205 si Outer RH CV boot blown!!!
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  1. #1
    Tadpole
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    Default 205 si Outer RH CV boot blown!!!

    reading the manual on the weekend I realised this is a bigger job than I had hoped. There is mention of a boot stretcher for getting it over the CV joint as a short cut. Anyone done this before.

    The boot has just cracked and would be great to nip it in the bud!

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    any advice would be great.

    michael.

    P.S I have noticed accelerating right causes some knocking but only in this instance. Is this a RH inner cv going or a LH inner CV?

  2. #2
    Member
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    Boolarra Vic
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    Default You Are Rght!

    Michael,

    it is not a simple job! Just getting the drive shaft out is quite a challenge - very tight axle nut, both steering and bottom ball joints so you can swing the hub out of the way and getting to the two centre bearing carrier bolts is no fun either.! The ball joints can be done with a heavy hammer and a drift if you know how otherwise you will need access to some separater tools. Probaly still cheaper than paying someone to do it and you will have the tools for next time..

    Then comes the fun of getting at the boot. Unfortunately as you have seen without special tools you have to disassemble the inner joint to get at the outer... so you need at least fresh grease and clamps for it even if you are not replacing the boot. The strecher idea is mind boggling as the driveshaft end of the boot is only about25 mm and it would have to stretch over a CV joint that is over 85 mm diameter.. must be some tool!

    Basically there is nothing to do but get a new boot from EAI or someone and bite the bullet or hand it to a competent mechanic.

    The clicking is unlikely to be an inner joint as they do not change angle much at all when you turn the wheel unlike the outer joint. Have someone stand near the car as you turn sharply both directions - it will be pretty apparent which side is making the noise - usually the inside wheel turns further and clicks more so your right joint might need doing so you perhaps should look at just replacing it.

    Good luck

    Trevor
    Trevor Hoare
    Boolarra Vic

    '95 405Mi16 - what a great car! ; 89 405 ( for my daughter )
    previously 205Si, 504Ti, HR wagon with R16 seats, R16, R10, VW kombi, VW passat, HQ panel van, FB panelvan, Rover'49 P3 4-light

  3. #3
    Moderator Alan S's Avatar
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    Default

    We usually do our own and as Trev says, it's not all that easy unless you have a reasonable workshop that includes an extremely firm vice to knock the joint apart. However, last time we needed to do one, I tried the stretch boots as distributed by Turner Driveshafts who seem to distribute their products through plenty of outlets.

    http://www.turnerdriveshafts.com.au/

    I have no connection to them apart from knowing a rep of theirs who also has used them and put big wraps on them. This way, the job is done on the car.
    Now don't get the impression that it's like no hassle; it still is a bit of a drama and you require a cone for stretching that looks like a cut down 'witches hat' from a roadworks job. (I think they also sell them too. Not expensive.)
    To do an inner boot, just silicone spray the cone and the inside of the boot and slide on. It gets pretty hard as it gets towards the top of the cone and as it gets to the last few millemetres, you hold the cone over the outer joint and slide it over, and slide up to position, leave for a few minutes and strap on. With an outer boot, you again silicone spray the cone and turn the boot inside out and spray the outer part and once into position, turn it back around the correct way, tie and trim.
    As a bonus, the stretch boots seem to be a better option as regards life expectancy goes and are usually about 1/4 of the price of the "genuine" boots besides saving the hassles of draining transmissions, removing shafts and replacing seals.
    The knocking could just be a dry CV and it will be on the outer joint on the direction you are turning usually. When the new boot is fitted, it's standard practice to regrease at that time after which you can decide whether the noise has reduced and if the shaft may eventually need replacing. Turners also sell them rebuilt I understand.


    Alan S
    Last edited by Alan S; 7th June 2005 at 07:22 AM.
    If it ain't broke, use a 12" shifter.....that usually does the trick!!

  4. #4
    Tadpole
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    Default

    thanks for all the help.

    Pretty sure that this was the case. Wish Haynes was a little clearer.

    Call Turner and prices were as follows:

    silcone spray: $15
    stretching cone: $20
    boots:$25 each (inc. grease and clamps)

    free delivery which was nice of them.

    I haven't bought them yet as a mate mentioned a company who re-co driveshafts (think his were $140 both shafts) so $135 for replacing the boots sounds a little ott if you can just replace the whole damned shaft, especially if the cv's are on the way soon or sooner.

    michael

  5. #5
    Tadpole Pawley's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by botcolon
    thanks for all the help.

    Pretty sure that this was the case. Wish Haynes was a little clearer.

    Call Turner and prices were as follows:

    silcone spray: $15
    stretching cone: $20
    boots:$25 each (inc. grease and clamps)

    free delivery which was nice of them.

    I haven't bought them yet as a mate mentioned a company who re-co driveshafts (think his were $140 both shafts) so $135 for replacing the boots sounds a little ott if you can just replace the whole damned shaft, especially if the cv's are on the way soon or sooner.

    michael
    I'm getting a similar knocking under acceleration from my RH driveshaft.
    I'm struggling to find somebody to reco both driveshafts in my '92 205Si in Adelaide. Clues from anybody?

  6. #6
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Pawley
    I'm getting a similar knocking under acceleration from my RH driveshaft.
    I'm struggling to find somebody to reco both driveshafts in my '92 205Si in Adelaide. Clues from anybody?
    I changed a driveshaft in my Si because of this and still had the problem.
    It went away after I fitted the Quaife Diff!
    The drive shaft I pulled out has since been used without problems in another car.
    You can get imported reco shafts for around $280
    It is easy to pull the shafts out, remove the steering tie rod, hit the end of the steering arm with a hammer to jar it loose after removing the nut. Take the 16mm bolt out of the bottom of the hub carrier then drop the lower control arm down to slide the ball joint pin out, this is easy in the GTi (did two today), but in the Si you will need a crow bar to lever the control arm down as it is connected to the anti rollbar (which forms the triangulation).
    The entire strut will now swing outwards, if you undo the hub nut the drive shaft can be pulled out of the gearbox by itself.
    Don't forget to drain the gearbox!
    For the right had drive shaft you have to undo two 11mm nuts on the support bearing structure, these aren't hard to get to.
    You can buy a boot stretcher from EAI

    Graham

  7. #7
    Fellow Frogger! koppers's Avatar
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    Default

    I snapped the LHS driveshaft tonight on my '96 306. It 'seems' to be a clean break right under the boot quiote close to the hub, yet to get it up on a hoist though to see properly. I'm pretty sure that I will be able to claim the costs to come under warrenty from the mechanic which recently replaced my clutch, as I am certain that there was an alignment issue.

    Fearing the worst though, with the scenario needing me to deal with it all, where should I look to go? Assuming a clean break, can it simply be welded up again, or will replacement be in order?

    In which case, where should I look for help from someone in Brisbane?

    Thanks in advance.
    "Computer games dont affect kids; I mean if Pac-Man affected us as kids, we'd all be running around in darkened rooms, munching magic pills and listening to repetitive electronic music."

    - Christian Wilson, Nintendo Inc, 1989

  8. #8
    1000+ Posts Wildebeest's Avatar
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    Default CV boot.

    When installing cv boot using the expanding cone the Renault recommendation is to use auto trans oil.
    Experience with trying to fit one using rubber grease then silicone resulted in splitting the new boot, bummer.
    Decided to read w/shop manual, trans oil the thing.

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