404 clutch bleeding
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  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! Balki's Avatar
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    Default 404 clutch bleeding

    hi just wondering if anyone has a great tip on bleeding a 404 clutch

    i have bleed it by using the brake caliper with hose to clutch slave and then pumped the brakes etc, all air seams to be out of the transperant hose but still a little at the master cylinder, have jiggled valve in master cylinder.
    i have got the clutch to work but you need to push it in with your tippy toes to get it to free so there must still be some air in it

    clutch master and slave are brand new also new clutch throw out bearing and preasure plate

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  2. #2
    Member 504pug's Avatar
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    Ive always bled my brakes not by pumping but by opening the bleed nipple and waiting for gravity to do it........takes quite a while but it seems to get every last little bit of air out and you don't need an assistant

    don't know if you could do the same with the clutch

    just a thought

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Balki View Post
    hi just wondering if anyone has a great tip on bleeding a 404 clutch

    i have bleed it by using the brake caliper with hose to clutch slave and then pumped the brakes etc, all air seams to be out of the transperant hose but still a little at the master cylinder, have jiggled valve in master cylinder.
    i have got the clutch to work but you need to push it in with your tippy toes to get it to free so there must still be some air in it

    clutch master and slave are brand new also new clutch throw out bearing and preasure plate
    You probably need to fit a spacer between the rod and the piston. 404 clutches are quite marginal, they are both lighter than the 504 and have less pedal travel, so the diaphragm movement is a fair bit less.
    To bleed push down the valve while lifting the lever with your hand, no need to go inside to push the pedal.
    Graham

  4. #4
    Fellow Frogger! Balki's Avatar
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    Default clutch

    thanks graham will give it a try i have left the bleed nipple open all night so will try again tonight

    when you say a spacer between the rod do you mean the slave or master

  5. #5
    1000+ Posts Wildebeest's Avatar
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    Balki,
    Is the bleed nipple on the slave cyl pointing upwards? Have found this necessary to completely bleed the slave.
    You seem to have everything else covered. "Tickling" the clutch m/cyl valve has always worked for me.
    Graham's spacer may do the trick. Haven't heard of that one before.

  6. #6
    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
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    The brass nipple off a spark plug HT end between the master push rod and master piston is perfect length.

    Assemble the whole lot off the car, orient the master and slave as suitable for easiest bleeding and bleed.

    Then dangle the the slave, off the nylon line in front of the firewall. Catch from underneath and slide in place and fit the snap ring.

    Then you need to fit the support the clip which is screwed the wiper motor bracket after that.
    The less one interacts with rude, ignorant, critical and argumentative members. The more peaceful life becomes.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by robmac View Post
    The brass nipple off a spark plug HT end between the master push rod and master piston is perfect length.

    Assemble the whole lot off the car, orient the master and slave as suitable for easiest bleeding and bleed.

    Then dangle the the slave, off the nylon line in front of the firewall. Catch from underneath and slide in place and fit the snap ring.

    Then you need to fit the support the clip which is screwed the wiper motor bracket after that.
    Make sure there is still some free play in the pedal, you may have to trim the spacer.

  8. #8
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    My issue has been freeing the slave from the bellhousing, any tips?

  9. #9
    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kiwia110 View Post
    My issue has been freeing the slave from the bellhousing, any tips?
    • Spray with Innox.
    • Remove the the snap ring and nylon line.
    • Grab the biggest meanest shifter and apply to flat faces of the slave cylinder
    • Rock the shifter backwards and forwards until the cylinder moves a tad
    • Apply more Innox , and keep rocking backwards and forwards
    • Once it rotates freely change, to vice grips and twist backwards and forward and pull at the same time.

    Make sure the car is securely on stands. Use your foot bracing off the car body on the shifter initially.

    Use some lithium grease when you reassemble.
    The less one interacts with rude, ignorant, critical and argumentative members. The more peaceful life becomes.

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