More than just timing belt change...
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  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
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    More than just timing belt change...

    Well as a continuation to the following thread:

    My New mi16
    <a href="http://www.aussiefrogs.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=000619" target="_blank">http://www.aussiefrogs.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=000619</a>

    I got it checked in at AP Automotive Services where Paul Vassalo is servicing on Monday morning. I found it most convenient, bus takes me directly to work.

    I called him on Friday and we talked for 10 minutes discussing the car and what most probably needed to be done with the timing belt, which were water pump, tensioner sth or another and some harmonic oscillator thingy needed to be checked.

    Went in Monday morning, had a long discussion and i told him about the idle speed, and also the speedo flickering under 60km and a few other things. We agreed that because it has done 200ks a good inspection is needed on top of the belt. At this moment the estimated work wouldve been in the vicinity of $700.

    Got a call during the day after inspection, and rolled of a list of urgent, non urgent and very minor problems. very thorough. Well after rolling off the urgent things to do (which i cannot remember too much of, except the engine mount) the little bits and pieces started to add up! So i said do them and he did give me alternatives to save money, eg speedo flickering is a bit of a job and can save a bit of money till next time, and it is not urgent.

    I got another call last night mentioning the job is completed and that it is a bit expensive and i asked how much and he said $1500.. oh oh. Anyway he also said he found the problem with the idle and that it was to do with a diapragm in the manifold on the passenger side (i might be quoting him wrong), it was leaking air.

    To my surprise, he explained this could be the reason for the lack of oomph in the lower revs until the vacuum hits the drivers side. An i thought the car was in top condition and was driving well. And to top it off he called me today, after i said yes fix this problem, saying he finished and now it drives like an mi16 should drive.

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    Well, as you can imagine, i cant wait till i drive it tonight (but spewing about the cost of it all of $1615 but they needed to be done). Oh well, a good price on the car now turns out to be a fair price.

    I will update as to the difference in power, and also the list Paul made on the car.

    Cheers,
    Pug Warrior
    '93 405 Mi16 Series2 Sold!

  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger! Mi16 Man's Avatar
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    Jun 2001
    Location
    Canberra, ACT
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    711
    Aaaahhhhh yes,

    The 'old' vacuum diagphram. This feeds the dual intake manifold to maximise torque at lower revs and power at higher revs. This is only a $65 or so part and would take no longer than 20mins to fit. Thanks to Phasis and the gang here on the forum, it was made easy and a job that I could diagnose myself.

    Did your "Check Engine Light" stay on for a while (2 secs) after start up??? This was my tell tale warning and it was diagnosed by a ECU check.

    BTW, this part is made in MONACO of all places - God their standards are slipping............

    Please let us know exactly what was needed as they are usually common faults with the car thus mine could be the same. Am thinking that my engine mounts are up to sh*t as on the freeway, with the throttle barely on, the engine sometimes 'rocks' as it has no full load but it is not backed off either. You have to lift you foot off the pedal and then re-apply to get some load again......very strange!

    You will LOVE the difference in the car. It took me about 1000kms or so to get it fixed (lack of money + diagnosis) so when it was all better, I gave the car a full tank of OPTIMAX + NULON Pro-Strength. Like those STUPID Maggi adds, the Mi16 absolutely "loves it"!!!!!

    ENJOY!~!~!~!
    Stu G. dance
    "Take a Lion through a corner - FAST"

    Current Fleet;
    2010 308 XSE HDi SW [Vapour Grey]
    2010 VW GOLF GTI [Carbon Steel Grey]

    In the Family;
    2012 508 Allure HDi [Thorium Grey]
    2008 207 HDi XT [Bianca White]

    Past "Frogs"
    2008 308 XSE HDi SW / 2006 307 XSE HDi Touring / 2001 306 XSi / 2005 206 GTi180 / 2005 407 HDi / 2003 206 XT / 1993 SII 405 Mi16 / 1990 205 GTi / 2x 1985 505 GTi S1 / 1976 504 / 1982 20 TS / 1997 306 XR / 1992 205 Si

  3. #3
    1000+ Posts Pug_405_Mi16's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
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    Hobart
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    1,496
    I should also get my Mi16 back today dance

    After a nearly 2 week visit to Dry Dock

    It's had a clutch, crank shaft seal, power steering boot, front sway bar bushes....plus other stuff I cant remember!

    Mine also comes back at a price not quite as high as yours but still around 1200 disappro

    Still you have to do what you have to do to keep a great car on the road ! I think the fun I have driving it makes up for the bills cheers!

    Anyhow....just thought I'd join the club

    Cheers

    Ben mallet
    1989 Peugeot 405 Mi16
    1990 Peugeot 505 GTD Turbo Wagon
    2000 Peugeot 306 XSI
    1973 Peugeot 504 GL





  4. #4
    2000+ Brad's Avatar
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    Jun 2001
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    Brisbane
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    2,404
    My S16 is back into the shop to get the CV's redone. After the remanu there is still a knocking under load, however its all covered under warranty so I'm only put out by not having the car.

    Also, I got the 28 point Pedders safety check done. They said it was generally in good nick, however a few problems. The steering rack has some play which should necessitate a rebuild (another warranty item) and a worn castor bush.

    So hopefully I can get most of that major stuff done for zip and while the LH CV is out, replace the lower engine mount as I have already replaced the top 2.
    B to the R to the A from the D
    1994 MX5 Clubman...are you sure it's not French?

  5. #5
    Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Sydney
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    58
    Well, I got my car back on wednesday, but i have waited till now to reply, because i went on a trip to the blue mountains today.

    And boy am i grinning like a fool head_ban

    Stu and Bem you guys are so right, the difference after the service to before the service is astounding, and all from a $100 Inlet manifold control vacuum module!!!

    Before I was able to feel the car really hit after 4000rpm, much like a turbo boost lag hitting, and i could actually count the time before it hit, but now, it just flies to 4000rpm and the change to the extra boost is now hardly noticeable. I can now pip my friends v6 magna, while before he would be me because of the slow start.

    I tested the car to 175km on the m4 racing a saab which was abit crazy considering cops about but i had to get it out of my system, and only minimal vibrations could be felt after 160km. Cruising at 120km the ECU diagnostics light does not light up now while it did before (BTW isnt it suppose to light up for 2 secs at startup? i havent checked if it does that now...)

    But the extra power down low was very enjoyable to say the least. Getting to 90km from 60km on 4th gear is now all too easy, and i have to watch out, dont wanna lose my license. Now i have to try some of those droves you guys have been recommending...

    Its all too much fun wink :p tongue approve head_ban

    <small>[ 20 July 2002, 11:22 PM: Message edited by: Pug Warrior ]</small>
    '93 405 Mi16 Series2 Sold!

  6. #6
    Member
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    Jul 2002
    Location
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    ok, now for the bad news...

    the things Paul found on his inspection of the car

    Speedometer flickers new cable required
    Engine Oil dipstick needs replacing
    Clutch Assembly Worn, limited life left
    Clock/Ambient Gauge Lamps not working
    A/C & Recycle Buttons broken
    Fresh Air/Recycle Reduction Motor needs replacing (making the noise behind the glove box)
    Electric Door Mirrors not working
    N/S/R Taillamp Connection Problem
    O/S/F Blinker Lense Cracked
    Boot central locking not working
    P.C.V. system blocked
    Both rear door central locks Not Working intermittent
    Drivers door Window not working on Auto
    O/S/R door upper moulding
    Front Windscreen moulding
    Pollen filter needs replacing
    Front Brake pads 50%
    Rear brake pads 95%
    Gear change ball crank worn
    Front muffler join to rear cat converter loose
    Worn flanges + earth strap broken
    Brake fluid will need changing
    Spark plugs, Air filter, Fuel Filter ??? not checked, next service to be checked

    Parts replaced:
    1 Camshaft Timing Belt $98
    2 Camshaft Timing Belt Tensioner Pulley $212
    1 Waterpump $138
    2 Outer C.V joint boot kits $119
    1 O/S Diff output shaft seal $21
    1 N/S Diff output shaft seal $18
    1.5 L Gearbox/transaxle fluid $15
    1 lower engine mount $42
    1 lower camshaft timing belt cover $26
    1 camshaft cover gasket $48
    4 spark plug tube gasket seals $36
    3 cam cover bolt seals $14
    3 litres coolant $25
    sealant, loctite & nickel auto size $2
    engine degrease $1
    3 cable ties $1
    1 Inlet manifold control vacuum module $99

    and then add labour then GST

    quite of these parts have gone up lately apparently (eg inlet manifold control vacuum module)

    He is really good in explaining everything (i now understand how the manifold constrol system works in getting the mix of strong torque and speed and power) and is very thorough, at the end of it all, i got 2.5 pages detailing everything he worked on the car, 1.5 on the findings of the inspection that have not been worked on, and 1 page for the parts and costs. I wish all mechanics were like that.

    He showed me all the parts removed off the car and the reasons why they had to be changed, and their condition eg one of the tensioners was ready to "sieze" the movement was not smooth as it should and lucky the belt was changed b4 that could happen. I took the parts home, so i can take pictures of them when i take pictures of my car, and hopefully put it on the members page one day.

    I am glad most of the things wrong with it are just minor, and can live with it without fixing, or are easy to fix (eg some of the electrical problems can be down to just removing dirt/dust off the circuit boards or connectors)

    the only real problem is the clutch, estimated life to be 6 mths to 2 yrs depending on how i drive, i estimate 1.5 yrs hopefully, cos apparently it is not cheap to do
    this was because the clutch cable was not adjusted and over time the the cable did not have enough leeway and so the clutch was riding all the time.

    anyway like i promised that is the update, a bit of money spent, but hopefully it'll be another few years before a number of the things done need to be done again.

    Cheers
    '93 405 Mi16 Series2 Sold!

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