205 respray in Sydney - mates rates or home job?
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  1. #1
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    Default 205 respray in Sydney - mates rates or home job?

    Hi All,

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    When I bought my white 205 it had some clear coat peeling on the bonnet, and this has now spread to the roof, and hatch, and long with a bunch of rust spots and dents I think it's time for a respray. The neighbours have complained that I'm lowering the tone of the neighbourhood by parking outside and they've tolerated the noisy old heap to date so I'm not looking to push my luck.

    Given this is meant to be a little runabout / track car and not a showcar, I'm really only looking for a '10ft' paint job, killing the rust where it exists, a bit of filler for the dents and away you go.

    Does anyone have a contact in the trade that would be willing to do this work on the cheap (e.g. have an apprentice do it, cash payment etc), or is anyone here in the Sydney area equipped to do such a job from their house? (equipment and experience).

    I'm more than happy to help out with some prep work as the name of the game here is to get a 10ft job done as cheaply as possible.

    Many thanks
    1992 205 Si
    Current: shortened diff (4.4), short shifter, group N top mounts, rebuilt engine and box, solid engine mounts, 1.75" exhaust, strut brace, OMP wheel, GTI suspension & subframe front and rear, lowered 30mm front and rear, solid rear bush, Koni yellows, 306 XT front discs and calipers, ADR compliant braided brake lines, 14" rallye wheels, Dunlop Direzza Z1 Star Spec tyres, immobiliser

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    Fellow Frogger! jurgen_s's Avatar
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    expoxy paint and a paint roller

    wetsand it afterwards and you will have a very low cost result

    often done in the states as cheap but durable paint job for old timers
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    Sans Pond. STALLED's Avatar
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    My mate(s) are painting their MX5 currently - It's a lot of work, only to have someone back into it in a carpark! Depends what you are spraying it in too - and it can be fairly tricky especially if it's the first time. I did some of the prep on my mates Beetle, only to put my elbow through the filler in the guard and having to start again - sucks, but you have to get it right, otherwise it will look absloute shite!

    A respray can range anywhere from 3k upwards! For the dents, would PDR work?

    BTW - is your SI white, on aftermarket wheels? I think I saw it on Penshurst St Willoughby the other week turning right into Boundary!
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    Quote Originally Posted by jurgen_s View Post
    expoxy paint and a paint roller

    wetsand it afterwards and you will have a very low cost result

    often done in the states as cheap but durable paint job for old timers
    Looking for something a tad better than a roller job! Was more trying to go for a conventional job (incl clear coat) targeting the $1500 mark. I gather I would have to make a reasonable contribution to prep to make that happen.
    1992 205 Si
    Current: shortened diff (4.4), short shifter, group N top mounts, rebuilt engine and box, solid engine mounts, 1.75" exhaust, strut brace, OMP wheel, GTI suspension & subframe front and rear, lowered 30mm front and rear, solid rear bush, Koni yellows, 306 XT front discs and calipers, ADR compliant braided brake lines, 14" rallye wheels, Dunlop Direzza Z1 Star Spec tyres, immobiliser

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    Quote Originally Posted by STALLED View Post
    My mate(s) are painting their MX5 currently - It's a lot of work, only to have someone back into it in a carpark! Depends what you are spraying it in too - and it can be fairly tricky especially if it's the first time. I did some of the prep on my mates Beetle, only to put my elbow through the filler in the guard and having to start again - sucks, but you have to get it right, otherwise it will look absloute shite!

    A respray can range anywhere from 3k upwards! For the dents, would PDR work?

    BTW - is your SI white, on aftermarket wheels? I think I saw it on Penshurst St Willoughby the other week turning right into Boundary!
    The doors are absolutely littered with dents, each one would have at least 15 so whilst PDR may work it is NOT worth it on this car - bear in mind I paid $2000 for it!

    Yep the car is white with Rallye wheels but I don't think that was me unless someone was borrowing the car without telling me (has been known to happen!)
    1992 205 Si
    Current: shortened diff (4.4), short shifter, group N top mounts, rebuilt engine and box, solid engine mounts, 1.75" exhaust, strut brace, OMP wheel, GTI suspension & subframe front and rear, lowered 30mm front and rear, solid rear bush, Koni yellows, 306 XT front discs and calipers, ADR compliant braided brake lines, 14" rallye wheels, Dunlop Direzza Z1 Star Spec tyres, immobiliser

  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger! jurgen_s's Avatar
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    cheapest way to clear the doors of dents is to buy used ones that don't have dents. Yes they exist, I have bought several for not more than 20 a piece. I even bought a new one for 25 from someone that didn't need it anymore, still in the original package. Perhaps the availability in Australia is not that big as here in europe, but it can't hurt to look for it. Getting dents out of a door can rise the cost very quickly.

    as for the preparing of the car for a paintjob: you need to know what to do exactly otherwise it might come out very wrong and you will end up with a car that looks even worse than before.
    Perhaps it is better to post a couple pictures of the damage.
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    Sans Pond. STALLED's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Langers View Post

    Yep the car is white with Rallye wheels but I don't think that was me unless someone was borrowing the car without telling me (has been known to happen!)
    Ah - the one I saw had a set of aftermarket Speedlines from memory, sitting nice and wide - So definately a different car!

    Look out for my mates 205 SI, lowered with Gutmann wheels and front bar! Seems like there are now a few Si's around town : )
    2005 Renault Clio 182 Cup

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    dvr
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    Quote Originally Posted by Langers View Post
    Hi All,

    ... The neighbours have complained that I'm lowering the tone of the neighbourhood by parking outside...

    Many thanks

    If it's registered ignore them. You are entitled to public roads as much as anybody else. Don't feel pressured to do something to keep them happy but take your time working out what to do.

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    Quote Originally Posted by dvr View Post
    If it's registered ignore them. You are entitled to public roads as much as anybody else. Don't feel pressured to do something to keep them happy but take your time working out what to do.
    That was my first thought - tell your neighbours that their mercedes suv or whatever offends you and brings down the tone the neighbourhood
    I tried to drown my sorrows in alcohol, but the bastards learnt how to swim

  10. #10
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Langers View Post
    Looking for something a tad better than a roller job! Was more trying to go for a conventional job (incl clear coat) targeting the $1500 mark. I gather I would have to make a reasonable contribution to prep to make that happen.
    You could easily sink $1500 into materials .... If you have never painted a car before I suggest the roller would probably give a better finish than you will end up with, unless you have someone that's painted a car before to help you. Painting a car takes an investment of literally hundreds of hours to get a decent job. It one of those jobs where you DO learn absolutely everything the hard way .... by messing it up 1/2dozen times before getting it right.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
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    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/citro%EBn-forum/90325-best-project-car-you-have-ever-seen.html
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


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  11. #11
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    That's hilarious ... the neighbours are complaining ... I'd stick some car wrecks in my front yard if this is the case ... give them something to really whinge about. Failing that, get the worse looking car wreck you can find and stick it on the street infront of your house. If it's on a registered car trailer, there is nothing they can do about it

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  12. #12
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    Default It's not that bad....

    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron View Post
    You could easily sink $1500 into materials .... If you have never painted a car before I suggest the roller would probably give a better finish than you will end up with, unless you have someone that's painted a car before to help you. Painting a car takes an investment of literally hundreds of hours to get a decent job. It one of those jobs where you DO learn absolutely everything the hard way .... by messing it up 1/2dozen times before getting it right.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    Dear me.

    It's not that bad and the job depends on the process. Yes it is a lot of work and yes, it is messy, dusty and sometimes frustrating and Yes (enough already!) You do have to learn by doing but not all things are learned the 'hard-way' and a bit of forethought here and there can help you avoid extra work down the track.

    What is there to lose when you have everything to gain??? Note: There are people who can do a reasonable job at home who have trouble reading and writing, stringing words together that involve more than two syllables so if they can learn to do it, then....

    First. Buy a 'how to do it' book to help with preparation techniques and process. Adapt and ignore anything you read as necessary but bear in mind that some things shouldn't be ignored eg, 'feathering' and 'preparation'.

    Second. A carport is good, a shed is better but good neighbours are an absolute must- make sure they don't mind or can't see/smell/hear/get an allergic reaction to dust etc.

    Third. Allow about seven or eight weekends more or less for a small car like a 205. This is the perfect intro to 'do it yourself refinishing' as it is small and easy to reach car (avoid CX or 505 wagons). Buy Turps, a bit of thinners, various sanding blocks, flexible ones, flat surface ones, long ones and short ones, an eccentric orbital sander with velcro pads (5 inch), rust converter. Buy spray can one hit primer and other primer surfacers as needed as well as Putty/filler and use tools around the house or hardware as needed.

    Fourth. Pull the doors, hatch. bonnet and arrange on a bench one at a time. Do things one at a time. Use of a waist height stand is preferable and one that doesn't rock about. Identify bumps in the panel with a a texter after cleaning of dirt remove trim as necessary. If painted surface is ok, sand circular motions overlapping with min 320grit. If bumps are to be addressed, sand to bear metal using 80 grit. Mix and apply filler, pressing down to get the bubbles out. Three passes per application min as needed. Use larger sanding block to trim and profile the filler using 80 grit. Pay attention to feathering edges and profile with rest of panel. Finish with 240 grit. Make sure surfaces that have been scratched with 80grit have been feathered and remember that silicone (ie, car polish) is surprisingly enduring product so prep all painted surfaces with 320 minimum and then turps. Turpentine and filler DO NOT mix so avoid using turps over fill sections.
    Mask up items like glass and rubber (I hate overspray but this can mostly be removed later as well) become good at quick masking and be thorough. Preparation is the key but take your time.
    Apply spray putty and primer surfacer (dust coat, then progressively heavier coats about two to three mins apart). Spray putty hides feathering and sanding marks. It is indispensable and needs a good amount of time to cure (it shrinks and contracts). It then needs to be 'blocked' with a flat sander 320grit or start of with 240grit then go to higher grades. Apply more spray putty as needed- remember panel profiles (we all hate to see rippling on an otherwise straight panel with gleaming paint) You need to apply a guide coat on top of the spray putty (just a small quick flick with black paint from a can- dots everywhere)- then block down. Use water to wet rub/block primer/filler. Alloy good drying time between applications of the spray filler. Finsh in 320 or 400 grit wet and dry. Leave no filler or metal exposed.

    Fifth. Move on to another door. panel. Repeat process. or complete the one panel you have chosen to work on to satisfy yourself that the job is worth it. Go easy on yourself and don't be too critical. Learn from mistakes and ask other's advice- commiserate as needed- remember that bravery and stupidity are close cousins separated by attention to detail. Remembering that the skills gained improve with effort and tricks you learn will save you many thousands of dollars in the future and allow you to do things that others cannot/will not.

    Sixth. Refinish with spray packs using acrylic. Or, Use a quality paint roller and signwriting enamel (UV stabilised) on a very hot day on a flat surface. Colour of both types can be made up to code. Forget COB 'clear-Over-base (metallics etc) refinishes until you gain your competence on solid colours first. Faun/beige, and white are the easiest colours to apply. Get tips on technique from the how to book. Remember comments at point five above. Acrylic needs to rubbed and buffed about two weeks after application- but this does marvelous things with imperfections and can match a professional job 9/10 if used with adaquate effort.
    There is technique in this but if you are picky about how you apply polish and take it off on a good car then you have quite a few skills in your possession that will help you to do your own refinish to an acceptable standard.
    Enamel applied with a roller on a hot (direct sunlight) day can indeed provide a glass like surface- don't underestimate how good this can turn out. Runs can be blocked (1000grit) and buffed as well. Enamel can last up to about five years more or less if the refinish is cared for. Cleaning of the car and cover at nights are the single biggest elements to preservation of paint.

    This all sounds like a lot of work but a complete job can quite readily be done this way.

    Even if you get the car overall to primer stage, and then commission a local spray shop to apply colour professionally in a booth this will be cheaper than asking someone to do the job but paint and product is expensive and time in a booth is expensive as well. A fifteen hundred dollar job is generally not worth the money (I would say a three thousand dollar job is also not worth the money given what I have seen over the last five years or so) and this will become apparent after a few months....

    If you do it yourself you have a lot to gain (skills experience and know how, money and a sense of achievement not to mention a nagging 'I can do this better' that may or may not be awesome) and a lot to save. Budget minimum or about $400 for the job- less is certainly not impossible. Find others who do their own work and compare notes.



    Cheers
    Steu

  13. #13
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    Thanks to everyone for the advice. I don't have a workspace of any sort so if I were to do it myself I'd have to do the panels / areas one at a time most likely on the car.

    I'll post up some pictures tonight showing the extent of the damage. The bonnet is by far in the worst condition and would be first up for repainting. Flat surface also makes it suitable for using a roller... hmm...

    Are there any specific brands of paint that I should be looking at that would be suitable for rollering in an automotive application? Would I be looking at something from Bunnings or a specialist paint supplier?

    The colour matching with the rest of the car will likely be shocking but c'est la vie.

    Thanks
    1992 205 Si
    Current: shortened diff (4.4), short shifter, group N top mounts, rebuilt engine and box, solid engine mounts, 1.75" exhaust, strut brace, OMP wheel, GTI suspension & subframe front and rear, lowered 30mm front and rear, solid rear bush, Koni yellows, 306 XT front discs and calipers, ADR compliant braided brake lines, 14" rallye wheels, Dunlop Direzza Z1 Star Spec tyres, immobiliser

  14. #14
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by svengali0 View Post
    Dear me.

    It's not that bad and the job depends on the process. Yes it is a lot of work and yes, it is messy, dusty and sometimes frustrating and Yes (enough already!) You do have to learn by doing but not all things are learned the 'hard-way' and a bit of forethought here and there can help you avoid extra work down the track.

    What is there to lose when you have everything to gain??? Note: There are people who can do a reasonable job at home who have trouble reading and writing, stringing words together that involve more than two syllables so if they can learn to do it, then....

    First. Buy a 'how to do it' book to help with preparation techniques and process. Adapt and ignore anything you read as necessary but bear in mind that some things shouldn't be ignored eg, 'feathering' and 'preparation'.

    Second. A carport is good, a shed is better but good neighbours are an absolute must- make sure they don't mind or can't see/smell/hear/get an allergic reaction to dust etc.

    Third. Allow about seven or eight weekends more or less for a small car like a 205. This is the perfect intro to 'do it yourself refinishing' as it is small and easy to reach car (avoid CX or 505 wagons). Buy Turps, a bit of thinners, various sanding blocks, flexible ones, flat surface ones, long ones and short ones, an eccentric orbital sander with velcro pads (5 inch), rust converter. Buy spray can one hit primer and other primer surfacers as needed as well as Putty/filler and use tools around the house or hardware as needed.

    Fourth. Pull the doors, hatch. bonnet and arrange on a bench one at a time. Do things one at a time. Use of a waist height stand is preferable and one that doesn't rock about. Identify bumps in the panel with a a texter after cleaning of dirt remove trim as necessary. If painted surface is ok, sand circular motions overlapping with min 320grit. If bumps are to be addressed, sand to bear metal using 80 grit. Mix and apply filler, pressing down to get the bubbles out. Three passes per application min as needed. Use larger sanding block to trim and profile the filler using 80 grit. Pay attention to feathering edges and profile with rest of panel. Finish with 240 grit. Make sure surfaces that have been scratched with 80grit have been feathered and remember that silicone (ie, car polish) is surprisingly enduring product so prep all painted surfaces with 320 minimum and then turps. Turpentine and filler DO NOT mix so avoid using turps over fill sections.
    Mask up items like glass and rubber (I hate overspray but this can mostly be removed later as well) become good at quick masking and be thorough. Preparation is the key but take your time.
    Apply spray putty and primer surfacer (dust coat, then progressively heavier coats about two to three mins apart). Spray putty hides feathering and sanding marks. It is indispensable and needs a good amount of time to cure (it shrinks and contracts). It then needs to be 'blocked' with a flat sander 320grit or start of with 240grit then go to higher grades. Apply more spray putty as needed- remember panel profiles (we all hate to see rippling on an otherwise straight panel with gleaming paint) You need to apply a guide coat on top of the spray putty (just a small quick flick with black paint from a can- dots everywhere)- then block down. Use water to wet rub/block primer/filler. Alloy good drying time between applications of the spray filler. Finsh in 320 or 400 grit wet and dry. Leave no filler or metal exposed.

    Fifth. Move on to another door. panel. Repeat process. or complete the one panel you have chosen to work on to satisfy yourself that the job is worth it. Go easy on yourself and don't be too critical. Learn from mistakes and ask other's advice- commiserate as needed- remember that bravery and stupidity are close cousins separated by attention to detail. Remembering that the skills gained improve with effort and tricks you learn will save you many thousands of dollars in the future and allow you to do things that others cannot/will not.

    Sixth. Refinish with spray packs using acrylic. Or, Use a quality paint roller and signwriting enamel (UV stabilised) on a very hot day on a flat surface. Colour of both types can be made up to code. Forget COB 'clear-Over-base (metallics etc) refinishes until you gain your competence on solid colours first. Faun/beige, and white are the easiest colours to apply. Get tips on technique from the how to book. Remember comments at point five above. Acrylic needs to rubbed and buffed about two weeks after application- but this does marvelous things with imperfections and can match a professional job 9/10 if used with adaquate effort.
    There is technique in this but if you are picky about how you apply polish and take it off on a good car then you have quite a few skills in your possession that will help you to do your own refinish to an acceptable standard.
    Enamel applied with a roller on a hot (direct sunlight) day can indeed provide a glass like surface- don't underestimate how good this can turn out. Runs can be blocked (1000grit) and buffed as well. Enamel can last up to about five years more or less if the refinish is cared for. Cleaning of the car and cover at nights are the single biggest elements to preservation of paint.

    This all sounds like a lot of work but a complete job can quite readily be done this way.

    Even if you get the car overall to primer stage, and then commission a local spray shop to apply colour professionally in a booth this will be cheaper than asking someone to do the job but paint and product is expensive and time in a booth is expensive as well. A fifteen hundred dollar job is generally not worth the money (I would say a three thousand dollar job is also not worth the money given what I have seen over the last five years or so) and this will become apparent after a few months....

    If you do it yourself you have a lot to gain (skills experience and know how, money and a sense of achievement not to mention a nagging 'I can do this better' that may or may not be awesome) and a lot to save. Budget minimum or about $400 for the job- less is certainly not impossible. Find others who do their own work and compare notes.



    Cheers
    Steu
    Ok, ok .... I can do quick and bodgy too

    Quick paint job anyone ????

    If he grabs a beer or two he can sit down and have a laugh at me. A lot of the piccies maybe missing since the forum crash, I haven't gone through the thread to see.

    I'm trying really hard to do better these days

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  15. #15
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    No pics sadly but I'll have a read nonetheless.
    1992 205 Si
    Current: shortened diff (4.4), short shifter, group N top mounts, rebuilt engine and box, solid engine mounts, 1.75" exhaust, strut brace, OMP wheel, GTI suspension & subframe front and rear, lowered 30mm front and rear, solid rear bush, Koni yellows, 306 XT front discs and calipers, ADR compliant braided brake lines, 14" rallye wheels, Dunlop Direzza Z1 Star Spec tyres, immobiliser

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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron View Post
    That's hilarious ... the neighbours are complaining ... I'd stick some car wrecks in my front yard if this is the case ... give them something to really whinge about. Failing that, get the worse looking car wreck you can find and stick it on the street infront of your house. If it's on a registered car trailer, there is nothing they can do about it

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    LOL. Neighbours could just as easily complain to council / EPA / cops about the car being too loud, then I'd be in a world of hurt if anyone looked at it closely so I'd prefer not to provoke them (and besides the car does look shocking!!)

    In fairness to them you don't expect to buy a house for $2mm+ and have rattly old bomby French cars in your neighbour's driveway!
    1992 205 Si
    Current: shortened diff (4.4), short shifter, group N top mounts, rebuilt engine and box, solid engine mounts, 1.75" exhaust, strut brace, OMP wheel, GTI suspension & subframe front and rear, lowered 30mm front and rear, solid rear bush, Koni yellows, 306 XT front discs and calipers, ADR compliant braided brake lines, 14" rallye wheels, Dunlop Direzza Z1 Star Spec tyres, immobiliser

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    Default French Clunkers

    Quote Originally Posted by Langers View Post
    LOL. Neighbours could just as easily complain to council / EPA / cops about the car being too loud, then I'd be in a world of hurt if anyone looked at it closely so I'd prefer not to provoke them (and besides the car does look shocking!!)

    In fairness to them you don't expect to buy a house for $2mm+ and have rattly old bomby French cars in your neighbour's driveway!
    Waddyamean 'In Fairness'???? They should be so lucky to have the added benefit of viewing (at their own convenience, mind) these gracefully (or, not...) deteriorating masterpieces of French design????

    But noisy exhausts are another thing entirely.... (thinking of those horrid American motorcycles driven by 'individuals' who think that removing baffles in the muffler some how improves sound quality and presence.... cretins)

  18. #18
    1000+ Posts jo proffi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by svengali0 View Post
    But noisy exhausts are another thing entirely.... (thinking of those horrid American motorcycles driven by 'individuals' who think that removing baffles in the muffler some how improves sound quality and presence.... cretins)
    Um....That would be me.
    The sound of over-run bubbling down a big hill is pure sex.


    Unfortunatley you'd need well over $$5 million to quilify to be one of my neighbours and complain about it.
    Now that i think about it, my neighbour does louder burn outs than me.

    Jo

  19. #19
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    1992 205 Si
    Current: shortened diff (4.4), short shifter, group N top mounts, rebuilt engine and box, solid engine mounts, 1.75" exhaust, strut brace, OMP wheel, GTI suspension & subframe front and rear, lowered 30mm front and rear, solid rear bush, Koni yellows, 306 XT front discs and calipers, ADR compliant braided brake lines, 14" rallye wheels, Dunlop Direzza Z1 Star Spec tyres, immobiliser

  20. #20
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    Am I on the right track for rolling with this paint?

    http://www.bunnings.com.au/products_...namel_772.aspx
    1992 205 Si
    Current: shortened diff (4.4), short shifter, group N top mounts, rebuilt engine and box, solid engine mounts, 1.75" exhaust, strut brace, OMP wheel, GTI suspension & subframe front and rear, lowered 30mm front and rear, solid rear bush, Koni yellows, 306 XT front discs and calipers, ADR compliant braided brake lines, 14" rallye wheels, Dunlop Direzza Z1 Star Spec tyres, immobiliser

  21. #21
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Langers View Post
    That's impressive !!! And really interesting. Like everything it's in the preparation... He used exactly the same steps you do when you spray a car.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  22. #22
    1000+ Posts jo proffi's Avatar
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    Interested in cheap paint???

    There is a guy in North Narrabeen who sells dented and shop soiled tins of paint at about 40% retail.
    His turn over is massive, not suprisingly and he has what he has on the day, but you'll save $60 on a tin of premo paint.
    He will tint too,and has the time to fuss about adding a bit of tint to get it right.

    The address is
    ??garden street north narrabeen, just near the corner of Powder Works road.
    It is about 50 meters north of the intersection, next to the boat shop.

    Jo

  23. #23
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Pictures here:

    Thoughts on this rust? Does the windscreen need to come out to catch all of the rust in this area?









    If you look closely you can see water between the clear and pigment layer here, so the roof will be the next to go.









    Last edited by Langers; 8th January 2011 at 06:18 PM.
    1992 205 Si
    Current: shortened diff (4.4), short shifter, group N top mounts, rebuilt engine and box, solid engine mounts, 1.75" exhaust, strut brace, OMP wheel, GTI suspension & subframe front and rear, lowered 30mm front and rear, solid rear bush, Koni yellows, 306 XT front discs and calipers, ADR compliant braided brake lines, 14" rallye wheels, Dunlop Direzza Z1 Star Spec tyres, immobiliser

  24. #24
    1000+ Posts jo proffi's Avatar
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    That car is fine, just give it a good clean and polish.

    Its not the lack of clear coat that i see as the ugly factor, it is the abundance of mould and bird crap.

    For the rust, spray fish oil into it and then again every 6 month, and it wont get worse.


    Jo

  25. #25
    Fellow Frogger!
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    So you can polish the paint after the clear coat comes off? (e.g. everywhere on the bonnet but the leading edge)
    Last edited by Langers; 8th January 2011 at 07:38 PM.
    1992 205 Si
    Current: shortened diff (4.4), short shifter, group N top mounts, rebuilt engine and box, solid engine mounts, 1.75" exhaust, strut brace, OMP wheel, GTI suspension & subframe front and rear, lowered 30mm front and rear, solid rear bush, Koni yellows, 306 XT front discs and calipers, ADR compliant braided brake lines, 14" rallye wheels, Dunlop Direzza Z1 Star Spec tyres, immobiliser

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