205gti 1987
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  1. #1
    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    Default 205gti 1987

    I am looking at buying this '87 205GTI and have a few questions for the more knowledgeable folk here.

    The car has a little thicker oil than necessary to control an oil burning issue (over 200k km done).

    What could this issue be?

    Worn rings, worn valve guides, anything else? What?

    The car is very responsive and litterally tears the bottom of you pants even when driven with a light foot which is really surprising to me.

    Where are the two drain channels for the sunroof supposed to drain? (has some rust up there, perhaps the channels are blocked, but not surewhere they come out.

    How much is it for the parts needed to do a cambelt change? (belt, tensioner(s), waterpump, anything else I can't think of right now).

    Steering a bit heavy at low speeds and tight lock.

    Gearstick very floppy, hope it can be redone easily, nice and tight.

    How much for engine/g'box mounts (all of them)? Where to get parts good/original (preferably in Aus)?

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    Thank you anyone who can help.
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

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    Where are the two drain channels for the sunroof supposed to drain? (has some rust up there, perhaps the channels are blocked, but not surewhere they come out.
    ### they should be 'under' your A pillars. Leaves are a notorius problem with these...doesnt hurt to stick a plastic piping down there to clear.

    How much is it for the parts needed to do a cambelt change? (belt, tensioner(s), waterpump, anything else I can't think of right now).
    ### between 200-300$ for belt, tension and pump. I have a brand new set spare at way below cost :]
    Drop links . $250 Wishbone bushes $?

    Steering a bit heavy at low speeds and tight lock.
    ## this is normal for a series 1....once up to speed they are great.

    Gearstick very floppy, hope it can be redone easily, nice and tight.
    ## another problem common to these cars......probably just needs new linkages

    How much for engine/g'box mounts (all of them)? Where to get parts good/original (preferably in Aus)?
    ### up to $300 pending where you shop. EAI in Melb, Caravelle in Syd. many more
    jr20516v

    Now:
    Exige SC [modded], 205 Si. 205 GTi , Megane R26 LY , Megane 225 [modded ]


    Previous: Honda EP3 Supercharged , 205 x34 [ including MI16 TURBO, 8v TURBO, CTI, 16V+TB's, 8V+TB's,] Fiat X1-9 X3, Beta coupes x5, Lancia Gamma coupe, GTI-R, Corvette C4, Fiero x5, Alpine GTA turbo, r5 GTT Dimma, 2cv ripple nose, Lotus Elise, 205 Dimma TT, Cliosport 172.x2, Clio rs 200

  3. #3
    1000+ Posts jo proffi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by schlitzaugen View Post
    Where are the two drain channels for the sunroof supposed to drain? (has some rust up there, perhaps the channels are blocked, but not surewhere they come out.
    I've only ever had a 4 drain internal roof, but without trying to be a smart ass they drain downwards.
    All mine have had clear hose going down to both inner guards, through the A and C pillar
    I'd be finding where they exit and blowing them back with air, as often palm kernels or such get wedged in the pipe and forcing them through will end in tears.


    Jo

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    Quote Originally Posted by jr20516v View Post
    Where are the two drain channels for the sunroof supposed to drain? (has some rust up there, perhaps the channels are blocked, but not surewhere they come out.
    ### they should be 'under' your A pillars. Leaves are a notorius problem with these...doesnt hurt to stick a plastic piping down there to clear.

    How much is it for the parts needed to do a cambelt change? (belt, tensioner(s), waterpump, anything else I can't think of right now).
    ### between 200-300$ for belt, tension and pump. I have a brand new set spare at way below cost :]
    Drop links . $250 Wishbone bushes $?

    Steering a bit heavy at low speeds and tight lock.
    ## this is normal for a series 1....once up to speed they are great.

    Gearstick very floppy, hope it can be redone easily, nice and tight.
    ## another problem common to these cars......probably just needs new linkages

    How much for engine/g'box mounts (all of them)? Where to get parts good/original (preferably in Aus)?
    ### up to $300 pending where you shop. EAI in Melb, Caravelle in Syd. many more
    John, Caravelle prices are way cheaper than what you've quoted here.
    Graham

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    Probably are Graham however i dont know where Schlitz lives as you cant tell from his side info [i wish peeps would place the proper city they live to help others help the OP better]

    I dont think anyone company has all cheaper parts.....one must shop around. As i did with a recent timing belt,pump etc..... i phoned four and the difference was a staggering $100 between the top quote and the bottom.
    jr20516v

    Now:
    Exige SC [modded], 205 Si. 205 GTi , Megane R26 LY , Megane 225 [modded ]


    Previous: Honda EP3 Supercharged , 205 x34 [ including MI16 TURBO, 8v TURBO, CTI, 16V+TB's, 8V+TB's,] Fiat X1-9 X3, Beta coupes x5, Lancia Gamma coupe, GTI-R, Corvette C4, Fiero x5, Alpine GTA turbo, r5 GTT Dimma, 2cv ripple nose, Lotus Elise, 205 Dimma TT, Cliosport 172.x2, Clio rs 200

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    Quote Originally Posted by schlitzaugen View Post

    The car is very responsive and litterally tears the bottom of you pants even when driven with a light foot which is really surprising to me.

    Where are the two drain channels for the sunroof supposed to drain? (has some rust up there, perhaps the channels are blocked, but not surewhere they come out.

    .
    Performance is normal - that's why people like these cars.

    Rust in the roo? Get another one, preferably without a sunroof. 205s are not rare, although good ones are.

    Tim

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    Quote Originally Posted by schlitzaugen View Post
    I
    Gearstick very floppy, hope it can be redone easily, nice and tight.

    How much for engine/g'box mounts (all of them)? Where to get parts good/original (preferably in Aus)?

    Thank you anyone who can help.
    BakerBM do a group N engine mount kit which is very good and surprisingly cheap the fully kit is 87 pounds.

    The gearstick thing will be 1 or a combination of 3 things:
    1) worn bush on the front subframe pivot
    2) worn bush on the gearstick pivot
    3) play in the balljoints in the gearlinkages

    again BakerBM do an upgrade kits for all those components.

  8. #8
    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    Thank you very much, everybody.

    Does anyone know how much a piston/liner/ring kit would cost for these cars?

    I live in WA, but I don't find this relevant as there is no supplier here for these cars, so everything has to come from interstate or overseas.
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

    Das computermachine is nicht fur gefingerpoken und mittengrabben. Ist easy schnappen der springenwerk, blowenfusen und poppencorken mit spitssparken. Ist nicht fur gewerken bei das dummkopfen. Das rubbernecken sightseeren keepen hands in das pockets-relaxen und watch das blinkenlights.

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    Quote Originally Posted by schlitzaugen View Post
    Thank you very much, everybody.

    Does anyone know how much a piston/liner/ring kit would cost for these cars?

    I live in WA, but I don't find this relevant as there is no supplier here for these cars, so everything has to come from interstate or overseas.
    I got a set for the later engines, DKZ and 130 hp, and paid less than $500 from Caravelle.
    Worth giving them a call to see if they have the early ones in stock, but would be better to get a DKZ out of a late S1 405 or Citroen BX TZi or TRi 122, and rebuild that, while your driving around with the present engine.
    Caravelle have found a supplier with stocks for the earlier models so worth a try also for 505 and 504.
    03 9890 9061.
    Graham

  10. #10
    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GRAHAM WALLIS View Post
    I got a set for the later engines, DKZ and 130 hp, and paid less than $500 from Caravelle.
    Worth giving them a call to see if they have the early ones in stock, but would be better to get a DKZ out of a late S1 405 or Citroen BX TZi or TRi 122, and rebuild that, while your driving around with the present engine.
    Caravelle have found a supplier with stocks for the earlier models so worth a try also for 505 and 504.
    03 9890 9061.
    Graham

    Thank you very much, Graham.

    This would require an engine transplant, wouldn't it?

    I would be much more happy to keep the present lump(block) if I can fit the DKZ kit in it. Is this possible?

    Is the late S1 405 you refer to an alloy block?
    Last edited by schlitzaugen; 26th March 2011 at 02:51 PM.
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

    Das computermachine is nicht fur gefingerpoken und mittengrabben. Ist easy schnappen der springenwerk, blowenfusen und poppencorken mit spitssparken. Ist nicht fur gewerken bei das dummkopfen. Das rubbernecken sightseeren keepen hands in das pockets-relaxen und watch das blinkenlights.

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    Quote Originally Posted by schlitzaugen View Post
    Thank you very much, Graham.

    THis wouyld require an engine transplant, wouldn't it?

    I would be much more happy to keep the present lump(block) if I can fit the DKZ kit in it. Is this possible?

    Is the late S1 405 you refer to an alloy block?
    You will need a later model head or the compression will be too low, the early head has larger combustion chambers.
    This will give you bigger valves as well.
    I have an Si head which is the same as the DKZ but with a milder cam.
    It has no cam at present so you could fit your original, I've heard these cams work well with the DKZ 9.4 to one compression and bigger valves.
    I only want $50 for the head.
    Yes series 1 405 is alloy block.
    Graham

  12. #12
    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jo proffi View Post
    I've only ever had a 4 drain internal roof, but without trying to be a smart ass they drain downwards.

    [...]

    Jo

    Kinda guessed that when I noticed the roof is at the top.

    Nah, you're alright.

    Just wanted to save my rooting around trying to find the other end of the drains (the mouths are obvious).

    Graham, I have not yet taken delivery of the car, so don't have any plans for now. Just want to see what kind of money pit I got myself into again. I will however remember your offer if you don't mind.

    So let's review again so I can remember this.

    Series 1 405 is an alloy block. Any 405 or perhaps a certain one like a Mi16 or whatever?

    Is this block the same as the 205? (are all 205 blocks the same?)

    What's the compression on the '87 model I have?
    Last edited by schlitzaugen; 27th March 2011 at 02:43 AM.
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

    Das computermachine is nicht fur gefingerpoken und mittengrabben. Ist easy schnappen der springenwerk, blowenfusen und poppencorken mit spitssparken. Ist nicht fur gewerken bei das dummkopfen. Das rubbernecken sightseeren keepen hands in das pockets-relaxen und watch das blinkenlights.

  13. #13
    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    I have finally taken the Pug home. It was an unpleasant experience though.

    I have filled up with BP98 and the car died on the highway so it got home on the back of a tow truck.

    I checked the electrics, the battery is cranking hard, but it seems there is no fuel. Fuel pump is the suspect, so I need to know from you guys if it should buzz when the ignition is switched on (before cranking) as I have noticed on other FI cars. Mine doesn't buzz at all so I suspect it's dead. Is this right? Is there any chance 98 fuel would have affected the pump (don't think so, but who knows)?

    It looks like I need the two gooseneck hoses that run into the intake (from filter to AFM, and AFM to plenum(?)), as well as the air filter box and the hose that enters from the pickup point, and the plastic thingie at the pickup point. Anyone has any for sale? Car is July 87. See link for the layout.

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/3206822565/
    Last edited by schlitzaugen; 28th March 2011 at 08:32 PM.
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

    Das computermachine is nicht fur gefingerpoken und mittengrabben. Ist easy schnappen der springenwerk, blowenfusen und poppencorken mit spitssparken. Ist nicht fur gewerken bei das dummkopfen. Das rubbernecken sightseeren keepen hands in das pockets-relaxen und watch das blinkenlights.

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    My fuel pump doesn't make that distinct buzzing noise you hear in Holden's etc. (at least you don't hear it from the driver's seat). Are you sure it's fuel? Before you go replacing the pump check your ignition - the ignition amplifier on mine was the culprit, along with the wire running from the distributor to the ignition amplifier. There are ways to test the fuel pump too... disconnect the pressure hose and feed it into a drain pan or a bottle. have a mate briefly turn the ignition on... I've never heard of premium fuel knackering fuel pumps.

    Some of my inlet piping is starting to perish too - I've made some inquiries but it seems like the parts are NLA. If yours are chronic and irrepairable you might be better off with a Pipercross kit or something similar, although I'm not a big fan of an exposed pod filter so you might want to box it. If you do happen to find some of that piping I'd be very interested so keep us posted.

    Good luck! You won't regret buying one of these things even if they are a bit of work.

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    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    I have tested the spark and it's there. Not sure how good it is. Where is this amplifier you talk about?

    Cranking the engine sounds like it doesn't have fuel coming to it. Kinda like an old carby car before the carby fills up. Cranks easily and it is obviously trying to ignite, but it feels like there is ver little fuel to ignite.
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

    Das computermachine is nicht fur gefingerpoken und mittengrabben. Ist easy schnappen der springenwerk, blowenfusen und poppencorken mit spitssparken. Ist nicht fur gewerken bei das dummkopfen. Das rubbernecken sightseeren keepen hands in das pockets-relaxen und watch das blinkenlights.

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    The ignition amplifier is a black box the size of a matchbox that is bolted to an aluminium plate under the coil on the passenger-side of the engine bay. It has quite a large terminal going into it from the bottom with about six or seven wires.

    If you've got spark then it looks like you might be barking up the right tree.

  17. #17
    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    Yes, I think so too, the power just tapered off at full chat doing 100km/h on the freeway, as if the fuel had stopped coming into the engine, perhaps the pump died and the remaining pressure took a little bit to die down.

    How do I check the cold start injector (even though I imagine with a hot engine, the cold start would be bypassed)?
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

    Das computermachine is nicht fur gefingerpoken und mittengrabben. Ist easy schnappen der springenwerk, blowenfusen und poppencorken mit spitssparken. Ist nicht fur gewerken bei das dummkopfen. Das rubbernecken sightseeren keepen hands in das pockets-relaxen und watch das blinkenlights.

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