306 S16 - Breakdown
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  1. #1
    Member HOT306's Avatar
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    Icon9 306 S16 - Breakdown

    G'day all, good that the site is back up and thriving along.

    Well bad news for me, my pug broke down yesterday on the side of the highway.

    Here is the low-down. A few days ago I drove over a small bump and the engine light came on and the car seemed to stall for a second and then went back to normal as I was driving. Had a look over the car everything seemed to be fine.

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    Then yesterday as I was pulling up to lights etc. the car seemed to be struggling to maintain idle revs, dropping to 400-500rpm and back to normal. So I decided to head home. But this was only the beginning.

    As I was driving the car was seeming to shudder every now and then, then the engine light came on as I got onto the highway.

    From then on the car kept stalling and I had to restart. The idle of the car sounded like a WRX. The tip of the muffler is now very black.

    The timing belt is fine. Could this be a coil pack? Any ideas. If the car is misfiring, would this cause heavy fuel use at high speed? Any help would be appreciated.


  2. #2
    1000+ Posts cam85's Avatar
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    Coud be a coil. Not sure why the K light would come on though. Try pulling off the leads one at a time to see which one is perhaps dead. Replace it with a working one and go from there. Not to sure what else it could be. Dead spark plug too? The black exhaust is a good indicator about something a miss with the sparking.
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  3. #3
    1000+ Posts Rod Hagen's Avatar
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    I wonder if a problem with the Cat converter or the Lambda sensor or its connection could also be implicated.
    So might intermittent problems with any one of a number of other sensors - knock, engine temperature, load, throttle position or a problem with the vapour and emission recirculation systems.

    Check sensor connections first. sometimes just giving them a wiggle will indicate if something is getting iffy.
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    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cam85 View Post
    .... Try pulling off the leads one at a time to see which one is perhaps dead.....
    Strictly not recommended.

    You stand to destroy coils and wiring.

    High energy ignition doesn't like being run without a HT return path. Short out a lead briefly (with a well insulated tool)

    I would never suggest running any high energy ignition with a HV lead disconnected.

    Remember a "belt" from a high ignition can be lethal if you are unlucky.

  5. #5
    1000+ Posts Rod Hagen's Avatar
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    Another thought. From memory the 306 motor is similar to the one in my 406. Check that the push rod that controls the "bellows" on the throttle assembly hasn't become stuck or dislodged. This regulated air flow and idle speed and can have nasty impacts on mixture strength etc.
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  6. #6
    1000+ Posts cav91's Avatar
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    Default Coil

    It seems all it could be is a coil pack! Take off the top cover which will then expose the coils! Then simply remove a lead to the coil (one at a time while the car is running) If you remove one that is firing the car will either run even worse or stall. so you know that one is good! Keep doing this untill you find the one that doesn't have any effect on the engine. That one will be the dud coil! Well thats how i checked my car.

    Cheers Chris, sorry if it isn't easy to follow its kinda hard to write what should be spoken!!

  7. #7
    1000+ Posts Rod Hagen's Avatar
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    Mmm, before trying cav91's suggestion, read robmac's post above. robmac's views on this are the same as mine.
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  8. #8
    Member HOT306's Avatar
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    Hello all,

    Thanks for the input, I have cleaned all the connections to most things in the engine bay, put a fresh set of spark plugs in, and checked all the coil packs.

    The car runs, however wont idle correctly seems to run rough at normal idle speed and then the car automatically increases to around 1400RPM and sounds fine.

    Under heavy load above 1400RPM the engine doesn't miss at all.

    Hopefully this shortens the list of possible problems.

    More help?

    Cheers Dom

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    1000+ Posts cav91's Avatar
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    That is exactly how my series two mi16 started (same engine as early s16). I ended up running up of things to change before it stopped idling on four cylnders and only on three! I then gave it a compression test and found one cylinder had almost no compression. I then pulled the head off, had it rebuilt and refitted it. It was then good for about 10,000 kms before it started knocking so badly that i couldnt get it to go above 2,500 rpm! Now we have come to the conclusion it was all a brocken piston so its now getting a new engine fitted.
    I hope your's doesn't end up like this! Its proven to be very costly!

  10. #10
    Sans Pond. STALLED's Avatar
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    Well - given that the "K-Light" is on, why not read the fault codes which are being displayed!

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  11. #11
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    If it is a suspect coil, you should check each coil with the engine stopped with a multimeter. The primary will be open circuit, or failing that, will return a higher resistance than a normal coil.
    I recently went through the experience of two of my coils giving it up. The engine diagnostic light will come on and the engine will not have full power because it senses raw fuel going into the combustion chamber with no spark. Change the oil and filter too.
    John405

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    hi HOT306 did u end up working out what was the actull problem?

    im having some similiar issues

    thanks

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    Quote Originally Posted by Marcello View Post
    hi HOT306 did u end up working out what was the actull problem?

    im having some similiar issues

    thanks
    Vacuum leak!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by HOT306 View Post
    Vacuum leak!!
    oh geez where abouts the vacum hose to the ecu?

  15. #15
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    Marcello, if you have no luck with vac hose, I was having similar probs and had a coil replaced today that fixed the rough idle but mechanic reset codes 52 (oxy sensor) and could have been ?32 (ac av switch or sensor if I recall correctly). Eng management light has returned at high speed on freeway but disapears and car runs well. Will see what codes reads when back at mechanic in late Nov.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Proudys306 View Post
    Marcello, if you have no luck with vac hose, I was having similar probs and had a coil replaced today that fixed the rough idle but mechanic reset codes 52 (oxy sensor) and could have been ?32 (ac av switch or sensor if I recall correctly). Eng management light has returned at high speed on freeway but disapears and car runs well. Will see what codes reads when back at mechanic in late Nov.

    thats exactly what happens to me, on the freeways at high speeds 130- 150 the light comes on or .. travelling at high speeds for a while..

    please update us when u hear wat it was ..thanks

  17. #17
    1000+ Posts cav91's Avatar
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    haha probably shouldn't admit 130-150!

    Hot 306 can you verify which vacuum hose it was?
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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by cav91 View Post
    haha probably shouldn't admit 130-150!

    Hot 306 can you verify which vacuum hose it was?
    ahahaha whats a sports car for eh lol

  19. #19
    Member HOT306's Avatar
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    Was the hose join coming off the ECU.

  20. #20
    1000+ Posts cav91's Avatar
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    Damn I know that one is good!

    I wound my mi16 out yesterday, won't say how fast it went, I know some of the cops on here personaly!
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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by HOT306 View Post
    Was the hose join coming off the ECU.
    hey mate

    i heard this avac is a problem in the s16's


    to be honest i have no power under 4500rpm .. i though it was cat/exuhast/sparks/ coils and it wasnt

    is there anyway to check if this avac system is functining properly or wear to look

    thanks

  22. #22
    1000+ Posts cav91's Avatar
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    Not sure whats the avac system,

    But no power below 4,500 is the pods on either end of the inlet manifold aren't working.
    I just changed both after refitting the engine and it all work great! Heaps of torque!
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  23. #23
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    well i just looked at them and there not moving

  24. #24
    1000+ Posts cav91's Avatar
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    THat'll be the problem. Start by checking for vacuum leaks. Then changing the pods!
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  25. #25
    Member Marcello's Avatar
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    ok there was no vacum leaks i blew and blew away and nothing
    then i sucked into the pipe going into the pods and they started moving .
    so i follwed the pipe to some wierd looking thing on the side of the block
    it had 3 hole outputs
    which i found wierd.. cause they both connect into each other like in the picture with the red line.. is that right?



    also what pople are saying theres some solenioid to check i cant seem to find it :O
    thanks
    Last edited by Marcello; 2nd November 2011 at 10:19 PM.

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