Correct bleeding procedure (405 2.0L)
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  1. #1
    MrV
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    Icon5 Correct bleeding procedure (405 2.0L)

    Sorry for digging up this old thread, but i'm still a bit muddled.

    Quote Originally Posted by Alan_S
    Some guys will use a sealer as a matter of course whenever they remove & refit a hose, so unless the hose is totally stuffed it's possibly nothing; only a close inspection of hose & fitting should answer that.
    As Stuey explained, the inner guards are really only plastic cover plates, so once off a spotlight should help see if it's accessible.

    Bleeding isn't a complicated procedure although some tend to make it that way; all I do is fill the filler bottle to the brim and with the cap off, slacken all bleed screws. I usually starts at the bottom one first and if nothing comes out, leave it slackened and open the highest near the top of the radiator. When the lowest begins to flow clear coolant, nip up and go to next lowest and work up until you reach the highest near the top of the radiator (on a BX that's on a small hose adjacent to the radiator) and when it is also flowing clear coolant, nip it off also.
    You need to keep an eye on the level of coolant in the bottle particularly when doing teh one on the steel rail at the back of the engine as it comes from the heater matrix. Be sure the heater is set in the hottest position before you start.
    When complete, refit radiator cap, start engine and take for a short run. Let cool and repeat the bleeding procedure as before to be doubly sure.
    I usually get it first time.

    Alan S
    Quote Originally Posted by alan_moore
    Mr V sorry about the slow reply. I replaced the heater matrix while I had the car, and it normally ran at just on or under 80 degrees. I had fitted the cooler automatic thermostat. I think 82 instead of 89 degrees.

    From what I remember bleeding was only from the top right of the radiator (facing it) and on the thermostat housing and maybe on one of the hoses.
    Quote Originally Posted by Alan S
    Whoops; there I go again, describing how to bleed a 16V engine. Alan is correct I think in that there is only one bleeder near the top of the radiator on the 8 valve versions and take a peak as in some of the BXs I think there's another that looks like either a black plastic screw or valve cap near the thermostat; that seems to be one that is on some models but not others for some strange reason.

    Alan S
    Guys,

    I thought my bleeding was ok but i can still hear some 'fizzing' when the engine has just been run at the LH (passenger) side of the car. So, i'd just like to clarify the process so i'm really clear. Please adjust anything thats wrong so i can get it right.

    My coolant is already in the car. Do I need to drain it to bleed it again? From what i gather i dont. So here we go.

    1. (Motor cold!?) Take radiator cap and fit a 'filler bottle' (acting like a funnel but air tight?)
    2. Fill this up & make sure the heater control is on the 'hot' position.
    3. Start at the bottom bleed screw (in my case i only have 2, as mentioned above?? - one in the thermostat & one right near the top hose.) Undo do it (thermostat one in my case being lowest i believe) and wait until what? I can see coolant?
    4. After that ones done i move to the next one (radiator top) and undo it. How do i see in this one? And i thought it was off now but i can't remember which way is 'off' Is off with the rectangular grip on the screw parallel (to the front of the car) or should it perpendicular??? I feel stupid for having to ask but i honestly don't know.
    5. After i've done all this the coolant level should be ok and i can refit the radiator cap and go for a drive to test it out?
    6. Then repeat, just to be doubly sure.

    Thanks in advance for advice/help.

    PS I'm going to need some info on the RH radiator tank soon - but not yet!

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    1998 D8 Blue Peugoet 406 Coupe
    1998 D8 Gold Peugeot 406 ST - Sold!
    1994 S2 Red Peugeot 405 Sri - Croaked

  2. #2
    farmerdave
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    Quote Originally Posted by MrV
    Sorry for digging up this old thread, but i'm still a bit muddled.



    Guys,

    I thought my bleeding was ok but i can still hear some 'fizzing' when the engine has just been run at the LH (passenger) side of the car. So, i'd just like to clarify the process so i'm really clear. Please adjust anything thats wrong so i can get it right.

    My coolant is already in the car. Do I need to drain it to bleed it again? From what i gather i dont. So here we go.

    1. (Motor cold!?) Take radiator cap and fit a 'filler bottle' (acting like a funnel but air tight?)
    2. Fill this up & make sure the heater control is on the 'hot' position.
    3. Start at the bottom bleed screw (in my case i only have 2, as mentioned above?? - one in the thermostat & one right near the top hose.) Undo do it (thermostat one in my case being lowest i believe) and wait until what? I can see coolant?
    4. After that ones done i move to the next one (radiator top) and undo it. How do i see in this one? And i thought it was off now but i can't remember which way is 'off' Is off with the rectangular grip on the screw parallel (to the front of the car) or should it perpendicular??? I feel stupid for having to ask but i honestly don't know.
    5. After i've done all this the coolant level should be ok and i can refit the radiator cap and go for a drive to test it out?
    6. Then repeat, just to be doubly sure.

    Thanks in advance for advice/help.

    PS I'm going to need some info on the RH radiator tank soon - but not yet!
    The one on the top of the radiator should visibly pop up when it is open. you need to bleed it and then start the engine (with the "filler bottle" in place) and run the engine until the thermostat opens and the fans kick in.Turn engine off and rebleed at bleed screws. repeat.
    The heater setting doesn't matter on the 2.0 as it is connected all the time, ot sure on the earlier cars.
    Farmerdave

  3. #3
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    Instead of using a filler bottle, i'd just jack up the front right of the car. that way the radiator cap will be the high point in the system. Undo all your bleed screws, fill up the radiator to the brim, wait for clear, non bubbly coolant to come out of them, making sure to keep the radiator topped up to brim as required. shut off the lowest one first, then the next highest and so on.
    1984 505 STI

  4. #4
    MrV
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    Farmerdave,

    Just came in from playing around with the top bleed screw on the top of the radiator. It only seems to move 1/4 of a turn is that right? i can't get it to move any more... so how do i see when the coolant is running properly past that point?
    1998 D8 Blue Peugoet 406 Coupe
    1998 D8 Gold Peugeot 406 ST - Sold!
    1994 S2 Red Peugeot 405 Sri - Croaked

  5. #5
    farmerdave
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    Quote Originally Posted by MrV
    Farmerdave,

    Just came in from playing around with the top bleed screw on the top of the radiator. It only seems to move 1/4 of a turn is that right? i can't get it to move any more... so how do i see when the coolant is running properly past that point?
    It should move about 1/4 turn while flush and then pop up as you continue to turn - you may need to gently persuade it with a pair of pliers.
    A length of PVC pipe (40mm dia from memory, about 500mm long) in the radiator neck sealed with a couple of turns of teflon pipe tape will make a filler bottle- saves hours of frustration.

    Farmerdave

  6. #6
    MrV
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    thanks will try to 'persuade' it with some pliers... hope i dont break anything!

    i wont get to it till thursday now (wont use the car anyways) so i'll report back with my results... hopefully positive! i think i'm armed with all the info i need

    1998 D8 Blue Peugoet 406 Coupe
    1998 D8 Gold Peugeot 406 ST - Sold!
    1994 S2 Red Peugeot 405 Sri - Croaked

  7. #7
    MrV
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    success! (at least as far as i can see)

    i got a 20 mm pvc pipe from bunnings and it fits quite snugly (with a bit of help)....

    shoved it in, filled it up. then used a shifter (didn't have pliers with me) to turn the first bleed screw. eventually came up no worries. no air escaping, just lots of coolant, quickly close that one. move up to the one on the thermostat, same deal.

    start 'er up, check for leaks. none - great! easy peasy, once you know what to do

    now i have a new dilemna (uh oh )

    the leak that i freaked out about some time ago turned out to be coming from the LH (thats passenger side) radiator tank. its quite small so its not urgent. i'll have to do it in my holidays in a few weeks time. i was just wondering if there are any tips/tricks in getting the radiator out and/or getting the tanks off to replace them??

    i think it would be straight foward, would just like to know about things to watch for .

    thanks!
    1998 D8 Blue Peugoet 406 Coupe
    1998 D8 Gold Peugeot 406 ST - Sold!
    1994 S2 Red Peugeot 405 Sri - Croaked

  8. #8
    farmerdave
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    Quote Originally Posted by MrV
    success! (at least as far as i can see)

    i got a 20 mm pvc pipe from bunnings and it fits quite snugly (with a bit of help)....

    shoved it in, filled it up. then used a shifter (didn't have pliers with me) to turn the first bleed screw. eventually came up no worries. no air escaping, just lots of coolant, quickly close that one. move up to the one on the thermostat, same deal.

    start 'er up, check for leaks. none - great! easy peasy, once you know what to do

    now i have a new dilemna (uh oh )

    the leak that i freaked out about some time ago turned out to be coming from the LH (thats passenger side) radiator tank. its quite small so its not urgent. i'll have to do it in my holidays in a few weeks time. i was just wondering if there are any tips/tricks in getting the radiator out and/or getting the tanks off to replace them??

    i think it would be straight foward, would just like to know about things to watch for .

    thanks!
    a straightfoward job on a 405?
    The main problem with getting the radiator out is the connection on the driver's side, it helps to remove the plastic panel from the wheel well on that side for better access. Be very careful with the connectors if your car has the twist-lock connections.
    Radiators- bars leaks is worth a go but once only. Lots of 405s around here have Danish? "Nissens" replacement radiators in them as the Valeo ones are apparently not really designed to be repaired. Nissens also make a heater core which is supposed to be miles better than the Valeo one.

    Farmerdave

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