taken my gti-6 into Greg Kent today
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  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Default taken my gti-6 into Greg Kent today

    Off for the long weekend and thought I would get my cam belt and water pump replaced as I had done 65k's and thought it wise to be done before a road trip. Also asked if they could fit the rear strut brace - to see if it fits, if it doesn't then I want to get rid of it naturally. He isn't sure how it will comply with the warrant people so may not fit it for me. Would love my clutch to be had a look at also because it has bugger all give in it and makes the car rather easy to move in first without gas but in saying that I don’t want the rev’s to be high if I get caught in rush hour tomorrow….

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  2. #2
    1000+ Posts U Turn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blakeynz
    Would love my clutch to be had a look at also because it has bugger all give in it and makes the car rather easy to move in first without gas but in saying that I don’t want the rev’s to be high if I get caught in rush hour tomorrow….
    There's a rear strut brace for the gti6!?

    What do you mean the clutch has little give in it, and also why would the revs be too high? Sorry, am a bit confused about what you mean.
    Take the long way home....

    - 306 gti6

  3. #3
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    The previous owner put a strut brace into the rear of the car - above the parcel shelf and I am wanting to see if it fits.

    The clutch is not very forgiving i.e. not smooth when you realise it. Releases in jolts hence why I call it sticky. The revs are quite high when the car is idling, such as when in heavy traffic. I can let the car travelling along just by letting the clutch out a little - i know this isn't revolutionary at all - however doing this means I notice how high the car will be idling.

    Get what I mean now?

  4. #4
    I might be slow... DRTDVL's Avatar
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    sure it's not a heavy duty clutch?

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    1000+ Posts CHRI'S16's Avatar
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    The high idle? is the a/c on? as the car should idle a little higher with a/c on. If not get it cheked. As for the clutch, its two things worn or needs adjustment. I doubt its heavy duty as the OEM gti6 clutch wasn't known for its smoothness. - Chris
    ... ptui!

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blakeynz
    The previous owner put a strut brace into the rear of the car - above the parcel shelf and I am wanting to see if it fits.

    The clutch is not very forgiving i.e. not smooth when you realise it. Releases in jolts hence why I call it sticky. The revs are quite high when the car is idling, such as when in heavy traffic. I can let the car travelling along just by letting the clutch out a little - i know this isn't revolutionary at all - however doing this means I notice how high the car will be idling.

    Get what I mean now?
    Oh ok. Yeah I've never heard of the rear strut brace for the '6 before.

    The clutch on these cars is heavy. Also the clutch cable is known to degrade quickly which maybe the reason it's sticking.

    Even at normal idle (about 1000 rpm) the car should move without accelerator. I've even got this to happen up medium incline hills. These engines have a decent amount of torque and I think flywheel is reasonably heavy too which probably is the reason it can do this.
    Take the long way home....

    - 306 gti6

  7. #7
    I might be slow... DRTDVL's Avatar
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    mines going in on wednesday as i've lost a lot of mid-range power for some reason... also had the engine check light come on while driving down the motorway...

  8. #8
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    Picked the car up from Greg on Friday and took it away for the long weekend. Is driving brilliantly. Very smooth. He fixed the high idle for me – which was basically the accelerator cable being held in a fixed position in the engine bay which had it revving ever so slightly. So that is now sorted. We spoke about the clutch cable having different components to it – i.e. wire, then plastic and so on. However the plastic grips against each other and this can cause it to ‘stick’. Best solution is to get a new cable. May purchase a quick shift to shorten the gears a little. Only other wee issue I can think of, is the noisy god damn stereo and stereo surround! Rattles is little ass off when going over bumps. Grrrr! O yeah and get the front bumper bended after nice neighbour reversed into it. Nothing major but it does grate me somewhat….

  9. #9
    I might be slow... DRTDVL's Avatar
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    i still think you should get him to pay for it

  10. #10
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    Oh trust me I am. Got all the quotes for parts and paint together and giving to him this week which is choice. Parts are in at Contis so just need to pick them up.

    Going to get the side mouldings colour coded also.

  11. #11
    I might be slow... DRTDVL's Avatar
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    funky...

    good luck with it all...

  12. #12
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    Also, where do we source a lowering kit in nz for these cars? Nothing too low of course.

  13. #13
    I might be slow... DRTDVL's Avatar
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    Depends on what you want...

    do you just want lowered or adjustable hight (full adjustment) or adjustable damper (stiffness not hight adjustable)?

    i've been looking for adjustable damper - a few places can supply internally adjustable suspension (Koni's)

    A lot can supply hight (platform) adjustable syspension - D2, Spax, Koni

    Just be warned get good stuff as you can make the car handle worse, if you get crappy stuff..

    Look for Bilstien, Koni, Eibach, Olhuns, Avo...

    Have fun tryin to find them... call autolign the should be able to help you

    Greg should be able to sort it out for you...

  14. #14
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    I have bilstein on there at the mo.

    But would like to look at having things a little lower. Again nothing too drastic though.

    Will have a look at a new online pug shop which I've just been sent a link for.

  15. #15
    I might be slow... DRTDVL's Avatar
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    get some eibach springs then

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    Default Clutch

    Interestingly, when i got my 306 gti6 clutch done last week, it lightened things up considerably, but made the clutch take-up much more immediate, so i have effectively had to re-learn how to drive the car. Even stalled it a few times at the lights with not enough revs !

    Beware - the job is a 'major' if you want to do it right. All-up cost me $AUD1800 at Regans, but that included a new cable, & a few extras they found (drive-shaft seal / rear main-seal / thermostat). The cost meant i couldnt afford to get the gear linkages done at the same time which was annoying !! Thank christ for Fleetcard !! (my wife wouldnt have liked that on the Visa this close to the Melbourne Cup).

    If you are from Auckland this would be a bit pricey at Continental, but they are the best for Peugoet.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by strada
    If you are from Auckland this would be a bit pricey at Continental, but they are the best for Peugoet.
    I don't know if this is the case. In terms of non-new Peugeots, Greg Kent seems to be liked by just about everyone who has used him.

    Continental do good work but they are the main dealership and are seriously expensive. Greg Kent used to run the Bill Tapper workshop and clearly has the experience, whilst not charging the rediculous prices of Continental.

  18. #18
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    I like conti's. Used them a few times with other euro's we own and have always been pretty descent blokes. Never really understood why people gave them so much crap.

    However, Greg runs his own shop and I would like to give as much custom to him as possible as he has so much more riding on it's success. Plus a mate of mine, whose opinion I hold pretty highly, recommended him. To date he has done a pretty spot on job.

    Now time to look at ordering that short shifter..

  19. #19
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    There's nothing wrong with the work of Continental Cars, you just pay a lot for it.

  20. #20
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    Think most people would agree with that.

  21. #21
    I might be slow... DRTDVL's Avatar
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    Conti's are a great company, they have been very very nice to my mom when she's been buy a new car, even lent a few to her to test over a weekend. They seam to go out of their way to help.

    And i wouldn't hesitate to tell people to go there... but as louis was saying the cost is a bit high... I've been going to greg when he was still with bill tapper... Would highly recommend him to anyone, he has a great nack for fixing my cars, and also helps in recommending parts to replace with stronger items, or just to prevent damage...

    gravel roads and cars = high wear and tear + lots of damage....

    anyone else find the trailing arms prone to bending?

    Blakey: how do you want to lower the car but and what type of ride comfort you want? you can get the pug sport garvel spring
    Car model Reference Product name Unit Price
    306 A Group 717068-01 GRAVEL front spring 48.93 €

    so you would need 2
    Last edited by DRTDVL; 25th October 2005 at 03:15 PM.

  22. #22
    I might be slow... DRTDVL's Avatar
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    Well Gregs given me the bad news...

    I need a new vac pob, o2 sensor... 2 more things to add to the growing list of repairs to be done...

  23. #23
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    damn that aint good at all dude. See if you can hit him up for a bit of a deal!

    Suspension wise, I would still like the ride to not be too hard cause the roads in central auckland suck big time. Prob about a 30mm drop. Nothing too dramatic.

  24. #24
    I might be slow... DRTDVL's Avatar
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    have a look at the gravel springs then...

    the other bits need fixing...

    bent trailing arm
    warn control arm bushes
    rocker cover gasket leak
    sump gasket leak
    worn shocks

    hmm... what else...

  25. #25
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    do you have a website for these springs so i can check them out?

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