HELP!! 505 V6 Emits black smoke on the exhaust pipe.
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  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! Ikenna351's Avatar
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    Default HELP!! 505 V6 Emits black smoke on the exhaust pipe.

    Hi all,

    My 505 V6 5spd manual bought recently in France has just entered my country Nigeria. But its still more than 700kms away from me. They couldnt drive it to my location yet because the car is seriously emitting black smokes from the exhaust pipe. So what could be the problem? Is it the airflow meter, oxygen sensor, catalytic converter or what?

    Demannu, Graham, Salman & others help!!

    Ikenna.

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    Fellow Frogger! Doush_504's Avatar
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    Hi Ikenna,
    black smoke usually shouldn't worry you because in the end it is a matter of bad fuel/air mixture but it's blue smoke that should upset you .

    I would advise that (if possible) do not let anyone drive it but you, you have a knowledge with Peugeots and if you go get it yourself you may be able to determine what's wrong with it.
    Unfortunately since I have no prior experience with V6 505s I cannot help you.
    I hope it will turn out to be something very simple like spark plugs.
    Keep us updated please and I wish you the best of luck.
    Chadi

    1982 504 SR white manual sedan with A/C (257 000 Km)
    2012 308 1.6 VTi Vapor Grey manual H/B (35000 Km)
    1994 405 1.6 white manual sedan (208 000 Km)
    1992 605 SV24 (91 000 Km)
    2005 406 2.0L automatic (Replaced with a 2013 C5)
    1983 505 GR white manual sedan with A/C (170000 Km)

    All since new


  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger! Ikenna351's Avatar
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    I was told that they have the fuel pressure regulator and Mass Air flow sensor (AirFlow meter) replaced today, yet the problem hasnt gone. What else could be the culprit here?

    Ikenna.
    Last edited by Ikenna351; 15th January 2011 at 06:02 AM.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ikenna351 View Post
    I was told that they have the fuel pressure regulator and Mass Air flow sensor (AirFlow meter) replaced today, yet the problem hasnt gone. What else could be the culprit here?

    Ikenna.
    With some cars when the oxygen sensor fails, the system goes automatically to super rich (black smoke) to protect the engine. I would test an O2 sensor from another car (not buy a new one outright) and see how this changes things.

  5. #5
    Fellow Frogger! PCOATES505's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ikenna351 View Post
    I was told that they have the fuel pressure regulator and Mass Air flow sensor (AirFlow meter) replaced today, yet the problem hasnt gone. What else could be the culprit here?

    Ikenna.
    Failure of the" Coolant temperature sensor" (for the injection system) , can cause super rich running.
    Could it be as simple as a blocked air filter?

    cheers Pete

    I am gunna get another 403 on the road........one day

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    Fellow Frogger! salman's Avatar
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    Default thoughts

    Hi Ikenna,
    Driving with an extra rich mixture from Lagos to Abuja will cause Catalytic converter to choke up.So as I said get it on a car carrier and take it easy.
    In the years we lived the Peugeot agents UTC,SCOA were very competent,in fact Im certain if you contact the PAN factory in Kakuri industrial estate,there will be technical staff to provide help.
    I remember even before the 604 was launched they had staff training sessions on the PRV V6.
    Go in steps-Check; Spark plugs,Oxy sensor,Air/Fuel Filters,Distributor Cap/rotor & Airflow meter.
    From so far away we can only give possible tracks,as all issues need on car tests,pressure,resistances etc.
    Have a read in the workshop manual for Airflow meter parameters,you need a normal multimeter,also check resistance reading off coolant temp sensor,there would be two of these sensors-one just for the temp guage and other for injection computer,disconnect one at a time to see which is for guage and vice versa,the connectors will have different colours.
    To check if diaphram of fuel pressure regulator hasnt got hair line crack that lets fuel across,connect hand vacuum guage at vacuum point on regulator as it should hold vacuum,if not that means its leaking.
    If you can get an oxygen sensor the exhaust CO gas reading should be between 1-2%.
    Good luck.

  7. #7
    Fellow Frogger! Ikenna351's Avatar
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    I finally spoke with the mechanic on phone this evening. He told me he had replaced the fuel filter, which is not relevant to the issue at hand. I asked him how clean the airfilter was, he said it wasnt dirty. He said he strongly believed the culprit was the Mass airflow sensor. Though he replaced it yesterday, but he realised today that the part number of the original MAF sensor in the car was not the same with the new one he installed. So he had sent it back from where he bought it and asked for the correct part no. originally in the car. I didnt even know that it must be the exact MAF sensor part no. for it to work. He said he was convinced that the problem was the MAF sensor because he removed and checked the 6 spark plugs and all had black soots on them. With that, I ruled out the injectors, since it affected all the spark plugs. All the injectors can be faulty at once. Something else must have caused the Injectors to be supplying excess fuel to the combustion chambers, which has been affecting the spark plugs. I forgot to ask him if actually he had replaced the Fuel pressure regulator which I told he did yesterday. Just wanted to be sure before ruling out the FPR as the likely cause of the problem. But he sounded as someone that knew what he was doing or was very sure MAF sensor must be the culprit. According to him, the auto spare parts seller promised to bring the MAF sensor part number he had requested in two days time ( this coming Monday). And he promised me that he would eradicate the excessive fuel issue with car this coming Monday, 17/01/2011, once the new MAF sensor is fixed. That nothwithstanding, I asked him to keep all the parts he had replaced or would replace on Monday in the boot.

    At least, after speaking with him, I had a little bit rest of mind. Because, since he is just a mechanic and not a rewire, its better knowing that no one is messing or tampering with the car electricals, cos the rewires in Nigeria are good at by-passing wirings, creating more problems.

    Salman, trailing the car or getting it on car carrier from Lagos to Abuja will cost a fortune which I cant afford right now, after spending so much to get the car into the country and had it registered. The cost can even buy a small car here. Nigeria is a hell of a place, when it comes to standard of living which is extremely high. I would have done it the day it entered the country if it was feasible. The only alternative is to go to Lagos and fix the problem myself, but could lose my job doing so, cos my job is so time demanding that I have no other life except work, which was why I needed that car desperately to have another life,aside my work.

    SCOA! Salman, I was happy when i read where you mentioned it in your post above. My father bought that his 504 GL I used, from SCOA Kaduna branch in 1977, before the Peugeot Plant (PAN) in Kaduna started it operation, i.e started assembling/producing cars in Nigeria. I believe, SCOA was then importing and selling Peugeots then in Nigeria. Unfortunately, they no longer exist. Only PAN in Kaduna still exist. But believe you me, they might not have the knowledge of the PRV V6 engines, cos 505 V6 was never produced and sold in Nigeria as new. Am not sure about 604 either. I dont need PAN to fix my car for me. I can do it myself. I have done it with other Peugeot models and other makes. 505 V6 wont be an exception. I just need to spend little time with car, with the workshop manual and necessary tools, I will outshine PAN

    Ikenna.

  8. #8
    1000+ Posts Mike Tippett's Avatar
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    Good luck with this, it is a nice car and once it's running well, you should be the envy of many people.
    1966 Peugeot 404 Coupé Injection post-restoration reassembly underway!
    Register your 404: https://recensement.leclub404.com/submit.php

  9. #9
    Fellow Frogger! Ikenna351's Avatar
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    Please I was told the Radiator Fan cowl is missing. Now my question is, will the absence of the cowl impair or adversely affect the car cooling systwm? or should i used the car without the fan cowl/shroud?

    Ikenna.

  10. #10
    Fellow Frogger! Doush_504's Avatar
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    Its absence will make the fan move hot air about while its mission is to direct cool air through the radiator (more like concentrate the flow through the entire radiator).
    Depending on your weather, if it is hot as over here (I think it is ), I think you should need it although I saw plenty of Pugs (mainly 504s) without it and doing fine.
    Chadi

    1982 504 SR white manual sedan with A/C (257 000 Km)
    2012 308 1.6 VTi Vapor Grey manual H/B (35000 Km)
    1994 405 1.6 white manual sedan (208 000 Km)
    1992 605 SV24 (91 000 Km)
    2005 406 2.0L automatic (Replaced with a 2013 C5)
    1983 505 GR white manual sedan with A/C (170000 Km)

    All since new


  11. #11
    Fellow Frogger! Ikenna351's Avatar
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    Update on the 505 V6.

    The black smoke from the exhaust has stopped. The Mass airflow sensor was replaced and it fixed the black smoke issue. Also, the mechanic told me he had put another Fan cowl on the radiator.

    Unfortunately, he told me the Differential was noisy and that oil was dropping/leaking from the differential seal. He had the seal replaced today and also refilled the differential/rear axle with gear oil, but the noise continued, as he told me. I just couldnt take it any longer, so I instructed him to drive/bring it to me tomorrow in that condition, no matter how noisy it is. As long as there is oil in it, I strongly believe the differential wont break down on the 12 hrs long distance drive (about 750 km), even with the noise. Besides, I have spare differential in condition, from a donor car 505 series 1, which I believe could also be installed in 2nd series 505, especially the V6. Am tired of spending money on that car, yet have not seen it. I can even replace or change the differential myself, which I have done before on the previous 504 GL i used before now. Though, I will still repair the noisy one in the car once I bring it out, cos I believe the cause of the noise is the bearing inside the diff., which can be replaced and fixed back, without condeming the whole differential. One of my cousin had a similar experience with his 505 SR 1st series years back and his mechanic replaced only the bearing inside the axle and the noise stopped.

    Aside the differential, the mechanic took it for a test drive and said the car was revving and moving smoothly.

    So everyone, the car is arriving tomorrow and you will all see what has been keeping awake looks like.

    Ikenna.

  12. #12
    Fellow Frogger! Doush_504's Avatar
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    Congratulations. We'll be waiting for a LOT of pics
    Chadi

    1982 504 SR white manual sedan with A/C (257 000 Km)
    2012 308 1.6 VTi Vapor Grey manual H/B (35000 Km)
    1994 405 1.6 white manual sedan (208 000 Km)
    1992 605 SV24 (91 000 Km)
    2005 406 2.0L automatic (Replaced with a 2013 C5)
    1983 505 GR white manual sedan with A/C (170000 Km)

    All since new


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    Thanks Ikenna for sharing your stories - it's great to hear how you are managing in Nigeria. Looking forward to seeing some pics soon!
    Cheers,
    Goonengerry 505


  14. #14
    Fellow Frogger! tomb's Avatar
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    Default radiator cowling

    The cowling tends to make the fan, when it is on, very noisey. If the fan is pemanently on owners sometimes remove the cowling to reduce the noise. I don't think there is much of a problem not having the cowling except for the uncovered spinning blades.

    There is a more room to work without the cowling but the viscous coupling seems a bad choice for hot climates, an electric fan is the way to go.

    Ikenna I wonder whether you haven't got an LSDiff on your V6.

  15. #15
    Fellow Frogger! Doush_504's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tomb View Post

    The viscous coupling seems a bad choice for hot climates, an electric fan is the way to go.
    I think in hot climates people tend to prefer having the fan locked with the engine saying that this setup is the most reliable one.
    About the viscous coupling, why is it bad ? Isn't it reliable ?
    I have the fan locked with the engine and I would like to go for electric but the problem is lack of space.

    Finally about the LSD, I thought only the USA got it .
    Chadi

    1982 504 SR white manual sedan with A/C (257 000 Km)
    2012 308 1.6 VTi Vapor Grey manual H/B (35000 Km)
    1994 405 1.6 white manual sedan (208 000 Km)
    1992 605 SV24 (91 000 Km)
    2005 406 2.0L automatic (Replaced with a 2013 C5)
    1983 505 GR white manual sedan with A/C (170000 Km)

    All since new


  16. #16
    Fellow Frogger! Ikenna351's Avatar
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    Hi all,

    Tomorrow, being Saturday, I will devote time and work on the car to see if i can clear some issues it has been giving.

    First, I have noticed that the car still emits black smoke from the exhaust, under heavy acceleration only. I checked the spark plugs and they were all sooted with black carbons. What could be the cause of this problem? They told me they have replaced the Mass airflow sensor/meter before the car arrived. So, could it still be the MAF sensor or the fuel pressure regulator. Like i said, you only see the black smoke on the exhaust when you accelerate heavily or rev the engine a bit high. The engine dosnt idle roughly. Though it misfires and hesitates at first start everymorning, while the engine is cold.

    The up and down idling speed is still there. When you start the engine for the first time in a day, it will run and dies off/stall after some seconds. It will do the same thing at second and third trial. Even when you try to acclelerate while idling, it will hesitate and stall. And before it stalls, the battery sign on the instrument cluster will lit before the engine goes off. The sound of the fuel pump will also be going up and down with engine sound while idling. sometimes, when the engine warms up, it stops stalling and up and down idling will stop too. But as soon as you traffigat or on the side indicator sign, the fuel pump sound will start going up and down. Whenever i accelerate and release the throttle, the engine will behave as if it wants to stall, the battery light will show on the instrument cluster and go off, and the engine will continue to idle.

    I have cleaned IAC (Idle air control) valve with carb cleaner, yet the problem persisted. I intend to look for vacuum leak tomorow, incase it could be the cause of the idling problem and black smoke from the exhaust. I also will clean wire connectors in the engine bay tomorrow. I just need to do every thing in my power to fix it myself before taking it to mechanics who might worsent he matter for me.

    I noticed that oil in the sump is overguaged. I dont know why or how that happened. Could it be they overguage it when they drained and refilled the engine oil before they brought the car to me? Because it was overguaged when i received the car from them the first day the car arrived. Or could it be that the excessive fuel mixture in combustion chamber is causing this? I checked the oil with hand and i still felt the viscosity, but wouldnt know if the oil has mixed with fuel that made it to overfil/overguage.

    I bought 10 liters of coolant and intend to drain the water in the cooling system and refill with the coolant tomorrow. My concern is i wouldnt want after the refilling , and the problem of the rich fuel-air mix will be dianosed to be Temperature sensor, meaning, i will those coolant , which was expensive. But I dont want to continue using water in that radiator. Am afraid it could cause corrosion sooner than i expect. I have once removed and looked for the temperature sensor but couldnt find the exact type. So i put it back, hoping it wouldnt be the cause of the unstaedy idling and black smoke from the exhaust and spark plugs.

    In fact, am scared of driving the car anymore because of these problems, especially the black smoke from the exhaust and the overguage oil which could ruin the engine crankcase. But, inspite of these, the car runs fine when it warms up. The problems ddont affect it speed or acceleration. It moves smoothly once its warm. Though, would stall as soon as i on A/C compressor,.ie accelerate the car and returns pedal while A/C is on.

    What be the possible cause of the two problems mentioned above (Black smoke / up & down idling speed)? I need an idea before i start beating about the bush.

    Ikenna

  17. #17
    Fellow Frogger! tomb's Avatar
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    Don't waste the coolant till you have sorted everthing out otherwise there is a chance you will get to watch all go drown the drain when radiator has to come out for some reason. Give it a good flush out and fill with demineralized water. Use the coolant when everything is sorted and your confident that the timing belt, waterpump and everything else is A1.

    First thing to do is to drain some oil if it is overfilled. Don't put that off.

  18. #18
    Fellow Frogger! Doush_504's Avatar
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    Tomb is right. And a free source of demineralized water is the water coming out of the A/C at home.
    Chadi

    1982 504 SR white manual sedan with A/C (257 000 Km)
    2012 308 1.6 VTi Vapor Grey manual H/B (35000 Km)
    1994 405 1.6 white manual sedan (208 000 Km)
    1992 605 SV24 (91 000 Km)
    2005 406 2.0L automatic (Replaced with a 2013 C5)
    1983 505 GR white manual sedan with A/C (170000 Km)

    All since new


  19. #19
    1000+ Posts jo proffi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ikenna351 View Post
    The sound of the fuel pump will also be going up and down with engine sound while idling....
    That seems like a significant observation.



    Jo

  20. #20
    Fellow Frogger! Ikenna351's Avatar
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    About the "BUMP" that should occur when A/C is on, I dont think it happens in mine. Instead, the idle speed decreses as soon as A/C is on, not increases. I even had the wire connector on the IAC valve disconnected once, to know if there would be any change in the idle, but there was no change whatsoever. The engine behaved as if nothing was disconnected, which could mean the wire is disconnected somewhere or the valve is not functioning at all.

    I tried to increase the idle speed by turning the black knob on the throttle unit, yet it wouldnt stop the stalling. The engine would idle fine, but as soon as you accelerate and release, it wil stall or nearly stall and continue idling.

    I have read reviews of previous 505 V6 owners and no one had complained having issues like this with his/hers. Am begining to be scared that it has to do with the conversion, because this problem is purely electrical. I just hope they did the connections well,cos i wont know where to start. The workshop and owners manual are not elaborate on the electricals. I even tried with another battery yesterday incase the problem was with the battery volts, but it still happened, the stalling and up and down idling.

    Anyway, I will do as you guys have suggested and will take it easy in tracking the problems.

    Ikenna.

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    Fellow Frogger! salman's Avatar
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    What volts are you getting from alternator? I wrote earlier to test that.

  22. #22
    Fellow Frogger! Ikenna351's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by salman View Post
    What volts are you getting from alternator? I wrote earlier to test that.

    @Salman,

    I dont have the multimeter now, not because its so expensive, but the driveline issue then emptied my wallet in trying to fix it, just because i entered the wrong hand, the foolish mechanic that wasted my money i would have used to fix other problems. I will buy the multimeter when I earn my next salary.

    But i didnt have to waite till i purchase the multimeter. I didnt want today that i have chance (No office work) to do something on the car to waste. At least, there could be things to diagnose without spending much money. So, I started by opening the throttle unit and found carbon build up around the throttle plate. And i heard that if the throttle plate dosent close properly, it wont allow IAC valve to do its job, cos air would be passing the plate since those carbon will stuck it open. So, i clean it with carb cleaner and closed it back. After inspecting some vacuum hose, I started the car and was expecting the car to stall, which it was doing before, but this time, it didnt happen. I couldnt believe it. It was just idling, no misfiring, no hesitating and no stalling. I quickly dashed into the car and swithed on A/C, the "BUMP" happened for the first time in the car. I rev the engine while the AC was on, yet no stalling. I quickly cosed the door and hit the highway. I drove with AC on, speed the car upto 130km/h, the car was just moving without coughing, with the AC chilling the whole interior. I was so happy. I drove back to the house. When i switched off the compressor, the hunting (up and down idle speed/sound) started again. I was wondering why? I switched back the AC on, and the hunting was gone again. To cut the story short, the hunting now only happens while the AC compressor is off, but as soon as AC is switched on, the idle returns to normal. And this time around, the hunting is more rapid, unlike before when it was gradual or slowly. What an irony! Why would it happen when the engine has warmed? I donot know. Could it now be Vacuum leak or temperature sensor? No idea. I also noticed that the black smoke from the exhaust is still there. I even removed the vacuum hose on the FPR to see if fuel would come out from there while the engine was idling, yet it didnt come out. That ruled the FPR out, i guess. Could it be Alternator? I look under and found only two wires connected to alternator. Why? Shouldnt it be more than two. I saw a plug on the alternator unconnected and a wire hanging out on the alternator without been connected. So could this be the problem, the voltage regulator? I believe i can only find out this with Multimeter. But the battery has never gave sign of not properly charged by te alternator. I once tested it with headlights on at night. I revved the engine, yet the light didnt incresed or decrease. Pls bear in mind that the car no longer stall, even with the hunting.So whether the alternator is still good or not, is to be left for multimeter to confirm. I also reduced the overfilled oil in the sump. By mere looking at the oil, it was very glaring that it had fuel in it. I didnt have to smell it to confirm. Though, still sticky, but stiil mixed with fuel. Definitely, the injection system is the culprit here. I will have to drain and refill the engine oil with less expensive oil like Rabin suggested, until this problem is fixed. I wont even bother to replace the oil filter. After all, its going to be temporal. Meanwhile, i have seen MOBIL Injector cleaner which i intend to buy soon and pore into the fuel Tank, hopefully, to clean the injectors.

    I tried to drain the water in the engine walls, incase the cooling system was suffering from Airlock. But i couldnt get a space to loose the two drain plugs on the both side of the engine block. I wonder why that type of Design. Since i didnt know who refilled the radiator with water, i wouldnt know if it was bleeded. Most Nigerian mechanics dont know about bleeding of cooling system after refilling.

    Please, i want everyone to understand that most of the equipments mentioned in the manual for troubleshooting & diagnosing cant be found in Nigeria, because there is no demand for them here, so there wont be any supply. Our mechanics who should e making use of those equipments have not upgraded themselves to start using such for diagnosis, so they dont demand for the , thus it wont be available in the market. Thats the more reason, i prefer to fix certain things for myself cos they will end up compouding problems for the car. You can find pressure guage in Nigeria market, unless one can buy through someone outside the country. Yes, we all do guess work in Nigeria, but at least, i try to gather some info from experienced auto users before i start the diagnosis. If this was to be XN1, i needed not to ask for solutions cos i know every bit of that engine and how to fix and keep it on road as long it takes. But for ZN3J I4 injected engines, I still have a lot to learn there. I will find another way of testing FPR without the pressure guage. And will also check the condition of the fuel return line

  23. #23
    Fellow Frogger! Ikenna351's Avatar
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    As soon as I came back from the Church on Sunday,yesterday, I carried out some test on the car as you suggested. First, I started the car and allowed it to idle for a while. As soon as the engine warmed, the hunting started, so i switched on the A/C and the hunting stopped. I then turned the wheel (Power steering) to full lock and hold it for some seconds. There was no hunting or stalling. Though, the engine sound lowered a bit, but not enough to stall. I released the wheel and the sound came up a bit. I did it again, this time i tried to accelerate but there was engine hesitation. I released the wheel and swtiched off the AC, the hunting came back. And while hunting, the idling speed/sound was a bit high.

    The second thing i did was I inspected the fuel return and supply lines and they were both in good condtion. None bent under the car, upto the fuel tank. I attached a long hose on the FPR (Fuel pressure regulator) and placed the other end far from the engine bay in a container. I then swithed on the ignition, without starting the car. Fuel started gushing out of the hose and nearly filled the 1 litre container within seconds. The flow seemed ok, though i know it wouldnt give me the accurate pressure by mere doing that. I even forgot to start the engine and do the same test, to truely determine if the fuel flow from the FPR would be ok .

    Then, I decided to check the throttle plate. I open the chamber and it was clean as i left it the last time i opened and cleaned it. I closed it back. I disconnected the IAC valve. Lo and behold! one of the opening on the valve was blocked partially with a plastic bag, the opening pipe on the valve that leads to the intake manifold . Why would someone do this? I brought out the bag and looked at it. The label on the bag was a Lagos company name . Meaning it was done by the mechanic in Lagos that claimed he replaced the MAF sensor, and collected the money from me for that,before the car arrived Abuja. One of the reasons am relunctant to give my car to another mechanic to fix for me. Anyway, I removed the bag and reinstalled the IAC valve back. I started the car and the matter became worse. This time the car wasnt just hunting, but was puffing out thick black smoke while hunting. The engine was high too. I turned and closed the back knob on the throttle unit and there was no effect. I switched on the AC, this time, it was also hunting, seriously bringing out thick black smoke from the exhaust. Hmm! It wasnt funny.So I blocked the IAC valve again with the plastic bag on that same side, this time, i completely blocked that side hose that enters intake from the IAC valve. As soon as i did that, the hunting stopped with the AC on. No more black smoke. The idling started sounding normal. I off the AC, the hunting came back, but mild. I turned in the knob on the throttle unit completely (closed the bypass air) and the idling sound/speed became normal for the first time without the A/C on. ANd the thick black smoke on the exhaust was gone. The black smoke only comes out of the exhaust on heavy acceleration. The engine appears to be performing better with the IAC valve blocked.

    In my opinion, whatever is causing the hunting, also to a large extent, contributes to the excessive fuel/black smoke from the exhaust. Though, i wouldnt know if the blocking of the IAC valve would completely stop the excessive fuel in the combustion chambers, but at least, the black smoke is less seen while the engine idles or been accelerated.

    For now, there is no more test i could do without multimeter. It has gone beyond my guess work. Could it be the IAC valve that is the culprit? Could it be loss of connection somewhere? Could it be the alternator? I just dont know what the Hell is going on in that engine bay! Am tempted to block the IAC valve for now and be using it that way, but who knows if the excessive fuel will still enter the crankcase, which is my main concern.I thought learning how to fix Injected engine would be that easy. Even on the engine workshop manual, the directions on how to test all the sensors and electricals with Multimeter sounds Abracadabra to me!! I only know how to test battery and Alternator volts with multimeter. I really have a long way to go. The indication now is that I just have to park that car, rather than ruin that engine with fuel washing down the cylinders and doing some damage in the crankcase. I missed my XN1 engine a lot.

  24. #24
    Demannu-facturing! Demannu's Avatar
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    Ikenna,

    The IAC valve has exactly the same effect as opening the throttle slightly. The only thing I can think of is that perhaps the IAC is plumbed in incorrectly, though it would be very difficult to get it wrong with the standard hoses. Do you have any photos of the engine bay, particularly at the back of the engine bay around the IAC and throttle body?

    Someone hasn't swapped the cables between the IAC and the throttle position sensor have they??
    Scotty

    Melbourne - Dandenong Ranges

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    1999 Peugeot 406 Coupé - 'Chloe' - 5 speed manual

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  25. #25
    Fellow Frogger! Ikenna351's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Demannu View Post
    Ikenna,

    The IAC valve has exactly the same effect as opening the throttle slightly. The only thing I can think of is that perhaps the IAC is plumbed in incorrectly, though it would be very difficult to get it wrong with the standard hoses. Do you have any photos of the engine bay, particularly at the back of the engine bay around the IAC and throttle body?

    Someone hasn't swapped the cables between the IAC and the throttle position sensor have they??

    Below are pics of IAC valve, Throttle Units, MAF sensor,Injection ECU,etc. The opening on the right side of the IAC valve was the hose/side i blocked with plastic bag that stopped the hunting and black smoke from the exhaust(Attached hose on the right side of the IAC valve without clip). The blocked hose goes into the intake manifold.

    Scotty, how then do we know if the cables were swapped since they both look the same.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails HELP!! 505 V6 Emits black smoke on the exhaust pipe.-14022011261.jpg   HELP!! 505 V6 Emits black smoke on the exhaust pipe.-14022011260.jpg   HELP!! 505 V6 Emits black smoke on the exhaust pipe.-13022011258.jpg   HELP!! 505 V6 Emits black smoke on the exhaust pipe.-13022011254.jpg   HELP!! 505 V6 Emits black smoke on the exhaust pipe.-13022011244.jpg   HELP!! 505 V6 Emits black smoke on the exhaust pipe.-13022011256.jpg  

    HELP!! 505 V6 Emits black smoke on the exhaust pipe.-13022011242.jpg  
    Last edited by Ikenna351; 15th February 2011 at 10:47 AM.

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