1.6 HDI Oil Lubrication and Maintenance. Avoiding Problems.
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Thread: 1.6 HDI Oil Lubrication and Maintenance. Avoiding Problems.

  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! 908HDI's Avatar
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    Default 1.6 HDI Oil Lubrication and Maintenance. Avoiding Problems.

    As an owner of a 1.6 HDi in our 207 SW that intends to keep it for some time I decided to look into the lubrication issues of this engine in great detail in order to maintain the engine to the highest possible standard and avoid potential problems.

    This engine is used in a number of cars including Citroes, Ford, Volvo and even Mazda in some markets. All have complained about the sensitive lubrication on this engine and the costly consequences if not maintained properly.

    I recently changed the oil and filter on my car which I now do every 5000km and for good reason.

    The last service was done by my Peugeot dealer 5000km ago and when I drained the oil and looked at the filter element i was suprised how bad the oil looked and smelled. Since replacing the oil / servicing myself the engine feels more free revving, quiter and the economy has improved. The question is what the did dealer put in ? I can not prove it but it did not seem to be the good stuff. On that servcie they also overfilled the oil and I luckily spotted that staright away. Idiots !

    The 1.6 HDi engine oil lubrication can get clogged up if you do not stick to correct service intervals, procedures and use the correct oil which is TOTAL Ineo Ecs 5W-30 fully synthetic.

    There have been a lot of Turbo failures on early versions and still reports of Turbo problems on later engines. This is due to the oil degrading to the point where it starts to congeal blocking the oil feed pipes and carbonizing the EGR valve and Turbo pressure release valve [ dump valve ] as well as blocking up the FAP [ DPF ] exhaust filter. The Oil pump has a gauze on it that really needs to be cleaned out every 80,000km along with the gauze in the oil feed pipe to the turbo. These are the main clogging points.

    So why does the recommended fully synthetic oil de grade and may clog up ?

    The 1.6 HDi can get very hot and the turbo itself degrades the oil from very high temperatures achieved at the shaft and seals. Over time any oil, no matter how good and expensive de grades where its lubrication properties are no where near to what they were when new. Its mainly contaminants from the engine and carbon which enters the oil via blow by from the piston rings and linings. This varies a lot from engine to engine so for some a more frequent oil and filter change is advisable. A perfect example of high wear is a car that is used on short city runs day in and day out. If you fall in this catergory you should be thinking about changing the oil and filter twice as often.

    Dealers have a lot to fit in and do not alwys drain the old oil properly allowing some of the contaminated old oil to mix in with the new oil which then de grades much faster.

    Using an oil which is not an emission system recommended type is asking for trouble. On this engine a low saps oil is a must. Below is an example of the EGR valve fouling after 80,000km with a low SAPS [ Recommemded oil ] and conventional oil;




    Some dearlers use Generic oils which are not designed for the recommended service intervals. If you have bought a car used that is outside warranty where has the previous owner been servicing the car ? What oil was used ?

    The 1.6 HDi oil filter: Its an element cartridge type that is contained in a plastic housing. It is unusual as it has a small nipple with a seal at one end that slots into the corresponding hole in the mounting plate on the engine. You must slot this in before putting on the cap. When you unscrew the filter, the element comes out with the cap as it is retained in place so to the untrained it looks as if you just have to slot it back into the cap and then refit. Wrong ! If you do this you are not filtering the oil !

    Correct oil change procedure for the 1.6 HDi;

    1] Make sure that the engine is at normal operating temperature

    2] Remove dipstick and oil filler cap

    3] Car has to be on level ground, not jacked at the front.

    4] Unscrew oil filter cap [ 27mm socket ] put a rag underneath the oil filter to catch small residue when open.

    5] Unscrew sump plug and drain oil into suitable container / pan

    6] Leave it to drain completley. Minimum of 15 minutes until no more drops

    7] Renew filter element as described above including the seal on the cap. Run a bit of oil over the seal before refitting.

    8] Clean the sump plug and replace the washer. Do not overtighten when refitting. Clean the area with a clean rag to remove any oil residue from the sump and plug hole aperture

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    9] Using the correct oil [ TOTAL Ineo Ecs 5W-30 ] slowly fill checking the dipstick on a regular basis. DO NOT fill to full mark. Fill to approx 90% as this will avoid oil going through the CCV pipe into the intake and turbo in the first 50kms. After 50kms top up slowly to just below the full mark.

    10] Optional but highly recommended: Add Wynns Formula Gold diesel into a full tank of fuel. I use this and it works extremley well and does exactly what is says on the box. Reduces carbon, cleans injectors, increases performance and economy and its Cerium based like the Eolys fluid so its compatible with the FAP [ DPF Filter ]

    11] repeat above every 5000kms and you will have an engine that should be trouble free.

    Prices of parts from A Peugeot dealer; TOTAL Ineo Ecs 5W-30 5L $65, Oil Filter £29 sum plug washer $1.50


    Another weak spot on this engine is the PCV valve on the front rocker cover. It is unfortunatley integrated in the rocker cover and I would recommend changing this every 50,000km as the spring actuator valve is not the best design. The rocker cover with the gasket is around $120 and very simple to replace.

    Most depollution faults are due to:

    1] Clogged fuel filter

    2] Clogged EGR valve

    3] Faulty Air doser [ Throttle body ] Oil contamination through intake or leaking tubo seals

    4] Faulty air sensor on the left hand side of the air doser.

    5] Regeneration fault

    6] Clogged FAP filter

    7] Faulty PCV valve on rocker cover as explained above.


    To conclude a well mainatined engine should not have any problems. Most of the above happens due to poor maintenance, bad oil and constant short journeys without more frequent oil changes.

    This is not to put you off a 1.6 HDi just to make you aware of potential problems and issues and help maintain a great engine to its full potential.

    Prevention is always better than a cure.....

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    Fellow Frogger! jurgen_s's Avatar
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    was at the dealer yesterday and they were fixing the lubrication tube on a 1.6 hdi 110hp in 206cc. It was going to cost the owner of the car quite some money because there was almost no space to get to the tube. Therefore they needed to strip almost the entire front of the car to dismantle the head shield of the turbo that also housed the tube. They showed me the the gaze in the tube and it is not thicker than a pen. So yes, they can clog very, very quickly if not maintained properly. But they also told me that if maintained properly the engines rarely fale.
    As for the egr: if it is that clogged after 80.000 km's even with the right oil, you're not driving your car in the right way. If you do not give it some grunt from time to time, your egr will look like that.
    Here is mine after 130.000km's (although from a 2.0 hdi)

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    Hey jurgen_s !

    Looks very clean but as you say thats from the 2.0 HDi which does not seem to carbonate as much as the 1.6 HDi.

    The pictures I attached were not from my car but another two 1.6 HDi's for reference....

    I hope my EGR on my car is like yours.....

    I think the cerium based Wynns Formula Gold will help keep it all much cleaner....

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    I saw other 2.0 hdi's (that is the 136hp variant) with the same clogging as on your pictures. It really depends on your driving style. If you drive constantly within the working parameters of your EGR than yes it will clog fairly quick and certainly if you use the wrong oil. If the wrong oil does that to your EGR valve, imagine what it will do to your FAP...
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    908 HDI. How does Wynns Formula Gold compare with other diesel treatments? Is there something that makes it better than say the Flashlube diesel treatment? Is this the best additive for a 406 HDI? Thanks

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    Default 908 hdi

    I had issues with my C4 regarding OIL and in general sloppy service, the dealer did not beleive me when I told the service manager that the C4 hdi had a FAP filter they had been useing oil Mobil 1 when I put it to him and said that they should use at least Mobil1 esp he did not beleive me in fact everything that went wrong was always MY FAULT for what every reason needless to say i traded it in on a C5 H D I, first service I took the C5 after 5K for oil and oil filter service, I was charged for both, the Invoice recorded that they had replaced the filter and used 5lts of oil, + eloys oil that cost $39.00 to top up, then they told me that they used TOTAL OIL when in fact its quite possible they used Mobil1 esp, I can't prove that, however in the second service at 20K I purchaced my own Total oil in a sealed plastic container I was advised that during this service they needed 5.5lts of oil and used half a bottle(1)ltr of their own Total oil + an new fuel filter $84.04 so the engine oil sump has grown a bit, after a couple of days I checked the oil via the dip stick the oil was so clean and clear I was unable to determine the level of oil on the dip stick, given that last week I carried out another check the oil is above the full mark by about 10 mm or more.
    I have made contact with Ateco in regard to the oil change and how much oil should be used in a standard oil change with and without an oil filter, I am still awaiting for a reply. the dealer service has a lot to explain.

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    the brand of the oil is not so important.

    It need to have however the correct multigrade characteristics, the fact that it needs to be low saps and therefore can be used in combination with a particle filter.

    The to much oil is certainly a problem because it can cause irreparable damage to your catalytic converter. And why is he filling eolys after only 5k?? That needs only to be done when the reservoir is empty, but that will only be after plus minus 180.000km's.
    Gather proof of the dealers lousy actions, and write a formal complaint to Citroen Australia. Ask them if it is normal that customers are being ripped off.
    I think I must be very lucky with my dealer: does his work very good, doesn't charge me with things that aren't necessary and on top of that for a fair cost...
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    Quote Originally Posted by jurgen_s View Post
    the brand of the oil is not so important.
    Correct.

    Vehicles with a HDi engine, equipped with a particulate filter, and built from 02/2009 onwards, must use a lubricant that has been approved to PSA standard B71 2290.

    In order for any lubricant manufacturer to receive any OEM approval for a particular product, a sample formulation must be sent to the OEM for evaluation. Approval is only granted upon passing various in-house tests, but it does not last the life of the product, and must be renewed periodically. It must be said that these approval and renewal processes aren't cheap.

    To my knowledge, the following lubricants so far have received B71 2290 approval from PSA:

    Castrol Magnatec Professional C2 5W-30
    Esso Ultron ESP Formula P 5W-30
    Fuchs Titan GT1 Pro C-2 5W-30
    Mobil 1 ESP Formula 5W-30
    Mobil Super 3000 Formula P 5W-30
    Mobil Syst S ESP Formula P 5W-30
    Motul 8100 Eco-clean 5W-30
    Shell Helix Ultra Extra 5W-30
    Total Ineo Activa ECS 5W-30
    Total Ineo Quartz ECS 5W-30


    Not all lubricants are available in every region, so probably easier just to stick with Total as it seems to be available at most PSA dealers.

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    Quote Originally Posted by andrepug View Post
    908 HDI. How does Wynns Formula Gold compare with other diesel treatments? Is there something that makes it better than say the Flashlube diesel treatment? Is this the best additive for a 406 HDI? Thanks
    I am not sure how it compares to Flashlube as I have never tried it but Wynns Formula Gold is Cerium based which is very effectice at reducing carbon and improving combustion. It is also safe to use with FAP [ DPF ] filters and Cats. It does a good job in my engine.

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    Quote Originally Posted by scarfjoin View Post
    I had issues with my C4 regarding OIL and in general sloppy service, the dealer did not beleive me when I told the service manager that the C4 hdi had a FAP filter they had been useing oil Mobil 1 when I put it to him and said that they should use at least Mobil1 esp he did not beleive me in fact everything that went wrong was always MY FAULT for what every reason needless to say i traded it in on a C5 H D I, first service I took the C5 after 5K for oil and oil filter service, I was charged for both, the Invoice recorded that they had replaced the filter and used 5lts of oil, + eloys oil that cost $39.00 to top up, then they told me that they used TOTAL OIL when in fact its quite possible they used Mobil1 esp, I can't prove that, however in the second service at 20K I purchaced my own Total oil in a sealed plastic container I was advised that during this service they needed 5.5lts of oil and used half a bottle(1)ltr of their own Total oil + an new fuel filter $84.04 so the engine oil sump has grown a bit, after a couple of days I checked the oil via the dip stick the oil was so clean and clear I was unable to determine the level of oil on the dip stick, given that last week I carried out another check the oil is above the full mark by about 10 mm or more.
    I have made contact with Ateco in regard to the oil change and how much oil should be used in a standard oil change with and without an oil filter, I am still awaiting for a reply. the dealer service has a lot to explain.
    Having too much oil in will do a few things. Firstly increase oil pressure where the oil can only escape through the CCV pipe into your intake. This means that its going through the turbo into the intercooler and in some cases can contaminate your Air Doser [ Throttle Body ] as well as the air sensor on the left hand side of the air doser. Secondly if the crank is even partly submerged into oil it will put a lot of stress and wear on it. I would suggest you ask the dealer to replcae the oil and filter to be on the safe side as it was their negligence that caused the overfill.

    Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 is a good oil and safe to use in the PSA Hdi engines. But as discussed anything else that is not low SAPS will carbonise much quicker.

    Adding Eolys fluid at such low k's does not make any sense unless the ontainer was damaged and leaked. But you would have known that by seeing a leak and secondly when the fluid gets low you get a mesage on the display warning you of that fact.

    When the dealer overfilled my engine with oil I could feel it staright away as the engine would not rev freely and felt laboured. If you do not act early with too much oil it can damage the engine.

    Today, sadly, I treat dealers with total mistrust. Before my warranty expired i use to check everything in front of them after a service. I made sure that the overfill was on record and sent an email to both the dealer and Puegeot Australia detailng their negiligent actions. This was in case I had problems with the engine later down the road. Luckily so far so good.

    You are definatley doing the right thing by using oil in a sealed container because at least you know whats going into your engine.

    I always maintain that a car and engine is only as good as the owner and service care given. Thats why I do everything myself. Under warranty you have to have dealer service but you can still chnage the oil and filter in between...

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    Since Mobil 1 5w-30 was mentioned, I was planning to put it in the 406 next week instead of Mobil 1 0w-40, has anyone tried it in the 2L petrol ?
    Chadi

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    Quote Originally Posted by Doush_504 View Post
    Since Mobil 1 5w-30 was mentioned, I was planning to put it in the 406 next week instead of Mobil 1 0w-40, has anyone tried it in the 2L petrol ?
    Peugeot's Oil Table says you can use Total Quartz Ineo ECS 5W30 in the DW and EW engines, but not the older XU engines. I guess that means you can use Mobil 1 5W30.

    http://www.peugeot.com.au/media/deli...305-df583b.pdf

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    Quote Originally Posted by DeKa View Post
    Peugeot's Oil Table says you can use Total Quartz Ineo ECS 5W30 in the DW and EW engines, but not the older XU engines. I guess that means you can use Mobil 1 5W30.

    http://www.peugeot.com.au/media/deli...305-df583b.pdf
    Thanks
    Chadi

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    I sent off a letter to Ateco regarding engine oil and filter, I wanted to know how much oil is required in litre's with and without the oil filter when carring out a simple service, The reply
    was take a look in your owners handbook, or contact the dealer, unfortunatly the dealers don't know, in two services one branch used 5 litres oil cost $92.50, in the next service same thing oil and filter but i took my own Total oil in a 5 liltre sealed plastic container, that cost me $65.00, but I was told that I would need another half litre because that what is required, I was also charged $33.75 for eloys oil cause thats what they do and it's a once off job, in the second service a fuel filter cost $84.04, and was charged $20.76 for 1 litre of which they only used half of that oil and gave me what was left in the 1litre bottle.Same Dealer different branch, my issues with the said dealer is going to be very interesting.
    Tony

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    I take it your C5 is a 2.0L HDi ? If so the oil capacity is 4.3L. The 1.6 HDi is 3.75 L


    Moteur
    Cylindrée
    1997 cm3
    Nom du moteur
    nc
    Alésage x Course (mm)
    85 x 88
    Rapport volumétrique
    17,6 : 1
    Architecture
    Quatre cylindres en ligne
    Soupapes
    16
    Type d'alimentation
    Injection directe à rampe commune
    Régime moteur
    2000 tr/mn
    Couple maxi
    320 Nm
    Capacité huile
    4,3 l

    So I don't know why the dealer would have needed more than 5L.

    How many Kms does it have ? The Eolys fluid is designed to last up to 100K before needing to be topped up so something not right there as explained.

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    eolys oil??

    it is certainly not oil. It serves to lower the combustion temperature of the particles in your DPF. It has a reservoir of 5 liters that only needs to be refilled around 160.000 - 180.000 km's depending on your driving style. Eolys is injected in your diesel reservoir in a very small quantity each time the central computer detects that your filling opening is open for more than 20 seconds (if the sensor fails in your fuel cap no eolys will be injected and your DPF will get clogged).
    Filling the eolys is not something you do quickly between two jobs. It is under the plastic cover of one the the rear wheel arches and therefore you need to take of the wheel and the plastic cover. Not something you do for each maintenance period. For the person doing it: you need to wear protective gear (certainly gloves, mask and safety glasses) due to its highly toxic nature.

    Sounds to me that your dealer is in fact a stealer...
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    Hmmm, 4.3 l doesn't sound right for a 2.0 HDi.

    Within the VIN, there should be three letters indicating precisely which 2.0 HDi engine you have. Note, for the RHH engine, also check the RPO number on the front pillar.

    Engine : DW10BTED4
    VIN code : RHR
    Capacity incl. oil filter : 5.25 l
    Capacity excl. oil filter : 5.00 l
    Capacity between MIN and MAX : 2.0 l

    Engine : DW10CTED4
    VIN code : RHH
    RPO number : up to 11918
    Capacity incl. oil filter : 5.50 l
    Capacity excl. oil filter : 5.25 l
    Capacity between MIN and MAX : 1.7 l
    Oil dipstick handle colour : Yellow

    Engine : DW10CTED4
    VIN code : RHH
    RPO number : 11919 onwards
    Capacity incl. oil filter : 5.00 l
    Capacity excl. oil filter : 4.75 l
    Capacity between MIN and MAX : 1.0 l
    Oil dipstick handle colour : Orange

    You can see why the dealers get mixed up, but even so, it's rather inexcusable.


    And for completeness sake, this is after all a thread about the 1.6 HDi, so...

    Engine : DV6TED4
    VIN code : 9HZ
    Capacity incl. oil filter : 3.75 l
    Capacity excl. oil filter : 3.25 l
    Capacity between MIN and MAX : 1.5 l

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    Eolys DPX42 or Eolys 176 are the PSA recommended fluids. Official Peugeot Dealer Top Up indicates every 5 years or 110,00 Km or 70,000 Miles. Normally you will get a message on the display warning of low Eolys fluid. These fluids are [ 58Ce ] Cerium based. Before being used as Diesel additives they have been and are mainly used as a hydrocarbon catalyst for self cleaning ovens. There is one downside with the Cerium particles in the Eolys fluid in that if the vehicle is standing for a long time they will accumulate on the bottom of the Eolys container and not be mixed in the correct ratio when the fluid is injected into the Diesel tank.

    Its actually the regeneration mapping / phase that burns off the soot in the DPF filter with the High pressure injection which is utilised to inject fuel into the exhaust gasses during the post injection period. This casues the temperature to increase to a high enough level to oxidise particles in the filter leaving and ash residue and the Eolys Cerium based fluid assits and increases the efficiency of this process. This is ECU controlled.

    Diesel_vert the 4.3L oil sump capacity spec is for a 2010 407 and C5 2.0 Hdi with FAP. This applied from 01/01/2010 production.

    You are right with the variations of sump capacities which are for the earlier 2.0 HDi versions.
    Last edited by 908HDI; 26th September 2011 at 11:07 PM.

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    RPO 11919 works out to be around June 2009, did they seriously change the sump capacity again just six months later?

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    From memory DPX42 was the original Eolys, was replaced by Eolys 176, which was more concentrated and this has in turn been replaced with two later versions, Powerflex being one. Most current models will have a fill from the factory of about 3 litres, some using a bag and others using a rigid tank. There should be enough to go about 160K+, depending on how the car is driven. For many cars, that will be a lifetime fill, but anyone contemplating a used car about tht distance should think about when a refill will be required and how much it costs. The rigid tanks can be topped up, but the pouches have to be replaced.

    With the 1.6HDi, regular oil changes are essential if you value your turbo. Once aged oil has cooked inside, it will be very difficult to clean out the carbon and it will have done damage to things like the camshaft bearings, which are machined into the head. Really, if a turbo has failed due to carboned up oil, the engine will probably be full of carbon and uneconomic to rebuild professionally. Overall, the 1.6 HDi is an excellent engine, but not as forgiving of poor maintenance as a petrol engine.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 908HDI View Post

    Its actually the regeneration mapping / phase that burns off the soot in the DPF filter with the High pressure injection which is utilised to inject fuel into the exhaust gasses during the post injection period. This casues the temperature to increase to a high enough level to oxidise particles in the filter leaving and ash residue and the Eolys Cerium based fluid assits and increases the efficiency of this process. This is ECU controlled.
    not quite right. The eolys in fact makes it possible that the combustion of the particles can take place at 450°C instead of 650°C. Therefore lowering the amount of energy and time necessary to clean out the DPF.

    As I understood, in the new 1.6hdi they have abandoned the eolys and have started to use the normal self cleaning dpf system... but I may be wrong on that one.
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    Quote Originally Posted by jurgen_s View Post
    As I understood, in the new 1.6hdi they have abandoned the eolys and have started to use the normal self cleaning dpf system... but I may be wrong on that one.
    I don't think so - the Euro V upgrade has tweaked a large number of bits on the engine, but it still has the Eolys fluid, AFAIK.
    Regards,

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    Default Wynns Formula Gold Diesel

    10] Optional but highly recommended: Add Wynns Formula Gold diesel into a full tank of fuel. I use this and it works extremley well and does exactly what is says on the box. Reduces carbon, cleans injectors, increases performance and economy and its Cerium based like the Eolys fluid so its compatible with the FAP [ DPF Filter ]


    Does anyone know where I can buy Wynns Formula Gold Diesel or a similar alternative in Australia? Supercheap autos do a separate fuel system and injector adative.

    Thanks in advance

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    Quote Originally Posted by pomaussiefrog View Post
    10] Optional but highly recommended: Add Wynns Formula Gold diesel into a full tank of fuel. I use this and it works extremley well and does exactly what is says on the box. Reduces carbon, cleans injectors, increases performance and economy and its Cerium based like the Eolys fluid so its compatible with the FAP [ DPF Filter ]


    Does anyone know where I can buy Wynns Formula Gold Diesel or a similar alternative in Australia? Supercheap autos do a separate fuel system and injector adative.

    Thanks in advance
    Well to start with I use anyone else first before Supercheap Auto, they stock what HQ decides and the staff generally have NFI beyond car mats and seat covers. Walking distance to me is a Burson's and a trade branch Repco. Get in the chariot and a short drive we have a couple of Supercrap's, a large Repco retail and an Autobarn that was Carac in Dandenong since 1968....I was born in '65 so it has "always been there". Plus a few other outlets such as motorcycle stores, handy for Belray products, and an Amsoil outlet. I reckon if you can't find the automotive part/supplier/workshop etc in Dandenong then it really doesn't exist!
    Best advice is check out the local stores and tell them that your car is NOT a FalcadoreCamShitsme and that because of this fact your not a complete moron and require a higher level of service from them. Once you've found a store that is actually On the Ball hang on to them, they are like Gold!
    One store I go to for replacement parts is very trade based and busy, went there one freezing winter's day and the guy's working had not much happening so got to play their own choice of music. A positive comment was made on my behalf, it was Van Morrison so not hard at all, and a brief chat and 'Hey Presto!' I've become a favoured/trade customer.
    Brendan.

  25. #25
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    I am resurrecting this old thread for good reason - a friend (Felix) who owns a 307 wagon with the 1.6L HDi seems to have exactly the problems that 908HDI was warning about 7 years ago . This man is "tech savvy" - involved in the computer industry - and I assumed he had done his homework when he bought the car 2nd hand. Apparently not...

    The car was brought to Tenterfield on a flatbed last week after Felix was confronted with the big red STOP light, and the "Low engine oil pressure" message. Seemed OK when started next morning, but message was back within 500 m. However he admits that before the STOP light came on, it had been significantly down on power while trying to climb up the range from Casino - which I assumed meant it was in "limp" mode - he says it was only usable between 1700 - 2500 rpm.

    However he has since admitted that the power loss started a couple of days earlier, accompanied by "loud noises" , but that he kept on driving. Car has only done about 130,000 km, but it has been established that incorrect oil has been used (not sure how many oil changes were "wrong").

    Tenterfield mechanic has read codes with a generic reader (I haven't enquired as to whether he has done a "physical examination" as well as taking the history), which show turbo and EGR faults as well as low oil pressure. He says that the turbo is stuffed, the sump is full of sludge, and that the best option is a 2nd hand engine (hasn't provided quote yet).

    Is he right? I have ridden in the car (while Felix was "doctor shopping" around Tenterfield) and the engine starts easily and sounds normal (but lacks power). Oil level is OK. Assuming the loud noises were the turbo self-destructing, and that the EGR and the oil pump strainer are blocked (the DPF is another unknown quantity), is it likely that replacing the turbo (& oil feed line?), replacing or cleaning the EGR, and removing the sump to clean the oil strainer etc. would resurrect this engine? Or is the damage likely to be much greater?

    Cheers

    Alec

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