Performance Parts?
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  1. #1
    I might be slow... DRTDVL's Avatar
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    Default Performance Parts?

    Hello one and all...

    I've finially decided to register and chat away....

    I've gotten myself a nice little 306 S16 and unfortantly i'm going to be having a few problems in the forseable future... Instead of replaceing the parts with standard parts be it new or second hand. I'm wondering if you might be able to tell me some companies that i can get performance parts from?

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    I've been really tempted to build the car to grp a or maxi spec, but would like to know what you would recomend as performance replacement stuff when my stuff dies before i have the peugeot sport stuff..


    Heath

  2. #2
    1000+ Posts cam85's Avatar
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    Hi there

    If your looking to get an s16 to Grp A spec you will need about 20K. Its very expensive altought the Maxie would look great. Maby start with an inlet cam new suspension and some bigger brakes. LSD also and maby some driver training.

    Cam
    94 205 Gti Classic #9
    91 205 Si
    87 205 GTi Race Car
    http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/res...-race-car.html

  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger! Roland's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DRTDVL
    Hello one and all...

    I've finially decided to register and chat away....

    I've gotten myself a nice little 306 S16 and unfortantly i'm going to be having a few problems in the forseable future... Instead of replaceing the parts with standard parts be it new or second hand. I'm wondering if you might be able to tell me some companies that i can get performance parts from?

    I've been really tempted to build the car to grp a or maxi spec, but would like to know what you would recomend as performance replacement stuff when my stuff dies before i have the peugeot sport stuff..


    Heath
    There' some great reading on this site about Pug engines:
    http://www.pumaracing.co.uk/pug16v.htm


  4. #4
    I might be slow... DRTDVL's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cam85
    maby some driver training.

    Cam
    i've entered a few races in my old 205 and did fairly well lowest i finish was 3rd, but i would definantly be looking to do a rally school. Just to learn a few more things..

    With the cams, i thought it would be best to do both the int and ext cams at the same time... wouldn't it cause issues?

    the problems i am going to have where inhereted with the car, not problems that i will be causing... i.e. i know the clutch will need replacing soon, same with the rear brakes as it's got a reconditioned caliper on the right rear, and a few other things...

    What lsd's would you recommend?

  5. #5
    Fellow Frogger! casnell's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DRTDVL
    i've entered a few races in my old 205 and did fairly well lowest i finish was 3rd, but i would definantly be looking to do a rally school. Just to learn a few more things..

    With the cams, i thought it would be best to do both the int and ext cams at the same time... wouldn't it cause issues?

    the problems i am going to have where inhereted with the car, not problems that i will be causing... i.e. i know the clutch will need replacing soon, same with the rear brakes as it's got a reconditioned caliper on the right rear, and a few other things...

    What lsd's would you recommend?
    Quaiffe ATB
    205gti

  6. #6
    1000+ Posts PeterT's Avatar
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    Whilst the blocks of the XU9j4 and XU10J4 are different, the heads are almost identical. In terms of chamber size, valve size, ports and valve timing, they are identical. So anything you read about tuning a 1.9L Mi16 head applies to the S16 head (whether right or wrong).

    As the exhaust ports are extremely efficient, the standard exhaust cam is more than adequate for what I call Stage I an II inlet cams. ie anything up to approx. 235 deg. @ 0.050". Beware of anyone who tries to sell you identical cams. A Stage II inlet cam and std. exhaust cam is capable of delivering up to 220hp on a 1.9L. The key to power initially is duration not lift. I offer two inlet regrinds, Stage I and II, for $250 exchange, if you're interested. The Stage II requires 10.4:1 min. CR.

    The S16 has 10.4:1, so that's OK. But to really make it come alive, you need to fix the squish distance. Standard, the flat top piston sits approx. 1mm down the bore. So ideally, you need to deck the block approx. 1mm. This just happens to bring the CR up to 11.1:1. Nice!



    My best advice is to leave the engine as is, until you're in a position to strip the block/head and do it all properly. Taking the head off in the car is a pain in the butt.

    Have you seen the S16 Grp. A stuff at www.rallycar.com ?
    Last edited by PeterT; 26th May 2005 at 06:20 PM.

    '92 205 Mi16
    '90 Mi16x4

  7. #7
    I might be slow... DRTDVL's Avatar
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    if i was going to get the cam's done and installed i'd get the head ported/planned/polished at the same time... as i have contacts in the cylinder head business...

    is that $250 aussie or kiwi?

    i hadn't found that site thanks, prices seam resonable... i had been looking at the Boutique Peugeot Sport site for parts....

    what is the squsish distance? couldn't you over come that by running a metal gasket if it's what i'm thinking...

    mainly looking to build the car for as much torque as possible, as i think (not sure if i'm 100% right here) that would help more in acceleration out of corners than top end?

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