504 hot start problem
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  1. #1
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    Default 504 hot start problem

    Hi all

    74 504 has had hot start prob last couple of weeks, turns over but won't catch at all. leave it for an hour or two and she fires up straight away. the coil looked positively ancient so I thought it might be cooking and replaced with new. No difference. So am I right in thinking it's fuel related?
    thanks for any suggestions.

    Patrick
    Auckland NZ

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  2. #2
    Gone Fishin' Ray Bell's Avatar
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    Try tipping some water over the fuel pump before you go to start it...

  3. #3
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 74504
    Hi all

    74 504 has had hot start prob last couple of weeks, turns over but won't catch at all. leave it for an hour or two and she fires up straight away. the coil looked positively ancient so I thought it might be cooking and replaced with new. No difference. So am I right in thinking it's fuel related?
    thanks for any suggestions.

    Patrick
    Auckland NZ
    Does it start, when hot that is, if you hold the accelerator to the floor as you crank it? DO NOT PUMP IT with multiple presses of the accelerator, just press it down and hold it, then crank over. It may be too rich due to boiling fuel down the carburettor throat after it is left standing, a common Solex issue.

    If it does start better (when hot) on this open throttle, go check the carbie. The question is "what has changed"? Something that allows more heat transfer? Or a higher float level maybe? Or a blocked vent?

    Good luck.

    JohnW

  4. #4
    Fellow Frogger!
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    OMG OMG had this exact problem with my 74 ti 504!!!!!

    question: has your tacho been working strangely lately?

    mine was, then my car would only start when it was cold. when it warmed up it would crank over, but wouldn't kick.

    the answer: i disconnected the tachometer from the coil, and that fixed the problem. i have since replaced the tacho and the car starts fine.

  5. #5
    Budding Architect ???? pugrambo's Avatar
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    try a new set of plugs

    cold water on the pump will only cool the pump and not the fuel in the carby where the problem would lay if fuel is hot

    also cold water on pumps only seems to work if you have been cranking and cranking and you have a vapour lock and the fuel in the carby bowl is all used up

    cars will generally start and run for a bit with what is in the bowl without pumping anymore in

    also if the points have closed up it will be hard to start
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  6. #6
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    thanks for the replies, it's pretty much as you describe it John W, last couple of trips she's also been cutting out or near cutting out as the revs drop so i guess this is related to the problem. question is whether this is something i can do anything about (mechanical knowledge= "the engine is at the front")or do i need to take it somewhere.

    patrick

  7. #7
    Tadpole
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    This seem to bee a standard problem with all carburator engines.
    Check your ignition, measure your platinum switch, and pluggs.
    If they are dirty, your car goes too rich on the fuel.
    Or to low on rpm in normal day to day use....
    When this is done, try that rpm counter tip... I have never heard about it before, but I have never owned a 504 either....

    If your carburator gets to hot, maybye that give you an indicator on poor cooling?
    My French friend had that problem on his old 405!

  8. #8
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 74504
    thanks for the replies, it's pretty much as you describe it John W, last couple of trips she's also been cutting out or near cutting out as the revs drop so i guess this is related to the problem. question is whether this is something i can do anything about (mechanical knowledge= "the engine is at the front")or do i need to take it somewhere.

    patrick
    Sounds to me like a general look is required. It doesn't sound like just the problem of fuel boiling after the engine stops if it is nearly cutting out when revs drop. I'd suspect one or all of plugs, points (their condition, gap/dwell and timing), and maybe some muck in the carburettor.

    This is pretty straightforward stuff if you do these things yourself. If you don't, then there is certainly a learning curve ahead. Depends whether you have the time or just want to pass the problem to a competent mechanic.

    Good luck.

    JohnW

  9. #9
    1000+ Posts Wildebeest's Avatar
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    Default 504 hot start problem.

    Patrick,
    Are the heating/cooling hoses still connected to the base of the carb?
    This system not only warms the carb but will also act as a heat transfer when the engine is warm.
    Is there a thick fibre gasket under the carb on this model? If this is missing it could contribute to your problem. This acts as insulation between the manifold and carb to prevent heat rising when the engine is stopped.
    A leaking float needle and seat in the carb wont help. Float levels don't normally change.
    Ignition points, gap and condition? Someone has mentioned this. If renewing points replace the condenser as well if only to have a record of it being done.

    Finally, if your model has a charcoal canister fitted this should vent fuel tank fumes to atmosphere with the engine switched off. If the canisters vacuum control is faulty it will vent directly into the carb. This will "richen" the fuel mixture = hard start. If the system is correct the fumes will only vent to the carb with engine running.

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