Pug 504 Goes, But When Braking Hard Car Stalls
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  1. #1
    1000+ Posts Shobbz's Avatar
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    Pug 504 Goes, But When Braking Hard Car Stalls

    As per the title the pug rolls forward yet again. Still no second throat opening on carbie, but for another timw perhaps.

    Installed a new booster (thanks Ray) and brakes work much better. The old booster was STUFFED.

    I still have the problem that when the engine is cold and when braking to a stop the car will stall?

    I though that the booster cyclinder replacement would replace this. Brakes all freshly bled, so guessing the problem is not there?

    Could there be air in the clutch circuit? The manual says that its not easy to bleed. I am up for the challange but is this the problem?

    The clutch does have a lot of travel and feels like its not being fully disengaged atm, maybe its just the syncro's. The clutch pedal is free for the first couple of inches of travel then it engages?

    Any suggestions?

    thanks

    James

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  2. #2
    Gone Fishin' Ray Bell's Avatar
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    From memory, Datsun 200Bs etc have a little valve in the vacuum line that eliminates this problem in those cars.

    Most annoying, we used to have it most of the time in the car I drive now, and I couldn't work it out.

  3. #3
    1000+ Posts Rod Hagen's Avatar
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    Stalling during braking can be due to various things, James.

    Low carby float chamber fuel levels will do it. This can be caused by things like too low a float level, a sticky needle valve or a fuel pump that is on its way out.

    Too low an idle speed will also do it.

    So will a badly adjusted idling set-up generally.

    So will a worn shaft for the throttle butterfly, or badly set up carby linkages (sounds as if you have this at least if the second carby barrel won't open.)

    So will vacuum leaks, or a problem with the vacuum advance on the distributor.

    What do you have the idle speed set at?

    As to the clutch issue, it vwon't be related to the stalling during braking issue. Its worth sorting out though. I'd be suspecting maladjustment of the slave cylinder to clutch thruist lever linkage.

    Good luck

    Rod
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  4. #4
    1000+ Posts Shobbz's Avatar
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    I had a look at everything and decided to do a car wide brake bleed.

    This fixed up the brakes to no end, they now stop

    Then as per the manual I did a dodgy clutch reverse bleed. Hooked up the left brake bleed valve to the clutch bleed and hopefully pushed the air out.

    Clutch operates a bit better, but I will have to get it professionally done.

    At least the car doesn't stall

    Thanks for the tips.

    Any ideas on the second thorat of the carbie?

    thanks

    James
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    2005 407 ST Exec
    1975 504 GL

  5. #5
    Guru davemcbean's Avatar
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    Shobbz:
    Any ideas on the second thorat of the carbie?
    Is the throttle cable adjusted properly? To do this you need to loosen where it clamps to the carby, then pull hard on the cable so that there's no slack, then tighten the clamping nut. This simple procedure often turns a slug into a reasonably sprightly car. My experience indicates that maybe 9 out of 10 504s have too much slack in the throttle cable which results in them being pretty slow.

    When I bought one of my 504s, the choke was disconnected and part of this mechanism was hanging down and jamming the second throat so it couldn't open. The bloke I bought it from said "I think it must have a taller diff". Yeah that's what it felt like, but it was just because the second throat wouldn't open and it had no go. After I fixed that 5 minute job that 504 would accelerate up most freeway hills in top gear, do 160km/h+ on a slight incline, 140 in 3rd, 100 in 2nd and 60 in 1st.

    Dave

    <small>[ 01 September 2003, 03:20 PM: Message edited by: davemcbean ]</small>
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  6. #6
    1000+ Posts Shobbz's Avatar
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    The cable is fairly tight; even so I can still turn the springy thing further down? Would the pedal be bent? Does that spring thing have to be all turned all the way down for the second throat to be engaged?

    My choke was disconnected too. I joined it back up, I think. Itís the little bar that slides into a cylindrical bar with a grove cut out of if?

    So close, I know it

    thanks

    James
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    2005 407 ST Exec
    1975 504 GL

  7. #7
    Guru davemcbean's Avatar
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    You're pedal could be bent, or it could be loose at its pivot, which is a common cause of the same symptoms.

    The barrel on the side of the carburetor that the cable attaches too, needs to be able to turn all the way.

    It sounds like you might need to get somebody experienced to have a close look at your 504. It should be a quick problem to solve, but it's not always easy trying to describe these things in writing.

    Dave
    NZ Fleet
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    1984 205 GT twin carb
    1991 205 SI 1.6GTI motor
    1994 106 Xsi
    1996 Mondeo V6
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  8. #8
    1000+ Posts Shobbz's Avatar
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    Looks like everything is in place.

    Apparently there is someone at stafford who is good with carbie's.

    Will see how it goes

    Shall check the pivot, haven't looked at that yet.

    James
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    2005 407 ST Exec
    1975 504 GL

  9. #9
    Gone Fishin' Ray Bell's Avatar
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    Yep... same problem on this wagon I've just got going.

    It has the 505 engine (circa 1981) runs okay, idles more or less okay (some irregularity about idle speed) but when you pull up (brakes or no brakes) it will stall.

    So what do you reckon? This thing has to pass a blue slip in the morning...

  10. #10
    Budding Architect ???? pugrambo's Avatar
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    float level ????
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  11. #11
    1000+ Posts Rod Hagen's Avatar
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    Ray Bell:
    Yep... same problem on this wagon I've just got going.

    It has the 505 engine (circa 1981) runs okay, idles more or less okay (some irregularity about idle speed) but when you pull up (brakes or no brakes) it will stall.

    So what do you reckon? This thing has to pass a blue slip in the morning...
    For a solution in a hurry, try increasing the idle speed a bit above recommended? Sometimes these things are due to a slightly worn butterfly spindle not having returned fully when the idle speed was set anyway.

    Check for vacuum leaks too (cracked tube ends especially).

    Cheers

    Rod

    <small>[ 10 September 2003, 05:48 PM: Message edited by: Rod Hagen ]</small>
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  12. #12
    Gone Fishin' Ray Bell's Avatar
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    Thing is that this engine did everything right... dead right, when it was last in a car.

    That was about a year ago.

    Only change is that I've tried to make it so all the vacuum lines for the pollution control are in place.

  13. #13
    1000+ Posts Shobbz's Avatar
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    I bleed all my brakes.

    I also force bled my clutch. As per the haynes manual. Solved my problem.

    James
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    2005 407 ST Exec
    1975 504 GL

  14. #14
    Gone Fishin' Ray Bell's Avatar
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    I've found ours too...

    The 'spout' on the top of the oil filler cap/breather was split... it actually broke off while I was hunting around the carby. Replaced it, things are fine.

    Thanks all...

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