Cooling System Help (205 GTI '87)
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  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! Justin B's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Lugarno, Sydney

    Cooling System Help (205 GTI '87)


    So.. with all the coolant questions flying about, I wanted clarify some points.

    From the infromation, it seems that the best option is

    1. Deminerialised water
    2. Glycol Concentrate (brand?)
    3. Redline Water Wetter (I've seen this used in Grp A/N 4WD Turbo rally cars.. I now swear by it...)

    The questions are

    1. What Glycol brand / type / genetic make up is the best?
    2. What additive do people recomend to use when attempting to flush the system?

    As some are already aware.. I've got an over heating problem. I've had a radiator flushed (off car) but now I'm starting to think that the entire system might need a flush. My logic for this is that my system has only had water running in it for the last 5-7 days, and already the water looks rusty with particles...


    Any help, information ANYTHING to sort out the over heating before summer hits us would be appreciated. Soon as I have the overheating problem solved, A/Con is next.. and I MUST HAVE THAT WORKING!!!!

    Peugeot 205 GTi '87

    P.s I can't find the bloody bleed screws that the hanyes manual talks about!!!!
    Pugsley The 1987 205 GTi Peugeot

  2. #2
    Moderator Alan S's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Queensland, Australia
    If you have air in the system, which if the engine has bleed screws & you haven't bled the system particularly after you say the radiator was out of the car, then you will always have cooling problems; this type of system just does not work unless bled, so I'd suggest really go looking for them.
    As far as a flusher goes, that stuff makes me nervous even though I've used it myself in the past, and with both flushing and bleeding, be sure the heater is set in the hottest setting before you start. The latest trick I've heard from overseas for a safe flusher (one with less potential to rot holes in the block than others) cry is to empty the system, pour a bottle of vinegar into the system & top up with water. They claim over there that it will 'decalcify' the entire cooling system if left in there for a couple of weeks & then flushed out.
    The bleed screws if the same as a BX 1.9 should be a large brass screw at the RHS of the header tank and up & to the left of the thermostat housing there's a small bypass hose connected to a fitting. Teeing off that fitting you'll see what appears to be a brass "cheesehaed" screw haed with an allen key fitting that would accomodate an approx 4mm allen key. That is the other. Fill the radiator to the brim, open the bleed screw on the head until just straight coolant comes out & then shut off. Check the screw at the header tank after that whilst keeping the fluid level well up in the header tank.
    Coolant brands? Much of a muchness I feel. I used a brand called "Synforce" which is a local blend but in the past we've used all kinds including Repco brand. It comes as a concentrate or as a premix. I used a 95% concentrate mixed 50/50 with deminerliased water.
    If purchased as a pre-mix it comes as an "A" or "B" formula the basic difference being the % of Glycol concentrate to water. Most owners handbooks give a recommended % for each model. I went a bit overkill due to me having a slight weep in an awkward spot which means I have to top up occasionally.

    Hope that sorts it out for you.

    Alan S cheers!
    If it ain't broke, use a 12" shifter.....that usually does the trick!!

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