504 604 front suspension questions
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  1. #1
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    Default 504 604 front suspension questions

    Had some problems with the 604 this week
    There was some play and noise in the front left suspension. When I took it apart I fount this


    so this is with a welder being fixed

    Today I took the right suspension apart, as I have new pair of Sachs inserts and I wanted to see what the condition is like on the other side, and maybe save it before it fails completely.

    Problem 1.
    The pin that fixes the track control arm to the crossmember would not come out. Eventually I got it shifted with a bit of heat and sledge hammering. In fact doing the nut up again really hard seemed to help. The pin/nut are damaged but new ones are on the way (more s ). The pin had corroded into the middle of the bush.

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    Any reason the pin can't be greased up to prevent it corroding to the inside of the bush?

    Problem 2.
    The right bump stop was an absolute pig to remove from the strut. Took over an hour of levering, beating and swearing. The area of the strut inside the bump stop was also pretty swollen with corrosion. I've left it soaking in diesel for now.

    The bump stop seems a bad design because there is a gap between the bump stop and the strut most of the way down for water (salt water in the UK) and dirt to collect, and it's tight at the bottom keeping it there. I'm wondering if I should put silicone sealant to fill the gap at the top to stop dirt / water getting in there, but I suppose if it does (condensation?) then it would then stay wet forever. Maybe I should cut a slot out of the tight bit so that any water in there can run out or something, or maybe just fill the void with grease?

  2. #2
    1000+ Posts catshamlet's Avatar
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    Rather you than me running about with a repair there, hope your welder is good. But, will you still be able to get the shocker inserted after he's done his stuff?

    I think my 505 has a drain hole in the bit of the strut the spring sits in. (What the hell is the name of that bit?)



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    Started out with nothing, still got most of it left.

  3. #3
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    You don't need the bump stops, this should make things simpler. Catshamlet's idea is a good one, just drill a drainage hole on the spring platform. The stub axles don't look great, this is a good opportunity to paint them with rust converter, then chassicote.

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    This is the other one.
    I'm not sure whether this is okay or not. I do only use the car for road trips though, it's not particularly hard driven, and failure doesn't result in the suspension collapsing.



    Quote Originally Posted by Thanos View Post
    You don't need the bump stops, this should make things simpler. Catshamlet's idea is a good one, just drill a drainage hole on the spring platform. The stub axles don't look great, this is a good opportunity to paint them with rust converter, then chassicote.
    Why don't you need bump stops? Is it impossible for the suspension to compress that much anyway?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by dieselnutjob View Post
    Why don't you need bump stops? Is it impossible for the suspension to compress that much anyway?
    We have always removed them to extend travel and never had a problem. Our cars have the occasional difficult day, so I think that it is perfectly safe to remove them for everyday driving.

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    Quote Originally Posted by dieselnutjob View Post
    Had some problems with the 604 this week
    There was some play and noise in the front left suspension. When I took it apart I fount this


    so this is with a welder being fixed

    Today I took the right suspension apart, as I have new pair of Sachs inserts and I wanted to see what the condition is like on the other side, and maybe save it before it fails completely.

    Problem 1.
    The pin that fixes the track control arm to the crossmember would not come out. Eventually I got it shifted with a bit of heat and sledge hammering. In fact doing the nut up again really hard seemed to help. The pin/nut are damaged but new ones are on the way (more s ). The pin had corroded into the middle of the bush.

    Any reason the pin can't be greased up to prevent it corroding to the inside of the bush?

    Problem 2.
    The right bump stop was an absolute pig to remove from the strut. Took over an hour of levering, beating and swearing. The area of the strut inside the bump stop was also pretty swollen with corrosion. I've left it soaking in diesel for now.

    The bump stop seems a bad design because there is a gap between the bump stop and the strut most of the way down for water (salt water in the UK) and dirt to collect, and it's tight at the bottom keeping it there. I'm wondering if I should put silicone sealant to fill the gap at the top to stop dirt / water getting in there, but I suppose if it does (condensation?) then it would then stay wet forever. Maybe I should cut a slot out of the tight bit so that any water in there can run out or something, or maybe just fill the void with grease?
    Re Problem 1 - greasing the pin - I dont see why not - over time the grease will harden and might make it hard to pull out - but no worse that rusting.

    Re Problem 2 - I used an article may years ago from the PCUK magazine about fully dismantling the strut. Even in Australia, where we dont have salt, the problem occurs, and I have dismantled many struts removing the bump stop with a great deal of difficulty. Whenever I replace struts I've always pulled everything off. There is a drain in the strut "cup" which needs to be kept clear. Over time it fills with dust and becomes hardened once water gets on it. If you dont go on rough roads, the bump stop could probably be removed as Thanos says. The struts are the same as 504 (1976 on) I believe, so perhaps you might be able to find a replacement locally. Too bad freight is so expensive, else we could send some over to you. I have several in my shed.
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    1000+ Posts Wildebeest's Avatar
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    dieselnut',
    Never in a million years would a Peugeot strut suffer the corrosion in Australia as found in yours. Road salt has a lot to answer to.
    No wonder the MOT inspections are full on in the UK.

    IMO both struts need scrapping. Yes, the spring seats would need a decent drain hole.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Wildebeest View Post
    dieselnut',
    Never in a million years would a Peugeot strut suffer the corrosion in Australia as found in yours. Road salt has a lot to answer to.
    No wonder the MOT inspections are full on in the UK.

    IMO both struts need scrapping. Yes, the spring seats would need a decent drain hole.
    Sorry, the early ones were very prone to this, I knew two people who had the strut snap in half while driving. They improved the drainage in later models.
    Probably never happened in dryer WA.
    Graham

  9. #9
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    unfortunately these aren't available in the UK, so I will have to repair what I have.

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    I had the same problem many years ago with a 1.8L 1970 504. The previous owner lived by the beach and from memory was into boating. Easy to imagine how the struts (and other things) corroded.

    In my case, having them welded up worked very well but neither of them were in worse shape than the intact strut in your pics to begin with. In my case a close fitting metal sleeve was slid down and welded at each end. Of course it meant I had to enlarge the hole in the rubber rebound thing. You may well need it to be there for an MOT inspection.

    I'm no welder but I reckon the broken one might be a bit too far gone to resurrect successfully as it appears to be deeply pitted all the way up to the thread. I'd try and find a better one/s somewhere and, as other have pointed out, enlarge the drain hole/s.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by GRAHAM WALLIS View Post
    Sorry, the early ones were very prone to this, I knew two people who had the strut snap in half while driving. They improved the drainage in later models.
    Probably never happened in dryer WA.
    Graham
    Yep, I've seen quite a few badly corroded. The drain holes block up and as Graham says the later ones are less prone (I think as the holes are bigger).

    Jim

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by dieselnutjob View Post
    unfortunately these aren't available in the UK, so I will have to repair what I have.
    Presumably they aren't the same as 505 or 504? Have you tried Dean Hunter?



    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Chisholm View Post
    Of course it meant I had to enlarge the hole in the rubber rebound thing. You may well need it to be there for an MOT inspection.
    Far as I know, bump stops aren't checked during the MOT.



    dieselnutter,
    if you're on good terms with your friendly local MOT man, ask to have a read through his book of checkable items - I'm not so sure that repairs to a strut would be allowed. (Unless you can hide the repairs with the rubber boot?)



    Mike.
    Started out with nothing, still got most of it left.

  13. #13
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    The spring platform started to collapse on my previous 604 and was very obviously welded. None of the various MOT testers never had a problem with it. As a result of the previous 604 I know that Dean hasn't got any.

    Dean's advice is to switch to a later 505 setup with the ball joint in the bottom of the strut.

    My welding guy is very, very good. I have every confidence in him.

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