rotor changeover obn 306
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  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Default rotor changeover obn 306

    Hi fellow puggers. I'm doing (was doing???) the rotor change over on my 306 this morning when I found that the Torx bit I was using (T 30 bit- correct size) was turning the torx bolt into licorice. So I stopped; wondering why they made such a small torx bolt when they could have gone for a hex or allen style head of a more substantial side?

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    Anyone got any ideas?
    Keith

  2. #2
    Tadpole
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    Penetrating oil and then try an impact driver to break the rust "lock". If the heads get too mangled, you may have drill out the heads and remove the screw remnants with locking pliers. Worst case may mean you end up drilling and retapping the holes

    Replace with countersunk Phillips head screws from an engineering supplier

  3. #3
    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by leothepug View Post
    Hi fellow puggers. I'm doing (was doing???) the rotor change over on my 306 this morning when I found that the Torx bit I was using (T 30 bit- correct size) was turning the torx bolt into licorice. So I stopped; wondering why they made such a small torx bolt when they could have gone for a hex or allen style head of a more substantial side?

    Anyone got any ideas?
    Keith
    First try would be soak overnight in an lube spray. Then tackle the bolt with a cold chisel, centre punch or similar. The idea is attack the the outside of the head tangentially with a hammer and punch/chisel and to try and rotate the bolt anticlockwise. Once the rust is broken vice grips will usually turn it. You could try some heat, I'm guessing it's been loctited. Heat breaks the locktite bond.

    Second try,if you have an arc weld or a mig welder, weld another hex head bolt on the (mangled) torx head. The heat helps to loosen the rust and then you can get some purchase of the bolt.

    I haven't seen the bolts so if you don't have good access forget the idea.

    Third try is grind the bolt head off with power file or angle grinder and after soaking attack the protruding bolt shank with vice grips or slip a nut over it and weld.

    It's rarely you get to number three method.

    I never put torx back. If it's corrosion prone replace with a stainless cap screw with a female hex head.
    Last edited by robmac; 22nd April 2011 at 08:44 PM.

  4. #4
    mlb
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    Give Freeze n Release by Loctite a go. Bloody good stuff. I'd try it if the Penetrene didn't work, and before using the heavy duty solutions such as chisels etc. Once the hardware comes out, it's pretty much a one way street from there and can get messy quickly.

    Matt
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    Budding Architect ???? pugrambo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mlb View Post
    Give Freeze n Release by Loctite a go. Bloody good stuff. I'd try it if the Penetrene didn't work, and before using the heavy duty solutions such as chisels etc. Once the hardware comes out, it's pretty much a one way street from there and can get messy quickly.

    Matt
    true but it is fun

    another thing is to try striking the head of the bolt with a hammer, this is the first thing i do to break the tension/hold
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  6. #6
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    thanx fellows for suggestions will try freeze and release, then hit with impact driver - I gotta buy one on wednesday when shops open again. Countersunk heads on bolts, will replace em with quality allan head bolt, hex wont fit, torx are stupid ideas. Such a small bolt for what it does. must've been designed with engineering theory and not common sense.

  7. #7
    sans witticism SLC206's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by leothepug View Post
    Countersunk heads on bolts, will replace em with quality allan head bolt, hex wont fit, torx are stupid ideas. Such a small bolt for what it does. must've been designed with engineering theory and not common sense.
    On the contrary, those particular screws only need nipping up - as they don't do anything once the wheel is bolted on - and most people when installing them either swing off them or use loctite (or a combination of the two).

    It's not nice for the next poor sole that has to undo them.
    Regards,

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  8. #8
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    Default torx bolts

    If they only need nipping up why then are they loctited so much that the correct tool rips the the head to shreds when tryn to undo them. Why arent they put in with threads lightly greased? Whatever the technical reason it appears that it hasn't been well workd out!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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    Budding Architect ???? pugrambo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by leothepug View Post
    If they only need nipping up why then are they loctited so much that the correct tool rips the the head to shreds when tryn to undo them. Why arent they put in with threads lightly greased? Whatever the technical reason it appears that it hasn't been well workd out!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    you can't account for lard arsed mechanics that don't give a toss

    the only guarantee you ever have is to buy a car new and do it all yourself
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  10. #10
    1000+ Posts jo proffi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by leothepug View Post
    torx are stupid ideas. Such a small bolt for what it does. must've been designed with engineering theory and not common sense.
    Bollocks.
    Torx are used to allow the (robot) tool arm to be positioned at a greater angle of line than other fasteners would allow.

    There was a time when i too didn't like torx fasteners and would strip the threads.

    I now love them as they are the friendliest faster for power drivers. In fact I'd go as far as saying the torx stay in better nick when driven fast and evenly as opposed to driven randomly crooked by hand with a ratchet handle.

    If you dont have quality torx bits, get some and never have these issues again.
    Follow all the advice given already, like using WD or penetrating fluid, giving it a whack to crack it, and you should avoid drama.
    There are torx screws and bolts on my car that have been removed 4 or 5 times, and still look like new.
    Jo

  11. #11
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    I can see Torx are easy and all that but a 4-6mm shank (well I guess it would be about that size lookn at the head of the bolt) appears not to be the size needed for the job (rotor to hub). i've got good torx bits! the head of the 1st bolt got slightly mangled. Getn Freeze'n'Releases from autobarn now

    Thanx for all hoo replied.

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  12. #12
    sans witticism SLC206's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by leothepug View Post
    If they only need nipping up why then are they loctited so much that the correct tool rips the the head to shreds when tryn to undo them.
    Who knows?

    Let's face it - most people just love doing stuff up too tight. Taking it one step further and putting loctite on as well makes them feel even better
    Regards,

    Simon

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  13. #13
    Fellow Frogger! paulrb's Avatar
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    Default Torx arsed

    I've had this problem before... mine were pre-ruined by some over zealous mechanic.

    I drilled them out.. with a bit smaller than the thread size obviously. Once you cut through the head and it twists off, the threaded part of the bolt just works its' way further into the hole (from the force and vibration of the drilling) and out the other side!!!! Of course then I replaced them. I was lucky that one was removable before drilling, and I went to a bolt shop and bought a hand full of replacements to put straight in before I got the drill out.


    Seriously just drill the buggers out if you can't get them out otherwise...
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