504 coolant level drop
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  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! Doush_504's Avatar
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    Default 504 coolant level drop

    G'day all
    I noticed that coolant level always decreases very very slowly (need to check every 2-3 months) but recently it is becoming faster (although it is 17 degrees out there ) for no apparent reason. The only thing I've done to my cooling system recently is installing a 82C calorstat (instead of the 75C I had) and a new cap (exactly like the one in the pic)
    The radiator and hoses are in good condition, what should I check for ?
    About the pic of the carb, the C-shaped hose as you can see it has been cancelled, any idea what it is for ? I am thinking of getting it back to work.
    I was thinking of buying a 505 expansion bottle to prevent coolant waste, is this a good idea ? as the small hose (see engine bay pic) goes to the street,
    Advice is much appreciated.
    Thanks

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    Chadi

    1982 504 SR white manual sedan with A/C (257 000 Km)
    2012 308 1.6 VTi Vapor Grey manual H/B (35000 Km)
    1994 405 1.6 white manual sedan (208 000 Km)
    1992 605 SV24 (91 000 Km)
    2005 406 2.0L automatic (Replaced with a 2013 C5)
    1983 505 GR white manual sedan with A/C (170000 Km)

    All since new


  2. #2
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    I hope it is simple like a leaking hose join or a split. Next place to look is to see if the water pump is leaking anywhere. Next is the heater [ wet carpet/ smell of coolant inside car?] The it gets serious.......... leaking head gasket or liner seals? Get the system pressure tested and look for oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil. Blocked or leaking radiator?. If it is still only a small leak a good radiator sealant mixed into the coolant may stop it. Old timers tipped pepper or 2 raw eggs into radiator-never tried it and don't know if it works. Good luck -hope it is a cheap fix. Neil

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    Yep, sounds like a head gasket to me. With the radiator cap off and thermostat open, check in the radiator for bubbles or foam. This can indicate the coolant system being pressurised by a blown head gasket. Also check the spark plugs. If one is cleaner than the others, it'll be the one with water being added to its mixture.
    If there is not sign of external leakage, it must be going inside.



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    Past: 1953 Thames 100E van, 1966 Austin 1800, 1972 XA Falcon V8, 1973 Peugeot 504,
    1984 Mitsubishi Colt, Holden HX Kingswood, 1983 Toyota Corolla XX, 1988 Toyota Corolla 4WD, 2007 Peugeot 307XSE. + various company Falcauriodores.

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    1000+ Posts jo proffi's Avatar
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    To confirm that the head gasket has a breach, have a combustibles test performed on the coolant. It usually costs about $20 at a mechanics workshop.
    This test shows if there are any hydrocarbons in your coolant, which indicates a head gasket breach.

    Sometime the head gasket will be breached and the test comes up neg, but because you have already lost coolant it should be a good test.

    You should collect the waste water from your overlow pipe if for nothing else than to let you know where it is going.
    Many french cars run a presurised overflow bottles but it looks like your car is designed to run a non presurised overflow.

    I'd just start with a coke bottle and see what happens, before getting a proper bottle from a wreck and doing a good install.


    Jo

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    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jo proffi View Post
    To confirm that the head gasket has a breach, have a combustibles test performed on the coolant. It usually costs about $20 at a mechanics workshop.
    This test shows if there are any hydrocarbons in your coolant, which indicates a head gasket breach.

    Sometime the head gasket will be breached and the test comes up neg, but because you have already lost coolant it should be a good test.

    You should collect the waste water from your overlow pipe if for nothing else than to let you know where it is going.
    Many french cars run a presurised overflow bottles but it looks like your car is designed to run a non presurised overflow.

    I'd just start with a coke bottle and see what happens, before getting a proper bottle from a wreck and doing a good install.


    Jo
    If you run a coolant recovery bottle, make sure the end of hose from the radiator overflow is under the coolant level in the recovery bottle.

    You should also use recovery type radiator cap. These caps have seal to ensure all the "over flow coolant" goes does the overflow pipe. This seal is necessary to ensure the coolant in the overflow bottle is "sucked" back into radiator.

    I tend to think, being a 504 with high kilometers there may a head gasket weep.

    A semi permanent repair can be done with Chemiweld which doesn't much harm to the rest of cooling system.

    The correct cap for a 504 is a 4lb (0.28 bar, 28 kilopascal)

  6. #6
    bob
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    G'day,

    install the recovery system. Tells you when your system is not sealed properly cos the water don't go back when it cools. Your replacement cap may be of the right type already - has it got a big rubber washer to seal the cap to the rad "spout" at the top ?

    cheers,
    Bob

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    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jo proffi View Post
    This test shows if there are any hydrocarbons in your coolant, which indicates a head gasket breach.


    Jo
    Jo,

    Not to be difficult, but isn't the test for combustion products in the coolant?

    I would have thought there would be lot's of CO (carbon monoxide) expelled from the combustion chamber. I would not expect many hydrocarbons, because they would have long since evaporated/burnt from the heat.

    CO is very soluble in water as well and low order hydrocarbons are not very soluble.

    cheers

    Robert

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    1000+ Posts jo proffi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by robmac View Post
    Jo,

    Not to be difficult, but isn't the test for combustion products in the coolant?

    I would have thought there would be lot's of CO (carbon monoxide) expelled from the combustion chamber. I would not expect many hydrocarbons, because they would have long since evaporated/burnt from the heat.

    CO is very soluble in water as well and low order hydrocarbons are not very soluble.

    cheers

    Robert
    You may be right Rob, I wouldn't know either way, too technical for me.
    All I know is it goes green


    Jo

  9. #9
    Fellow Frogger! Doush_504's Avatar
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    First of all, thanks for all the replies.
    Quote Originally Posted by neil s View Post
    I hope it is simple like a leaking hose join or a split. Next place to look is to see if the water pump is leaking anywhere. Next is the heater [ wet carpet/ smell of coolant inside car?] The it gets serious.......... leaking head gasket or liner seals? Get the system pressure tested and look for oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil. Blocked or leaking radiator?. If it is still only a small leak a good radiator sealant mixed into the coolant may stop it. Old timers tipped pepper or 2 raw eggs into radiator-never tried it and don't know if it works. Good luck -hope it is a cheap fix. Neil
    The water pump has some strange looking red color on it (I'll take a picture)
    Otherwise no oil in water or vice versa (no Mayonnaise ).
    The head gasket is new, it has done 20K so far, so I wouldn't think it is the cause, but I'll keep my eyes open.

    Quote Originally Posted by Morpheus View Post
    Yep, sounds like a head gasket to me. With the radiator cap off and thermostat open, check in the radiator for bubbles or foam. This can indicate the coolant system being pressurised by a blown head gasket. Also check the spark plugs. If one is cleaner than the others, it'll be the one with water being added to its mixture.
    If there is not sign of external leakage, it must be going inside.
    I'll check the spark plugs and the radiator for bubbles, the car has to be at operating temp of course, right ?

    Quote Originally Posted by jo proffi View Post
    To confirm that the head gasket has a breach, have a combustibles test performed on the coolant. It usually costs about $20 at a mechanics workshop.
    This test shows if there are any hydrocarbons in your coolant, which indicates a head gasket breach.

    Sometime the head gasket will be breached and the test comes up neg, but because you have already lost coolant it should be a good test.

    You should collect the waste water from your overlow pipe if for nothing else than to let you know where it is going.
    Many french cars run a presurised overflow bottles but it looks like your car is designed to run a non presurised overflow.

    I'd just start with a coke bottle and see what happens, before getting a proper bottle from a wreck and doing a good install.
    Jo
    The combustibles test is going to rather difficult.
    I'll install the coke bottle today and see what's what.

    Quote Originally Posted by robmac View Post
    If you run a coolant recovery bottle, make sure the end of hose from the radiator overflow is under the coolant level in the recovery bottle.

    You should also use recovery type radiator cap. These caps have seal to ensure all the "over flow coolant" goes does the overflow pipe. This seal is necessary to ensure the coolant in the overflow bottle is "sucked" back into radiator.

    I tend to think, being a 504 with high kilometers there may a head gasket weep.

    A semi permanent repair can be done with Chemiweld which doesn't much harm to the rest of cooling system.

    The correct cap for a 504 is a 4lb (0.28 bar, 28 kilopascal)
    Isn't the cap you are talking about the same in the pic, it has the same pressure & the rubber seal.
    The head gasket has only done 20K.

    Quote Originally Posted by bob View Post
    G'day,

    install the recovery system. Tells you when your system is not sealed properly cos the water don't go back when it cools. Your replacement cap may be of the right type already - has it got a big rubber washer to seal the cap to the rad "spout" at the top ?

    cheers,
    Bob
    I do think it does, please check the picture and tell me if it is the correct one.
    Chadi

    1982 504 SR white manual sedan with A/C (257 000 Km)
    2012 308 1.6 VTi Vapor Grey manual H/B (35000 Km)
    1994 405 1.6 white manual sedan (208 000 Km)
    1992 605 SV24 (91 000 Km)
    2005 406 2.0L automatic (Replaced with a 2013 C5)
    1983 505 GR white manual sedan with A/C (170000 Km)

    All since new


  10. #10
    1000+ Posts Beano's Avatar
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    Hi Doush,
    Old 504s and 505s have porous cylinder heads. When these cylinder heads were made they were cast in sand. The metal is not fantastic ( despite being Peugeots ). Yes ! It's true. Tiny holes let water through.
    You may be leaking water very slightly into a combustion chamber.....or even out the side of the head and down onto the block.
    It doesn't happen VERY often, but when you have checked everything else, and the water level goes down but you can't find where it is going to, this is the cause. Check the simple things first though.

    If all indications show this is the case, use a sealant such as Chemiweld, which you add to the water ( or something similar......they are often based on silica ). Leave it in the radiator for about a week. DO NOT OPEN THE RADIATOR CAP UNTIL THE ENGINE IS QUITE COLD. The pressure forces sealant into the holes and seals them.


    Furthermore, the engine does not have to be hot to check for bubbles. However if there are bubbles from combustion gas in the water, the engine will be getting quite hot. If it's not getting hotter than normally, you won't have bubbles from a blown gasket.
    The bubbles are exhaust gas......they are VERY hot !
    Last edited by Beano; 21st December 2010 at 04:29 PM.

  11. #11
    1000+ Posts Peter Chisholm's Avatar
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    If all else fails, check the two large welsh plugs at the back of the cylinder head. If they are the original ones they are probably rusty on the inside and may have very small holes but look pretty good on the outside. With the engine warm and the cooling system pressure up they leak.

    This isn't easy to check and you may have to poke around with the aid of a mirror and torch.

  12. #12
    1000+ Posts BIGRR's Avatar
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    Default Water level

    Quote Originally Posted by Doush_504 View Post
    G'day all
    I noticed that coolant level always decreases very very slowly (need to check every 2-3 months) but recently it is becoming faster (although it is 17 degrees out there ) for no apparent reason. The only thing I've done to my cooling system recently is installing a 82C calorstat (instead of the 75C I had) and a new cap (exactly like the one in the pic)
    The radiator and hoses are in good condition, what should I check for ?
    About the pic of the carb, the C-shaped hose as you can see it has been cancelled, any idea what it is for ? I am thinking of getting it back to work.
    I was thinking of buying a 505 expansion bottle to prevent coolant waste, is this a good idea ? as the small hose (see engine bay pic) goes to the street,
    Advice is much appreciated.
    Thanks
    My hand book for the 504 instructs to only "top up to 5cm below filler orifice". My 504 always kicked the top 5cm of water out and found its own level if overfilled (it has only done this for 37 years).

    Good luck

    PS you do only have a 4 psi cap fitted (I hope).
    Present fleet:-
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    Peugeot 73' 504 Ti from new
    Peugeot 08' 407 Hdi Coupe from new

    Previous fleet:-
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    Peugeot 92' 205 Gti
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  13. #13
    1000+ Posts Wildebeest's Avatar
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    Chadi,
    The 'combustibles' check can be done with a CO meter.
    If you can get your local garage guy to oblige, have him hold the hose near the radiator filler. Not In the coolant. If it has a combustion chamber leak it will give a higher than normal CO reading on the gauge.
    It's difficult to say if your new? radiator cap is the correct type. If it is the 'recovery' type it will be stamped on the cap.

    Check the head on the exhaust side at the joint with the block. Look for wetness [coolant] at this point.
    My 504 gasket had a weep here. Removed head and found the gasket the cause. The block isn't particularly wide at this point, 15mm, requiring the surface to be very clean before fitting a gasket.

    The recovery system I'm using may take half a cup of coolant every 6 months. I put this down to evaporation from the recovery bottle.
    The pressure cap is on the radiator with a plain 'gutted' cap on the bottle.

    PS. The CO tester at the Volvo place I worked at spent 50% of its time 'sniffing' V6 Volvo radiators for combustion leaks !!

  14. #14
    bob
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    G'day,

    can't tell from picture, but it looks like there is no seal for the filler neck ? but this is the old cap ?

    The recycling bottle is, of course, open to the atmosphere. They usually have a little breather hole in the lid or at the top somewhere and the hose from your overflow will have it's end below the level of the water in the bottle.

    cheers,
    Bob
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 504 coolant level drop-oldcap.jpg  

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    G'day all,
    I would like to thank everyone for their help.
    Today I installed the recovery bottle and found leaks at the welsh plugs as suggested by Peter Chisholm.

    Quote Originally Posted by Beano View Post
    Hi Doush,
    Old 504s and 505s have porous cylinder heads. When these cylinder heads were made they were cast in sand. The metal is not fantastic ( despite being Peugeots ). Yes ! It's true. Tiny holes let water through.
    You may be leaking water very slightly into a combustion chamber.....or even out the side of the head and down onto the block.
    It doesn't happen VERY often, but when you have checked everything else, and the water level goes down but you can't find where it is going to, this is the cause. Check the simple things first though.

    If all indications show this is the case, use a sealant such as Chemiweld, which you add to the water ( or something similar......they are often based on silica ). Leave it in the radiator for about a week. DO NOT OPEN THE RADIATOR CAP UNTIL THE ENGINE IS QUITE COLD. The pressure forces sealant into the holes and seals them.

    Furthermore, the engine does not have to be hot to check for bubbles. However if there are bubbles from combustion gas in the water, the engine will be getting quite hot. If it's not getting hotter than normally, you won't have bubbles from a blown gasket.
    The bubbles are exhaust gas......they are VERY hot !
    The car does not get hot, and you can see where the temp gauge is sitting in the last picture, this is after a 26 Km trip. It gets to that position and stays there the whole time unless I increase my speed (over 100-110 kph) it gets a little higher.
    I might use one of the 3 bottom (left column) products
    http://www.gunk.com/menu_CS.asp
    what do you think ?

    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Chisholm View Post
    If all else fails, check the two large welsh plugs at the back of the cylinder head. If they are the original ones they are probably rusty on the inside and may have very small holes but look pretty good on the outside. With the engine warm and the cooling system pressure up they leak.

    This isn't easy to check and you may have to poke around with the aid of a mirror and torch.
    I think you are right Peter,
    it seems that one of the welsh plugs is leaking indeed (see pictures 6 & 7). So, are these changeable ? What shall I do ?
    Thanks again.

    Quote Originally Posted by BIGRR View Post
    My hand book for the 504 instructs to only "top up to 5cm below filler orifice". My 504 always kicked the top 5cm of water out and found its own level if overfilled (it has only done this for 37 years).

    Good luck

    PS you do only have a 4 psi cap fitted (I hope).
    Yes indeed, and I do have a 4 psi cap (see second picture, it says 0.28 Bar) .

    Quote Originally Posted by Wildebeest View Post
    Chadi,
    It's difficult to say if your new? radiator cap is the correct type. If it is the 'recovery' type it will be stamped on the cap.

    Check the head on the exhaust side at the joint with the block. Look for wetness [coolant] at this point.
    My 504 gasket had a weep here. Removed head and found the gasket the cause. The block isn't particularly wide at this point, 15mm, requiring the surface to be very clean before fitting a gasket.

    The recovery system I'm using may take half a cup of coolant every 6 months. I put this down to evaporation from the recovery bottle.
    The pressure cap is on the radiator with a plain 'gutted' cap on the bottle.
    The radiator cap has "TH2" & "Fx" written on it, no idea what it indicates but it is identical to the old one. I took a picture of the new one today.
    About the gasket, I'll have to go under the car and check it.
    Do you use a coke bottle for the recovery system or another's peugeot expansion bottle ?

    Quote Originally Posted by bob View Post
    G'day,

    can't tell from picture, but it looks like there is no seal for the filler neck ? but this is the old cap ?

    The recycling bottle is, of course, open to the atmosphere. They usually have a little breather hole in the lid or at the top somewhere and the hose from your overflow will have it's end below the level of the water in the bottle.

    cheers,
    Bob
    I took pictures of the new cap, please check them and tell me what you think.
    I also made sure that the end of the hose going to the bottle is touching its bottom, so it is as low as it can go and therefore always below water.

    Thanks again to all of you.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 504 coolant level drop-img_0404.jpg   504 coolant level drop-img_0406.jpg   504 coolant level drop-img_0407.jpg   504 coolant level drop-img_0408.jpg   504 coolant level drop-img_0409.jpg   504 coolant level drop-img_0410.jpg  

    504 coolant level drop-img_0412.jpg   504 coolant level drop-img_0416.jpg  
    Chadi

    1982 504 SR white manual sedan with A/C (257 000 Km)
    2012 308 1.6 VTi Vapor Grey manual H/B (35000 Km)
    1994 405 1.6 white manual sedan (208 000 Km)
    1992 605 SV24 (91 000 Km)
    2005 406 2.0L automatic (Replaced with a 2013 C5)
    1983 505 GR white manual sedan with A/C (170000 Km)

    All since new


  16. #16
    1000+ Posts jo proffi's Avatar
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    ewww,, there is oil all over your radiator cap. That is a very bad, but clear sign.

    Look on the bright side, at least you can skip that combustibles test.

    Jo

  17. #17
    Fellow Frogger! Doush_504's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jo proffi View Post
    ewww,, there is oil all over your radiator cap. That is a very bad, but clear sign.

    Look on the bright side, at least you can skip that combustibles test.

    Jo
    I think it's rust
    This phenomena happens whenever the level goes down, as long as the water is topped, there is no such sign and the cap looks clean.
    Also the water color is green not brown or "mayonnaise".
    Chadi

    1982 504 SR white manual sedan with A/C (257 000 Km)
    2012 308 1.6 VTi Vapor Grey manual H/B (35000 Km)
    1994 405 1.6 white manual sedan (208 000 Km)
    1992 605 SV24 (91 000 Km)
    2005 406 2.0L automatic (Replaced with a 2013 C5)
    1983 505 GR white manual sedan with A/C (170000 Km)

    All since new


  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doush_504 View Post
    First of all, thanks for all the replies.

    The water pump has some strange looking red color on it (I'll take a picture).
    Sounds like the slow leak I've got from one of my coolant hoses that oozes a red substance. Same very slow rate too.
    504 GL Coupe '73 Silver
    504 GTDT Pickup Mini-Motorhome '83 Coral Red
    407 HDi Sedan '05

  19. #19
    1000+ Posts jo proffi's Avatar
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    Nah, its not rust, its slime.

    You clearly have coolant in your block, I can see that from its green colour, but that residue is not "just rust".
    It is oil residue from somewhere.

    It is not so uncommon on an engine that is seldom used for a bit of mayonaise to form on the filler cap, until the temp of the engine is hot enough for long enough time to evaporate it all off.

    No such disipation happens when the transition of fluid is the other way, as when the oil seeps into the coolant.
    The oil scum will not go away, and apart from being a sign of terminal issues that need remedial work, it will coat your heat exchange surfaces with a loverly layer of insulating slime.

    As far as I'm concerned, your initial enquiry as to where the water was going has now been answered by the image of your radiator cap.

    Jo

  20. #20
    bob
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    G'day,

    also no filler neck seal in that cap, you only have the old fashioned one with the brass plate at the filler neck - you need one with the rubber washer at that spot and the one way valve at the business end for the no-loss system to work.

    Cut the hose in the bottle to an angle so that it can't seal itself against the bottom of the bottle.

    Jo, maybe the scum is from stuffed water pump seals ?

    cheers,
    Bob

  21. #21
    1000+ Posts jo proffi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bob View Post
    G'day,

    also no filler neck seal in that cap, you only have the old fashioned one with the brass plate at the filler neck - you need one with the rubber washer at that spot and the one way valve at the business end for the no-loss system to work.

    Cut the hose in the bottle to an angle so that it can't seal itself against the bottom of the bottle.

    Jo, maybe the scum is from stuffed water pump seals ?

    cheers,
    Bob
    Nah Bob, its oil. I'll put a beer on it.
    I've seen that look on enough of my clapped out old renaults over the years to recognise that one.
    You waste your time doing a clean and flush, and the scum still keeps coming back.



    Doush,
    Looking at the beautifuly elegant coke bottle bodge up, is that black stuff a sealer??
    The top of the coke bottle needs to breath a bit, so if its a sealer and it is sealing, remove some of it.
    To keep the tube in the cap, a cable tie on the waste side of the tube will do the trick.

    Jo

  22. #22
    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jo proffi View Post
    Nah Bob, its oil. I'll put a beer on it.
    I've seen that look on enough of my clapped out old renaults over the years to recognise that one.
    You waste your time doing a clean and flush, and the scum still keeps coming back.



    Doush,
    Looking at the beautifuly elegant coke bottle bodge up, is that black stuff a sealer??
    The top of the coke bottle needs to breath a bit, so if its a sealer and it is sealing, remove some of it.
    To keep the tube in the cap, a cable tie on the waste side of the tube will do the trick.

    Jo
    I'm afraid it's one of the rare times I fully agree with Joe.

    Stick a tin of chemiweld in it and watch the problems go away for around 12 months!

    This symptoms you have is almost standard for high mile pugs run on "hard" water.

    If you do the cylinder head gasket be prepared for some welding to fix the corrosion - also be careful not to dislodge the liners- they will leak later. You will probably end doing work on the valves and guides as well.

    If you don't want a can of worms flush the cooling system very well and then treat with a chemiweld.

  23. #23
    1000+ Posts jo proffi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by robmac View Post
    I'm afraid it's one of the rare times I fully agree with Joe.

    .

    Ah, its christmas, Robe, It'll be new year soon and we can go back to locking horns then.


    Jo

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Uffee View Post
    Sounds like the slow leak I've got from one of my coolant hoses that oozes a red substance. Same very slow rate too.
    I think that is one of many places leaking slowly

    Quote Originally Posted by bob View Post
    G'day,
    also no filler neck seal in that cap, you only have the old fashioned one with the brass plate at the filler neck - you need one with the rubber washer at that spot and the one way valve at the business end for the no-loss system to work.
    Cut the hose in the bottle to an angle so that it can't seal itself against the bottom of the bottle.
    Jo, maybe the scum is from stuffed water pump seals ?
    cheers,
    Bob
    Bob, could you please post a pic of the setup you're talking about because I don't quite understand the part concerning the cap.

    Quote Originally Posted by jo proffi View Post
    Nah Bob, its oil. I'll put a beer on it.
    I've seen that look on enough of my clapped out old renaults over the years to recognise that one.
    You waste your time doing a clean and flush, and the scum still keeps coming back.

    Doush,
    Looking at the beautifuly elegant coke bottle bodge up, is that black stuff a sealer??
    The top of the coke bottle needs to breath a bit, so if its a sealer and it is sealing, remove some of it.
    To keep the tube in the cap, a cable tie on the waste side of the tube will do the trick.

    Jo
    I'll let the bottle breathe no prob. But I have a question, if the oil is going into the water, then why is the water decreasing ? is it going into the oil ?
    Do you recommend removing the cylinder head and have it machined or what do you think are the proper steps ?

    Quote Originally Posted by robmac View Post
    Stick a tin of chemiweld in it and watch the problems go away for around 12 months!
    This symptoms you have is almost standard for high mile pugs run on "hard" water.
    If you do the cylinder head gasket be prepared for some welding to fix the corrosion - also be careful not to dislodge the liners- they will leak later. You will probably end doing work on the valves and guides as well.

    If you don't want a can of worms flush the cooling system very well and then treat with a chemiweld.
    You mean corrosion in the cylinder head, right ?
    I found some old pics of the cyl. head, tell me what you think.
    I don't understand that last part
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 504 coolant level drop-hpim4519.jpg   504 coolant level drop-hpim4521.jpg   504 coolant level drop-hpim4522.jpg   504 coolant level drop-hpim4523.jpg  
    Chadi

    1982 504 SR white manual sedan with A/C (257 000 Km)
    2012 308 1.6 VTi Vapor Grey manual H/B (35000 Km)
    1994 405 1.6 white manual sedan (208 000 Km)
    1992 605 SV24 (91 000 Km)
    2005 406 2.0L automatic (Replaced with a 2013 C5)
    1983 505 GR white manual sedan with A/C (170000 Km)

    All since new


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    Quote Originally Posted by Doush_504 View Post
    But I have a question, if the oil is going into the water, then why is the water decreasing ? is it going into the oil ?
    Do you recommend removing the cylinder head and have it machined or what do you think are the proper steps ?

    In the head there is a water jacket, oil chambers, and the combustion chamber.
    Those three are all kept isolated from each other by the head gasket.
    Once the gasket fails to seal the 3 parts stuff can go any way. Obviously oil is going into the coolant, and maybe coolant is going into the oil but you are burning it off as steam, or it is going into the combustion chamber and blowing out the zorst pipe.

    What to do??
    I suppose it depends on a number of things, budget, value of car, care factor, age of head, time off the road.
    Jo

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