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Thread: Coolant

  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! MR206's Avatar
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    Coolant

    im not sure wat type of coolant i should use in my 206? any one got ideas if u can use anything or there is a special peugeot one

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  2. #2
    Gone Fishin' Ray Bell's Avatar
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    I think the Nulon longlife one is probably a good product.

  3. #3
    Simon's Avatar
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    Check with your dealer. I would imagine the car is still under warranty? Using an incompatble coolant can cause it to turn into jelly blocking the radiator and causing overheating, damage etc that wouldn't be covered by the warranty. If it is losing coolant get it checked out as there could be a problem, with modern sealed systems the coolant shouldn't require topping up, but only replacement at the required intervals.

    Simon
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  4. #4
    Sense Pug307's Avatar
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    It's a bit early to worry about coolant, eh?

    Cheers,

    Justin

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  5. #5
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Penrite make a product called 'longlife inhibitor plus' that is very good and non glycol based it has no anti freeze protection, but has serveral other advantages:
    1. Doesn't cause clogging of radiator like glycol products.
    2. Doesn't become corrosive like glycol products, when under strength.
    3. Has a better cooling co-efficeint than water or glycol products. wink
    4. Gives faster warm up and cooldown times.
    5. I have noticed cooler running temps on hot days.
    Why people clown persist with glycol products I don't know

    <small>[ 26 July 2002, 04:13 PM: Message edited by: rick_b ]</small>
    Quality is remembered long after the price is forgotten!

  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger! MR206's Avatar
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    i checked wif my dealer and there actually a special one made for da car. said to be at $20 for 5 Litres
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  7. #7
    Simon's Avatar
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    MR206:
    i checked wif my dealer and there actually a special one made for da car. said to be at $20 for 5 Litres
    At that price it isn't really worth stuffing around with anything else.
    1963 Renault R4 Van
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  8. #8
    1000+ Posts BogMaster's Avatar
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    Why people persist with glycol products I don't know

    minus seven reasons here this winter buddy...besides which Glycol is excellent for sweetening up the old home brew. a_drink
    Woo Hoo Honi ko'u 'elemu (Hawaiian)

  9. #9
    Gone Fishin' Ray Bell's Avatar
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    The Nulon long life one doesn't contain glycol...

  10. #10
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    This is serious!!! Don't mess with coolants.

    Peugeot have an accredited coolant with a Peugeot container and why anyone would think of using anything else is beyond me!!!

    We had a 306 heater radiator replaced twice for reasons never quite sorted out but I have my suspicions......

    The cost of replacing what might corrode, let alone the inconvenience of it failing when it is most awkward, far, far outweighs any consideration of playing with different coolants.

    That's my two bobs' worth.

    JohnW
    JohnW

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  11. #11
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Sorry glycol does have a purpose at temp consantly below 0. dead
    It is also good to leave a bowl out if the neighbors cat has been on your duco. cheers!
    Quality is remembered long after the price is forgotten!

  12. #12
    con
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    Here beginneth Lesson 1 in Marketing.
    ------------------------------------

    Coolants (like similar grade oils) are mostly all the same. In the case of coolant, last time I checked (admittedly many years ago now) there was only one supplier - ICL in Botany; Probably, now there are many more imports, however the principle remains the same. Provided you purchase a known brand there is little between them except the price you are willing to pay (Peugeot does not make it's own - it's rebadged).
    How can you tell when to replace the coolant? Check it's pH value (or replace it every two/three years as per manufacturers's instructions). The consequenses of not replacing the depleted coolant (other than the obvious, cracked engine/radiator if temp falls below freezing) is corrosion and erosion of the alloy parts, such as water pump/head and erosion: The corrosion is due to electolytic action and the erosion is due to cavitation. (For brevity, I have glossed over the other functions of coolant such as lubrication and assisting in heat transfer).
    Just to confirm that what I have said is correct, check your service book schedules and you will find that Peugeot recommends to "check" the pH value at 20,000kms (and not to indiscriminantly/needlessly replace it). Most dealers will replace it anyway (for extra revenue) claiming, quite incorrectly, that it's "preventative maintenance" (prevent what?dealers' becoming destitute?).

    Bleeding the system correctly, after replacement, to prevent overheating due to cavitation is likewise important.


    con...

  13. #13
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Con,

    You may be right but I don't know quite enough to be sure. There have been stories for years about not mixing coolants - dubious to me but since I don't really know the chemistry I haven't risked it.

    Peugeot's is bound to be rebadged, I agree but you'll have precious little chance of a claim if you've used something else.

    The main practical corrosion issues I suspect are:

    1. Heater radiator (a pig to replace!!! and made of thin aluminium)

    2. The block! Several 205s in Perth have needed new blocks, corroding on the "down" side of the block at the base of the water jacket. Sludged up I guess.

    Does anyone have a GOOD technical article on this important issue?

    JohnW
    JohnW

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  14. #14
    Fellow Frogger!
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    I was serious about Penrite coolant had a very good write up in a trade publication when it was released a few years ago. Anti-corrosion far superior to glycol products. I would guess at least 90% of people in Oz have no requirement for antifreeze. Unless you live in the snowfields or at temps well below 0 i.e. -4 -5 and leave your car parked outside. There is no sound technical reason to run glycol based coolants. Good reasons not to include:
    1. Glycol produces a slime that builds up on internal surfaces and slows heat
    transfer. disappro
    2. If this slime builds up enough it can cause higher running temps on hot days. It can only effectively be removed from internals of radiator by removal of radiator end tanks and rodding of the radiator core.
    3. If these coolants are run under strength they are more corrosive than most tap water.
    4. The stuff is poison and environmentally unsound. dead
    So flush out those radiators and engine blocks and start using a superior non-glycol product. whip
    Check out their website <a href="http://www.penrite.com.au" target="_blank">www.penrite.com.au</a> and go to products page on coolants they also have spec sheets.

    <small>[ 31 July 2002, 10:53 PM: Message edited by: rick_b ]</small>
    Quality is remembered long after the price is forgotten!

  15. #15
    Moderator Alan S's Avatar
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    I think something a lot of people overlook, particularly if using a concentrate or "topping up" is as Con mentioned, the ph of the water.
    Anyone who has ever kept tropical fish will know that if you test tap water, besides all the chlorine, fluoride, aluminium derivatives as well as traces of copper and a million other chemicala and pollutants as it passes through the pipes, that it always shows up with an acidic reading.
    By contrast, tank water will always show alkaline particularly if coming from a concrete tank.
    With all modern engines containing a variety of metals, alloy, brass, copper, stainless etc, the potential for a reaction and hence electrolysis is enormous. I have heard it said by those supposedly in the know, that the most important ingrediant in any coolant is demineralised water for this very reason. Sounds logical as I know from experience the problems we used to get in fridges & washing machines from this very cause.
    Anyone else been told this?

    Alan S
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  16. #16
    Fellow Frogger! ipb205's Avatar
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    "Why people clown persist with glycol products I don't know [/QB][/QUOTE]"

    Because some of us wake us in -7.5 like 2 weeks ago and start our engines - it's the only thing that'll stop water freezing.

    That said I use Tectaloy 90+ ready made and never add water to it.

    ipb205.

  17. #17
    Fellow Frogger! sfrawley's Avatar
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    I've had a 1981 504 diesel since new. For the first 10 years of its life I used rain water mixed with Castrol Inhibitor. When I moved house rain water wasn't available so I changed to BP Pre-mixed Coolant (on the advice of John at Jacques Thoridnet, Adelaide). BP Pre-mixed is hard to find, even at BP servos, so I now use demineralised water and Castrol Inhibitor (NO WAY would I use tap water!!). The head came off about 4 years ago for corrosion near one of the exhaust valves, but the radiator and heater core are original so I must have been doing something right.
    Stephen
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  18. #18
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    Can anyone advise on the correct procedure for bleeding the cooling system after replacing the coolant?

  19. #19
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    There's a long history of very good results with BP coolant with Renaults, providing it is changed when it should be.

    I've used it with no sign of corrosion developing, and also Castrol inhibitor mixed with distilled or demineralised water (especially in Adelaide). When we lived in Adelaide I used rainwater in my Renault and had no great trouble.

    Now I use BP coolant exclusively and it works very well. No corrosion whatever. My 1964 Renault 8 has original radiator and heater radiator and no head corrosion.

    Speaks for itself.

    JohnW
    JohnW

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  20. #20
    Fellow Frogger!
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    When using coolants that are not 'pre-mix' I use 'Rainfarm' drinking water in the radiator it is well priced and available in most supermarkets in 10 litre containers. wink It also has very low mineral counts!
    Quality is remembered long after the price is forgotten!

  21. #21
    pur-john, not pew-john! peujohn's Avatar
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    Arthur:
    Can anyone advise on the correct procedure for bleeding the cooling system after replacing the coolant?
    It's a job for someone who knows what they are doing. A Peugeot mechanic I trust spent about half an hour bleeding the system on my Mi16 after a coolant replacement. Peugeot make a sort of "upside down plastic bottle" which screws onto the radiator cap and has a twist valve in the "top" to control flow of water/coolant into the radiator, it's pretty well vital to have one of these.

    I wouldn't want to try to explain how to do the job, but my mechanic took the coolant temp up to 88 degrees (where the fan kicks in) three times as part of the process. He also spent time whacking the radiator with the palm of his hand, and also fiddled with the 3 bleed screws a fair bit. After doing this job he said to me "I'd hate to be trying to do this if I didn't know what I was doing." I believe him! Leave it to the experts.

    The same guy strictly only uses the genuine Peugeot coolant. He told me that the heator cores are made of not much more than aluminium foil and in his experience the Peugeot coolant is the only stuff to use.

    John
    John W

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