stop press 306 head 'crack'
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  1. #1
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    Default stop press 306 head 'crack'

    I now have expert advice that the problem is not the head, but rather, the cylinder block, and this is unfortunately fairly common, on account of corrosion. From what I was told, the fissure develops, often at the back of the block and towards the end. It comes as a horizontal crack around the bottom of a point where the cylinder liners sit. This means (to me at least), that I may stand a much better chance of welding the damage without disassembling.

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  2. #2
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    hi if this is a new 'problem' maybe i have got the same problem?.... if you can post some photos of the were about that be good . thanks

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by 306cabmad View Post
    I now have expert advice that the problem is not the head, but rather, the cylinder block, and this is unfortunately fairly common, on account of corrosion. From what I was told, the fissure develops, often at the back of the block and towards the end. It comes as a horizontal crack around the bottom of a point where the cylinder liners sit. This means (to me at least), that I may stand a much better chance of welding the damage without disassembling.
    I haven't seen the crack nor the engine.

    But my impression of seeing TIG aluminium welding in progress, is that you are unlikely to weld a crack insitu without damaging a lot of other stuff.

    The welder who welded up the corrosion in my aluminium cylinder head pre-heated the head before doing any welding. This was eliminate stresses in the head.

    I'll leave it to experts to advise you but a well known saying about dreamin' comes to mind.
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  4. #4
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    The previous owner's mechanic, to whom I have spoken, and who clearly knows his stuff with motors European, suggested welding, but the man doing the welding said he could do it, but no guarantees of success. I know a friendly welder, and what's to lose ? If it doesn't work, the engine has to be replaced anyway. Shame it appears to be at the peak of its performance potential. I haven't met you Rob, but what would You do ?

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    Quote Originally Posted by 306cabmad View Post
    The previous owner's mechanic, to whom I have spoken, and who clearly knows his stuff with motors European, suggested welding, but the man doing the welding said he could do it, but no guarantees of success. I know a friendly welder, and what's to lose ? If it doesn't work, the engine has to be replaced anyway. Shame it appears to be at the peak of its performance potential. I haven't met you Rob, but what would You do ?
    It wasn't meant as a criticism, simply an observation.

    If the car was a keeper I'd probably look for another engine.

    You are quite correct in that you have nothing to lose, so just do it.
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  6. #6
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    I've used these people for all sorts of crack repairs on heavy machines.






    http://www.metalockaustralia.com/

    Graham Lewis

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    Hi Graham - just had a look on the web, where the process is very thoroughly explained. Just reading that, gives an insight to the context whichever way the attempted repair is approached. I telephoned the Dandenong office to get technical advice. My first concern was confirmed - : they can only perform the work with the engine out and 'on the workshop floor'. A quote for a crack say, 70mm in length, in a relatively open and uncomplex position, in the case of this enquiry, was $600. Taking this step sort-of defeats my purpose rather, apart from cost, in that I was trying to avoid the engine removal. However, what you have put me on to was enlightening in itself, and (tends) to provide a more confident approach to whatever I decide. Thanks for contributing.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 306cabmad View Post
    Hi Graham - just had a look on the web, where the process is very thoroughly explained. Just reading that, gives an insight to the context whichever way the attempted repair is approached. I telephoned the Dandenong office to get technical advice. My first concern was confirmed - : they can only perform the work with the engine out and 'on the workshop floor'. A quote for a crack say, 70mm in length, in a relatively open and uncomplex position, in the case of this enquiry, was $600. Taking this step sort-of defeats my purpose rather, apart from cost, in that I was trying to avoid the engine removal. However, what you have put me on to was enlightening in itself, and (tends) to provide a more confident approach to whatever I decide. Thanks for contributing.
    I would seek advice from an auto cylinder head welder/ reconditioner. $600 seems over the top. Cylinder head companies weld aluminium daily.

    Welding up a bit of corrosion cost me $75, but that was in conjunction with other works to the head.
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    Hi Rob - No, we have moved to the back of the block. It was just suggested that I consult Metaloc, a high-tech company who are experts in the field of 'cold' repairs of cracks in casting (read the reply to Graham in Geelong). It is quite an involved process, and does not involve any welding, or even heat. I am about to post an update on a 'eureka' moment explaining that I have located the leak with my very own eyes. Expect a new post.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 306cabmad View Post
    Hi Rob - No, we have moved to the back of the block. It was just suggested that I consult Metaloc, a high-tech company who are experts in the field of 'cold' repairs of cracks in casting (read the reply to Graham in Geelong). It is quite an involved process, and does not involve any welding, or even heat. I am about to post an update on a 'eureka' moment explaining that I have located the leak with my very own eyes. Expect a new post.
    Whoops, I didn't read the link. I have now.

    It will be interesting to see if it's economical.
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  11. #11
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    I have taken it further - see today's update. Am at least 'on the scent of a fix'. Keep watching and cross your fingers

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