AT last!! My 505 5sp, with ZN3J 2.8 ltr even fire PRV engine has arrived.
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  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! Ikenna351's Avatar
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    Default AT last!! My 505 5sp, with ZN3J 2.8 ltr even fire PRV engine has arrived.

    Hi all,

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    Am really a happy man today. The car, which was supposed to arrive last Wednesday, 19/01/2011, instead arrived today, 21/01/2011, at 7.30pm. I will tell the full story, with some pictures attached tomorrow morning. I couldnt take pics cos its night already.
    It has finally become a reality that am a 505 V6 owner!!

    Ikenna.

  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Default Congratulations!

    Seems like you have gone to a lot of effort to join the select band. My 505 V6 station wagon is a french car nutters dream for hauling bits and people!

  3. #3
    pur-john, not pew-john! peujohn's Avatar
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    Great news! Looking forward to the pics.
    John W

    1979 Peugeot 504 GTI 2.2 litre 5 speed - 72 kW at the wheels

    1974 Peugeot 504 TI
    - now on the road

    2009 Peugeot 407 HDI wagon - family car

    Previous: 2005 407 HDI manual sedan, 1980 504 GL, 1990 405 Mi16, 1977 504 GL Special, 1984 505 SRD Turbo



  4. #4
    Fellow Frogger! Ikenna351's Avatar
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    Hi everyone.

    Well, like i said, it arrived safely on Friday, 21/01/2011, at exactly 7.30pm. When I saw the car from afar,from the way the car looks, i felt so happy and proud to own such a car. As soon as i got to the car, I quickly dashed to the engine bay. Behold!! The ZN3J, the 2.8 ltr even-fire PRV engine was starring back at me. I was overjoyed. Though, it was dark, but I could see and hear the engine roaring like a Lion, the King of the Lions!!

    On driving it home, I realised that it was a coverted car. That is, originally, it was either GTI or GTD Turbo, but now with ZN3J (V6) engine in the engine bay. It isnt a standard 505 V6. Yes, I felt disappointed knowing this at such a time. I felt bad not because i didnt like the car, but because i wont enjoy all the specifications/features V6 had. The instrument cluster isnt 505 V6 own, it is the GTI type, which is very annoying. No ABS and variable ratio power steering. Just the conventional brake and power steering. It has A/C anyway, still in good condition. The 15'' alloy wheels on it isnt the V6 type, rather the GTI type. I really realised then the need for one to first see a car with your very two eyes before purchasing, not what you are told.

    But at a point, it occured to me that it could be a blessing in Disguise. I have heard so much about how difficult it is to repair Teves Mark II ABS. Also the vented ABS front brake disc scarcity issue. The only two things i would have love to have in that car is the V6 instrument cluster and probably, the variable ratio Power steering. But honestly, each time i hear the ZN3J roaring, i forget all about what the car lacks. I love that impressive noise.

    Today, i took it to a mechanic workshop to have the Differential replaced for me, due to noise it was making yesterday. After the replacement, i test drived it, but something else started making terrible noise under the car while the car was gaining speed, which couldnt be the Differential this time. The mechanic while replacing the diff for me noted that the propeller shaft head has been replaced by the previous owner. That it would be better if i would replace the entire propeller shaft. Maybe, the culprit now is the propeller shaft. Maybe the mechanic didnt install the differetial properly. Or maybe, its the hub centre bearing. Because it was already dark, i couldnt dive back to the mechanic workshop to lay my complain. I drove it home in that condition. But it wasnt affecting the car speed. The noise and vibration started when the car speed exceeded 100km/h. Immediately, I stopped accelating and neutralised the gear. The noise stopped. But after a while, the noise continued, even though i wasnt accelerating anymore.

    Another problem the car has is it misfires and stalls while idling, especially when you want to add more gas or rev a little bit. I wouldnt know if it has to do with the injectors, spark pugs or the air filter. Its no longer emitting black smoke. Also while idling, the sound will be going up and down continuously. I didnt have time to look into what might be the cause and fix it because of the differential replacement, which took the whole day at the workshop. I noticed in the engine bay that some of the wiring connectors were left unconnected by those that made the conversion. I just hope that wont be the cause of the misfiring, hesitating and stalling of the engine.

    You see, of all the faults i have mentioned above, the car still impress me. The way and manner the engine responds to acceleration, its very impressive. In fact, 4 words to describe the car "It Goes Like Rocket!!"

    Attached below are some of the car pictures i took at home this morning and at the mechanic workshop, while the work was going on.


    Ikenna
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails AT last!! My 505 5sp, with ZN3J 2.8 ltr even fire PRV engine has arrived.-22012011142%5B1%5D.jpg   AT last!! My 505 5sp, with ZN3J 2.8 ltr even fire PRV engine has arrived.-22012011145%5B1%5D.jpg   AT last!! My 505 5sp, with ZN3J 2.8 ltr even fire PRV engine has arrived.-22012011146%5B1%5D.jpg   AT last!! My 505 5sp, with ZN3J 2.8 ltr even fire PRV engine has arrived.-22012011150%5B1%5D.jpg   AT last!! My 505 5sp, with ZN3J 2.8 ltr even fire PRV engine has arrived.-22012011151%5B1%5D.jpg   AT last!! My 505 5sp, with ZN3J 2.8 ltr even fire PRV engine has arrived.-22012011153%5B1%5D.jpg  

    AT last!! My 505 5sp, with ZN3J 2.8 ltr even fire PRV engine has arrived.-22012011154%5B1%5D.jpg   AT last!! My 505 5sp, with ZN3J 2.8 ltr even fire PRV engine has arrived.-22012011155%5B1%5D.jpg   AT last!! My 505 5sp, with ZN3J 2.8 ltr even fire PRV engine has arrived.-22012011158%5B3%5D.jpg   AT last!! My 505 5sp, with ZN3J 2.8 ltr even fire PRV engine has arrived.-22012011159%5B1%5D.jpg  

  5. #5
    pur-john, not pew-john! peujohn's Avatar
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    So what's the story with the 505, Ikenna? Where did you buy it? How did you find it?
    John W

    1979 Peugeot 504 GTI 2.2 litre 5 speed - 72 kW at the wheels

    1974 Peugeot 504 TI
    - now on the road

    2009 Peugeot 407 HDI wagon - family car

    Previous: 2005 407 HDI manual sedan, 1980 504 GL, 1990 405 Mi16, 1977 504 GL Special, 1984 505 SRD Turbo



  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger!
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    My guess is that the drive shaft is bent, not a huge problem as they are widely available. The V6 and 505 turbo have larger diameter driveshafts and the fact that your car is a conversion means you should check carefully. Also, make sure the torque tube is intact, they tend to separate at the welds of the plate that attaches to the differential.

    As for the car being a GTi conversion, I would consider this a bonus, not a negative. My 505 V6 had the worst handling, steering and braking than all my five oh's; the variable assist steering is a piece of crap with no feedback, the ABS hard to modulate and flimsy, the rotors are made of unobtainium, the slanted front springs a step down from the older style stub-axles, the series 2 wheels 2 kilos heavier EACH than the ones now on your car. As for the dash, who cares, so smile, you got the best of both worlds: a good GTi with a V6. Not to mention the undercover aspect of the car: looks like a GTi, goes like a V6. As for the running problems, I would get the injectors tested and cleaned ASAP, the valves adjusted, then cylinder pressures and fuel pressure measured, new spark plugs and sparkplug wires, then test again. Timing the engine properly is also an issue with this evenfire, I will look for the shop manual as it is a bit tricky; hopefully I have not tossed it.

  7. #7
    pur-john, not pew-john! peujohn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thanos View Post
    ... the slanted front springs a step down from the older style stub-axles...
    Not sure what you mean there Thanos, could you explain? People have been telling me that GTI series 2 struts are better than series 1, something to do with the way the springs were angled or something...
    John W

    1979 Peugeot 504 GTI 2.2 litre 5 speed - 72 kW at the wheels

    1974 Peugeot 504 TI
    - now on the road

    2009 Peugeot 407 HDI wagon - family car

    Previous: 2005 407 HDI manual sedan, 1980 504 GL, 1990 405 Mi16, 1977 504 GL Special, 1984 505 SRD Turbo



  8. #8
    Demannu-facturing! Demannu's Avatar
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    John, I think Thanos is alluding to the fact that the V6 struts are completely different to the normal 505 struts. The front end of the V6 more closely resembles a 405, with single-piece combined lower control arms and radius arms.

    Combine that with the variable rate power assistance, and the ABS brakes, and virtually nothing is compatible with the V6/Turbo model and the lesser models in the front suspension, brakes and steering. It is a different car.
    Scotty

    Melbourne - Dandenong Ranges

    1956 Peugeot 403 - 'Francois' - resto project

    1969 Peugeot 504 - 'Pascal' - daily driver project

    1970 Peugeot 404 Utility - 'Brutus' - resto project

    1978 Peugeot 604 - as yet unnamed - V6 on straight LPG

    1987 Peugeot 505 - as yet unnamed - project car

    1999 Peugeot 406 Coupé - 'Chloe' - 5 speed manual

    2011 Peugeot 3008 XTE HDi - 'Zoe' - hatchback on steroids

    2014 Peugeot RCZ - 'Remy'

    1999 Range Rover 4.6 HSE - 'Grover' - tow car

  9. #9
    Fellow Frogger! Ikenna351's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thanos View Post
    My guess is that the drive shaft is bent, not a huge problem as they are widely available. The V6 and 505 turbo have larger diameter driveshafts and the fact that your car is a conversion means you should check carefully. Also, make sure the torque tube is intact, they tend to separate at the welds of the plate that attaches to the differential.

    As for the car being a GTi conversion, I would consider this a bonus, not a negative. My 505 V6 had the worst handling, steering and braking than all my five oh's; the variable assist steering is a piece of crap with no feedback, the ABS hard to modulate and flimsy, the rotors are made of unobtainium, the slanted front springs a step down from the older style stub-axles, the series 2 wheels 2 kilos heavier EACH than the ones now on your car. As for the dash, who cares, so smile, you got the best of both worlds: a good GTi with a V6. Not to mention the undercover aspect of the car: looks like a GTi, goes like a V6. As for the running problems, I would get the injectors tested and cleaned ASAP, the valves adjusted, then cylinder pressures and fuel pressure measured, new spark plugs and sparkplug wires, then test again. Timing the engine properly is also an issue with this evenfire, I will look for the shop manual as it is a bit tricky; hopefully I have not tossed it.

    Thonos, are you suggesting that it could be the driveshaft that is bent or the propeller shaft? The right rear wheel was hot when I arrived home yesterday, after the differential replacement. Are you saying it could be the driveshaft of that wheel? I called one of my mechanic where I grew up and he said it could be the Differential hanger (Bushing) or the propeller shaft.

    Ikenna.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ikenna351 View Post
    Thonos, are you suggesting that it could be the driveshaft that is bent or the propeller shaft? The right rear wheel was hot when I arrived home yesterday, after the differential replacement. Are you saying it could be the driveshaft of that wheel? I called one of my mechanic where I grew up and he said it could be the Differential hanger (Bushing) or the propeller shaft.

    Ikenna.
    I did mean the propeller shaft, the piece that connects the transmission to the differential.

    It's quite easy to check if the diff bushing is cut, but generally you hear a clanking rather than a grinding noise.

    As for one of the wheels being hot, the reason is not immediately apparent to me.

    You have to expect a few issues with a car that age, I am sure that once they are sorted out you will be very happy with your purchase.

  11. #11
    Fellow Frogger! Ikenna351's Avatar
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    I took the car to a mechanic workshop, to diagnose the noise coming from the propeller tube when the car is on speed. The mechanic discovered that the propeller tube centre bearing had spoilt. And that the two heads of the propeller shaft had been replaced with nockle heads. so he suggested that i also replaced the propeller shaft, incase it was the cause of the center bearing failure, i.e, that the replaced heads were not straightened properly while replacing them. So, i gave him a spare propeller shaft, from a donor car 505 Series 1, to replace with the ones in the vehicle. He also changed the centre bearing. After the work, i tried to move the car, but the two rear wheels werent making any move. Only for someone else to blame the mechanic for not checking the lenght of the shaft before replacing/installing it in the tube. According to the man, the 505 Turbo/V6 propeller shaft and tube is longer than the other 505s. After wasting so much money and time, i will have to look for turbo propeller shaft, buy and still pay for the replacement. Its very annoying . Though, another mechanic i asked said that the failure of the centre bearing had nothing to do with previous propeller shaft in the car tube. That i should ask the mechanic to put back the previous shaft, since i have already changed the centre bearing, which he believed was the cause of the noise. So please, is he right? Or should i go ahead and buy another right sized proppeller shaft? Or should i removed the two nockle heads on the previous propeller in the car and remove the shorter one heads and weld them on the longer shaft?

    Another issue the car is having is that when the engine is cold, it misfires a little and stalls when trying to accelerate. Also, while idling, the sound goes up and down. But everything stops once the engine warms up. My friend, Scotty, advised me to clean the Idle air control valve, whcih i did yesterday and thought the problem has gone. Only for it to continue the problem this morning. I have checked for vacuum leaks, but didnt see any or yet to see. Someone suggested that i should clean all the injectors, to fix the problem. But remember, these problems varnishe once the engine is warm. The engine then revs and sounds smoothly. Please, what could be the fault?

    So please, Scotty, Thanos, Salman, others, please help!!

    Ikenna.
    Last edited by Ikenna351; 28th January 2011 at 06:56 AM.

  12. #12
    Demannu-facturing! Demannu's Avatar
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    Ikenna,

    The centre bearing probably failed because it had not been greased regularly. A very common problem, it is often, in fact almost always overlooked on servicing. It should be greased every time you do an oil change on the engine.

    If the splines on both ends of the tailshaft are still in good condition, I would reuse it. Make sure you put plenty of good quality high-pressure grease on the splines too.

    Did you adjust the idle air bypass screw on the throttle body after you cleaned the idle speed control valve? You may need to do this when the engine is cold to get the most accurate setting.

    Another thing to check, what is the condition of your battery? If your battery is draining a lot of power from the alternator, the voltage reaching your fuel pump may drop at low RPMs, causing the engine to fluctuate. The ECU will try to compensate by increasing the idle speed, which will then cause the voltage to rise again, more fuel, and therefore excess idle speed, so the ECU will again try to adapt and drop the idle speed, etc, etc. Just something to check. With a multimeter, check the battery voltage and have someone start the car. It shouldn't drop below 10.5 volts during starting, and should immediately jump up to at least 13.5 volts and not drop below that point even if the engine revs are changing. If it drops below this, it could indicate a battery or alternator problem.
    Scotty

    Melbourne - Dandenong Ranges

    1956 Peugeot 403 - 'Francois' - resto project

    1969 Peugeot 504 - 'Pascal' - daily driver project

    1970 Peugeot 404 Utility - 'Brutus' - resto project

    1978 Peugeot 604 - as yet unnamed - V6 on straight LPG

    1987 Peugeot 505 - as yet unnamed - project car

    1999 Peugeot 406 Coupé - 'Chloe' - 5 speed manual

    2011 Peugeot 3008 XTE HDi - 'Zoe' - hatchback on steroids

    2014 Peugeot RCZ - 'Remy'

    1999 Range Rover 4.6 HSE - 'Grover' - tow car

  13. #13
    1000+ Posts Beano's Avatar
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    The right rear wheel was hot ? If it was a sedan, I would say that the handbrake was sticking in the "on" position on that side only (happens to 504s and 505s all the time when they get old ). But it is a station wagon, right ? With drum brakes ?
    All the same, the most simple explanation is that the brakes are dragging on that side. It's simple to check : chock the front wheels, take off the handbrake and put gears into neutral, jack up the right rear corner and spin the wheel. ( Or TRY to ).
    Last edited by Beano; 28th January 2011 at 08:28 PM.

  14. #14
    Fellow Frogger! Ikenna351's Avatar
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    UPDATE:

    I made a terrible mistake on Friday, which am yet to forgive myself. Everyone advised me to re-use the propeller shaft, since the failed Tube centre bearing had been replaced. But i was stupid to listen to the mechanic, who was insisting that i replace the splines on the propeller shaft, even though i asked him to take it to where they would check if it was bent or not, which he didnt. I unwillingly let him had his way, by giving him the go ahead to remove the splines, which he said didnt look straight. Only for me to drive test the car after the terrible job was done and the whole car was vibrating and making grinding noise. unlike before the replacement of the bearing and splines, when only noise you could be heard, no vibration no matter the speed of the car. But that Friday, the vibration too much that it wouldnt even allow the car to gain speed. I kept blaming myself the whole of Friday for not heeding to people's advice to re-use the shaft without altering anything. So much pain i caused myself and my baby! I have no other option than to purchase another turbo propeller shaft, which someone promised to get for me, in the Eastern part of the country, Anambra state, where i grew up and where you can get any auto part, no matter the age, make or model of the vehicle in question, since the turbo shaft is available here in Abuja (FCT), where i work and live. But am so confused. Could it only be the bent propeller that is the making the car to vibrate? What of the replaced Tube centre bearing? Who knows if that moron installed it properly?


    The A/C technician fixed my A/C well which was leaking freon. But the unsteady idling of the car wouldnt let me enjoy the A/C. While the AC was on, each time i accelerate & release the throttle pedal, the engine would go off/stall when the pedal returns. Even when the AC was not on, if i throttle and release the pedal, the engine would want to go off, but would recover and contnue idling, but the sound would be going up and down, likewise the sound of the fuel pump. I have turned the black knub on the throttle unit, yet the problem remains.


    Yesterday, i decided to replace the coolant temperature sensor (NTC). When i brought out the sensor, water didnt come out immediately, instead, it was air. It took some seconds before water started coming out. Why the air? I then open the breed screw on ther upper radiator hose, but no water was coming out either. So I started adding more water directly in the radiator (I still intend to drain & refill with coolant), but no water was coming out from the hole on the upper radiator hose yet. Though, the coolant extension container is not in the engine bay, but the absence of it shoudnt be the cause of this. What could be the cause of this then? Also, could it be that the airlock/airpocket in the cooling system wouldnt allow the NTC sensor to function, preventing it from sending signal to ECU? Why wouldnt water be in the upper radiator hose? I even started the car to see if the thermostart would open and flow water through the upper hose back to radiator, so that air would escape from the bleeder screw hole, but i didnt see anything. I also noticed that sometimes while accelerating, the temperature gauge on the instrument cluster would jump up and down as rev counter/tachometer does. Anyway, I have suspended replacing the NTC sensor, since am not sure its faulty. Though, i tried few Peugeot shops around my house, but they were just starring at the sensor, meaning, ZN3J was a mystery to them. I will try Volvo shops next time, if there is need to replace the sensor.
    The same yesterday, I also tried to correct the unsteady idling of the car by checking the 6 spark plugs. While the engine was idling, i removed each of the leads which caused the engine to rough idled and vibrated, indicating that all the spark plugs and leads are in good condition, i guess. I tried to remove the injectors and clean them, but found it difficult removing them. I let them be.


    Beano, I later diagnosed the hotness of one of the rear wheels. It was the caliper. The pinions werent returning. The mechanic had it removed and blocked the brake on that wheel. He said he would wash/clean the caliper for me and re-install it when next i come. But i might change my mind and collect from him and clean it myself, cos he has caused so much pain to me.

    I need advised on how to fix this unsteady idling proplem pls.


    Ikenna.

  15. #15
    Demannu-facturing! Demannu's Avatar
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    Ikenna,

    I'm not sure what you mean when you say your mechanic 'removed' the splines. Can you please explain?

    Also, I think you will find that the standard V6 prop shaft is longer than any other of the 505 items. The gearbox and engine sit further forward in the factory V6s.

    There is of course always a chance that in the conversion your car has been fitted with 604 engine mounts, which puts the engine and gearbox further back in the car, so it fouls with the firewall, but also allows the use of standard 505 prop shafts and torque tubes.
    Scotty

    Melbourne - Dandenong Ranges

    1956 Peugeot 403 - 'Francois' - resto project

    1969 Peugeot 504 - 'Pascal' - daily driver project

    1970 Peugeot 404 Utility - 'Brutus' - resto project

    1978 Peugeot 604 - as yet unnamed - V6 on straight LPG

    1987 Peugeot 505 - as yet unnamed - project car

    1999 Peugeot 406 Coupé - 'Chloe' - 5 speed manual

    2011 Peugeot 3008 XTE HDi - 'Zoe' - hatchback on steroids

    2014 Peugeot RCZ - 'Remy'

    1999 Range Rover 4.6 HSE - 'Grover' - tow car

  16. #16
    Fellow Frogger! Ikenna351's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=Demannu;926089]Ikenna,

    I'm not sure what you mean when you say your mechanic 'removed' the splines. Can you please explain?

    I meant that the both ends of the propeller shaft where removed/welded out and re-installed/welded in with the ones from the standard 505 propeller shaft. The previous ones on the original shaft were the nockles, normally used by live differential 504 propeller shaft.

    Also, I think you will find that the standard V6 prop shaft is longer than any other of the 505 items. The gearbox and engine sit further forward in the factory V6s.

    There is of course always a chance that in the conversion your car has been fitted with 604 engine mounts, which puts the engine and gearbox further back in the car, so it fouls with the firewall, but also allows the use of standard 505 prop shafts and torque tubes.

    The mechanic told me he removed and installed the standard torque tube and standard prop shaft to see if it would work, but the rear axle couldnt reach/touch the torque tube after the installation. The torque tube was far away from the axle/differential.
    [/QU



    Scotty, I know you adviced that i check the battery volts, which could cause the unsteady idling. Am yet to do that cos i dont have Multimeter yet. I intend to borrow battery from a colleague of mine on Monday, tomorrow, to see if there will be any change.

    Ikenna.

  17. #17
    Demannu-facturing! Demannu's Avatar
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    I see. Personally I'm really not comfortable with someone welding new splines onto a driveshaft for me without some way of ensuring that they're fitted perfectly straight and then having it properly balanced.

    My concern now is that the 505 Turbo driveshaft also won't be long enough for the V6......
    Scotty

    Melbourne - Dandenong Ranges

    1956 Peugeot 403 - 'Francois' - resto project

    1969 Peugeot 504 - 'Pascal' - daily driver project

    1970 Peugeot 404 Utility - 'Brutus' - resto project

    1978 Peugeot 604 - as yet unnamed - V6 on straight LPG

    1987 Peugeot 505 - as yet unnamed - project car

    1999 Peugeot 406 Coupé - 'Chloe' - 5 speed manual

    2011 Peugeot 3008 XTE HDi - 'Zoe' - hatchback on steroids

    2014 Peugeot RCZ - 'Remy'

    1999 Range Rover 4.6 HSE - 'Grover' - tow car

  18. #18
    Fellow Frogger! Ikenna351's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Demannu View Post

    My concern now is that the 505 Turbo driveshaft also won't be long enough for the V6......

    If that is the case Scotty, then am in real trouble. The mechanic said the lenght of the original propeller shaft in the car is 70 by 1 ( I believe he meant 70 meters by 1 inch). So do you think the diameters are different, cos am not sure i can get anyother shaft in our market except the turbo shaft everyone here is saying is available.

    Ikenna.

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    Fellow Frogger! Ikenna351's Avatar
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    Am begining to suspect something as being the cause of the unsteady idling. The wire connectors. few things had happened and had send signal to me that it could be the culprit here.


    It appears the earth connection is losing contact somewhere. Thats why the starter most times would be making clicking noise when trying to start the vehicle. It would only start after a several trials. Sometimes, it would start at first turn. Also the beam headlight has started to show loose of earth. The fuel pump behaves when the engine is idling as if its not getting enough current to keep it running. Most expecially when the A/C is on. the sound of the fuel pump would be going up and down. In fact when i fist installed my Sony car CD player in the car, i connected the positive wire directly on the positive battery terminal head and connected the negative on of the bolts under the glove box. I noticed whenever the engine is running, the Car CD would alway go off. And when switch on again, it would reset itself as if it was disconnected from the battery and put back again. So i removed the earth wire on the body of the car and directly connected it on the negative terminal head of the battery, and since then it hasnt switched off as it was doing when it was connected to the body(-negative/earth), whether the engine is running or not. So i think the fuel pump and other electric devices in the car are not supplied enough battery negative/earth to power them. I will make out time to trace and clean the negative/earth battery connections to see if there will be any effect.


    Ikenna.

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    Yesterday, 05/02/2011, the 505 V6 torque tube, together with it centre bearing and Propeller shaft, I asked my dad to help me buy from the Eastern part of the country Nigeria two days ago, arrived in the morning. I quickly carried it to a mechanic workshop. When the original one that came with the car was brought out, I saw that the original tube and prop shaft were shorter, but longer than standard 505 one anyway. I believe in the conversion, they used the 505 turbo torque tube and prop shaft, since the one i purchased is longer, which is the V6 own. After the replacement, I took it for a test drive and WOW!! The car was moving smoothly. No more vibration and grinding noise. I was so happy that i wanted to kiss the Baby, the car while i was test driving it.It was just flowing like stream, no noise whatsoever. I was only hearing the noise of the electric fuel pump at the backgroung, even while on high speed (130 km/h). The car really goes like rocket

    I still have this unsteady idling problem which i will make out time to trace the problem, but will not prevent me from enjoying my baby. Except that it dosent allow me to enjoy my A/C, which stalls each time I on the A/C. Am suspecting the IAC valve, cos i pulled out the wire connector on the valve while it was idling and diidnt notice any change. So it could be that the IAC valve is faulty or its disconnected somewhere. Even the use of traffigator reduces the sound of the engine & fuel pump while idling. The engine doesnt carry load anymore. Anyway, will keep you guys updated, while am enjoying my BABY!!

    Ikenna.

  21. #21
    Fellow Frogger! salman's Avatar
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    Jan 2005
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    Hi Ikenna,
    Check if there are these two earth straps/wires and are not corroded.
    Battery -ve to body
    Battery -ve to engine
    If they look weak and crap,make new ones with a decent wire+eyelet connector.
    Run car at idling connect voltmeter to batt +- note reading should be between 13-14 Volt
    Next swithch on a/c and headlights recheck voltage output,it should not drop,and see if the variation corresponds to engine revs fluctuating.
    A weak but not fully dead Batt/Alternator if thats the case.

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