505 central locking stuck locked
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  1. #1
    nJm
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    Default 505 central locking stuck locked

    I've been getting a flat battery quite often in the 505 over the past couple of days. I got into the pug after work at the train station and the battery was flat as a pancake. The radio and electric windows worked but not enough juice to get the starter motor going.

    Stupidly, I leaned my elbow on the door lock and this naturally locked all the doors. Now I can't get them open. I got a jump start, drove home and climbed out the window. I disconnected the battery but the locks are still jammed. If you reach in and try to pull the lock up on the driver's door it will go up but doesn't unlock the door, and as soon as you release it is pulls itself down. The rear locks are completely stuck, I can't even lift them.

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    Any suggestions?
    Nick
    1983 Peugeot 505 GR


    "All of its cars from the 1.1 litre 205 through the ugly duckling 309 to the 2.2 litre 505 GTi had a rightness and a righteousness about them that turned every humdrum drive into a journey. Someone, I once wrote, in the bowels of Peugeot understands handling and how a chassis should feel." - Jeremy Clarkson

  2. #2
    1000+ Posts Gamma's Avatar
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    Passangers side door should open with the key and manually from the inside.

    Get a fresh Battery and see if this solves the problem.

    The rear doors may have the child locks on,(they do on the SII).
    If this is the case the door locks will resist opening from the inside.
    Otherwise the doors should unlock with or without power and the exterior door handles will open them. (ie hold up the lock with one hand and operate the exterior handle with the other).

    Good luck.
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  3. #3
    nJm
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    The child locks have never ever been used on this car. Actually, I don't think I even knew it had them.

    My problem is all the door locks appear to be jammed down. I can (using a lot of force) pull the driver's 'tab' up, but it doesn't actually unlock the door, and as soon as you let go of it it pops down again.

    After much forcing of the key I managed to unlock the front passenger's side door, but the rest are completely jammed shut.


    A friend thought that maybe the central locking controller could be faulty, and might be what is draining my battery. He said in most cars it is somewhere in the dash. Any idea where it is on a 505 and what it looks like?
    Nick
    1983 Peugeot 505 GR


    "All of its cars from the 1.1 litre 205 through the ugly duckling 309 to the 2.2 litre 505 GTi had a rightness and a righteousness about them that turned every humdrum drive into a journey. Someone, I once wrote, in the bowels of Peugeot understands handling and how a chassis should feel." - Jeremy Clarkson

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    Quote Originally Posted by nJm
    I've been getting a flat battery quite often in the 505 over the past couple of days. I got into the pug after work at the train station and the battery was flat as a pancake. The radio and electric windows worked but not enough juice to get the starter motor going.

    Stupidly, I leaned my elbow on the door lock and this naturally locked all the doors. Now I can't get them open. I got a jump start, drove home and climbed out the window. I disconnected the battery but the locks are still jammed. If you reach in and try to pull the lock up on the driver's door it will go up but doesn't unlock the door, and as soon as you release it is pulls itself down. The rear locks are completely stuck, I can't even lift them.

    Any suggestions?
    Check the alternator before getting a new battery, check that it is actually charging the battery properly, otherwise you're just going to flatten a new battery if you get one.

    That said though if the battery has been run dead then its probably stuffed anyway (dead cell it happened to me after i left my lights on, and the battery went flat)

    Even if the central locking has been used, then the key should be able to open one of the front doors like Gamma said.
    Last edited by orestes; 14th January 2005 at 01:42 PM.

  5. #5
    Fellow Frogger! MR604's Avatar
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    The main actuator in the drivers door would be playing up/stuffed.

    Try to get the door trim off and you can then disconnect the c/locking.

    Go to supercheap or your favourite auto shop and buy a universal c/locking kit and install it. It's a straight forward job and the actuators bolt straight in.

    I've had 2 give up in the wifes car, so last time I put a universal kit in. From memory I think geniune item is around $300

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    Well my '82 505 GR has the same symptoms.
    Can also access with a key through the passenger door.
    However the driver's door button resists all attempts to be raised.
    The key on this side has no effect.
    A fully charged battery makes no difference.
    So its time to get off that internal door trim or continue to side in and out via the passenger door.

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    Peter. 504 and 505s

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    Fellow Frogger! MR604's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PUG_504_505
    So its time to get off that internal door trim or continue to side in and out via the passenger door.
    Or you could leave the window down and climb in and out

    Then you'd have to call the car 'General Lee'

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    Fellow Frogger! Ralph's Avatar
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    Nick,

    Have a look at this post:

    http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19304

    A similar thread came up on the same subject. There's a couple of photos to show what the box in question looks like. You'll have to remove the plastic around the blinker/wiper stalks and also the plastic with the instrument illumination rheostat and pneumatic headlight adjusters to get to it. I'm in the process of doing a schematic of the pcb contained inside the box and will post it on AF when done.

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  9. #9
    nJm
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    I've taken off that part of the dash a few times before so that won't be a problem. At the moment I'm struggling with stripped screws that hold the 'arm rest' on the driver's door.

    Will get back to it tomorrow I guess.

    I was wondering, could I rip out all the old stuff but leave the wiring in for an aftermarket kit that has wireless remote?
    Nick
    1983 Peugeot 505 GR


    "All of its cars from the 1.1 litre 205 through the ugly duckling 309 to the 2.2 litre 505 GTi had a rightness and a righteousness about them that turned every humdrum drive into a journey. Someone, I once wrote, in the bowels of Peugeot understands handling and how a chassis should feel." - Jeremy Clarkson

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    Budding Architect ???? pugrambo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nJm

    I was wondering, could I rip out all the old stuff but leave the wiring in for an aftermarket kit that has wireless remote?

    maybe, maybe not

    the wiring is not hard to run through with the aftermarket kits

    where you have the rubber boots between the doors and the pillars that carry the wires just spray some silicone spray in them and the wires for the aftermarket kit just slide straight through

    a lot of the aftermarket kits can be connected up to a remote or even come with a remote

    once you get all the door trims off and you have the kit sitting out in front of you they are pretty simple
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  11. #11
    Fellow Frogger! MR604's Avatar
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    I just connected the new actuators to the existing wiring. It took a bit of time chasing what wire was what, but it worked okay. Dont forget that the lock for the fuel flap operates with the c/locking.


    I believe that you can wire a remote into the existing box

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  12. #12
    nJm
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    I got the door trim off and it was the driver's door''s actuator causing the problems. Generous amounts of WD40 got it going again, although as I don't want to get stuck with this again I deactivated the c/locking. I think I'll buy a new kit, as the rear doors have always been a bit dodgy on this car (sometimes they lock with the rest, sometimes they don't etc).
    Nick
    1983 Peugeot 505 GR


    "All of its cars from the 1.1 litre 205 through the ugly duckling 309 to the 2.2 litre 505 GTi had a rightness and a righteousness about them that turned every humdrum drive into a journey. Someone, I once wrote, in the bowels of Peugeot understands handling and how a chassis should feel." - Jeremy Clarkson

  13. #13
    1000+ Posts silverexec's Avatar
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    Hey Nick, something I've been told recently (as I was guilty of the same thing) is that WD40 isn't really the best thing to use for lubing things as its main purpose is for water displacement (hence the WD...).

    Apparently over time it starts to attract dirt and the original problem appears again. Something like a contact cleaner or CRC-26 is better as it doesn't leave an oily residue behind to attract dirt.

    My rear door locks are doing the same thing - sometimes they work with the other doors and sometimes they don't. I haven't bothered to pull the door trim off to check them out yet but they're probably a lubrication issue. I hope you get yours working again without too much hassle...

    Richard
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    Budding Architect ???? pugrambo's Avatar
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    WD-40 should never be used for a lubricant anywhere as it doesn't lubricate

    for electrical items CRC 2.26

    for light items like door catches use silicon spray

    for locks use graphite powder

    for limited movement items use a little grease

    WD-40 is only good for dispersing water but CRC 2.26 will do exactly the same thing and it will lubricate electrical items as well like motors
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    1000+ Posts Pug_405_Mi16's Avatar
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    Hi Nick,

    I just noticed this thread and thought I would throw a couple of comments in!

    Having owned several 505's I have seen and had the central locking problems you describe. I have to say in all honesty why on earth would you pull the factory system out and put one of those horrible super cheap after market kits in!

    I have found with the rear doors it is really just a matter of lubricating the whole lock mech, the central locking acuator still does it's job just fine on the back doors but does not have enough go to move the locks as they are stiff with age and lack of lubrication, for these locks I use mainly a product called *Dry Glide* which is a CRC thing with teflon in it, great for locks as well, does not leave the crap of graphite behind! I have also found the Lanolin spray to be very good on these locks as well. I have had 99% luck fixing rear doors with lubrication.

    So far as the drivers door, go to a wrecker and grab one, from reading here there seem to be plenty of STI's and what not for wrecking in Pick A Parts in Melbourne, I am sure they wont charge you more then a few $$ for one?

    If all else fails I have a couple of known good ones here, and for a small fee would send you one!

    Please Nick, the system in the 505 is a good one, and as I am sure *and know* you are aware the car is now 22 years old, spend a little time and some TLC on things like locks which have most likely never been touched and you may well be suprised!

    Cheers

    Ben
    1989 Peugeot 405 Mi16
    1990 Peugeot 505 GTD Turbo Wagon
    2000 Peugeot 306 XSI
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  16. #16
    mlb
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pug_405_Mi16
    Please Nick, the system in the 505 is a good one, and as I am sure *and know* you are aware the car is now 22 years old, spend a little time and some TLC on things like locks which have most likely never been touched and you may well be suprised!
    Ben's got a point there. I have just gone around all the doors on my recently purchases 505, stripped them down, freed up the stiff handles and linkages and sprayed them all with silicone spray. Bringing it all up to as new condition. It's lasted 22 years now, and I do not see how it can't last another 22 with proper care. And you should still ba able to get parts in a few years if it dies instead of having to replace the whole system again.

    That's my anyway

    Matt
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    1000+ Posts cruiserman's Avatar
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    I have installed 2 of the shi!!y cheap style kits in my landcruiser and both have over time failed. I plan to use the actuators out of a couple of spare 505's or the 405 in the cruiser. I guess that means that IMHO what Ben has said is the same as I have found in practice the 505 system is very good and robust.
    Neil
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    Budding Architect ???? pugrambo's Avatar
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    if you can't get hold of any pug ones i have heard that the units from the fords can be adapted to fit as well

    the ford ones only last about 10 years though so you need to find late models in the wreckers yards
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