708 (505) ball joint replacement
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  1. #1
    1000+ Posts catshamlet's Avatar
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    Default 708 (505) ball joint replacement

    Before my next MOT, due around the end of December, I need to replace my right hand ball joint and the track rod end. While I'm at it I'll do both sides, but my question is...Mr Haynes says it's necessary to remove the strut to change the balljoint - is it possible to do it without removing the struts?
    I hope so...



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    Mike.
    Started out with nothing, still got most of it left.

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    Quote Originally Posted by catshamlet View Post
    Before my next MOT, due around the end of December, I need to replace my right hand ball joint and the track rod end. While I'm at it I'll do both sides, but my question is...Mr Haynes says it's necessary to remove the strut to change the balljoint - is it possible to do it without removing the struts?
    I hope so...



    Mike.
    It certainly would be easier to remove the strut,
    Does the fact it is in a 203 make this hard? Normally very easy to do this.
    Graham

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    1000+ Posts catshamlet's Avatar
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    It means taking the front wings off, which means taking the sills off....
    No real hardship, but I'd rather not.



    Mike.
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    Default 708 (505) ball joint replacement

    Hi Mike

    I understand your reluctance in taking the strut out but having done many of these I would not like to attempt it with the strut in place, uou need to apply considerable force to undo these ball joints, I think from memory they torque up to around 120 -130 pounds and even with the correct peugeot tool and holding the strut in a vice they take some force to undo. I know this is not what you want to hear but I would take the strut out.

    Neil

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    1000+ Posts catshamlet's Avatar
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    Oh well. thanks for that - I'll take them out to do them, but a couple more questions....
    Is there anything I should watch out for regarding damaging the strut in the vice?
    Is the peugeot special tool necessary, or would some big stilsons get a good enough grip?



    Mike.
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    Quote Originally Posted by catshamlet View Post
    Oh well. thanks for that - I'll take them out to do them, but a couple more questions....
    Is there anything I should watch out for regarding damaging the strut in the vice?
    Is the peugeot special tool necessary, or would some big stilsons get a good enough grip?



    Mike.
    Hi Mike

    I have done these with stilsons in the past, prior to obtaining the right tool, and most times you will get away with that, but occasionally you will find one that is extremely tight which makes it difficult if not impossible. The other issue is that you can't torque them up to the correct tension but that's not major as you just tighten them really tight and they have a lockring to hold them. You may be able to find a long socket to do the job or perhaps modify one to fit, good luck with it , keep us posted.

    Regards
    Neil

  7. #7
    1000+ Posts Beano's Avatar
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    Hi Mike,
    I'm not sure of the body setup on 203s, but I would have thought that you could take out the strut fairly easily, even though it's a 505 one you've grafted in there.
    You'll need to take off the disc as some (or one) of the locking tabs will probably be hidden behind the dust plate on the inner side of the disc.
    I've never used stilsons to undo macpherson strut ball joint nuts. Here's what I do once I've got out the strut:

    First I clean up ( using turps and a toothbrush ) the ribbed bit of the ball joint so I can see exactly where the locking tabs are. Then I undo em with a small hammer and smallish screwdriver (used as a chisel / prybar).
    I then use a heavy hammer and blunt cold chisel to knock the ribbed bit in the direction I want it to go in, paying attention to the angle I hold it at.....after all, what you are doing is rotating a nut by hitting it in a circular fashion.
    I don't even hold it in a vise to do this. Just support it a bit on a bench......the arm coming off the strut will stop it rotating.
    Doing up is the reverse. A cold chisel with a heavy hammer gives a lot of undoing and doing-up force, as the heavy hammer has a lot of momentum.
    Don't forget to lock the tabs again.

    The problem with trying to do it in the car without taking out the strut, is that (apart from locking tabs being hidden behind the dust plate on the inner side of the disc ) the strut is supported top and bottom, so if you undo the bottom, it tends to flap around (the top is mounted in rubber) when you REALLY need to keep it secured to undo/redo the ribbed nut screwing the thing onto the bottom of the strut.
    Last edited by Beano; 3rd August 2011 at 02:37 PM.

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    1000+ Posts catshamlet's Avatar
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    Thanks gents, I'll let you know how I get on........but it won't be for a while yet, now the nice weather's here I hate missing any opportunity to be out and about.



    Mike.
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  9. #9
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    My mechanic replaced the 505 strut ball joint on the car by counteracting the force of the stilsons by locking a 404 jack stem [ a 'T' section rod about 700mm long with notches for the jack to climb up] that somehow gripped the wheel studs. Under one and over the other I think. Will ask him in due course.
    Cheers, Glen.

  10. #10
    1000+ Posts catshamlet's Avatar
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    Just a quick one, when I finally get round to replacing the ball-joints, will I lose the fluid from the struts?

    I'm assuming I won't, but just checking.



    Mike.
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  11. #11
    1000+ Posts Beano's Avatar
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    No...you won't be taking off the suspension spring. And even if you were, you can do it without losing the fluid.
    Once you get it out, all you're taking off is the disc and brake dust plate. Plus the lower control arm, of course.

    Hang on a tic.....you ARE doing the ball joint underneath the macpherson strut, aren't you ? Because the track rod has an inner and outer ball joint. And with macpherson strut ball joints, it's common for the left one to get loose before the right.

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