Rough Idling
  • Register
  • Help
Results 1 to 14 of 14

Thread: Rough Idling

  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    S.E Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    262

    Rough Idling

    Hi peoples.

    Advertisement


    What causes a 505 GTi to idle rough? The car generally runs well, but at idle it is noisy and rough. I also have had to set the idle speed to 1000rpm to keep it running
    The engine has also lately lost allot of its power and "perkiness", and is rougher over the whole rev range. I'm thinking it might be a lean mixture, but i dont have any means to tell. Any ideas?
    Thanks,
    Jason Judd
    <img border="0" alt="[Peugeot Emblem]" title="" src="graemlins/peugeot.gif" /> '85 505 GTi Executive
    <img border="0" alt="[Peugeot Emblem]" title="" src="graemlins/peugeot.gif" /> '88 205 GL 1.1

  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    Tamworth
    Posts
    150
    As a matter of interest, does your GTi have the check valve installed in the vacuum advance line? See the thread "505 GTi ZDJL Distributor". I removed mine the other day, and it made quite a bit of difference to the low end smoothness.

    Cheers,
    Cheers,
    Brodie

    '78 604 SL (LPG) ...........for sale ..sold
    '81 604 SL (spares) .......for sale ..sold
    '85 505 GTi ..................for sale ..sold
    '94 405 SRDT............... for sale ..sold
    '07 307 HDi hatch
    '07 307 HDi Wagon

  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    S.E Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    262
    Is that the little round capsule that sits on the side of the (terribly placed) distributor?
    Jason Judd
    <img border="0" alt="[Peugeot Emblem]" title="" src="graemlins/peugeot.gif" /> '85 505 GTi Executive
    <img border="0" alt="[Peugeot Emblem]" title="" src="graemlins/peugeot.gif" /> '88 205 GL 1.1

  4. #4
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    S.E Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    262
    BTW,

    How often should the valve clearances be checked? And what are the tell-tale signs that they are incorrect?
    And finally, how much $$$ does a new rocker cover gasket cost?
    Jason Judd
    <img border="0" alt="[Peugeot Emblem]" title="" src="graemlins/peugeot.gif" /> '85 505 GTi Executive
    <img border="0" alt="[Peugeot Emblem]" title="" src="graemlins/peugeot.gif" /> '88 205 GL 1.1

  5. #5
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    Tamworth
    Posts
    150
    Er.. no, that's the vacuum advance capsule itself. There should be a tube running from under the throttle body directly to that capsule. In some cars there is a small round plastic valve in this line. (see the thread I was talking about earlier).

    Is there such a valve fitted on yours?

    Cheers,
    Cheers,
    Brodie

    '78 604 SL (LPG) ...........for sale ..sold
    '81 604 SL (spares) .......for sale ..sold
    '85 505 GTi ..................for sale ..sold
    '94 405 SRDT............... for sale ..sold
    '07 307 HDi hatch
    '07 307 HDi Wagon

  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    S.E Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    262
    Er... Sorry. Yes it does have the vacuum delay capsule in the line. I've also found the pipe to be split at the intake manifold end. What to do???
    Jason Judd
    <img border="0" alt="[Peugeot Emblem]" title="" src="graemlins/peugeot.gif" /> '85 505 GTi Executive
    <img border="0" alt="[Peugeot Emblem]" title="" src="graemlins/peugeot.gif" /> '88 205 GL 1.1

  7. #7
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    Tamworth
    Posts
    150
    I removed mine just a little while ago and there seems to be no adverse effect. If anything, it accelerates smoother from low revs.

    You will want to clear the vacuum pickoff at the throttle body as it will almost certainly be blocked with carbon. Remove the air duct (black plastic bit) from the TB and you will see 3 small holes just in front of the butterfly valve. The middle one leads to the dizzy. Clean out the hole using a piece of wire.

    Cheers,
    Cheers,
    Brodie

    '78 604 SL (LPG) ...........for sale ..sold
    '81 604 SL (spares) .......for sale ..sold
    '85 505 GTi ..................for sale ..sold
    '94 405 SRDT............... for sale ..sold
    '07 307 HDi hatch
    '07 307 HDi Wagon

  8. #8
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    S.E Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    262
    Brodie,
    I removed the pipe, and took out the capsule. I replaced the pipe and put a direct line in, because when i took the old pipe out, it disentergrated into about 10 pieces.It also was cracked and split the whole way along.

    Ive found the car to be alot smoother @ takeoff, and i havent (yet) noticed any hesitation.
    Thanks

    [ 03 April 2002: Message edited by: Pug505exec ]</p>
    Jason Judd
    <img border="0" alt="[Peugeot Emblem]" title="" src="graemlins/peugeot.gif" /> '85 505 GTi Executive
    <img border="0" alt="[Peugeot Emblem]" title="" src="graemlins/peugeot.gif" /> '88 205 GL 1.1

  9. #9
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    Tamworth NSW
    Posts
    496
    Hi Jason,
    Just to pick up on one of your other questions "how often should the valve clearances be set"?

    The 505 GTI should do about 60,000 km between valve clearance checks. However, this may vary at an individual engine level, depending upon general engine wear, type of driving etc.

    Valves which are out of adjustment will rob the engine of performance, create undue noise (clatter), produce rough running, and may eventually cause early valve failure in the case of the settings being too tight.

    A new valve cover gasket is not expensive (they are made from a rubber material), and is a small cost overall compared to the benefit of having correctly set valves.

    Depending upon the history of your engine, there may even be peace of mind to be derived from re-torquing the head prior to re-setting the valves. This needs to be done carefully, given that on some engines the head bolt threads will have dried out significantly, causing thread binding, and thus incorrect torque values.

    Re the throttle body, just to add to Brodie's comments, use a pressure can of Carburettor cleaner to clean all of the throttle body internal passages, as another of the vacuum holes controls the functioning of the EGR valve. The engine generally requires good, air (vacuum) tight hose fittings all round to enable the air flow sensor to control the fuel flow accurately.

    Cheers,
    Kim

  10. #10
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    S.E Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    262
    Thanks kim
    I think it's been a while since the valves have been done (about 55,000kms), so i will reset them.
    On your note about the EGR valve, it function correctly, but makes a very audible rattling sound at idle, but once it opens fully it is queit. Can it be easily replaced?

    Ta,
    Jason Judd
    <img border="0" alt="[Peugeot Emblem]" title="" src="graemlins/peugeot.gif" /> '85 505 GTi Executive
    <img border="0" alt="[Peugeot Emblem]" title="" src="graemlins/peugeot.gif" /> '88 205 GL 1.1

  11. #11
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    Tamworth NSW
    Posts
    496
    Jason,
    The valve should not rattle at all, as there is a spring maintaining tension on the diaphragm, holding the valve in the closed position.

    The normal vacuum feed to the EGR is via a coolant temperature controlled sensor. I would try removing the vacuum line to see if that influences the EGR valve, and or the rattling sound.

    The valve is easily replaced if necessary, but depending on cost, a second hand valve, once checked, might be the best solution.

    Did the throttle body cleaning correct your idling problem?

    Cheers,
    Kim.

  12. #12
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    S.E Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    262
    Kim,
    Cleaning the throttle body has not really made a difference to the idling. Putting a new, direct line to the dist has made it smoother at takeoff, but has done little for the idling.

    Now during idling in neutral, the revs rise and fall continously between 1,100 RPM and 900 RPM. When i decrease the idling speed to 900 RPM, it runs smoothly. But when i rev the engine and let it fall back to idle, the engine revs drop considerably, and it usually stalls. Anymore ideas? :p
    Jason Judd
    <img border="0" alt="[Peugeot Emblem]" title="" src="graemlins/peugeot.gif" /> '85 505 GTi Executive
    <img border="0" alt="[Peugeot Emblem]" title="" src="graemlins/peugeot.gif" /> '88 205 GL 1.1

  13. #13
    1000+ Posts Rod Hagen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    1,640
    Jason, it might be worth reinstalling the vacuum delay capsule now that you have a good vacuum line. Its absence may be directly implicated in your current problem.

    Other things that need to be checked are ignition timing, blockages or other problems in the emission control system lines, wear in the distributor advance mechanism. Also, if one vacuum line was cracked, then check the other too. leaky or loose vacuum lines can cause a host of problems at idle.

    Cheers

    Rod
    Rod's Home Page

    Rod's car page

    Peugeot 4008 2016Peugeot 407 SV HDi estate 2008, Peugeot 407 SV Hdi Sedan 2006, (deadish), - Previously 403s, 404, 504, 505 sLI Wagons, 406 ST 1997, 307 XSE, 306 XSi, Renault 12, Citroen DSpecial

  14. #14
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    Tamworth NSW
    Posts
    496
    Jason,
    Rod basically supports my earlier comment re the requirement for sound (air tight) breather and vacuum hoses.

    I would look at all hoses, including the major vacuum connections (brake booster, vacuum accumulator etc), as well as the smaller lines. It does sound like a mixture problem to me, perhaps attributable to unstable airflow across the air flow sensor.

    Don't forget to check the operation of, and correct setting of, the the throttle switch, which controls the vacuum bleed at the idle speed adjustment, via a solenoid. This compensates for compressor load when the airconditioning is selected, and the compressor clutch engages.

    It would not be the first that I have seen where that solenoid is either stuck, sticking or simply not working. Thus, correct vacuum at idle is not maintained.

    Cheers,
    Kim.

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •