406 Electric Window Issue
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  1. #1
    Tadpole
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Adelaide
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    2

    Default 406 Electric Window Issue

    Hi everyone,

    I was driving home one night in my 406 when I heard a horrific crunching sound after winding down my drivers side window. I took it apart and found that the metal cable on the window motor was badly chewed. I found a repair kit for the motor off Ebay in the UK and followed the instructions on how to repair it, but its just chewed itself again.

    Any ideas on what could be causing this? Will I just have to bite the bullet and buy a new motor assembly? Maybe even send it to an auto electrician?

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  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger! Decca's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    896

    Default

    Cable is probably getting wrecked by gearbox winder thingy on motor.

    I got into trouble when I tried to replace This part of the winder in my 405 as it is under spring tension. Assume they are the same in the 406

    May be best to get the whole setup out of a wreck.
    Dont know if D8 and D9 models are the same
    Or what would be better if you get a good door in same body colour as your car

    Decca


    Decca
    Present --2016 2008 Outdoor / 2014 RAV4 Diesel (My utilitarian beast)

    Past -- 19?? 403 / 1974 504GL / 1972 R12TL / 1995 405SRi / 1997 406ST / 1998 306XT / 2004 406HD1 / 2008 308XSE HDi / 2008 307XSE

  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Sydney
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    9,913

    Default

    The cable being mangled is usually the symptom of the problem except in those case where it's rusted through as it can in an XM. Something is probably broken, usually the glass guide clip, or you may have failed to get the tension right on the wires by making them too long. If you run the regulator to each end, you will see the spring goes slack on the 'free' side at the motor. The details vary between regulators, but most have the same principle of operation. If the wire has too much slack, one of the sprung tensioners can fall out and let the cable jam up.

    You also need to reprofile the drum track if it's damaged. It only guides the wires, while the tension is provided by swaged lugs. It can tolerate a bit of damage to the drum if you remove the loose dags and carefully file the tracks so the wire runs on and off freely.

  4. #4
    Tadpole
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    2

    Default

    Thankyou very much for your advice everybody, I shall give it one more go, hopefully this time it should work properly.

  5. #5
    1000+ Posts cav91's Avatar
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    Nov 2010
    Location
    Romsey, VIC
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    Default

    Usually when we sell a second hand one its because of the clip! Where it goes through the glass. It sometimes brakes so it's not attatched to the glass or where the wire's go into the clip or brakes off the rail! It then tangles up the wire because theres no tension!
    Hope that helps!

  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger
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    Jan 2004
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    Sydney
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    Default

    I'm not sure exactly what regulator design the 406 uses, but it's probably like the one in a Xantia. Most of them use a rectangular block on one of the cables so that it can clip into the steel frame in one of a number of positions. This allows you to adjust the tension by making the outer cable longer or shorter as needed. You probably want to set the outer cable to it's shortest length = least tension and compress the springs to work out where to fit your cable end. If it seems too slack you can tighten it by changing the block position.

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