306 Coil Pack Failure??
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  1. #1
    Member Linchpin's Avatar
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    May 2005
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    Swansea, SouthWales
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    Default 306 Coil Pack Failure??

    Apologies for the double post (this is also @ frenchcarforum.co.uk)

    Hi guys, homefully someone can help me out here before i spend too much cash!

    My 306 isnt right, the symptoms are as follows.

    1. Juddery when pulling off, this only happens in 1st gear, and is gone once the clutch is fully up. Odd, if you pull off in 2nd, it doesnt do it.

    I dont think its the clutch, becouse if i pull off at over 2000rpm, no judder.

    2. I left the car for 5 days, and then it didnt start very well. I normally drive the car every day so i dont notice, but due to illness it was left standing. It was mis-firing and spluttering, untill i took it around the block, then all was well again.

    The car doesnt pull like it should, especially at low RPM's. It feels as if some turbo kicks in (i wish!) at 2500 rpm ish, kinda ties in with the pulling off thing.

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    I had the car code-read by a Diag2000 machine before, due to an idle fault and had the idle controller replaced, thats all OK now.

    Im 99% sure the car still has its original coil pack on (thats the bit that connects to the spark plugs, yes?)

    Plugs, etc have been changed recently and this made no difference. Oddly, the car seems to judder less when she is cold (maybe related to the sam higher RPM thing whilst the choke is on).

    Sorrry this is so long winded, i wanted to post as much info as possible!

    Thanks again guys (and gals!)

    Kev
    306 Xsi 16V

    1997 306 XSi 16V, Full Stainless Exhaust, Pipercross Induction Kit, JVC / Pioneer ICE

  2. #2
    Tadpole
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
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    Sydney / Australia
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    Default

    Hi Kev

    Below is a copy of a post I made to another forum regarding my Citroen Xsara. I think they have the same 1.6Lt, 16 valve engine as the Pug 306. The problems I had were hesitation and when you slowed down for a round-about there was no power to pull away. As you can read I am a great fan of checking the vacuum hoses which I am cnvinced were the root of my problem which are now fixed. The fact that my car is an automatic with the AL4 gearbox just made things worse. Good luck.

    I have a 2002 Xsara 1.6 auto I bought 2nd hand with 60,00km after 3 years with its original owner which had similar problems the dealer couldn't identify. I managed to get the car running well by checking and adjusting the vacuum pipe fittings.

    The dealer said they were ok but using ptfe plumbing tape and a heavy duty grease I got them to seal properly. Another problem was that the vacuum pipes were loose (flapping around in the breeze) and going round a sharp corner the automatic would go into limp-home mode. Using cable ties to keep the hose located across the top of the engine in position overcame that final problem.

    Prior to that I had the dealer resetting software and saying everthing was ok but clearly the engine wasn't running properly and the gear-changes were not working smoothly either plus the kick-down was not functioning.

    The Haynes manual gives passing mention to the vacuum hoses causing this trouble but no information on how to fix the problem. If genuine parts are available they should be the prefered option but for less than a dollar for plumbing tape and cable ties I have the car running perfectly for me.

    I also installed a new set of spark plugs which Haynes said was the second most likely cause of problems after the vacuum hoses but I can't say if they made any significant difference while fixing the vacuum hoses made a huge improvement. Now I'm enjoying the car the way I expected to.

    good luck you guys, lauriel

  3. #3
    1000+ Posts alan moore's Avatar
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    Default

    Surprisingly an engine needs a fatter spark at low revs under load than it does at 6000 Rpm. Quite possibly one of your coils is defective. Possibly the reason it gets worse when heated up is the coil is also hotter and more likely to break down.

    If it missed at all Rpm, and stopped and did not start again till it cooled I would steer you toward the Top Dead Centre Sensor.

    My Renault Alpine GTA Turbo recently had similar problems. It would accept full boost when cold, but would only take a couple of pound when hot and it would miss badly. I replaced the coil and all is well. New platinum plugs and new leads, distributor cap and rotor button had been replaced only a few months ago,( before the problems started) and so were not suspected.
    '56 Renault 750 (16TS Power)
    '62 Renault Dauphine Gordini
    '89 Renault Alpine GTA V6 Turbo
    02 and 03 Renault Clios 1.4L
    '13 Renault Megane RS265 Trophee +

  4. #4
    Member Linchpin's Avatar
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    Thanks for the advice guys

    I think i may need to get this on a Diag2000 machine and find out what it is, down my way its cheaper to do that than go replacing coilpacks etc.

    Peugeots eh?



    Why do we love em???

    Heh!!
    306 Xsi 16V

    1997 306 XSi 16V, Full Stainless Exhaust, Pipercross Induction Kit, JVC / Pioneer ICE

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