405 s1 mi16 alternator
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  1. #1
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    Default 405 s1 mi16 alternator

    Hi,after an alternator for series1 mi16.

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  2. #2
    1000+ Posts PugMonkey's Avatar
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    I Have one but it needs a diode pack and regulator. Could be used for parts depending on what yours needs.

    Moo
    ....now watch a Peugeot turn into a corner!

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    Gidday Mark, I don't know what mine needs,just want to do same day change over.I no longer have your number,send a PM and I'll call.

    Dave.

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    1000+ Posts PugMonkey's Avatar
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    Aahh thats you Dave. Seen you on the highway a couple of times but I can never catch up!

    0407 914990
    ....now watch a Peugeot turn into a corner!

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    Thanks to Mark (pugmonkey) for the spare alternator. The auto elec used bits of both to make a gooden.

    Now the removal of the alternator on the mi16 is no easy task, it involves removing both inner plastic guards, removing front spoiler bolts (3 per side).
    Removing top and bottom mounting bolts for cast sub frame(radiator,fans etc. mount to this).
    Removing air con compressor(4 bolts, take note of the spacer placement).
    Remove tension pulley,belt and ease the front frame forward,creating enough room to remove the alternator.
    Took me 2 hours.

    Not much room in these things,even less in Pugmonkeys 205/mi16.
    I spook boy racers in the mi16, Mark gives them nightmares

    Thanks again Mark.

  6. #6
    1000+ Posts cav91's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xray View Post
    Thanks to Mark (pugmonkey) for the spare alternator. The auto elec used bits of both to make a gooden.

    Now the removal of the alternator on the mi16 is no easy task, it involves removing both inner plastic guards, removing front spoiler bolts (3 per side).
    Removing top and bottom mounting bolts for cast sub frame(radiator,fans etc. mount to this).
    Removing air con compressor(4 bolts, take note of the spacer placement).
    Remove tension pulley,belt and ease the front frame forward,creating enough room to remove the alternator.
    Took me 2 hours.

    Not much room in these things,even less in Pugmonkeys 205/mi16.
    I spook boy racers in the mi16, Mark gives them nightmares

    Thanks again Mark.

    WOW I've changed them plenty of times and never had to remove that much! The the ones with ABS are harder you have to remover the abs unit bolts and bend the pipes a little to get the unit to sit on the guard! Then you have easy access to the alternator. Pull off the inner guard and undo the tensionor and presto you have an alternator!!!
    406 D8 V6 manual

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    Yeah I didn't want to move the ABS and there was no way the thing was coming out any other way,unless the intake etc. was removed and that, I thought, might open a can of worms.
    I had done some panel beating in that area and was confident with the body parts removal.
    The alternator is made by mitsubishi,wish they were as easily removed as a magna's.

  8. #8
    1000+ Posts PeterT's Avatar
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    Why don't you remove the inlet manifold and make the most of the opportunity to replace/reco other parts at the same time? If they haven't been replaced already, the oil filler and breather hoses will crack as soon as you touch them, if they're not leaking already. You could also get the injectors reco'd, reseal the oil pressure sender switches etc. There's lots to clean up under there! Once inlet manifold is removed, the alternator is easy.

    '92 205 Mi16
    '90 Mi16x4

  9. #9
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    I have been using 2 batteries since the alternator stopped charging, I am not wanting to spend on this vehicle as the rego runs out Jan 12.
    Will be travelling for 12 mnths, so the joy of those repairs can be had by others.

  10. #10
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    Hi all
    I'm a newbie here,
    I am part way through replacing my brothers alternator ATM. (when I called it a night, lol)
    He has a 89 405 mi16.
    I managed (through much pain and discomfort) to undo all the bolts and wires, and the alternator is now free! Well kinda, we cant get it out because it is blocked by abs, inlet manifold etc...
    Any tips? What is the best way to attack this to make it as easy as possible. (would prefer to not undo manifold if possible).

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by bass_twitch View Post
    Hi all
    I'm a newbie here,
    I am part way through replacing my brothers alternator ATM. (when I called it a night, lol)
    He has a 89 405 mi16.
    I managed (through much pain and discomfort) to undo all the bolts and wires, and the alternator is now free! Well kinda, we cant get it out because it is blocked by abs, inlet manifold etc...
    Any tips? What is the best way to attack this to make it as easy as possible. (would prefer to not undo manifold if possible).
    This is process I went through to get some room, I didn't need to disconnect/remove any (brittle)hoses et cie.

    "Now the removal of the alternator on the mi16 is no easy task, it involves removing both inner plastic guards, removing front spoiler bolts (3 per side).
    Removing top and bottom mounting bolts for front sub frame(radiator,fans etc. mount to this).
    Removing air con compressor(4 bolts, take note of the spacer placement).
    Remove tension pulley,belt and ease the front frame forward,creating enough room to remove the alternator.
    Took me 2 hours."

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by xray View Post
    This is process I went through to get some room, I didn't need to disconnect/remove any (brittle)hoses et cie.

    "Now the removal of the alternator on the mi16 is no easy task, it involves removing both inner plastic guards, removing front spoiler bolts (3 per side).
    Removing top and bottom mounting bolts for front sub frame(radiator,fans etc. mount to this).
    Removing air con compressor(4 bolts, take note of the spacer placement).
    Remove tension pulley,belt and ease the front frame forward,creating enough room to remove the alternator.
    Took me 2 hours."
    Hi
    Yeh I saw that,
    Im just not confident removing the radiator/air con compressor, so was wondering if there were any other options. I also saw that someone said to undo the abs bolts, that seems a bit more plausible, but I was lookin at that last night and I wasn't sure how to attack it.

  13. #13
    1000+ Posts cav91's Avatar
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    much easier with the abs out the way. took me about 20 mins last time!
    406 D8 V6 manual

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    Oh excellent
    So what's the best way to move the abs? Just unbolt it, or is there anything I need to look out for?

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    bass_twitch, you will need to bend the abs pipe work to move the unit,I wasn't prepared to strain the steel brake pipes as they are prone to cracking.
    They probably won't, but............
    Last edited by xray; 5th October 2011 at 07:39 PM.

  16. #16
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    Hang on, just so I can visualize,
    Are you pulling the alternator out of the top or the bottom of the car?
    Hmm
    I just realized that I didn't really look at pulling it from underneath..
    Also thanks or all your help guys it's very appreciated

  17. #17
    1000+ Posts cav91's Avatar
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    From the top.
    Your not bending it far, because of how long the pipe is, its almost more like moving it. I've done it my cars probably 6 times (bloody mi16's), and never cracked a pipe!

    Very easy, to get at 3 10mm nuts on the alternator side of the unit. Then slide the unit towards the engine and up! Remember to undo the earth for the abs unit. Then remove the braket the abs unit was on. One bolt is a nut and bolt job in the wheel well!
    406 D8 V6 manual

  18. #18
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    Hey mate
    Thanks heaps! I got the bugger out today by moving the abs
    Just want to confirm something, how many wires should be connected to the alternator? Is it just the one that is screwed on at the back?

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    Quote Originally Posted by bass_twitch View Post
    Hey mate
    Thanks heaps! I got the bugger out today by moving the abs
    Just want to confirm something, how many wires should be connected to the alternator? Is it just the one that is screwed on at the back?
    should be a push on plastic plug with a couple as well

  20. #20
    Fellow Frogger! bass_twitch's Avatar
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    Hmm.. Can't seem to find that!

  21. #21
    Fellow Frogger! bass_twitch's Avatar
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    Any idea where the push in plastic bit sources from? Maybe I can trace it from the source?

  22. #22
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    runs out of the loom under the inlet manifold

  23. #23
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    So the loom that heads under the manifold from the left (drivers) side? Awesome, thanks I'll have a look and when I get a chance trace it with my hand and see if I can find it.

  24. #24
    Fellow Frogger! bass_twitch's Avatar
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    Alright so iv had a dam good look and feel around and I can't find the bloomin thing! I'm a bit worried because I have looked at the workshop manual and it should just plug in the Back, but there's no female plugs hanging anywhere under the manifold (iv followed the loom)
    Any other tips guys? This job is dragging on and I'm already starting to get tired of French cars! Lol
    Anywhere it could be hiding? There are a few thin wires but they are
    Already plugged into things... They have an AA on and a DD on them...

  25. #25
    1000+ Posts cav91's Avatar
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    Im not sure how reliable or usefull this is, or even how long it'll work!

    My 405 didn't have that wire either, so I made my own. direct power from ignition. Connected itand it still works. Although the downside is that i had to remove the battery light on the dash. But I put an aftermarket volt meter in to replace!

    But it still works!
    406 D8 V6 manual

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