4
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Default 306 electrics/

    Hi,
    can you help me with fuel pump relay location ,where is it on the early cars,94?

    Fuel pump stopped and the pump works if hot wired.

    Berridale

  5. #5
    Tadpole
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    I think its where the battery is, behind the battery box where the ecu is, it should be on the back of that. I'll double check in the morning

  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Hi,

    my one is a 1994XR , i have checked there the ECU plug was not pushed in properly ,so then the injection/spark was restored to working when i found the problem.
    No relay in the box in front of the battery box .
    The Haynes manual give no details on the locations of the relay.
    You can't work this out from the wiring diagram.

    By the fuses are about 6 relays.
    I didn't get a handbook with the car, getting an early one from the UK ,all i can do?

    Thanks for looking .
    Berridale

  7. #7
    Fellow Frogger! BradlehGordz's Avatar
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    Most common problems for a 306 is a breakage in the drivers side wiring loom at the door under the hinge, have you checked to see if any of these are broken? Can also result in power windows and factory speakers not working as these wires pass through there as well for future reference! (:
    Brad
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    Obsession for le Peugeot!

    Current:
    '98 306GTi6 + Bianca white+ Sun roof.

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  8. #8
    Fellow Frogger! BradlehGordz's Avatar
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    Here is a guide for you (:
    Helped me!
    http://www.peugeotlogic.com/workshop/base/workshop.htm
    P-Plater

    Obsession for le Peugeot!

    Current:
    '98 306GTi6 + Bianca white+ Sun roof.

    Previous:
    '99 306Style

    I live for the 6!

  9. #9
    Tadpole
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    On the back of the ECU box towards the cabin firewall should be a small brown rectangular box about twice the size of a normal relay with a a tonne of wires coming out of it , that should be the fuel relay.

    BradlehGordz - Yeah i've checked the loom going through the door, its not damaged at all, I'm getting 12V at the central locking plug, so it looks like a dead solenoid cheers though

  10. #10
    Fellow Frogger!
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    The Haynes manual indicates the relay by the ECU is for the injection,diag13-#104

    but there is an item called battery+ve control unit #15, from which the fuel pump is powered.
    *Power from the ECU relay doesn't activate the fuel pump.

  11. #11
    Tadpole
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    If you goto WD13, 106 is the fuel pump, 121 travel to the battery +ve control unit like you said goes into F35(a fuse) the heads back out on wire 122. Joins up with another 122 wire and becomes 120, then travels to pin 6 on 104 which is the injector relay.

    Have you checked the F35 and F36 fuse? it should be to the right of the battery under 2 plastic covers next to about 6 relays if its like my xt

    That's the only relay I can see that directly affects the fuel pump.

  12. #12
    Fellow Frogger!
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    on wire 122. Joins up with another 122 wire and becomes 120, then travels to pin 6 on 104 which is the injector relay.

    Q. Have you checked the F35 and F36 fuse? it should be to the right of the battery under 2 plastic covers next to about 6 relays if its like my xt

    A. I checked these fuses in the box, all good.
    No relays in the box by the battery.

    My relays are situated below right of the steering with the main fuse block.

    Do you have a diagram for fuse functions?

    I had hoped it would be just a fuse but not the case.

  13. #13
    Tadpole
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    F35 is the fuel pump and F36 is the oxygen sensor. I do have a wiring diagram for the fuse functions but its in the haynes manual, and I'm not sure how the mods go about with posting pages and stuff.

    In my xt I have 2 relay boxes, one in the cabin where the main fuse block is and one next to the battery and the guard. I'm not familiar with peugeots enough to be able to say where this and that is on various models sorry

  14. #14
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Do either of you a handbook with the fuse/relay lay-out ?
    Perhaps you could scan what you have and send it PM,please?

    I have a handbook coming from the UK for a 1.8XR.
    Also steering ram leaks....... anyone rebuilt the ram to stop the leak?


    Cheers
    Berridale

  15. #15
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    I have a spare drivers side central locking solenoid - if thats what's needed in the end. I bought it for my daughter's car, but the problem turned out to be the wiring loom - as usual!

    One has to check the number of contacts on the plug to make sure they are compatible, before replacing it. Fiddly job, removing and refitting the solenoid, though.
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  16. #16
    Tadpole
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    Yeah it definitely is a fiddly job! I tested it while in the car, no way I was going to take it out to test it.

    How much are you chasing for it pugnut? The ones in mine are the older style with 9 pins (bank of 4 and a bank of 5)

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