Insulated heater pipes?
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  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! Dijon16's Avatar
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    Default Insulated heater pipes?

    I recently replaced the heater core on my 98 406 V6 D8. For the record, it can be done by removing the glovebox, the whole dash does not need to come out.

    The aluminium pipes that come thru the firewall and go into the heater are exposed, they are about 20cm long and get very hot. I was thinking of the pros and cons of insulating them whilst they are still exposed, so they do not leach warm air into the cabin, esp on hot days. I will be refitting the glovebox of course, even if I don't keep gloves in it.

    I could not really think of anything that would work, or would fit. Domestic copper pipes have a very thin green lagging, but they do not carry boiling water, and it may leave an odour in the cabin.

    Solar panels generate very hot water, but they have black foam about an inch think around them which will not fit in the car as the pipes are smaller and much closer together. And it may leave an odour in the cabin.

    I guess that if it was such a good idea, it would have been done at time of manufacture. Any ideas or thoughts ?

    Chris

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    1000+ Posts catshamlet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dijon16 View Post
    I will be refitting the glovebox of course, even if I don't keep gloves in it.


    Chris
    Maybe Santa will send you some gloves, have you been a good boy this year?

    Anyway, is there room to stuff in some fibre glass loft insulation? Insulates as good as anything else when pipes are too close together to fit the real thing.



    Mike.
    Started out with nothing, still got most of it left.

  3. #3
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    exhaust pipe wrap?
    Lets just say we have a few pugs about!

  4. #4
    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dijon16 View Post
    I recently replaced the heater core on my ’98 406 V6 D8. For the record, it can be done by removing the glovebox, the whole dash does not need to come out.

    The aluminium pipes that come thru the firewall and go into the heater are exposed, they are about 20cm long and get very hot. I was thinking of the pros and cons of insulating them whilst they are still exposed, so they do not leach warm air into the cabin, esp on hot days. I will be refitting the glovebox of course, even if I don't keep gloves in it.

    I could not really think of anything that would work, or would fit. Domestic copper pipes have a very thin green lagging, but they do not carry boiling water, and it may leave an odour in the cabin.

    Solar panels generate very hot water, but they have black foam about an inch think around them which will not fit in the car as the pipes are smaller and much closer together. And it may leave an odour in the cabin.

    I guess that if it was such a good idea, it would have been done at time of manufacture. Any ideas or thoughts ?

    Chris
    I don't think I would bother. In cold weather, when the heater is on, ie water flowing the heat gain won't matter.

    In the hot weather, the heater is off, ie no water flow so there will very little heat gain anyway.

    If you still want to insulate them, use air con armorflex lagging , a closed cell rubber tubular insulation. You can split the tube and tape up with black duct tape.
    Last edited by robmac; 25th December 2010 at 08:54 AM.
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    1000+ Posts jo proffi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by robmac View Post
    In the hot weather, the heater is off, ie no water flow so there will very little heat gain anyway.
    I'm surprised a car that modern still retains a coolant flow valve over an air control flap.

    Jo

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    bob
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    G'day,

    you can get split rubber insul hose for domestic service from Bunnings etc in about one metre lengths, probably in both half & three-quarter inch sizes.

    cheers,
    Bob

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    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jo proffi View Post
    I'm surprised a car that modern still retains a coolant flow valve over an air control flap.

    Jo
    Fair comment - I'm could be behind the times a bit!
    The less one interacts with rude, ignorant, critical and argumentative members. The more peaceful life becomes.

  8. #8
    Fellow Frogger! Dijon16's Avatar
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    Thanks for the suggestions, I'll have a look at Bunnings for a start, although it is only bugging me since the pipes were exposed for the heater core. In practice, it is probably more work than what it is worth, and would make no discernable difference.

    Even from the 1989 Mi16 with alleged climate control, the heater is "on" all the time, it is just the flap motor that controls the amount of hot air entering the ducts, and therefore the cabin. The pipes certainly heat up quickly as soon as the motor is running, irrespective of any other setting.

    Chris

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