406 HDi timing belt - DIYable?
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  1. #1
    Gus
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    Default 406 HDi timing belt - DIYable?

    My 406 HDi is getting close to its 240,000km service date, which I believe means it's time for a timing belt change.

    I've done timing belts in other cars before without hassle, although always (EDIT) rearwheel drive. Haynes says this one needs an electronic tensioner checker. No pinch & twist here!

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    * Does anyone have experience in changing these themselves? Do you really need the electronic tensioner gauge?

    * Any other gotchas? Is it a horrible job? The space is pretty cramped, but I did the serpentine accessory belt a few months ago and that went pretty smoothly...

    * Anything else I should replace at the same time? Are the water pump and/or the bottom crank pulley likely suspects?

    * If I give up on my DIY ethos and pay someone to do it, what should I expect to pay?


    Thanks everyone.
    Last edited by Gus; 12th February 2012 at 10:51 PM.

  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger! sfrawley's Avatar
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    I paid $750 (of which $295 was labour) a month ago to have it done by an independent Pug mechanic in Adelaide. He also replaced the water pump, tensioner and idler which is apparently normal when changing the belt.
    Stephen
    '03 P406 HDI
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  3. #3
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    The 205 and 405 manuals also say to use an electronic tension tester unit although apparently no ones seen them before.
    Lets just say we have a few pugs about!

  4. #4
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    I have the technical video here where they show you how to do a belt change. The tensioner is really easy to use. Shown with the engine bolted to an engine stand out of the car

    There's not a hope in hell anyone would be able to use on with the motor still in the bloody car!

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  5. #5
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    I used a hydraulic tension guage on mine and seems okay. I changed it at 120,000 miles and again at 205,000 miles. This is on an 806 but it's the same engine

  6. #6
    Gus
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    Thanks everyone.

    dieselnutjob - is the gauge you used something like this?

  7. #7
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    Mine is a Sykes Pickavant 31660000

  8. #8
    Fellow Frogger! stew's Avatar
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    Ooooooh. Don't!
    Many perils await and great expense if done in error!
    It is almost physically immpossible to do without a hoist.

  9. #9
    Budding Architect ???? pugrambo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stew View Post
    Ooooooh. Don't!
    Many perils await and great expense if done in error!
    It is almost physically immpossible to do without a hoist.
    is the HDi that much different ??
    3 x '78 604 SL

    1 x '98 306 GTi6

    1 x secret project

    1 x '98 406 STDT troop carrier and i don't care if it stinks, i don't sniff it's arse Death by wank tank

    1 x '99 406SV 5spd wagon, time to burn more fuel

    1 x 1994 605 SV3.0


    WTD long range fuel tank for 605

  10. #10
    Fellow Frogger! stew's Avatar
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    From what?

  11. #11
    Budding Architect ???? pugrambo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stew View Post
    From what?
    that's what i am asking due to you stating near impossible without a hoist comment
    3 x '78 604 SL

    1 x '98 306 GTi6

    1 x secret project

    1 x '98 406 STDT troop carrier and i don't care if it stinks, i don't sniff it's arse Death by wank tank

    1 x '99 406SV 5spd wagon, time to burn more fuel

    1 x 1994 605 SV3.0


    WTD long range fuel tank for 605

  12. #12
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    I've done my 406 petrol 3 times and just guessed the tension. Haven't had a problem. It is essential to replace water pump and idler bearing and while you are in there check the seals on crank and camshaft. If they aren't leaking leave them alone. All the bits from Caravelle cost about $320 I think, but I can't quite remember, it may have been less. Water pump is very cheap at round $70. It's not a really terrible job if you are familiar with timing belts.
    I just did one on a V6 Toyota which wasn't too bad, but the Pug was easier.
    I think it's about a 5 hour job according to the mechanic's book.

  13. #13
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    I didn't use a hoist and the 806 is a hard vehicle to work on because the engine is underneath the dashboard / windscreen. An engine mount has to come off but I just used a trolley jack under the engine with some padding, and luggage straps to stop it moving backwards or forwards.

    You are supposed to remove the exhaust downpipe to prevent it being damaged if the engine moves but if the engine is strapped up enough this isn't going to happen. If it really bothers you you could just disconnect the downpipe from the rest of the exhaust and remove the two rubber hangers so that if the engine does move the downpipe will just move with it.

    The actual belt is a little fiddly and crank pulleys are always tough to undo but that's not unique to the HDI. If you are used to doing belts then this isn't too hard but it might not be a good one to do if it's your first.

  14. #14
    Fellow Frogger! stew's Avatar
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    It's just so difficult to get at covers and things on axle stands. When you try it that way there is big risks of getting the valve timing wrog. Even when we pin the cogs there is always some play between pin and cog, you see. Sometimes to get the things spot on, once you turn the engine by hand the belt has seated in and the cam timing is out a bit. Some engines have a pin in the back of the engine above the drivers axle that has to go into the flywheel. That is hard enough. Some of them have a loose crank cog when the balancer is loosened, that allows setting the cam dead with the crank. That's all. Just can be difficult.
    Some have a pin through the balancer, take off the balancer and the engine crank is not pinned.

  15. #15
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    Default Just mark everthing with an ink pen[white]

    Mark the old belt to the sprockets mark which one is cam ,. Mark the flywheel to the engine block[take small cover off bottom of bellhousing ] ,mark the cam to the head ,take the old belt off carfully transfer the marks to the new belt ,re assemble with all the marks ligning up .like before . Check the old belts twistability before you do anything on the longest run ,give it same or a tad less on the new belt ,iv done an srdi and an306 hdi ,also an mi16 ,the hdi is the easiest by far ,pugs ,turn it over at least twice with a socket on the crank bolt to make sure nothing is goint to bang into anything when you hit the key !!!!

  16. #16
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    Im with Pugwash on this . I did my 405 SRDT the same way . Mark the belt and pulleys.Transfer the marks to the new one and carefully put the belt on etc. Follow the Pugwash system. Not easy but doable.
    Regards Dennis.

  17. #17
    Budding Architect ???? pugrambo's Avatar
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    i have never had trouble

    axle stands and an engine crane and it's all very simple

    stick a pin in under the starter for the flywheel, one on the pump and the other on the cam and away you go

    sitting down in the wheel arch doing the bottom half is very calming
    3 x '78 604 SL

    1 x '98 306 GTi6

    1 x secret project

    1 x '98 406 STDT troop carrier and i don't care if it stinks, i don't sniff it's arse Death by wank tank

    1 x '99 406SV 5spd wagon, time to burn more fuel

    1 x 1994 605 SV3.0


    WTD long range fuel tank for 605

  18. #18
    Fellow Frogger! stew's Avatar
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    Goodluck.

  19. #19
    Budding Architect ???? pugrambo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stew View Post
    Goodluck.
    ???
    3 x '78 604 SL

    1 x '98 306 GTi6

    1 x secret project

    1 x '98 406 STDT troop carrier and i don't care if it stinks, i don't sniff it's arse Death by wank tank

    1 x '99 406SV 5spd wagon, time to burn more fuel

    1 x 1994 605 SV3.0


    WTD long range fuel tank for 605

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