Peugeot 306 power steering leak?
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  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Default Peugeot 306 power steering leak?

    Some leak at glance under the car , from the rack area?

    Where do they leak from?
    Rack end seals or the pipe junctions ?

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    Can the rack end seals be replaced without removing the rack?

    Any one been here before?

    Cheers Cas

  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger! deltone's Avatar
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    hey mate, im not sure as i have never been there but i have heard that the peugeot racks are preety good quality and last a very long time without issues. i would look at the hoses first, it could be from the crimp or maybe a crack in the metal fittings. None the less there are plenty of experienced people on here that can help you out, hang in there mate

    ps if you get stuck i have a spare good condition GTi6 steering rack if you need it.

    good luck
    205 GTi T16

    205 CTi

  3. #3
    Tadpole
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    No experience with pug steering racks but a bottle of Lucas Power Steering stop leak worked on my daughters Mazda 626.
    http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/onl...78#Description
    She was losing about 300ml in 3 days and this stuff reduced it to just a few drops a week.

    Valvster

  4. #4
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Default Stop leak

    how long did it take to work?
    1 or 2 bottles/

    Can get some when i go along the coast in a couple of days.

    Cas

  5. #5
    Tadpole
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    It's quite thick treacle like stuff so I just dumped a whole bottle in and it slowed to just a few overnight drips within a couple of days, I recall it says on the bottle you can use as much as you like. Reckon we probably used 4 bottles in 2.5 years, much cheaper than a reco steering rack.
    I've also used it on my Volvo 850 about 6 years ago, the rack had a minor weep at one end and it fixed it, still have some left in the bottle.
    Wynns have a stop leak product but it just looks and smells like diff oil, tried it on another car and it worked but you gotta wonder what it's really doing to the seals.
    If you put some in let us know how successuful it is

    Valvster

  6. #6
    Budding Architect ???? pugrambo's Avatar
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    motor bike fork oil will do the same to the seals

    BTW can i add that in the 306 and a few other cars it's not the rack that leaks, the rack has nothing to do with power steering

    it is power assisted steering so there is a hydraulic cylinder attached to the rack and this is the part that is easily removed to repair or replace

    if it was a hydraulic citroen then yes it is the rack, but in a lot of pugs (i say this as i haven't looked at the latest models) it is power assisted steering and there are no seals in the rack holding back power steering/ATF fluid

    also be careful of how much gum up/stop leak you use as you will gum up the vanes in the power steering pump and then you are going to be up for more $$$'s

    also last time i looked the 205 and 306 shared the same power steering cylinder but double check to make sure before you dive out and buy one
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  7. #7
    1000+ Posts jo proffi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by valvster View Post
    It's quite thick treacle like stuff so I just dumped a whole bottle in and it slowed to just a few overnight drips within a couple of days, I recall it says on the bottle you can use as much as you like. Reckon we probably used 4 bottles in 2.5 years, much cheaper than a reco steering rack.
    Depends how you do your math.
    My last rack re-seal cost $100 after I removed the rack.
    Maybe add a toe wheel alignment, another $30.
    When you weigh up the mess, degreaser, danger to motor cyclist etc not to mention the hassle of not knowing when the seals will pop in monumental style, the balance is not so heavily weighted upon the cheap option, which is not even a cheap fix because nothing has been fixed.

    Jo

  8. #8
    Fellow Frogger! N5GTi6's Avatar
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    The leak will be the ram. They leak at the seal where the shaft moves in and out of the ram body.

    No repair kits are available from memory. You might be able to source an aftermarket ram from somewhere but the genuine ones aren't too dear.

    One bolt through the ram into the rack (17), one nut on the shaft end of the ram (73), and two hydraulic union bolts (assembly 2). Not a difficult job but a little messy as the power steering fluid will drain when you undo the hydraulic unions at the ram.

    Do you have to keep topping up the power steering fluid ? Even red ATF fluid won't leave a red stain on the ground as it comes out in such small quantities at first that it just seems to leave a black mark when it drips.

    When you replace the ram make sure you leave the black plastic bag around the ram - it's the dust / dirt protector !

    Pugrambo is correct - the power steering fluid doesn't go through the rack on 306's.

    The ram is numbered '10' in the pic below :



    Cheers

    Justin
    '07 Megane R26
    '09 308XSE Touring

  9. #9
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    Justin,
    many , many thanks for a perfect reply.
    where did you get the parts diagram/

    i will have a close look at the weekend .
    I did see the bag around the ram ,but did not look inside.
    Does the bag stay on the ram when you take it off?

    How does the ram come away , do you have to remove the steering column shaft ?

    *No repair kits are available from memory. You might be able to source an aftermarket ram from somewhere but the genuine ones aren't too dear.
    I will contact Regan motors in Melbourne for a ram kit .
    Does the ram shaft have a screw in retaining cap/ circlip?
    Presume you just replace that seal and refit .

    I did spend a lot of time looking for a kit on ebay global, nothing.

    any thing else you can tell me about the repair/

    regards
    Cas

  10. #10
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Common leaks on 205/306 etc.
    Reservoir soft hose clamps - Replace clamps
    Leaking ram seal - Replace ram
    Leaking rack to ram hardlines usually at the flares. This is often caused by worn ram bushes, which in turn wear the flares down - Replace hardlines and check ram bush condition

    The ram is taken off with 2x T55 and 11mm for the flares. Its easy if the cross member is off, but can be done left on if you are tool handy.

    The bag is just a dust cover, if it is leaking from inside the bag you will know about it.
    Gil

  11. #11
    Fellow Frogger! N5GTi6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Berridale View Post
    Justin,
    many , many thanks for a perfect reply.
    where did you get the parts diagram/

    i will have a close look at the weekend .
    I did see the bag around the ram ,but did not look inside.
    Does the bag stay on the ram when you take it off?

    How does the ram come away , do you have to remove the steering column shaft ?

    *No repair kits are available from memory. You might be able to source an aftermarket ram from somewhere but the genuine ones aren't too dear.
    I will contact Regan motors in Melbourne for a ram kit .
    Does the ram shaft have a screw in retaining cap/ circlip?
    Presume you just replace that seal and refit .

    I did spend a lot of time looking for a kit on ebay global, nothing.

    any thing else you can tell me about the repair/

    regards
    Cas
    Cas,

    The diagram comes from Peugeot Service Box. You can register for free for Private customer access. It's invaluable just for the exploded diagrams available of every part of the car.

    http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

    Yes - the bag stays on the ram when you take it off - if it's still in one piece !

    To remove the ram, first safely raise the car so you can have access underneath, then remove the undertray, and the ram is easily accessed at the back of the engine from underneath. The access is so good you could remove the bolts with your forehead ! No Chinamans hands necessary !

    I rang everyone I could find about a rebuild kit for the 6, but none were available. Standard 306's have a slightly different ram so you could have better luck with a rebuild kit for a 'normal' 306 if you ring around.

    I used just over a litre of ATF to topup so found that 1 litre wasn't enough. I did drain the system very thoroughly though. Don't run the engine, and hence the power steering pump without fluid in it. The system is self bleeding once you fill the fluid back up again. Once it's all back together and you've filled up the fluid, you can start the engine and just wind the steering left and right a few times to bleed it. The pumping action pretty much removes all the air from the system.

    Use a flare nut spanner on the hydraulic unions. Much less chance of slipping the spanner and wrecking the union nuts.

    Cheers

    Justin
    '07 Megane R26
    '09 308XSE Touring

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