so i have one HOT 405mi16
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  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! amcc's Avatar
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    Default so i have one HOT 405mi16

    mid december on a trip to work it got too stop engine light temp...

    thought it was water pump after pulling thermostate out and reving with top radiator hose off with next to no flow

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    so changed water pump today. and thought i was on a winner but no. to spite the thermo fans working properly on stationary test when driven around the block and stopped at servo to pump up tyres it hit the stop engine lite again whilst i was checking pressures...

    i also flushed the radiator and all was well appart from a the line from the throttle body being blocked, this is now cleared and would cause no trouble anyway.

    at this point i should point out that when purchased for $750 30000kms ago the car had between 90 and 130 psi on my comp tester (yes very sick) up till now though it has been nothing but reliable. havent had a chance to do another comp test but i am thinking that a head gasket issue may be causing the high temps???

    any ideas / pointers as to clues other than the head? at this point i am thinking that i really just need to do another comp test to seal its fate...

    if the head is gone i think the car is done. it also has a cracked block and i like it but dont have the time to do a rebiuld at the moment and it sure aint worth paying for. the other option is to take the mi donk out of the 205 and take the 205 off the road till the gti6 donk goes in it but that seems a waist given that there is over 5k$ in parts in the mi donk in the 205 and the 405 shell isnt up to the level to make a shmic 405mi16.....

    other problem is that i really just need a vehicle with more space for honey which my partner and i sell. any suggestions for a good workhorse? auto is also best for the other half as would be good if she could use it to go to shep to pack the honey rather than overloading her VW Golf all the time...



    Andrew
    French - 92 205mi16, 87 205gti and spares
    Other - Amarok V6, Iveco Daily 50C17, Isuzu 600

  2. #2
    al
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    That sucks. Seems the season for it though - my 405 is getting a new head at the moment.

    You still in abbotsford? We are considering moving to Clifton hill soon. St kilda is killing me... Especially with four cars now
    405 Mi16 - Sold - Now back
    205 Mi16
    505 GTi

  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger! spar's Avatar
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    afaik if there's any appreciable head gasket leak into the water jacket then you will get bubbles in the header tank or at least lose water every time you run due to the gasses pushing the water out.

    either way it should be patently obvious if it is a head gasket.

  4. #4
    Fellow Frogger! four_plus_two's Avatar
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    The gasket will hold on for a while then let go spectacularly, as I can attest and as Al is now dealing with ...

    Main symptom is bubbling in the header tank and excess pressure in the system (ie even if you run it for a short time there will be noticeable pressure when you take off the radiator cap.

    On car choices, well ... I quite like the Citroen C4 which has come down a lot in price, or N5 306, even a 406 wagon / estate would give you plenty of room. The -07 and -08 Peugeot shapes leave me cold. But that's just my .

    Quote Originally Posted by spar View Post
    afaik if there's any appreciable head gasket leak into the water jacket then you will get bubbles in the header tank or at least lose water every time you run due to the gasses pushing the water out.

    either way it should be patently obvious if it is a head gasket.

    2005 Renault Clio Sport 182 Cup
    1983 Peugeot 505 SRDT

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    Fellow Frogger! spar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by four_plus_two View Post
    The gasket will hold on for a while then let go spectacularly, as I can attest and as Al is now dealing with ... .
    ah interesting, thx.

    so in what way did it "let go spectacularly"? i've run around about 6 times at least with leaky head gaskets for 1,000's of km without issue, sure you need to carry 6l of water for a long trip but it should be ok in my experience.

    just asking because i am currently doing so.

    (just like to add - it was old italian and english cars not maintenance, in the end i could change a head gasket in about 3 hours, it was part of ownership...)

  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger! four_plus_two's Avatar
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    High temps for a few days, coolant pushed out of header tank when driving in slow traffic, then...

    Driving to work on the freeway, water temp goes to max, 'Stop' light comes on, pull into carpark, let it cool down, add water. Start it up, white smoke out the exhaust, no power, undriveable.

    They seem to hold on for a while but eventually the gasket will rot away and that's it.

    Quote Originally Posted by spar View Post
    ah interesting, thx.

    so in what way did it "let go spectacularly"? i've run around about 6 times at least with leaky head gaskets for 1,000's of km without issue, sure you need to carry 6l of water for a long trip but it should be ok in my experience.

    just asking because i am currently doing so.

    (just like to add - it was old italian and english cars not maintenance, in the end i could change a head gasket in about 3 hours, it was part of ownership...)

    2005 Renault Clio Sport 182 Cup
    1983 Peugeot 505 SRDT

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    Fellow Frogger! spar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by four_plus_two View Post
    pull into carpark, let it cool down, add water. Start it up, white smoke out the exhaust, no power, undriveable.
    ah if you did it in that order then you can crack the block or ?possibly head - the cold water will only hit the top part of the engine and the temperature differential can kill it due to contraction.

    better order is (well apart from not letting it run out of water) keep the car going and add water so it mixes into the hot water and evenly cools the engine.

    obviously you want a nice big towel on you to open the header tank... it will be very hot !

  8. #8
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    A problem with country cars can be the actual fins on the radiator become blocked with dust and debris although this isn't always obvious. Compressed air is better than water for cleaning.

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    Fellow Frogger! gsmack's Avatar
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    Default yes

    we have just had similar problems with the bx so took out the air con radiator to get access and cleaned the fins thoroughly, I was surprised at how much crap was there, several large double handfuls, problem now is fixed easy and cheap fix

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    I actually had that problem recently with a tractor radiator. For years I just ran water through the fins and it was ok. This time I had to take it out and compressed air got a lot more gunk out than the water. Mechanic said washing out can make it worse because dust can set solid.

  11. #11
    Fellow Frogger! amcc's Avatar
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    would be nice to have such a simple problem. i cant find my compression tester but i am sure my problem is internal now...

    depending on what new car we get it will either be up for grabs or have a fresher donk dropped in it...
    French - 92 205mi16, 87 205gti and spares
    Other - Amarok V6, Iveco Daily 50C17, Isuzu 600

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    Default bleeding

    are you bleeding it properly the temp light can go berzerk if its reading steam temp instead of coolant temp fill the tank up remove bleeders both sides of the t stat and the one on the pipe that runs along the rear of the rocker cover ,if it still exists ,you can cut the bottom out of a milk container and rap some insulation tape around the neck to get it to fit were the rad cap goes ,fill it up ,you should have coolant only, coming out the bleeders no bubbles ,make sure the bleeders have some kind of sealing washer so they dont leak or suck air back in when it cools down ,keep an eye on it for a few days ,there used to be lots of posts on this subject ,check the simple things first PUGS another trick is to drill an eight inch hole in the thermostat body and install with hole at top to help in bleeding

  13. #13
    Fellow Frogger! amcc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pugwash View Post
    are you bleeding it properly the temp light can go berzerk if its reading steam temp instead of coolant temp fill the tank up remove bleeders both sides of the t stat and the one on the pipe that runs along the rear of the rocker cover ,if it still exists ,you can cut the bottom out of a milk container and rap some insulation tape around the neck to get it to fit were the rad cap goes ,fill it up ,you should have coolant only, coming out the bleeders no bubbles ,make sure the bleeders have some kind of sealing washer so they dont leak or suck air back in when it cools down ,keep an eye on it for a few days ,there used to be lots of posts on this subject ,check the simple things first PUGS another trick is to drill an eight inch hole in the thermostat body and install with hole at top to help in bleeding
    yeas mate i know how to bleed a motor, think was just being optimistic hoping it wasn't the head... thanks thought hey are good pointers
    French - 92 205mi16, 87 205gti and spares
    Other - Amarok V6, Iveco Daily 50C17, Isuzu 600

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