Overheating!
  • Register
  • Help
Results 1 to 22 of 22

Thread: Overheating!

  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! bass_twitch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    157

    Default Overheating!

    Hi all
    My bros mi16 had new issues today, it's decided it has wanted to overheat (don't blame it, it's bloody hot!)
    Just wanted to put a quick check to see if there is any part of the heating system that commonly goes on these beasts? I.e. a good place to start?

    Advertisement

  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    265

    Default

    Check coolant level and quality, thermostat operation and radiator cap is a good place to start.

    Gil

  3. #3
    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    loneliness capital of the world
    Posts
    9,051

    Default

    Check the low level coolant sender works properly. These cars usually leak somewhere (especially when they're old) and the low coolant sender comes in handy. If you top up it is no problem, but if the sender doesn't work, you might find out when it's too late.

    The heater core matrix is one common problem with leaking (and a bastard to replace). It is very difficult to diagnose, as leaks evaporate before they drip on your carpet, or drip under the console and soak in the carpet there, and before it spreads all the way through the carpet to your feet, it's too late. Sometimes you can put the fan on and it'll blow that hot coolant smell in your face (that's a sure sign the heater matrix is gone).

    The radiator itself can leak where the plastic ends are crimped to the core and you might not see it.

    If coolant level is okay and there are no air traps in the system (check, bleed correctly) then yes, check thermostat, etc.

    The problem is that these cars work fine in our hot climate as long as you keep an eye on them, but if you slip in maintenance, they can start misbehaving quite quickly.
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

    Das computermachine is nicht fur gefingerpoken und mittengrabben. Ist easy schnappen der springenwerk, blowenfusen und poppencorken mit spitssparken. Ist nicht fur gewerken bei das dummkopfen. Das rubbernecken sightseeren keepen hands in das pockets-relaxen und watch das blinkenlights.

  4. #4
    the famous 18E pug206gti's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    lost
    Posts
    11,055

    Icon6

    Quote Originally Posted by bass_twitch View Post
    Hi all
    My bros mi16 had new issues today, it's decided it has wanted to overheat (don't blame it, it's bloody hot!)

    G'day,
    yep, looks like Summer has arrived. Time for

    Come to the BBQ, lots of hands on experts.
    regards,
    Les W.


    206 GTi 180
    the stealth Pug
    Did I do anything last night that suggested I was sane?








  5. #5
    Fellow Frogger! AndS16's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Newcastle
    Posts
    158

    Default

    The fans kicking in?

    Good luck
    Andrew

  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger! bass_twitch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    157

    Default

    Thanks guys! got lots to look for now,
    My brother and I are going to have a good look at it tomorrow morning. Hopefully get some answers

  7. #7
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    HOBART
    Posts
    1,265

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bass_twitch View Post
    Thanks guys! got lots to look for now,
    My brother and I are going to have a good look at it tomorrow morning. Hopefully get some answers
    Lucky you guys aren't in Melbourne! Hope it's much cooler tomorrow
    1998 Peugeot 406 D8SV Manual
    1999 Peugeot 406 D8ST Auto
    2002 Peugeot 406 D9SV Manual
    1994 Peuegot 306 N3 Cabriolet Manual
    1994 Peugeot 306 XR N3 Hatch
    1995 Peugeot 505 GTI executive
    1976 Peugeot 504 Sedan - Now sold

    Over 60 Pugs in my time
    Gerry Mullock

  8. #8
    1000+ Posts djvu205's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    3550
    Posts
    1,402

    Default

    i just had the radiator on my 205 cleaned out by a radiator place. he said that the bottom 1/3 of the radiator was almost completely blocked and the tanks were ready to split at the seams.

    i think it costs around $130 to have it cleaned and tested so i was told but mine may be slightly more as he took both tanks of it.

    the radiator might be a good place to start? mine looked fine when i flashed the torch around in it but it clearly wasnt.

  9. #9
    1000+ Posts cav91's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Romsey, VIC
    Posts
    2,337

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by schlitzaugen View Post
    Check the low level coolant sender works properly. These cars usually leak somewhere (especially when they're old) and the low coolant sender comes in handy. If you top up it is no problem, but if the sender doesn't work, you might find out when it's too late.

    The heater core matrix is one common problem with leaking (and a bastard to replace). It is very difficult to diagnose, as leaks evaporate before they drip on your carpet, or drip under the console and soak in the carpet there, and before it spreads all the way through the carpet to your feet, it's too late. Sometimes you can put the fan on and it'll blow that hot coolant smell in your face (that's a sure sign the heater matrix is gone).

    The radiator itself can leak where the plastic ends are crimped to the core and you might not see it.

    If coolant level is okay and there are no air traps in the system (check, bleed correctly) then yes, check thermostat, etc.

    The problem is that these cars work fine in our hot climate as long as you keep an eye on them, but if you slip in maintenance, they can start misbehaving quite quickly.
    Are you kidding. I've had 3 mi16's now and they have never used a drop of water. My red one gets treated like rubbish and still doesn't leak. What do you do wrong?
    Took the series 2 down to the beach over the last few days, (40 ish degrees) and the temp only just went over 90 degrees.

    Anyway as for the original question my old fuego used some water and I had no idea where from so I put a bottle of nulux (I think thats the brand) stop leak in it (don't use the ones that have rocks in them) and it was great again! Give that a go.
    2011 Renault Koleos manual petrol, yes it's boring, but not as boring as:
    2017 Renault Koleos auto

  10. #10
    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    loneliness capital of the world
    Posts
    9,051

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by cav91 View Post
    Are you kidding. I've had 3 mi16's now and they have never used a drop of water.
    Nor did mine, but that's because I use coolant.

    The fact that yours didn't leak (or appeared not to) does not demonstrate anything. The fact that mine did, demonstrates that they can. As I said, leaks are difficult to find and the only obvious sign is that your coolant level drops to the point that the warning light comes on. My car is actually a very low km example and never driven outside the city. Still had to have both the radiator and the heater matrix replaced soon after I bought it. There were no other signs other than coolant level drop. Once removed, the heater core showed signs of leaks where the core is clamped to the plastic headers, and the radiator leaked when pressure tested.

    Perhaps you never tested yours, or never kept a car long enough to notice it leaks or perhaps your coolant level doesn't work.

    Like I said. First test, then with some data you know what you're talking about.
    Last edited by schlitzaugen; 4th January 2012 at 12:27 PM.
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

    Das computermachine is nicht fur gefingerpoken und mittengrabben. Ist easy schnappen der springenwerk, blowenfusen und poppencorken mit spitssparken. Ist nicht fur gewerken bei das dummkopfen. Das rubbernecken sightseeren keepen hands in das pockets-relaxen und watch das blinkenlights.

  11. #11
    1000+ Posts jo proffi's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    8,433

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by djvu205 View Post
    i just had the radiator on my 205 cleaned out by a radiator place. he said that the bottom 1/3 of the radiator was almost completely blocked and the tanks were ready to split at the seams.

    i think it costs around $130 to have it cleaned and tested so i was told but mine may be slightly more as he took both tanks of it.

    the radiator might be a good place to start? mine looked fine when i flashed the torch around in it but it clearly wasnt.
    Ouch.
    For about $200, you can buy a new one.

    I dont think there is any merit in fixing an old radiator these days with the cost of new stock so cheap.
    In fact you can easily spend more on one tyre than you can spend on a new radiator.

    You wouldn't send your old tyre back to be re treaded (actually some froggers probably would) and I continually wonder why people do it with a radiator on a common car where new stock is still available.

    Jo.

  12. #12
    1000+ Posts cav91's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Romsey, VIC
    Posts
    2,337

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by schlitzaugen View Post
    Nor did mine, but that's because I use coolant.

    The fact that yours didn't leak (or appeared not to) does not demonstrate anything. The fact that mine did, demonstrates that they can. As I said, leaks are difficult to find and the only obvious sign is that your coolant level drops to the point that the warning light comes on. My car is actually a very low km example and never driven outside the city. Still had to have both the radiator and the heater matrix replaced soon after I bought it. There were no other signs other than coolant level drop. Once removed, the heater core showed signs of leaks where the core is clamped to the plastic headers, and the radiator leaked when pressure tested.

    Perhaps you never tested yours, or never kept a car long enough to notice it leaks or perhaps your coolant level doesn't work.

    Like I said. First test, then with some data you know what you're talking about.
    Not kept the car long enough? The one with 510,000 kms on it was owned by my mum since around 250,000. (still not long enough?) Then I got it. And still it didn't use coolant. Yes admitedly it did go through 1 radiator in that time but thats it.

    Im sure the best way to check for leaks is too look at how much coolant it has in the radiator regulary. If its dropped and you need to top it up, it leaks simple.
    2011 Renault Koleos manual petrol, yes it's boring, but not as boring as:
    2017 Renault Koleos auto

  13. #13
    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    loneliness capital of the world
    Posts
    9,051

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jo proffi View Post
    Ouch.
    For about $200, you can buy a new one.

    I dont think there is any merit in fixing an old radiator these days with the cost of new stock so cheap.
    In fact you can easily spend more on one tyre than you can spend on a new radiator.

    You wouldn't send your old tyre back to be re treaded (actually some froggers probably would) and I continually wonder why people do it with a radiator on a common car where new stock is still available.

    Jo.
    One reason is that old radiators are brass and new stock is aluminium with clamped plastic reservoirs. Can't be fixed once they go, whereas an old brass thing can always be soldered. I repaired my 205GTi radiator for this exact reason, even though I have a brand new plastic/aluminium one in reserve. If i could buy a new brass radiator, I would chuck out the old one, of course.
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

    Das computermachine is nicht fur gefingerpoken und mittengrabben. Ist easy schnappen der springenwerk, blowenfusen und poppencorken mit spitssparken. Ist nicht fur gewerken bei das dummkopfen. Das rubbernecken sightseeren keepen hands in das pockets-relaxen und watch das blinkenlights.

  14. #14
    1000+ Posts jo proffi's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    8,433

    Default

    Once they start to leak ,schlitz, its time for a new radiator, regardless of what it was made from.


    I just cant see a patched up old copper radiator being as efficient as a modern brand new alloy radiator.

    Sure, the alloy ones are not worth repairing when the end tanks leak, but so what, just replace it when that time comes.


    Jo

  15. #15
    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    loneliness capital of the world
    Posts
    9,051

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jo proffi View Post
    Once they start to leak ,schlitz, its time for a new radiator, regardless of what it was made from.


    I just cant see a patched up old copper radiator being as efficient as a modern brand new alloy radiator.

    Sure, the alloy ones are not worth repairing when the end tanks leak, but so what, just replace it when that time comes.


    Jo
    My point is that a brass radiator can be forever repaired whereas an aluminium one can't, and when they don't make them anymore, you're stuck. The new aluminium ones have been quite duds with my cars, so I am sticking to old skool for now if I have a choice.
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

    Das computermachine is nicht fur gefingerpoken und mittengrabben. Ist easy schnappen der springenwerk, blowenfusen und poppencorken mit spitssparken. Ist nicht fur gewerken bei das dummkopfen. Das rubbernecken sightseeren keepen hands in das pockets-relaxen und watch das blinkenlights.

  16. #16
    1000+ Posts djvu205's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    3550
    Posts
    1,402

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jo proffi View Post
    Ouch.
    For about $200, you can buy a new one.

    I dont think there is any merit in fixing an old radiator these days with the cost of new stock so cheap.
    In fact you can easily spend more on one tyre than you can spend on a new radiator.

    You wouldn't send your old tyre back to be re treaded (actually some froggers probably would) and I continually wonder why people do it with a radiator on a common car where new stock is still available.

    Jo.
    from what im told the new ones dont fit to good! mine was an original peugeot one that had some life left in it so i decided to have it cleaned up to get me buy, actually in the end it only cost $126.50 it keeps the local bloke in a job, and i must say he did a great job, and im still $73.50 better off, touch wood.

    also the new ones tend to lack a bit of quality. rows and FPI can be very different. the other thing i dont like it a radiator that is partially made of plastic, sorry it just dont work for me. i would sooner have a copper one any day. each to there own. at the end of the day if you buy a new one or have your old one fixed it doesnt really matter, just make sure your radiator is in good condition and not blocked.

    just for interests sake Jo where do you buy the $200 radiators, others may be keen on them? seems like a good price.
    Last edited by djvu205; 4th January 2012 at 10:09 PM.

  17. #17
    1000+ Posts jo proffi's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    8,433

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by djvu205 View Post
    ...... and it keeps the local bloke in a job, and i must say he did a great job.
    and im still $73.50 better off.


    just for interests sake Jo where do you buy the $200 rads, others may be keen on them? seems like a good price
    Yes good point about the local job. I did think about that myself today, as I sometimes use radiator guys for custom fabrications.


    ebay is a good start for anything replaceable.

    The $200 price came from a quick look at an english supplier on ebay.

    For my car it was only $130 for an OE radiator, as an aussie supplier was clearing stock. Bargain!!!

    Dont worry about plastic. I bet your heater has a plastic end tank.


    Jo

  18. #18
    1000+ Posts Andrew Ch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Melbourne Australia
    Posts
    1,382

    Default

    My 20 year radiator needed constant repair from small leaks and so I looked at both types of radiator then spoke to a radiator repairer.

    The advice was al is lighter, cheaper and doesn't last compared to brass. So I bought a brass OEM replacement from Caravelle for lowish $200 who had it in stock.

  19. #19
    Fellow Frogger! Doush_504's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Cairo, Egypt
    Posts
    628

    Default

    Brass/Copper has better heat transfer properties than aluminum and hence gives you better cooling.
    Last edited by Doush_504; 4th January 2012 at 11:06 PM.
    Chadi

    1982 504 SR white manual sedan with A/C (257 000 Km)
    2012 308 1.6 VTi Vapor Grey manual H/B (35000 Km)
    1994 405 1.6 white manual sedan (208 000 Km)
    1992 605 SV24 (91 000 Km)
    2005 406 2.0L automatic (Replaced with a 2013 C5)
    1983 505 GR white manual sedan with A/C (170000 Km)

    All since new


  20. #20
    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    loneliness capital of the world
    Posts
    9,051

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Doush_504 View Post
    Brass/Copper has better heat transfer properties than aluminum and hence gives you better cooling.

    I think Al radiators compensate for that with a larger fin area/more pipes/etc. The difference is academic to begin with.
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

    Das computermachine is nicht fur gefingerpoken und mittengrabben. Ist easy schnappen der springenwerk, blowenfusen und poppencorken mit spitssparken. Ist nicht fur gewerken bei das dummkopfen. Das rubbernecken sightseeren keepen hands in das pockets-relaxen und watch das blinkenlights.

  21. #21
    1000+ Posts jo proffi's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    8,433

    Default

    I know most of us are experts on radiator design , but for those who are not, here is another one of my favourite radiator/coolant sites.

    http://www.arrowheadradiator.com/Rad...nt_%20Tips.htm

  22. #22
    Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Gold Coast Australia
    Posts
    48

    Default

    Water pumps wear out and don't pump as efficiently,don't know how you could test that.

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •