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Thread: Storing cars

  1. #1
    1000+ Posts edgedweller's Avatar
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    Default Storing cars

    How ya goin mates.
    Did dun me search of the part threads thing and there aint one ta tell ya howto store yer car likeif ya not usin it for a while for instance.So i WAS GUNNA ARSK youse all whatr you know about it cos I got one to store. An Idon wanna muck id up. Is it good with oil nwater or without//? Wadda bout feul? How lon the break fluid last? Wadda youse guys reckon?

    Gundy backa Chidpinwillabah Eddies mate new member

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    Gone Fishin' Ray Bell's Avatar
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    How long, exactly?

    For a few months, not really a problem... especially if you can get someone to start it up every ten days or so, run it for a while then tuck it back in bed. Preferably use a jumper battery to help ensure the car's own battery doesn't have too hard a time starting it.

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    Default Storage 405

    Hi Ray. Me and my wife are going to Thailand for 12 months and plan to store our cars in a shed. Do you think it would be a good idea to sit them on blocks with the wheels of the ground?I was told this would prevent damage to the tyres. Any other ideas would be appreciated.
    Cheeres LuLu

  4. #4
    1000+ Posts edgedweller's Avatar
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    Default Stay on track

    Give or take my pathetic attempt at humour there remains no thread on storing a vehicle, considering that many people could be in the position to need such information.

    So how about you half a dozen guys flitting from thread to thread as it amuses you, telling each other stories of your feats etc and leaving the thread dangling, could actually stay on track and answer the questions asked and add to the stockpile of knowledge, not stories.

    Ray, you know as much about this Ti as I do, there is no oil in it, it isn't going to be started every 10 days.............................so I'll leave it with you again in the hope that I can get the information the I'm requestring.

    Rob, any response to fuel tank or proportioning valve?

    cheers ed ge

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    Gone Fishin' Ray Bell's Avatar
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    Yamba, LuLu?

    I'd definitely arrange for someone to take it around the block once every two or three weeks!

    Seaside atmosphere being allowed to settle in the engine, I don't think that's something I'd like to see over that period. Humidity would also be a problem there.

    Edgy... use the tyres on something else, put some rubbish wheels on it, lubricate whatever you can to avoid rust... maybe kero down the inlets and in the plug holes, clean it out when the time comes.

    Oh, yeah... back off the brakes?

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    Budding Architect ???? pugrambo's Avatar
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    take the plugs out and spin the engine over on the starter with fresh oil in the sump every couple of weeks

    that should keep everything lubed up in there

    i'd also run a little oil down the plug holes as well and seeing as this engine will come apart eventually this shouldn't do it too much harm

    but i wouldn't start the car
    3 x '78 604 SL

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    1 x '98 406 STDT troop carrier and i don't care if it stinks, i don't sniff it's arse Death by wank tank

    1 x '99 406SV 5spd wagon, time to burn more fuel

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    1000+ Posts Haakon's Avatar
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    all these suggestins are good, but I would say if it gets to live in a shed, just put fresh engine oil in it, make sure the coolant is good (ie not too diluted with water) and park it.

    If its outside in the weather, thats a different story. A good quality cover would be in order, and again make sure the juices are all fresh. I reckin 10 minutes driving every 6 months would be ample.
    I tried to drown my sorrows in alcohol, but the bastards learnt how to swim

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    All of the above plus:

    1. Fill the fuel tank or put some metho in it to help offset condensation.

    2. Car covers are ok short term only. Long term they promote rust becase the car sweats. A car needs fresh air circulating inside and out. Just park it in a shady but well ventilated spot.

    3. Keep the battery charged - get yourself an automatic charger that switches itself on and off as needed - otherwise they lose voltage and begin sulfate from just sitting. Cost about $44.

    There should be a thread on this subject - we had this conversation last year.

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    Good advice. My 405 is a srtd. I will not be able to have it started at all for the 12 months. The shed is good secure and dry. I will remove the battery its a good quality one so it will be interesting how it performs, if at all? after sitting for that length of time.
    Cheers LuLu

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    Budding Architect ???? pugrambo's Avatar
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    the fuel may gum up in it over that amount of time

    i don't know if there is much you can do about that though
    3 x '78 604 SL

    1 x 2018 3008

    1 x 2000 Citroen XM,

    1 x '98 306 GTi6 sadly sold

    1 x secret project

    1 x '98 406 STDT troop carrier and i don't care if it stinks, i don't sniff it's arse Death by wank tank

    1 x '99 406SV 5spd wagon, time to burn more fuel

    1 x 1994 605 SV3.0

  11. #11
    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
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    Default prop vale & fuel tank & 70 model 404 for free !!!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by edgedweller
    Give or take my pathetic attempt at humour there remains no thread on storing a vehicle, considering that many people could be in the position to need such information.

    So how about you half a dozen guys flitting from thread to thread as it amuses you, telling each other stories of your feats etc and leaving the thread dangling, could actually stay on track and answer the questions asked and add to the stockpile of knowledge, not stories.

    Ray, you know as much about this Ti as I do, there is no oil in it, it isn't going to be started every 10 days.............................so I'll leave it with you again in the hope that I can get the information the I'm requestring.

    Rob, any response to fuel tank or proportioning valve?

    cheers ed ge
    Hi edgey,

    Thanks for the enquiry - but thread is has become so diverse I've give up posting a bit and will raise things again later in their own threads.

    PLUS
    Some dude knocked on the door last night after seeing the 404 in drive with primer on the bum and offered a complete 70 model 404 plus heaps of spares for nix, gratis, nil, zero,nothing, b*gger all, free

    "unfinished project... found a wife... and children.. haven't touched it for 7 years... , sister in law bitching about her garage...have to take it to the tip etc etc

    Naturally I was a distracted and went to look at it tonight.

    The p*ss off is that it a better car than the one I currently working -less rust straighter, better interior and a very original engine bay. Although it is is like the coat of many colours in guards and front doors the shell is forest green.

    Bloody inconsiderate could have offered it to me earlier.

    It would seem that the rust repairs on the other one have been wasted.. and I will end up wrecking it...but... the end result is what counts and although the 70 model needs more paint prep it will end up a better and rarer car.


    regards Rob

    This really is my last post in this thread!!!!!

  12. #12
    1000+ Posts edgedweller's Avatar
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    You must have been living a good life of late Rob. A delicious irony, one which can give you strength as you inevidabley skin your knuckles, scrape you elbow, drop the gearbox on your foot etc...................

    Serendipity must be accepted to be enjoyed.

    Hope you've got the space.

    cheers ed ge

  13. #13
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Personally I think someone just starting it every few weeks would be MUCH worse than just leaving it sitting. If it's going to be started you need to get it upto operating temperature.

    I'd put it up on jackstands and **release the handbrake **. The [email protected] will be seized when you get back home otherwise. You could probably put a bit of oil down each plug hole, but I wouldn't be to worried.

    Oh yeah, fill the tank to the brim, it can't get rusty if there's no air space in there.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
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    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


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    Budding Architect ???? pugrambo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron
    Personally I think someone just starting it every few weeks would be MUCH worse than just leaving it sitting. If it's going to be started you need to get it upto operating temperature.



    seeya,
    Shane L.

    thats why i reckon take the plugs out and throw a little oil down there and just spin it over on the starter every so often to lubricate everything without starting it
    3 x '78 604 SL

    1 x 2018 3008

    1 x 2000 Citroen XM,

    1 x '98 306 GTi6 sadly sold

    1 x secret project

    1 x '98 406 STDT troop carrier and i don't care if it stinks, i don't sniff it's arse Death by wank tank

    1 x '99 406SV 5spd wagon, time to burn more fuel

    1 x 1994 605 SV3.0

  15. #15
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edgedweller
    How ya goin mates.
    Did dun me search of the part threads thing and there aint one ta tell ya howto store yer car likeif ya not usin it for a while for instance.So i WAS GUNNA ARSK youse all whatr you know about it cos I got one to store. An Idon wanna muck id up. Is it good with oil nwater or without//? Wadda bout feul? How lon the break fluid last? Wadda youse guys reckon?

    Gundy backa Chidpinwillabah Eddies mate new member
    Tell you what, 'cos I'm such a nice guy you can park it on my front lawn. I'll make sure it gets a good run. Infact I'll drive it to work so it can sit out in the sun on those really hot days and bake in the sun instead of my old CX

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  16. #16
    Gone Fishin' Ray Bell's Avatar
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    The car I clearly suggested starting and taking for a quick run every couple of weeks was the goer... not the one with the water in the sump.

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    Quote Originally Posted by pugrambo
    the fuel may gum up in it over that amount of time
    I've found after 6 months the fuel is still ok. After 2 years it's like turps.

    Quote Originally Posted by pugrambo
    i don't know if there is much you can do about that though
    Drain it out

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    Quote Originally Posted by LuLu
    Good advice. My 405 is a srtd. I will not be able to have it started at all for the 12 months. The shed is good secure and dry. I will remove the battery its a good quality one so it will be interesting how it performs, if at all? after sitting for that length of time.
    Cheers LuLu
    Yes the battery will be stuffed unless you keep it charged - invest in an automatic charger and just leave it switched on.

  19. #19
    Budding Architect ???? pugrambo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ray Bell
    The car I clearly suggested starting and taking for a quick run every couple of weeks was the goer... not the one with the water in the sump.

    i feel a quick run every so often would be bad for the car

    the car would need in my opinion at least a good 50km or so run

    better off to relieve any compression in the engine and spin it on the starter every so often and when returning to the car put new seals in the brakes and change fluids

    at least that way the engine should still be in the same condition it was when it was left
    3 x '78 604 SL

    1 x 2018 3008

    1 x 2000 Citroen XM,

    1 x '98 306 GTi6 sadly sold

    1 x secret project

    1 x '98 406 STDT troop carrier and i don't care if it stinks, i don't sniff it's arse Death by wank tank

    1 x '99 406SV 5spd wagon, time to burn more fuel

    1 x 1994 605 SV3.0

  20. #20
    Gone Fishin' Ray Bell's Avatar
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    Surely 5kms would be plenty?

    All that business about new seals etc, that's a lot of heartache to go to avoiding having someone drive the car once every three weeks for a year.

    The engine's not going to wear out in 150kms!

  21. #21
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    Hi Edgedweller,


    Iíve owned a few cars that have been stored for a year or two, and I also have a 1934 Ford, that is sitting around till I have the time to spend on her. I also have an old 1954 Vintage sailplane in storage.

    If you store a car and expect to drive it again with no problems, you have to start it up every few weeks. If you do want to, youíll have to do the following (some of which are already mentioned).

    Put it on blocks and Vaseline the suspension rubbers (stops sink and cracking)

    WD40 any cast iron suspension/chassis items.

    WD40 door, boot and bonnet hinges.

    WD40 under the seats, the springs donít usually rust due to the constant motion, but when they are still, they rust quickly.

    Vaseline fuel, vacuum and brake lines to stop them cracking.

    Remove brake fluid (itís very corrosive)

    Loosen the rocker cover and use a thick, low viscus machine oil and cover the insides of the engine

    Vaseline discs and callipers

    Remove as much fuel as possible (fuel dries out and turns to dust after several years)

    Remove battery and ground vehicle

    Vaseline window and door rubbers

    Wax paint. Bees wax is best as it lasts a long time and is thick enough to protect the paint.

    Cover the car with something that will breath


    Thatís all I can think of for the moment.

  22. #22
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    Default Clutch!

    Wedge the clutch open so the pressure plate doesn't stick to the flywheel!

    And think long and hard about things that would normally move around but now won't: gear linkages, etc.

    Chris

  23. #23
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blu180
    Hi Edgedweller,


    Iíve owned a few cars that have been stored for a year or two, and I also have a 1934 Ford, that is sitting around till I have the time to spend on her. I also have an old 1954 Vintage sailplane in storage.

    If you store a car and expect to drive it again with no problems, you have to start it up every few weeks. If you do want to, youíll have to do the following (some of which are already mentioned).

    Put it on blocks and Vaseline the suspension rubbers (stops sink and cracking)

    WD40 any cast iron suspension/chassis items.

    WD40 door, boot and bonnet hinges.

    WD40 under the seats, the springs donít usually rust due to the constant motion, but when they are still, they rust quickly.

    Vaseline fuel, vacuum and brake lines to stop them cracking.

    Remove brake fluid (itís very corrosive)

    Loosen the rocker cover and use a thick, low viscus machine oil and cover the insides of the engine

    Vaseline discs and callipers

    Remove as much fuel as possible (fuel dries out and turns to dust after several years)

    Remove battery and ground vehicle

    Vaseline window and door rubbers

    Wax paint. Bees wax is best as it lasts a long time and is thick enough to protect the paint.

    Cover the car with something that will breath


    Thatís all I can think of for the moment.
    Do you really remove brake fluid ?? wouldn't that be substantially worse than leaving it in there. You see if there's no brake fluid in the lines, there air. Where there air there rust (especially on lines that'll still have a fine coating of brake fluid).

    If you leave the brake fluid in there there is no air, so rust/corrosion should be dramatically reduced.

    It's only 12months. I'd just park it with it's handbrake off.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  24. #24
    Gone Fishin' Ray Bell's Avatar
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    And let the tyres go flat and perish nicely...

    Not necessary... just get the car driven every three weeks or so. No problems then.

  25. #25
    Budding Architect ???? pugrambo's Avatar
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    the 604 my mother had used to have the plugs removed and engine spun over every 4-5 weeks

    then about once every 3 months the car would get a good run, ie sydney and back (we lived in the highlands) or down the coast or used continously for a week doing 40km round trips

    that car was the best 604 in every respect but had very little use, in other words it was stored for most of it's 11 years we had the car hence the 18k it did in that time

    the only 2 things that ever perished in that time were the windscreen wipers (which had never been turned on as it never went out in the rain) and the rear gearbox seal

    so that's the stroy on how to store a car fellas
    3 x '78 604 SL

    1 x 2018 3008

    1 x 2000 Citroen XM,

    1 x '98 306 GTi6 sadly sold

    1 x secret project

    1 x '98 406 STDT troop carrier and i don't care if it stinks, i don't sniff it's arse Death by wank tank

    1 x '99 406SV 5spd wagon, time to burn more fuel

    1 x 1994 605 SV3.0

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