505 Sli Climate Control electrics
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  1. #1
    1000+ Posts Rod Hagen's Avatar
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    505 Sli Climate Control electrics

    Hello to all - heard about this forum a while back from people on the citroen ds-id yahoo list. Looks great.

    This isn't about my old DSpecial though. I have a problem with my "new" workhorse, a 1986 Peugeot 505 SLi wagon (my old wagon was recently totalled by someone who forgot to look to the right when pulling out from a side street when I was fifteen feet away - sob)

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    The "new" wagon needed a bit of TLC to bring up to speed (and a few partsfrom the old one as well), but I'm stumped by the climate control electricals. Essentially there is no power at the compressor clutch wire with the air con ostensibly "ON" and the temperature set to zero.

    Does anyone know what voltages I should be expecting where while I work back through the system? Where exactly is the climate control unit itself located? (thought I might try swapping the unit from the other vehicle, which worked fine) What relays are relevant to the climate control? What else should I check? (the protection diode has 3 volts on one side and none on the other, for example, is this normal?)

    A block or wiring diagram would be wonderful, but the Haynes manual doesn't have one showing air con for this model as far as I can work out.

    Thoughts or experience anyone?

    :p
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    Peugeot 4008 2016Peugeot 407 SV HDi estate 2008, Peugeot 407 SV Hdi Sedan 2006, (deadish), - Previously 403s, 404, 504, 505 sLI Wagons, 406 ST 1997, 307 XSE, 306 XSi, Renault 12, Citroen DSpecial

  2. #2
    1000+ Posts Rod Hagen's Avatar
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    Thought it might be useful to post an update on this one.

    The problem turned out to be a 'dry" joint in the climate control control box.

    You can find the control box up behind the glovebox (at least on RHD cars) . Its the silver box with 'Bosch" written on it and three plugs attached, just to the left of the FI computer.

    The dry joint was on one of the capacitors. You could get the thing to work by flexing the circuit board slightly, which made us suspect a dry joint,

    I had a spare control box from my old SLi , so we simply plugged that in, but it would have only taken a couple of minutes to resolder. So, if you run into a similar problem its worth checking it out before paying out $$ for a replacement control box.


    Had the thing regassed at the same time, and I'm now genuinely cool.

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    Peugeot 4008 2016Peugeot 407 SV HDi estate 2008, Peugeot 407 SV Hdi Sedan 2006, (deadish), - Previously 403s, 404, 504, 505 sLI Wagons, 406 ST 1997, 307 XSE, 306 XSi, Renault 12, Citroen DSpecial

  3. #3
    rek
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    1000+ Posts rek's Avatar
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    Rod,

    I had a similar sort of problem with my old Honda. The fuel pump relay solder joints weren't the best, and sometimes (most often when after the car had been running and the electrics were getting warm), the fuel pump sometimes wouldn't prime when you stopped and restarted the car. A common problem apparently, speaking to a few other Honda people.

    Got out the soldering iron & desoldering tool, resoldered the joints on the circuit board, and never had a problem again.
    Peter
    2008 Saab 9-3 1.9 TiD Sportcombi
    2011 Volvo C30 DRIVe 1.6D

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